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View Full Version : Questions about the Tac-One



JTVoar16
02-16-2008, 03:14 AM
Hello, my name is Thomas. I am considering purchasing the Tac-One Automag but have ALOT of questions. But first some backstory:

Basically I have been playing paintball since I was 12, I'm 24 now. I started with the Brass Eagle "Blade" pump gun (still love using that POS.) Then about a year later I finally got myself a VERY used spider compact 2000. I used that gun for about 3 years until I got myself a Brass Eagle "Raptor," which I still love and adore. I have brought that thing back from the dead, many, many, MANY times. I used that guy until about two years ago when I got my first Autococker... I fell in love Immediately and that was the mechanical version. I.E. "The Ball Chopper." Anyway, long story short, I finally have a job that pays well enough that I can warrant spending thousands of dollars on paintball every year. But I have this complex that disallows me to spend recklessly. The main reason being is I play with my neighborhood kids and my long time friend. We DON'T play speed ball and we play, as we call it, "Hard Core" Woods-ball, in that we play with what ever the terrain offers us, no bunkers unless there happens to be a jeep we can dive behind. We usually take no more then 100 rounds out into the field. That kinda paintball.

So, anyway, sorry, I rant.

Continuing on; I have heard from countless people that if you are into that kind of paintball, you want to go Autococker or automag. I want to go automag because I saw the longbow "upgrade" for the tac-one and would absolutely love to use that. It would fit perfectly into our style of playing.

But then I came to the website and noticed a few things, or rather a bunch of things that put me off... at the moment and that is why I am here.

My questions are as follows:

1) Is there any way to make the mag function off CO2? We have 4 fill stations and like 20-some CO2 tanks that we use. I also live about 20 minuets from the nearest store that will fill HPA or Nitro, so I don't want to spend all this money to be able to use the gun once a session. (We usually play seven to eight games when we go play, and I usually go threw 400 some rounds by the fourth game because each player takes 100 rounds but if you kill someone you get their ammo.) So outside of buying multiple 68ci tanks and just going through them one at a time, I would just rather use CO2. Unless I can get a fill station for HPA\Nitro for "cheep" i.e. under 300$

2)What happened to the longbow... and the rest of the upgrade equipment for the tac-one\Automags? I was just one my favorite paintball website and I see nothing for AGD?

3) Is there a single trigger frame? I HATE DOUBLE TRIGGERS. Any gun I have ever bought with a double trigger I have cut off and I would rather not do that with something I pay this much money for.

4) This question ties in with question 3). What are the firing modes for the tac-one? Comparing them to Autocockers of the same price range, I would hope I have the ability to switch between single and auto (and not the dumb "auto" mode that requires you to pull the trigger four times then it will fire auto or anything like that.) Basically I am looking for a setup similar to the Kingman Spider Pilot's e-handle. It allows you to choose semi, auto, 3 round, or 6 round and it allows you to choose "rounds per second." Which is just AWESOME! Some one told me that the tac-one could be set up like an autococker with "short-cuts" to different firing modes and ROF, but I fear they may mean what I said before. "You need to pull the trigger four times real fast to make it go auto." That's great for cheating at speedball, but when you are in a ditch and you hear the opponent charging, you don't want to have to worry about hitting the trigger four times. You just want to pull that trigger and pray. I'm not asking for some sort of like computer interface. Hell if it is a certain button combination, like on Tippman triggers. That is fine, because I can mod the handle to make it easy to change the mode of fire and memorize the settings.

5) Lastly is there an "anti-ball rolls out the end of the barrel" system on the Automag? Or will I have to install one like the Autococker? This is a problem because we use low-end, Wal-Mart paint, because paying 80$ a case for 1000 round is not our style, I plan on buying some of that for "hard-core" games, but for just having fun and not caring, I'm not wasting high-end paint on that, but I still don't want to have the perfect shot and miss because my damn ball rolled out the barrel. I mean for God's sake, my 10$ Spider Compact 2000 has only ever had 1 ball roll out the barrel and my 200$ "Electronic, super fast shooting accurate super super autococker-o-awesomeness" lets balls just roll out the barrel on a frequent bases. Not to mention we have Bluffs and Ravine we play in with 300 foot inclines that I shoot down.

