Minimag, outdated or still worthy?

[shadowmaker]

Getting back into the paintball scene, been gone approx 10-12 yrs. I have a minimag basically stock (lvl 7), only thing I changed was the bolt. I have a compressed air tank coming next week.

I dont know all the new guns, ions, freaks, pulses, and blah blah blah blah. I m old school, when cockers and mags ruled. VM68s were awesome in a woods game. lol

What I m wondering is what, if anything, can I do to the minimag to hold my own? Seems now, its more of a spray and pray over raw skills and good aim. Last time we played, I pretty much rocked :headbang: but now some of the players are bringing guys with the new guns and Im actually intimidated. One of the guys said there were times the paintballs were almost like a straight line of continuous paintballs. When did they start making autos? GEEZ.

Or would I be better off to retire the mag and make it a back up? :( :(

[GroovYChickeN 2.o]

Well one major upgrade you can do would be to buy a x valve. You then have the option of either using the RT effect, or you can put a ULT in it to make it's trigger pull super short. I use to play with a mini-mag with an x-vale and kept up fine.

[Ninjeff]

Dont let teh new electros scare you off man. The minimag is still viable. You wont have the rate of fire they do, BUT when they are off trying to tinker, replace, fix, or shimmy batteries into thier new "god mode" markers, you'll still be rocking. I would grab a level 10 bolt, however. Maybe an intelliframe also.

But, if you do find you desire faster r.o.f.s there are tons of upgrades for mags that will allow you to do that.

[sdawg]

It's still the player not the marker. I go up against $1000 guns with my minimag without fear.

That said, a level 10 kit is worth the money.

[shadowmaker]

Sorry to sound like a noob, I feel like one but what the heck is a "X valve". RT effect and ULT? Are there pics of this stuff anywhere? Me reading it and not seeing is leaving me in the dark. As far as the level 10, do I have to send in my valve or can I do that myself? Thats roughly $85 right?And what does it do, I ve read it reduces ball breakage.

Thanks guys, I love the minimag and was beginning to think it maybe time for a replacement. Youre right, it is the player and not the gun but when you have 10 guys shooting 300 pbs at you each, its dishearting. LOL

Just so you know, I have searched but picking thru all the stuff I dont need is time consuming. Especially, with a wife and 2 kids. Thanks for taking the time to answer any questions.

[GroovYChickeN 2.o]

Sorry to sound like a noob, I feel like one but what the heck is a "X valve". RT effect and ULT? Are there pics of this stuff anywhere? Me reading it and not seeing is leaving me in the dark. As far as the level 10, do I have to send in my valve or can I do that myself? Thats roughly $85 right?And what does it do, I ve read it reduces ball breakage.

Thanks guys, I love the minimag and was beginning to think it maybe time for a replacement. Youre right, it is the player and not the gun but when you have 10 guys shooting 300 pbs at you each, its dishearting. LOL

Just so you know, I have searched but picking thru all the stuff I dont need is time consuming. Especially, with a wife and 2 kids. Thanks for taking the time to answer any questions.

No problem bud.

Here is what we mean by RT effect.

http://www.zakvetter.com/pages/paintballs/automag_info/rapidfire/how-to-rapidfire.html

Whats happening there is a HPA tank is putting out 950psi into the gun. This allows him to bounce the trigger. The higher the pressure into the valve the faster it can bounce.

The X-valve is the newest valve for mags. It's made of all aluminum reducing the weight over past valves but gives the same performance.

http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=8&categoryID=9

A ult kit is an upgrade for most valves that allows you to fine tune the trigger pull.

http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=358&categoryID=9

Some can tune the ULT to be super bouncy some have made the trigger really short like an electric marker.

Hope this helps. :cheers:

[secretweaponevan]

The LVL 10 bolt kit will completely eliminate breaks/chops when tuned correctly.

A High-pressure-output HPA system will eliminate your mag from all of the problems associated with CO2.

That is about all you NEED to get up to speed on the family budget.

Mags rocked 15 years ago, and they still do.



