Emag won't fire in Emode

[Mechanic79]

(NOTE: this is a friends Emag so I have compared it to mine own working emag, all the wires and such seem intact and in place. This gun was DIRTY, I had to remove everything and clean out sand, dirt and debri.)

Emag 1.8 XMOD, Level X, Emag Valve.

Shoots fine in Mechanical but will not shoot in E or hybrid for that matter. The battery is fully charged and tested for Volts with a voltmeter. I've also tried my other battery pack just in case and with no luck.

The trigger actuation point is set up with the software (XMOD). I can shuffle through ALL programs on the board. so the board seems to be functioning properly as well as the HES since the board recognizes when the trigger is in the correct position to fire the gun.

My guess is the plunger isn't receiving any signal or I've reinstalled something improperly. I've even tried wiggling the wires while shooting to see if any loose connections could be found.

Thanks for your thoughts.

[maniacmechanic]

Plunger length , 2or 3 of the one I've had I had to fool with the plunger length ( other than the spec length) I had to make the length longer , I " think " as the solenoid gets older it looses the full pull strength , so changing the length helps , if you pull the valve out then you can move the sear around ( up & down ) mechanically changing the length & pulling the trigger to see if you can find a sweet spot where it will pull in , if this does get to work you may want to remind your self that you have a weak soleniod & may want to replace it later

[olinar]

The noid more than likely will need replacing. try adjusting the trigger magnet that links to teh h.e.s

[Mechanic79]

Thanks for the help. Still can't figure it out. I'm sending it to AGD.

[Ruler_Mark]

what was her dwell set to?

[Mechanic79]

I tried a few different settings and absolutely nothing.

Anyone think they can fix this?

[Smoothice]

well i'm sure tunaman can fix it.

Or AGD

And I know ruler mark has started accepting emag work. Although from his site it seems he does more of a tune up. Not sure if he fixes broken parts or not.

[Ruler_Mark]

I tried a few different settings and absolutely nothing.

Anyone think they can fix this?


see if you can get a resitance reading on the solenoid you noid is proablable burned.

I do do repair work but i advise you to use agd over me simply because i cannot guarrente to fix everything.

[BlackVCG]

Hey have you sent this thing away yet?

I'll take care of you... I know I've taken care of some stuff in the past for you and I'd like to take care of this gun for you.

-Stephen

[Mechanic79]

Hey have you sent this thing away yet?

I'll take care of you... I know I've taken care of some stuff in the past for you and I'd like to take care of this gun for you.

-Stephen


WOW, you ARE still around, AWESOME. YES, I will send this to you. Hit me up with your address again.



Thanks all, for your help!

[athomas]

Using a multimeter (one with peak hold function is prefered), check the voltage going to the solenoid when you fire. If you don't get a spike, then the problem is with your board. Can you get any solenoid action without the valve installed if you hold the back of the sear down with your finger?

You are registering trigger actuations? What is the dwell set to? It should be around 15 - 20. The trigger activation magnet isn't in backwards by any chance?

[Ruler_Mark]

Using a multimeter (one with peak hold function is prefered), check the voltage going to the solenoid when you fire. If you don't get a spike, then the problem is with your board. Can you get any solenoid action without the valve installed if you hold the back of the sear down with your finger?

You are registering trigger actuations? What is the dwell set to? It should be around 15 - 20. The trigger activation magnet isn't in backwards by any chance?
a dwell of 15-20? after i freshly tune a gun i can get it shooting at 7-9ms dwell, higher rof at 12-14

[athomas]

a dwell of 15-20? after i freshly tune a gun i can get it shooting at 7-9ms dwell, higher rof at 12-14It'll fire at 7 - 9ms of dwell, but you'll get wear marks on the top of the sear and the outer edge of the bolt. Plus, if there is any bolt stick or operational hesitation causing the bolt to return slower than normal, you'll add to the friction by allowing the sear to return and rub the bottom of the bolt. The bolt will take longer cycling while firing balls than when dry firing. Your finely tuned emag may experience glitches when actually being used in a game if you use a dwell that is too short. That being said, each setup is a bit different. Maybe yours will work at that value. Personally, I'd up the value just to be safe.