So ya, those are my questions at the moment. I ask all this and rant because this would be my first gun I have purchased new, and upgraded with actual retail parts. So I don't want to spend all this money on something that is, "OK." When I could spend it on more Tippmans or cheep Autocockers. But every automag I have ever shoot at BLOW ME THE FREAK AWAY with it's power and range and everything amaxing about it. And knowing what we have done with our gun we have now, I know I could mod this thing to shoot at 300+psi, not chop balls ever, and hit one inch targets at 500 feet. Because right now, our best gun is a toss up between the Tippman A-5 with custom moded Flatline and the moded E-Autococker (low end, entry level.) But I know that the Automag can blow all that out of the water. But I would like it to function the way I want it to.

In summery; I don't want to upgrade to HPA if I don't have to because of my situation and I would hope that the electronics in a 500$ would be bette then a Wal-Mart bought Spider.

Wow, OK. I'll stop ranting now. Sorry if I sound like and *** or something, but I can't help it. Thank you all in advance for any help\ advice \ Constructive criticism.

Again, Thank you for reading my rant and for you help.

MeŠiCX
02-16-2008, 07:22 AM
Your best bet would be to buy a pro classic mag from AGD and put a tac one body on it. That will give you the single trigger and a classic valve. The classic valve is needed for CO2 use.

The longbow is an upgrade from SpecOps not AGD. You'll need the original tac rail for the longbow stock.

Modes? The tac one is a mechincal marker. The only mode is semi. You can get an RT effect with the X valve and higher input pressure. The classic valve will not give you the RT effect.

The tac one body has a ball detent to prevent paintballs from rolling out of the barrel.

You can find the items you need in the B/S/T section to build your own classic mag with the tac body.

bgjkm
02-16-2008, 08:45 AM
i would suggest the pro classic automag too.

rawbutter
02-16-2008, 10:34 AM
Yeah... buy a pro-classic with Level Ten and then upgrade the body.

You'll need something to help with the CO2, though. Perhaps an expansion chamber or a Palmer's stabilizer (which is the best option by far, but also the most expensive).

Or, if you're find a longbow setup, use a remote.

custar
02-16-2008, 11:50 AM
You could buy a Tac One with the standard Xvalve and also buy a used Classic valve on this forum. There aren't very many Tac bodies available, and people jump on them aggressively. I know; I'm one of those people. The Classic valve is interchangeable in the Tac body, so you can switch out valves after you use up your HPA. Alternatively, you can sell the Xvalve to offset the purchase price of the Tac Oneb and Classic valve. A used Classic valve shouldn't run you much more than $50.00 + shipping, and you should be able to sell the Xvalve for $200.00 or more. You may be able to find a Classic valve with a L10 bolt installed for $70.00, and that would be ideal.

As far as preventing rollouts, if the detent in the Tac body doesn't work well enough for you, you can send your favorite cocker-threaded barrel to Palmer's for installation of wedgits.

custar

JTVoar16
02-16-2008, 11:39 PM
As far as preventing rollouts, if the detent in the Tac body doesn't work well enough for you, you can send your favorite cocker-threaded barrel to Palmer's for installation of wedgits.

custar

wow, I didn't know you could do that. Our current solution is drilling a hole in the barrel and adding a Spider MR-1 anti-double feed, glued into the barrel. So far that is working awesome, that only draw back is if the anti-feed ever wears out, it'll be hell to get thing out.

But yes, anyway. Thank you all for your help. I think I am going to stick with autococker for the beginning of the session, having tried an Autococker SR and falling in love with that gun too. But as the session presses on, I fully plan on buying some form of Automag, because I am not complete until I own every form of paintball gun ;) hehehe.

Truthfully the only thing that threw me was the fact that it wasn't electronic and couldn't be set up for auto, or burst fire.

But thank you guys again for the help and advice!

I haven't lost faith in the automag I just want to wait until I have played more before I have to go and change my equipment to suite one gun. Which is inevitable because HPA is far better then CO2, the only draw back or those massive, over sized "eggs." But thank god I don't care about remote systems. :)

Thanna
02-19-2008, 08:02 PM
Well.... If you want to go electronic, you could get e-mag lowers and make it into an e-tac. With x-mod installed, you can do burst and auto-fire. I had Tunaman assemble an e-tac and he did a great job. :D Had to install the xmod myself, but that was fairly straight forward.