When you feel up to it, you can get an intelliframe and pneumag it (search "pneumag" on google and youtube) and have a rocking marker that you can still take a shower with.

[TwilightG]

When you feel up to it, you can get an intelliframe and pneumag it (search "pneumag" on google and youtube) and have a rocking marker that you can still take a shower with.

Either he's talking about the fact that you can completely submerge your marker in water and still come out firing w/o any problems or he really loves his Automag. :p


Don't let the high ROF and flashiness of the electros get to you. I had the exact same thoughts when I returned to the game last year after missing 8-9 years.
You'll hear this a bunch of times, but it REALLY does come down to the player. I actually became more aggressive as a result. A lot of the "spray and pray" players don't move around a lot.
In fact, I just recently bought a used pump marker so I can try to improve.

As far as upgrades, assuming that you're sticking with your classic valve, definitely go with an RT on/off and Intelliframe. You won't be walking the trigger or anything but you'll certainly improve your ROF with the lighter pull. You'd be surprised how fast the Classic valve really is.

Go with HPA if you can afford it. It'll just make life so much easier for you.

All the other options the guys have mentioned are worth getting but it all depends on how much you want to invest into the marker. I started with a MiniMag last March and by September there wasn't a single original part left on it.

Good luck and have fun out there! :headbang:

[secretweaponevan]

Either he's talking about the fact that you can completely submerge your marker in water and still come out firing w/o any problems or he really loves his Automag. :p


Sir. My marker's name is Charlene, Sir! :shooting:

[sdawg]

You'll become a better player with a mag or a pump marker than with a $1K agglet paint spraying electro machinegun.

[Dawg047]

The Minimag is still a great marker. As long as she is shooting straight and true, she will do you great. However, if you want:

There are 2 ways you can pick up some cheap firepower.

1)An RT Pro/ Retro valve. These have been going pretty cheap on the Misc. Paintball Items section and they will allow you to shoot really fast as stated above. They are going around $100 and are a great upgrade.

2)An electric frame. Someone just had 2 Booyah Electro frames going for $95 shipped each and that will allow to pick up some cheap firepower aswell.

I would not recommend a ULT kit for your Minimag. It has the Classic AIR Valve and it will most likely chuffle and not work properly with a ULT. Now, a ULT is fine for a RT valve but that is a different story. I would strongly recomend the RT Pro/ Retro valve. It will be the best upgrade by far and for $100 for a used one, you can not beat that.

Good luck. And it is not about how fast the marker shoots. I have an "Electronic marker" and I just one ball her all the time. I rarely go to town on someone. I always find myself in the position where I can take out 4 people with 4-5 shots. It is truely about the player. Now, I have a Mag aswell and I find no difference in the two. They both shoot straight and they are equal in my opinion. One just has the "capabilities" to shoot fast if I were tlo need it. Oh, but with money, the Mag always has the "capabilities" to shoot fast. ;)

[BiNumber3]

you won't necessarily need an rt/x-valve tho, unless u can shoot faster than 15bps without goin electro or using the rt effect. U can however get an RT on/off assembly n drop it right into your current valve, which lightens the trigger and i believe it eliminates short stroking.

That's the cheapest upgrade i can think of, without the short-stroking, u wont chop as much as before, tho ive never had chop probs either way. If you're worried about weight as well, then u might wanna get a new valve, otherwise yours will do.

Also, do get a double trigger if u dont have one, either chop up your stock grip n add a new trigger or buy a new frame, if u want higher rates of fire. otherwise a single trigger should do

[shadowmaker]

Hey thanks guys. :)

I do have a HPA tank coming next week. I m on a budget, so I went with a 47/3000, got t brand new for $52. No one around here can fill a 4500 anyways. At the moment, I have 3 20 oz C02s and 1 hpa on the way. I hope within the next few months, I can have at least 2 47/3000s.

Right now, I think my old school skill will help me out alot. There were 38 of us I think for my return to paintball, and I finished 4 th in the "every man for himself" game. Not bad for a rusty, 38 yr old man. :headbang: There was a lot of spray and pray going on, but my 1 and 2 shot kills worked great.

