I have an upgrade question

[koz138]

i was approached by a buddy of mine and was [/IMG] asked if I ever played and own any paintball equipmenti told him ya and asked why and he told he just picked up and A-5 and 98 Custume, and asked if i would play. well needless to say it took on a life of its own. I own a Mini Mag. I'm the third owner of the gun. the last time i used it was about 6 yrs ago. Took it out of it case two weeks ago and lite up the shed up in my back yard

The problem is this gun has not seen and upgrade in probably 8 or 9 yrs. The only upgrades were gone by the first owner. he installed a Turbo expension system with a Sheridan RG-1 regulator and a Lvl 7 Bolt kits (the bolt is brass) and a Reactor high Perform. On/Off Assembly.

I am really out of the loop with all the upgrades. I'm definite on the Intelliframe double trigger. but the Lvl 10 and the X- valve i'm not sure on. I don't know how to put this but with the stock A.I.R. reg, will it be a problem for the Lvl 10. I kept reading that it was important to make sure air pressure was tune in. remember this gun has the orginal A.I.R. reg on it. Or would it bein my best interest just to step it up to the X-Valve.

Thought, Ideas, hell Prayers are greatly appriacated.

[foefumm]

Hi Koz,
Well for what it's worth I am in the same situation as you...just unpacked my Minimag and played last week...after several years.
Anyway I will be looking at the lvl10 first, rather than the X-valve, because I still use C02. And before I upgrade to the X-valve(which will not work on C02) I will buy a HPS tank. From what I have read on this board the lvl10 should work fine(with AIR/Classic valve) but needs a bit of tuning...anyone please correct me if I am wrong.
i was approached by a buddy of mine and was [/IMG] asked if I ever played and own any paintball equipmenti told him ya and asked why and he told he just picked up and A-5 and 98 Custume, and asked if i would play. well needless to say it took on a life of its own. I own a Mini Mag. I'm the third owner of the gun. the last time i used it was about 6 yrs ago. Took it out of it case two weeks ago and lite up the shed up in my back yard

The problem is this gun has not seen and upgrade in probably 8 or 9 yrs. The only upgrades were gone by the first owner. he installed a Turbo expension system with a Sheridan RG-1 regulator and a Lvl 7 Bolt kits (the bolt is brass) and a Reactor high Perform. On/Off Assembly.

I am really out of the loop with all the upgrades. I'm definite on the Intelliframe double trigger. but the Lvl 10 and the X- valve i'm not sure on. I don't know how to put this but with the stock A.I.R. reg, will it be a problem for the Lvl 10. I kept reading that it was important to make sure air pressure was tune in. remember this gun has the orginal A.I.R. reg on it. Or would it bein my best interest just to step it up to the X-Valve.

Thought, Ideas, hell Prayers are greatly appriacated.

[Ruler_Mark]

the only reasons why you would need a xvalve over a classic are:
Weight, xvalve is lighter
Speed, xvalve has a faster recharge Requires HPA no CO2
Trigger pull, xvalve is lighter
RT effect, xvalve can do it

[koz138]

Hi Koz,
Well for what it's worth I am in the same situation as you...just unpacked my Minimag and played last week...after several years.
Anyway I will be looking at the lvl10 first, rather than the X-valve, because I still use C02. And before I upgrade to the X-valve(which will not work on C02) I will buy a HPS tank. From what I have read on this board the lvl10 should work fine(with AIR/Classic valve) but needs a bit of tuning...anyone please correct me if I am wrong.


I didn't even thnk about the HPA. that is good to know. If I get as much I get out this spring and summer before I decide on that. thanks

[koz138]

the only reasons why you would need a xvalve over a classic are:
Weight, xvalve is lighter
Speed, xvalve has a faster recharge Requires HPA no CO2
Trigger pull, xvalve is lighter
RT effect, xvalve can do it


dumb question can the co2 bottles take the HPA or are you stuck buy the carbon filber?

