I think I just snagged a good deal

[phatty123]

I just picked up what looks to be a lightly modifide 2002 rf cocker ( witch I have been looking for a rf cocker for awhile) It has a hinge frame and looks great. It comes with the stock barrel and 2 barrel kits, jersey, jt mask and revolution hopper. For 81 dollars shipped.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a281/phatty123/SS851662.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a281/phatty123/SS851665.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a281/phatty123/SS851664.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a281/phatty123/SS851661.jpg

-barry

[t0nnn]

nice that's a pretty good deal...I picked up a $75 superbolt cocker and got non-working and at this point a non-fixable gun :cuss: ...hopefully it will be as good as the deal sounds

[garbageman705]

Why can't you fix it?

[punkncat]

Why can't you fix it?


Yeah, what he said.....

[BigEvil]

nice that's a pretty good deal...I picked up a $75 superbolt cocker and got non-working and at this point a non-fixable gun :cuss: ...hopefully it will be as good as the deal sounds


I had one like that too. :mad:

[t0nnn]

The body tolerance is HORRIBLE! A stock valve will not fit into place, I can't get it to seal correctly after a shot. We've tried a lot and i'm about ready to call it quits, eat the $75 and look for a new mini cocker body

[russc]

Yep, those Psychoballistics bodies are horrible. I won't bother with one again. The Suberbolt looked nice, and it was an easy halfblock mod but I experienced the same valve area tolerance issues.

[punkncat]

The body tolerance is HORRIBLE! A stock valve will not fit into place, I can't get it to seal correctly after a shot. We've tried a lot and i'm about ready to call it quits, eat the $75 and look for a new mini cocker body

Is it a problem with the cup seal not resetting, or is it the actual valve oring? Something you can try as a redneck repair is to use some silicone RTV and see if that will seal it up.


I know those psycho cockers were horrible from the getgo. They sold new for right at $100 and that was before cockers had hit real rock bottom where they are now.

[t0nnn]

totally hi-jacked this kids thread lol...

The valve isn't resetting properly, after every shot i'll get the constant internal leak. All I have to do is tap the cocking rod back and the valve seals. I'm gonna mess with it more tomorrow, it was suggested to try and up in the input pressure which is at 300 right now, switch to a maddman light main spring, or cut the main spring shorter. I'm using a heavy maddman valve spring and a medium maddman main spring

[ProblemKinder]

totally hi-jacked this kids thread lol...

The valve isn't resetting properly, after every shot i'll get the constant internal leak. All I have to do is tap the cocking rod back and the valve seals. I'm gonna mess with it more tomorrow, it was suggested to try and up in the input pressure which is at 300 right now, switch to a maddman light main spring, or cut the main spring shorter. I'm using a heavy maddman valve spring and a medium maddman main spring

without a picture, he has no thread :D

[BigDaddyJob]

Not sure if they are identical, but I had the Psycoballistics Lightning with the same problem... But I dropped this in there and it worked just fine. EVIL Autococker Valve (http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-EVIL-AUTOCOCKER-PAINTBALL-GUN-VALVE-KIT_W0QQitemZ360022923229QQihZ023QQcategoryZ10554Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)
Im not sure how much the superbolt and the lightning are alike?

[punkncat]

totally hi-jacked this kids thread lol...

The valve isn't resetting properly, after every shot i'll get the constant internal leak. All I have to do is tap the cocking rod back and the valve seals. I'm gonna mess with it more tomorrow, it was suggested to try and up in the input pressure which is at 300 right now, switch to a maddman light main spring, or cut the main spring shorter. I'm using a heavy maddman valve spring and a medium maddman main spring

Yeah we did....sort of.

So you are saying with it cocked and ready to shoot it will fire one shot, then leak through the valve. If you tap the cocking rod, while its cocked and after that first shot, it will stop leaking?

That is odd as hell as the hammer isn't even touching the valve at that point. I am having one hell of a time thinking why that would stop it.

Rather than turning up the pressure (which actually may help), you could try a heavier valve spring, which in turn should require a heavier main spring.
Might try taking the stock valve and very lightly and evenly polishing the cup seal surface. Look at the valve seal real well to see if there is any imperfection.