You guys have thrown out alot of great info and now I m understanding more about the new stuff. But if you had say $75-$90 to spend on a upgrade, what would it be?

Would you go with the lvl 10 to reduce ball chop and breakage? Or aim more for shooting faster and get a new valve? Im shooting a boa barrel and plan on staying with it. I think the trigger and intelli frame will be more on a wish list at the moment. I m the type of person who likes to mod anything, 1 mod at a time, so I can enjoy the improvment of whatever I m working on.

Once again, thanks for all the replies and help.

[BlackVCG]

Hey thanks guys. :)

I do have a HPA tank coming next week. I m on a budget, so I went with a 47/3000, got t brand new for $52. No one around here can fill a 4500 anyways. At the moment, I have 3 20 oz C02s and 1 hpa on the way. I hope within the next few months, I can have at least 2 47/3000s.

Right now, I think my old school skill will help me out alot. There were 38 of us I think for my return to paintball, and I finished 4 th in the "every man for himself" game. Not bad for a rusty, 38 yr old man. :headbang: There was a lot of spray and pray going on, but my 1 and 2 shot kills worked great.

You guys have thrown out alot of great info and now I m understanding more about the new stuff. But if you had say $75-$90 to spend on a upgrade, what would it be?

Would you go with the lvl 10 to reduce ball chop and breakage? Or aim more for shooting faster and get a new valve? Im shooting a boa barrel and plan on staying with it. I think the trigger and intelli frame will be more on a wish list at the moment. I m the type of person who likes to mod anything, 1 mod at a time, so I can enjoy the improvment of whatever I m working on.

Once again, thanks for all the replies and help.

If you go to store.airgun.com you'll find the X-Valve under the "upgrades" category. If you trade in your old valve you'll get the X-Valve for $225 and that comes standard with level 10.

I would definitely upgrade your minimag with an X-Valve and enjoy it like that for awhile and then get an intelliframe.

[dstud2000]

Personally an intelli frame or y frame I think is more than enough to keep up, but the x valve does come in handy when you do need to lay that extra bit of paint. Either way you go frame first or xvalve you will be happy.

[DanMan]

If you play in the woods, dont worry. Most people still use and do well with 8 bps semis.

[DevilMan]

75-90.... I would go with the upgrade of a Lvl 10 bolt... The setup is transferrable down the line. Right now the X valve wouldn't be your best bet because you are planning on running CO2 sometimes. X's won't run CO2 well they will... but not very well. So if you're gonna swap between HPA and CO2 I'd keep the classic valve in there.

Or if you wanted to kick up about 10-20 more dollars to the pool.. Get and RT valve that has Level 10 installed already.. Already broken in and ready to go.

RT's are a bit lighter, but not as light as the X's. And still have all the capabilities... And someone is sure to correct me... but I'm pretty sure that RT's are 100% safe to use with CO2. Could be wrong here, but don't think I am.

So with an RT valve you trim some weight, get the RT effect, get a Lvl 10 put on it and tuned right you won't chop and will be able to shoot as fast as you want.

YMMV,

DM

[TwilightG]

Only the Classic valves can handle CO2. RTPro/ReTro/E/X = HPA only.

If you're sticking w/ your BOA then you cannot get a ULE body like you mentioned earlier. The newer bodies are Autococker threaded.

The only reason why I suggested the RT on/off assembly and Intelliframe is because by lightening your trigger pull, you will shoot faster. You probably won't out-shoot the valve.

A used RT Pro/ReTro (or even EMag) valve with a level 10 bolt can be found in the $100 range. They're all pretty much the same except that the ReTro does not let you use the ULT on/off without modifications.

I know everyone says to get the Level 10 bolt, but unless you're chopping paint regularly, you don't really need it for your Classic valve. If you upgrade to an RT-style valve, definitely get one. (It's standard on the X-Valve)

Unfortunately, there really is no easy answer for which upgrade to get first. It just really all depends on your style of play and what you're going for.