[koz138]

the only reasons why you would need a xvalve over a classic are:
Weight, xvalve is lighter
Speed, xvalve has a faster recharge Requires HPA no CO2
Trigger pull, xvalve is lighter
RT effect, xvalve can do it


who makes a good barrel. I see Smart Part and DYE are mentined alot.

[Ruler_Mark]

CO2 will explode if filled to a high pressure of air.

Barrel quality all depend son how much $$ you can budget for it

[foefumm]

As far as I know, the C02 tanks do not take HPA. But you are not stuck to buying carbon fiber HPA tanks...there are metal tanks available for a lower price than CF, if you do not mind the extra weight.

[garbageman705]

CO2 regulates itself at around 800 or so PSI. CO2 tanks are made to hold about 3000 psi before they burst.

HPA tanks hold 3000/4500/5000 psi then a regulator lowers the pressure down to a usable pressure. usually around 400-800 psi.

So, you can put air in a CO2 tank, just don't put more than 1500 psi in it to be on the safe side. As well, since the CO2 tank has no regulator, you need one on the gun otherwise you would blow a valve or shoot really hot.

If you put air in a CO2 tank I am not responsible if you kill yourself.

[koz138]

CO2 will explode if filled to a high pressure of air.

Barrel quality all depend son how much $$ you can budget for it



I've seen kits for 100+ and a single barrel for 30+. I don't mine spending the money. I thnk 2 or 3 good barrels wouldn't be a bad idea just for the fact if a ball breaks i can quickly change and not have to worry about cleaning it right there in te field

[foefumm]

Koz, here are some helpful tips I got from the AO community regarding air tanks...hope that helps. http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=223680

[koz138]

Koz, here are some helpful tips I got from the AO community regarding air tanks...hope that helps. http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=223680



thanks

[Ruler_Mark]

if you need help on picking a barrel, use this as some help:
Mann's barrel test
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2218018

[foefumm]

Thanks for that link Ruler_Mark :cheers: ...I was wondering about the barrel stuff as well.
if you need help on picking a barrel, use this as some help:
Mann's barrel test
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2218018

[koz138]

CO2 regulates itself at around 800 or so PSI. CO2 tanks are made to hold about 3000 psi before they burst.

HPA tanks hold 3000/4500/5000 psi then a regulator lowers the pressure down to a usable pressure. usually around 400-800 psi.

So, you can put air in a CO2 tank, just don't put more than 1500 psi in it to be on the safe side. As well, since the CO2 tank has no regulator, you need one on the gun otherwise you would blow a valve or shoot really hot.

If you put air in a CO2 tank I am not responsible if you kill yourself.



it will be a lesson learned

[cpt]

Went throuh the same route a couple of years ago. I've had about 10 mags so I know a little bit about them. If you need to run co2, use a remote. The steel tanks are 3000 psi and a mag is an air hog, so you are filling up a lot. Spend the bucks if you are getting one and get at least a 68/45. If you look on ebad you can probably find packages with air/xvalve on a marker with intella frame for what you would buy a xvalve and tank for. My experience is an intelliframe will give you an increase rof and an xboard revvy which you can get for $25 will keep up with it. The level X in a classic can be a little tempermental. Either way, any mag valve will keep up with your fingers. I ran a classic with a revvy and intelli and never had a problem. Honestly, the old crown point with the chrome tip were about the best barrel I ever shot, then a J&J and a lapco.
Bottom line, if you are going to play and want to keep the mini get a revvy to eliminate any chance of chopping and and frame if you want to pick up your rate of fire. It's going to cost you $125+ to get in the HPA game so you need to decide that.