[Ruler_Mark]

It'll fire at 7 - 9ms of dwell, but you'll get wear marks on the top of the sear and the outer edge of the bolt. Plus, if there is any bolt stick or operational hesitation causing the bolt to return slower than normal, you'll add to the friction by allowing the sear to return and rub the bottom of the bolt. The bolt will take longer cycling while firing balls than when dry firing. Your finely tuned emag may experience glitches when actually being used in a game if you use a dwell that is too short. That being said, each setup is a bit different. Maybe yours will work at that value. Personally, I'd up the value just to be safe.

agreed, what i meant was that around 7-9ms it would shoot but thats not where i would set it. I would set it 12-14 on average.

not trying start an arguement or anything, but how can there get wear marks get on the top of the sear? the plunger is reset back by the on off and that wont reset till the bolt moves back. Just trying to understand that fully.

[Thanna]

I don't suppose the magnet's still there at the back of the trigger? I had that happen to me once.

[p8ntbal4me]

I had a problem almost like what your saying Mec.

One gun it was the solenoid.

On the other,.. it was the magnet in the trigger. It was coated with a slight amount of rust and after cleaning it,.. I rubbed the goldish coating right off.

I bought a new magnet from AGD and it worked instantly!

Did you check the polarity of the solenoid to make sure it was correct??

~ P8nt

[secretweaponevan]

not trying start an arguement or anything, but how can there get wear marks get on the top of the sear? the plunger is reset back by the on off and that wont reset till the bolt moves back. Just trying to understand that fully.

Probably because the bolt will rub against the top of the sear while the bolt returns if the dwell is set too short.

[Mechanic79]

OK, I've never been witness to this issue before.

I tried moving the solenoid by the C clip while firing the gun.
When I pull the trigger back nothing happens, but when I release the trigger the solenoid will snap down.

Is this thing wired backwards? It sorta looks suspicious the soldered leads on the board from the solenoid.

(again just for the record, this is a friends emag that I'm trying to help fix)

I can post pics of the frame tomorrow.

[p8ntbal4me]

OK, I've never been witness to this issue before.

I tried moving the solenoid by the C clip while firing the gun.
When I pull the trigger back nothing happens, but when I release the trigger the solenoid will snap down.

Is this thing wired backwards? It sorta looks suspicious the soldered leads on the board from the solenoid.

(again just for the record, this is a friends emag that I'm trying to help fix)

I can post pics of the frame tomorrow.

Question #1: Are you using XMOD?

If you are,.. check your mode of fire. Sounds like you have it in "RELS" mode.

The only other thing I can think of is your HES sensor wires are not wired correctly. If thats the case,... you need to flip them.

~ P8nt

[Ruler_Mark]

Probably because the bolt will rub against the top of the sear while the bolt returns if the dwell is set too short.

What would be forceing the sear back? there is no return on the solenoid.

[p8ntbal4me]

What would be forceing the sear back? there is no return on the solenoid.


The internal gas behind the on/off pin.

~ P8nt

[athomas]

agreed, what i meant was that around 7-9ms it would shoot but thats not where i would set it. I would set it 12-14 on average.

not trying start an arguement or anything, but how can there get wear marks get on the top of the sear? the plunger is reset back by the on off and that wont reset till the bolt moves back. Just trying to understand that fully.There is always pressure exerted on the on-off pin pushing the sear assembly back into the reset position. The only thing holding the sear away from the bottom of the bolt during the firing operation is the actuated solenoid. As soon as the power is removed from the solenoid, the on-off pin will push the sear forward. If the bolt is not back all the way, the sear will hit the bottom of the bolt lip and add additional friction to its return. This wears the sear and bolt and could cause bolt sticking issues. This isn't an issue on mechanical mags because the finger action is not fast enough to release the trigger before the bolt has cycled.

[Ruler_Mark]

There is always pressure exerted on the on-off pin pushing the sear assembly back into the reset position. The only thing holding the sear away from the bottom of the bolt during the firing operation is the actuated solenoid. As soon as the power is removed from the solenoid, the on-off pin will push the sear forward. If the bolt is not back all the way, the sear will hit the bottom of the bolt lip and add additional friction to its return. This wears the sear and bolt and could cause bolt sticking issues. This isn't an issue on mechanical mags because the finger action is not fast enough to release the trigger before the bolt has cycled.

thanks.