I assume you have checked the valve retaining nut and screw for tightness?

That is too strange.

You say a stock valve will not fit....is it too small?

[t0nnn]

evil valve fits even worse than a stock valve. Cyberave was over one night and took some emory cloth to the face and front lip of the valve (it actually fits in right now) but I still get the same problems I had before we did this. The valve never lined up with the set screw hole, it wouldn't sit far enough up until he sanded it down some.

What i'm saying is after a shot, I think the hammer is resting on the valve stem causing the leak...i'll slightly tap on the cocking rod back and it pops into place and seals.

As far as springs, i'm already using a maddman heavy valve spring and a medium main spring

[punkncat]

Shouldn't the hammer be back and waiting for the next shot, not forward resting on the valve stem?

Is there something I am missing here?

[skyguy]

You know, I get the same problems when my input pressure is getting low, and also when I use a inline reg with low recharge rate. I've always thought that it was a combo of crappy cup seal and really small valve chamber.

[Chaos_Theory!]

Thats really not a great deal but its pretty good depending on the kits.

[t0nnn]

punkcat I should have mentioned.....it's a pump lolll :D

[punkncat]

punkcat I should have mentioned.....it's a pump lolll :D

Geez man......ok, so if you pump the marker then it will stop leaking right?

A lot of times on a cocker (or an LP JABB for that matter) when the hammer is forward it will cause a leak, especially when running low pressure and sprung for it.
Consider that the moment it fires the pneumatics (on a semi) return the backblock and cock it again for the next shot. The hammer will not be resting on the valve stem for longer than a few milliseconds and you don't hear that leak.

If you are not pumping it right away, which I wouldn't know why....you will either have to increase the pressure to compensate for the mainspring sitting on the stem, or the valve spring to balance against the main spring. This may run you into problems gaining enough dwell to actually get velocity.

[phatty123]

totally hi-jacked this kids thread lol...

The valve isn't resetting properly, after every shot i'll get the constant internal leak. All I have to do is tap the cocking rod back and the valve seals. I'm gonna mess with it more tomorrow, it was suggested to try and up in the input pressure which is at 300 right now, switch to a maddman light main spring, or cut the main spring shorter. I'm using a heavy maddman valve spring and a medium maddman main spring


Well it doesn't matter if you guys Hi jacked my thread. As for being a kid.... not so much. And for the comment after that. I didn't think I needed a pciture to make it a thread.

-barry

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h166/dubsman35/P1010200.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h166/dubsman35/P1010199.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h166/dubsman35/P1010196.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h166/dubsman35/P1010195.jpg


This are the sellers pics and dont show the hopper. I will provide my own pictures when everything arrives.

[ProblemKinder]

Well it doesn't matter if you guys Hi jacked my thread. As for being a kid.... not so much. And for the comment after that. I didn't think I needed a pciture to make it a thread.

-barry

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h166/dubsman35/P1010200.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h166/dubsman35/P1010199.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h166/dubsman35/P1010196.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h166/dubsman35/P1010195.jpg


This are the sellers pics and dont show the hopper. I will provide my own pictures when everything arrives.

now you know.

[t0nnn]

Well it doesn't matter if you guys Hi jacked my thread. As for being a kid.... not so much. And for the comment after that. I didn't think I needed a pciture to make it a thread.

-barry

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h166/dubsman35/P1010200.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h166/dubsman35/P1010199.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h166/dubsman35/P1010196.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h166/dubsman35/P1010195.jpg


This are the sellers pics and dont show the hopper. I will provide my own pictures when everything arrives.

my bad, totally hi-jacked this mans* thread :cheers:
he's got the original hinge frame on there with the WGP logo printed on there instead of a jewel, I have that one too. Even tho it's nothing, I still feel special for buying one when the first batch came out

[Ruler_Mark]

the fade barrel kit is a 3a off of ebay, dunno on the quality but they are from china.

the other looks to be a odessy kit for when they made the mech cockers. both kits arent worth very much :mad:

[phatty123]

I understand that the barrel kits arent top notch, but for 81 dollars its not bad.

-barry

[phatty123]

updated