Don't be afraid to browse through the B/S/T threads too. A lot of deals can be found and you'll get more for your dollar. Most of the people here are pretty honest too. Just checkout feedback before agreeing to a purchase.

[AGDRetro]

While typically I would reccommend the X-Valve (it even comes stock with the Level 10 bolt), in your case I might just suggest the Level 10 upgrade. The ULT is not typically recommended for use a Classic/Minimag Valve, it was intended for use with the X-Valve. The odds of short-stroking a Classic equipped with the ULT upgrade are supposed to be much higher than if you were using it on the Valve it was designed for...

You aren't going to get a whole lot of shots out of a 47/3000, I would highly reccommend at least a 68ci tank.

[longi]

And don't use Co2 in a Retro or X valve. Big no no!! Now get out there and kick some electro arse!!

[longi]

AGDRetro You aren't going to get a whole lot of shots out of a 47/3000, I would highly reccommend at least a 68ci tank.

68/4500 for best results (longer battles)

[longi]

So many choices :tard:

[shadowmaker]

Well, I had to go with a 3000 tank bc the place here that fills them, cant do the 4500s. Plus, I didnt have the $$$ to get one anyways. Reason I went with the 47 was bc it ll fit my pack, again came down to $$$ and having to buy another pack. For me to shoot a 1000 balls in a day is rare, so thats not a real concern for me. What can I say, I m a tighwad, so I make my shots count. :D

Yeah I ll probably stay with the boa barrel, may not be the best but I like it.

Now the level 10, will it help stop breaking the cheap, thin paintballs that some fields use? If I have a decent grade paint or some thats not messed up, breakballs isnt a big deal. But cheap paintballs is a problem. Ran into that problem when I played recently. Thought my gun was messing up, changed to a different paintball and the breaks went away. (place we get our supplies donated the paintballs for our event. It was our church playing)

If I get a used RT valve with the level 10 in it or X valve whichever one has it, will I have to tune it to my gun or will it be tuned already?

Someone mentioned the HPA putting 950 psi in the gun. The bottle I have is preset to 850 and I dont think its adjustable. Is this going to be a problem?

I think I ll wait on the intelli .

Yes I ll be playing mainly woods ball at the moment. Like I said, I dont shoot a lot of paint anyways. But I will when I need too and it d be nice to know I had the firepower when I need it. Plus, I talk alot of smack and some guys like to put a bulleyes on me. :D :ninja:

Thanks again guys. Keep the info coming if you dont mind.

[secretweaponevan]

Well, I had to go with a 3000 tank bc the place here that fills them, cant do the 4500s. Plus, I didnt have the $$$ to get one anyways. Reason I went with the 47 was bc it ll fit my pack, again came down to $$$ and having to buy another pack. For me to shoot a 1000 balls in a day is rare, so thats not a real concern for me. What can I say, I m a tighwad, so I make my shots count. :D

Yeah I ll probably stay with the boa barrel, may not be the best but I like it.
Being comfortable with your equipment is the most important thing by far. Plus, the BOA is just damn sexy. Kudos to you.


Now the level 10, will it help stop breaking the cheap, thin paintballs that some fields use? If I have a decent grade paint or some thats not messed up, breakballs isnt a big deal. But cheap paintballs is a problem. Ran into that problem when I played recently. Thought my gun was messing up, changed to a different paintball and the breaks went away. (place we get our supplies donated the paintballs for our event. It was our church playing)
Absolutely. Especially since you say you are a budget minded player (who isn't when mommy and daddy no longer buy :p ), you will learn how to fine tune your LVL 10 kit by reading the stickies and studying up. It is truly a remarkable piece of hardware.


If I get a used RT valve with the level 10 in it or X valve whichever one has it, will I have to tune it to my gun or will it be tuned already?
You will have to tune it, but it is the "zen" of the mag and I have a feeling you will really enjoy knowing the intracacies of your marker. Be sure to watch the automag video manual. It instantly makes you an expert. No joke.