[koz138]

Went throuh the same route a couple of years ago. I've had about 10 mags so I know a little bit about them. If you need to run co2, use a remote. The steel tanks are 3000 psi and a mag is an air hog, so you are filling up a lot. Spend the bucks if you are getting one and get at least a 68/45. If you look on ebad you can probably find packages with air/xvalve on a marker with intella frame for what you would buy a xvalve and tank for. My experience is an intelliframe will give you an increase rof and an xboard revvy which you can get for $25 will keep up with it. The level X in a classic can be a little tempermental. Either way, any mag valve will keep up with your fingers. I ran a classic with a revvy and intelli and never had a problem. Honestly, the old crown point with the chrome tip were about the best barrel I ever shot, then a J&J and a lapco.
Bottom line, if you are going to play and want to keep the mini get a revvy to eliminate any chance of chopping and and frame if you want to pick up your rate of fire. It's going to cost you $125+ to get in the HPA game so you need to decide that.



yeah like I said berfore, if i play an S-load thi s spring and summer i'll pick up a HPA tank or 2 and te X-valve in the fall. For right now I'll pick up the Intel-frame and Lvl 10 bolt kit. by a Rev hopper and wire that into the triggerand go from there.

thanks for the info.

[ultralight]

well, it looks like you've got it pretty well figured out, but i'd say that the LVL 10 bolt is THE best upgrade for the mag PERIOD. it doesn't take much to get it tuned, and once it is you will love it.

[koz138]

well, it looks like you've got it pretty well figured out, but i'd say that the LVL 10 bolt is THE best upgrade for the mag PERIOD. it doesn't take much to get it tuned, and once it is you will love it.


i'm going to go with the Lvl 10. but the thing next is finding a barrel. I'm not worry about what brand to buy, that will be trail and error. the issue is that my gun was purchased in 1996. all the barrels i keep seeing are the threaded type. not the twist-lock type that they were using in 96'. do they make an adapter for these barrles or will I also need to purchase a mainbody also. I can't get ahold of tech support at AGD by phone. that my next objective.

[trevorjk]

to be honest, although hooking the hopper up to the trigger frame is a nice idea, it really is not needed. a good xboard revy, or the new empire loaders, have both fed plenty fast as they are. so unless you WANT to, it is not needed.

as for barrels, a good J&J or Lapco 1 piece barrel will be a good barrel and should be found for under $50 bucks. one thing to look for is make sure you get the right type of barrel for your minimag, hopper left or hopper right or centerfeed. another thing to note is that online you can probably find the old style automag barrels clearanced on some websites. and can be picked up relatively cheap used.

as for the level 10, it is a GREAT upgrade, it virtually eliminates chopping of paintballs when installed correctly. but just so you know, i would go into a local paintball shop that knows what they are doing, and use one of there air tanks or have them install it. you will need a tank or 2 of air.

and if you do decide to upgrade to a X-valve later on, might i suggest to just save up another $250ish and get a hole new RT-Pro. reason being is, by just geting a new x-valve that comes with LX. your old bolt and LX will just sit and collect dust. and a nice thing about getting a hole new gun is because you then have your old reliable backup gun that you built previously.

and another side note, once your hooked, might as well open your wallet or lock it away... theres no turning back :p

[koz138]

to be honest, although hooking the hopper up to the trigger frame is a nice idea, it really is not needed. a good xboard revy, or the new empire loaders, have both fed plenty fast as they are. so unless you WANT to, it is not needed.

as for barrels, a good J&J or Lapco 1 piece barrel will be a good barrel and should be found for under $50 bucks. one thing to look for is make sure you get the right type of barrel for your minimag, hopper left or hopper right or centerfeed. another thing to note is that online you can probably find the old style automag barrels clearanced on some websites. and can be picked up relatively cheap used.

as for the level 10, it is a GREAT upgrade, it virtually eliminates chopping of paintballs when installed correctly. but just so you know, i would go into a local paintball shop that knows what they are doing, and use one of there air tanks or have them install it. you will need a tank or 2 of air.

and if you do decide to upgrade to a X-valve later on, might i suggest to just save up another $250ish and get a hole new RT-Pro. reason being is, by just geting a new x-valve that comes with LX. your old bolt and LX will just sit and collect dust. and a nice thing about getting a hole new gun is because you then have your old reliable backup gun that you built previously.

and another side note, once your hooked, might as well open your wallet or lock it away... theres no turning back :p


another sport to bump money into :dance: well what about changing the main body. like you said i've been looking for used or the old discontinued barrels, but haven't been lucky on finding one yet. do they make an adapter though for the the updated thread type?