Someone mentioned the HPA putting 950 psi in the gun. The bottle I have is preset to 850 and I dont think its adjustable. Is this going to be a problem?
Nope. With the RT valve family (X-valve, RT-Pro valve, Emag-valve, etc.) the higher your input pressure, the greater the Reactive Trigger (RT) effect. With a "classic" valve, the pressure enacted on the on/off pin (which determines return trigger force) is alread regulated down via the velocity adjuster so an adjustable HPA tank, while not needed for either valve (RT or classic) will have no effect on trigger response for the classic valve family.


I think I ll wait on the intelli .
Aye, LVL 10 should be your first buy. Stalk here or ebay until you can find trigger frame that meets your budget. Many, many people warn against the the double-finger Benchmark frames as their geometry is said to provide too mushy a trigger feel. Intelliframes, G-force Pneumag frames and Ultimate Mag Frames (UMF) seem to be the most popular that I've seen.


Yes I ll be playing mainly woods ball at the moment. Like I said, I dont shoot a lot of paint anyways. But I will when I need too and it d be nice to know I had the firepower when I need it. Plus, I talk alot of smack and some guys like to put a bulleyes on me. :D :ninja:

Thanks again guys. Keep the info coming if you dont mind.

You will have a ton of fun with your mag, especially when the kiddies ask "what kind of gun is that???" and you can tell them about walking uphill bothways in the snow back in the olden days to the pro-shop when you went to go buy it. :p

[divil]

[QUOTE=shadowmaker]Hey thanks guys. :)

I do have a HPA tank coming next week. I m on a budget, so I went with a 47/3000, got t brand new for $52. No one around here can fill a 4500 anyways. At the moment, I have 3 20 oz C02s and 1 hpa on the way. I hope within the next few months, I can have at least 2 47/3000s.

Right now, I think my old school skill will help me out alot. There were 38 of us I think for my return to paintball, and I finished 4 th in the "every man for himself" game. Not bad for a rusty, 38 yr old man. :headbang: There was a lot of spray and pray going on, but my 1 and 2 shot kills worked great.

You guys have thrown out alot of great info and now I m understanding more about the new stuff. But if you had say $75-$90 to spend on a upgrade, what would it be?

Would you go with the lvl 10 to reduce ball chop and breakage? Or aim more for shooting faster and get a new valve? Im shooting a boa barrel and plan on staying with it. I think the trigger and intelli frame will be more on a wish list at the moment. I m the type of person who likes to mod anything, 1 mod at a time, so I can enjoy the improvment of whatever I m working on.

Once again, thanks for all the replies and help.

If you are going to keep the minimag. I would get electric hopper if you dont have one. You can try the RT on/off http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=399&categoryID=23

[shadowmaker]

When you say electric hopper, you referring to Viewloader 2000 type? If so, I have one of those.

What does the on/off do?

[divil]

When you say electric hopper, you referring to Viewloader 2000 type? If so, I have one of those.

What does the on/off do?

Im talking about a viewloader revolution http://www.actionvillage.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/DisplayProductInformation-Start;sid=kWniZQq0hCniDE1_4aUizQB9g6vreT5oCsg=?Pro ductID=7VqsFAY7u58AAAD3G0ClA_2t or a http://www.actionvillage.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/DisplayProductInformation-Start;sid=kWniZQq0hCniDE1_4aUizQB9g6vreT5oCsg=?Pro ductID=v2XAqArbBVwAAAESFPYHiZuK.

The RT on/off lightens the trigger pull from 3 lbs to about 2lbs. Please someone speak up if Im wrong.

Then play what you have and if you feel like out gun u can always put the hopper and tank on another gun. Maybe just up grade the one you have, but it should be cheaper buying a used RT value automag.

[shadowmaker]

Thats the loader I have, except its not a revolution. I have one of the old skool electronic loaders. lol

[divil]

Thats the loader I have, except its not a revolution. I have one of the old skool electronic loaders. lol

That will work.