[punkncat]

CO2 regulates itself at around 800 or so PSI. CO2 tanks are made to hold about 3000 psi before they burst.

HPA tanks hold 3000/4500/5000 psi then a regulator lowers the pressure down to a usable pressure. usually around 400-800 psi.

So, you can put air in a CO2 tank, just don't put more than 1500 psi in it to be on the safe side. As well, since the CO2 tank has no regulator, you need one on the gun otherwise you would blow a valve or shoot really hot.

If you put air in a CO2 tank I am not responsible if you kill yourself.


DO NOT take this advice. NEVER put HPA in a CO2 bottle.

CO2 is measured by volume and the bottle is designed to hold it as such. CO2 has varying pressure according to temperature and the burst disks for the bottle is designed to go off at 1500?PSI IIRC. Its been a minute.
HPA bottles are designed to hold pressure at a set volume... Thats why you see bottles marked as 3000/48, 4500/68, etc.
The first number is the pressure rating and the second is vomume in cubic inches.
Most bottles are preset and regulate the outcoming pressure at 450 or commonly right at 800 PSI. CO2 bottles do not have a regulator and pressure can vary a great deal.
Trying to fill a CO2 bottle with HPA will more than likely result in the loss of a burst disk which will scare the hell out of you. In addition at the roughly 1500PSI mark you will get very few shots from it. In addition to that the danger that you will blow out something else from unregulated 1500 PSI is high, especially if you are using commonplace macroline. That type of pressure blowing out a small line like that will tear into you much like a dull knife and could kill you.

I really hate to see people passing on uninformed information like that. Its really stupid thing to do. If you are ever in doubt, use the computer sitting right in front of you and do some research.

[koz138]

DO NOT take this advice. NEVER put HPA in a CO2 bottle.

CO2 is measured by volume and the bottle is designed to hold it as such. CO2 has varying pressure according to temperature and the burst disks for the bottle is designed to go off at 1500?PSI IIRC. Its been a minute.
HPA bottles are designed to hold pressure at a set volume... Thats why you see bottles marked as 3000/48, 4500/68, etc.
The first number is the pressure rating and the second is vomume in cubic inches.
Most bottles are preset and regulate the outcoming pressure at 450 or commonly right at 800 PSI. CO2 bottles do not have a regulator and pressure can vary a great deal.
Trying to fill a CO2 bottle with HPA will more than likely result in the loss of a burst disk which will scare the hell out of you. In addition at the roughly 1500PSI mark you will get very few shots from it. In addition to that the danger that you will blow out something else from unregulated 1500 PSI is high, especially if you are using commonplace macroline. That type of pressure blowing out a small line like that will tear into you much like a dull knife and could kill you.

I really hate to see people passing on uninformed information like that. Its really stupid thing to do. If you are ever in doubt, use the computer sitting right in front of you and do some research.


I was never going to do that anyways. thanks for your concern

[Ruler_Mark]

another sport to bump money into :dance: well what about changing the main body. like you said i've been looking for used or the old discontinued barrels, but haven't been lucky on finding one yet. do they make an adapter though for the the updated thread type?

if you get a ule body or most aftermarket mag bodies they are cocker barrel threaded and then your options are endless.

[punkncat]

I was never going to do that anyways. thanks for your concern

You are welcome. I would hate to hear of you getting hurt. This site has traditionally been known for having good information, and I didn't want you thinking this was some of it.

Good luck with your mag.

[MoeMag]

You are welcome. I would hate to hear of you getting hurt. This site has traditionally been known for having good information, and I didn't want you thinking this was some of it.

Good luck with your mag.

BWAHAHAHA!!!
That post made my day. :rofl: