my first ep mag...intelliframe...lots of pics

[Hilltop Customs]

Let me first say, this is a workhorse, not a beauty pageant winner.....so dont rag on it for being a little beat up. :rofl:

This is actually the second incarnation of this EP mag. First attempt was about 4 years ago(right as the ULT came out). It used a basic stamp and a giant noid that needed 12 volt. It worked great then, but it needed an external battery. So I scrapped it....and tried the ULT instead.

But now it is back.....
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0116copy.jpg

Other side:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0115copy.jpg


Reg cover off, electrical tape is there to pinch the line against the reg. LP line goes up through the RT foregrip, and into the rail, then back into the grip....completely hidden:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0123copy.jpg


Up close of the switch.....extra hole is from my initial location, but the trigger was too soft and didnt have enough return force. Where its at now is by far the best feeling trigger ive ever used:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0122copy.jpg

Now for the money shot.....internals: :bounce:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0121copy.jpg

My 3 way adjustable trigger(pre, post, activation point) you can also see the switch a little:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0126copy.jpg
Yes, I realize thats not an AGD screw....mine is too short for the ULE body and RT rail....happened to have that one handy and I'm too cheap to pay shipping for 1 screw.


The only real external way to tell its not a normal mag:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0118copy.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0119copy.jpg

On/off switch is a membrane pad located under the H at the bottom of the grip, the eye switch is a membrane pad located under the H at the top of the grip. I'm amazed ive never seen anyone else do this because it works GREAT. Nothing has ever accidently turned it on....it takes deliberate pressure right at the corners of the grips to depress the membrane.

Eyes are coming.....probably making the eye holder/cover tomorrow if theres time.

Only tools really used were a drill press, dremel, hacksaw, file, and taps. I have access to a mill, but the dremel was much easier for all the test fitting.

Anyhow, just thought Id show off my little project.....cant wait till the it gets nicer out to use it again. I'll snap some more pics after the eyes are finished.

[Hilltop Customs]

100 views....no replies :confused:

questions? comments? :tard:

heck, make fun of it for having 5 different shades of black for all I care :p


If anyones wondering it has a Universal T board and the tiny soleniod from ASP.

[Ruler_Mark]

I built a i frame'd ep mag setup past nov, they make great sleepers.

[Zone Drifter]

To be honest, it looks like you threw it together after looking through a graveyard of paintball guns. But... thats the cool part! You can totally throw people off when they look at it, because they'll think it's a piece of junk until you rip with it. And no, I wouldn't recommend ano, lol. It think it'll do quite well just how it is. Great work man, a true tinkerer. Who gives a rats azz how it looks, as long as it does what you want it to do!

[txaggie08]

I dont thing it looks thrown together at all, just not polished up on anno yet.


Care to share some pictures wiht the class of how you routed that airline?

[tebo]

looks very nice I bet it rips.

[Hilltop Customs]

To be honest, it looks like you threw it together after looking through a graveyard of paintball guns. But... thats the cool part! You can totally throw people off when they look at it, because they'll think it's a piece of junk until you rip with it. And no, I wouldn't recommend ano, lol. It think it'll do quite well just how it is. Great work man, a true tinkerer. Who gives a rats azz how it looks, as long as it does what you want it to do!

LOL....bet you would never guess that it started off as a standard feed classic about 10 years ago. I'll have to admit, the RT rail and foregrip did come from a friends junk bin, but everything else was purchased from AGD new. :) I think the rail and foregrip are the parts that make it look bad...other than that I dont think its that horrible. Theres some kind of epoxy on the foregrip, nothing will take it off.

after thinking how much money is sunk into this thing....just dont make fun of it too much :( lol


txaggie08: i'll get some pics good pics of the airline when the eyes come in....hopefully tomorrow.

[Hilltop Customs]

looks very nice I bet it rips.

thanks! Ive always loved the way the RT pro looks and wanted to keep it as stock looking as possible.

[halB]

What noid did you use?

[dyeforever]

thats looks like a mean sleeper. i like how you mounted the led. im planning on doing the same on my ep frame. when you dont have eyes hooked up does the board default to capped semi or uncapped?

[Hilltop Customs]

What noid did you use?
noid (http://www.airsoldier.com:8080/cgi-bin/mivavm?Merchant2/merchant.mvc+Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AOS&Product_Code=SMC-S070C-SDG-32&Category_Code=SOLENOIDS)
universal t board (http://www.scenariodreams.com/productpages/universaltboard.htm)


When you dont have eyes hooked up it is the same as having the eyes blocked all the time. All the modes work just like you have eyes(except of course it cant see if the balls in the chamber) from the manual:
-Red - NPPL Semi
-Green - Reactive Trigger
-Blue - 3 Round Burst
-White - Full Auto
-Red - CFOA (capped semi)
-Purple - Nitro
-Yellow - PSP Ramping
-Teal - NXL Auto
are all the different modes. Dont know if the NPPL is uncapped or not though

[Hilltop Customs]

if your mounting the LED like mine, you might want to do it just a little higher than mine. Sometimes my hand doesnt fully cover it when im shooting.....and that little sucker is bright, espically when its flashing.

[WickedKlown2]

Hilltop,

That is one great sleeper mag you got there... I know you said don't rag you about it, but for the front frame screw you can go down to your local Home Depot and pick up a Button Cap 10/32 screw in any length... I had to replace the one in my Micromag (had a regular allen head) and my Tac One (stripped allen head) and picked a button head screw there... it costs $ .75 and you get 2 screws (stainless no less)...

Once again Sweet Mag !!! :headbang:

[Hilltop Customs]

Hilltop,

That is one great sleeper mag you got there... I know you said don't rag you about it, but for the front frame screw you can go down to your local Home Depot and pick up a Button Cap 10/32 screw in any length... I had to replace the one in my Micromag (had a phillips head) and my Tac One (stripped allen head) and picked a button head screw there... it costs $ .75 and you get 2 screws (stainless no less)...

Once again Sweet Mag !!! :headbang:

doh.....IDK if I will replace it though. I use the trigger adjustment allen key to remove it not a screw driver. Honestly its just as easy to install/remove as a regular one.

thanks for the complement and pointing out a local screw source! Maybe if I happen to be in the lowes/home depot hardware section I'll pick one up. Till then....ghetto straight blade screw all the way :headbang: :headbang: I think it adds character :rofl:

[WickedKlown2]

Hilltop,

No Problem... Just one thing,,, I went to Lowes first and they didn't have what I was looking for and ended up across the street at Home Depot and couldn't believe the hidden treasure chest of button head screws...

You are right on keeping the Ghetto Screw... Keep it sleeper and beater all the way !!! Light some haters up at your next match and have a blast doing it while laughing the whole time to yourself!!! :headbang: :dance: :cheers: :hail:

[Hgblues]

ok, here's a few questions, cause i'm using a intelli frame also, and plan on using the T board and the same noid. Just chopped my intelli up yesterday to make the room, now i gotta get the board and noid, and i'm ready to go.

a. Is the rof adjustable on the T board to 13.3, even with no eyes? (i'm not using eyes, gonna try to just use the level X, I will be psp ramping most of the time though, so hope the level 10 works ok with that)
b. did you drill the hole for the trigger switch thru the trigger guard to get the angle like some of the other pneu guides show?
c. pull that tape off and lets have a looksy !!
d. the on/off membrane is just pinned inbetween the grip and gripframe ?

I'm ready to get my project done. I played a tourney saturday and had to shoot my alias WITHOUT MY WARPFEED! :wow: My ep mag is gonna be a red ULE left warp body :dance:

OH, AND WHILE I'M AT IT....I was planning on mounting my lpr (ans jackhammer II atm) to the other side of my asa, and running the hose and the warpfeed wire up thru the bottom of the intilli frame . Does anyone see a problem where that would be a bad idea, or just wont work?

[Hilltop Customs]

ok, here's a few questions, cause i'm using a intelli frame also, and plan on using the T board and the same noid. Just chopped my intelli up yesterday to make the room, now i gotta get the board and noid, and i'm ready to go.

a. Is the rof adjustable on the T board to 13.3, even with no eyes? (i'm not using eyes, gonna try to just use the level X, I will be psp ramping most of the time though, so hope the level 10 works ok with that)
b. did you drill the hole for the trigger switch thru the trigger guard to get the angle like some of the other pneu guides show?
c. pull that tape off and lets have a looksy !!
d. the on/off membrane is just pinned inbetween the grip and gripframe ?

I'm ready to get my project done. I played a tourney saturday and had to shoot my alias WITHOUT MY WARPFEED! :wow: My ep mag is gonna be a red ULE left warp body :dance:

OH, AND WHILE I'M AT IT....I was planning on mounting my lpr (ans jackhammer II atm) to the other side of my asa, and running the hose and the warpfeed wire up thru the bottom of the intilli frame . Does anyone see a problem where that would be a bad idea, or just wont work?

a. utb manual (http://scenariodreams.com/manuals/universal_manual.htm) I believe with no eyes it should be the same as with eyes(just the board will act like a ball is always in the breach)
b. my switch is located right behind the trigger. If you look at the close up shot of the saftey you can see it there. You will have to widen this area to fit the switch, and also cut the back "nub" off your trigger. This is simply the ONLY place to mount the switch in the intelli that ive found.
c. in a minute i'll pull the internals out and show it all :p
d. yep, just stuck to the grip frame right under the corner of the grip. It wont work for a normal one though, I cut 2 of them up(i had a few) so one is a power switch and one is the eye switch, and they can be located away from each other

I wont lie it is tight in there....I even had to grind down the actuating arm of my sear so the noid could fit nice and tight to the ram(not much...probably 3/16, but its no good for going back to mechnical, i bought one specifically for this just in case I feel like going back).

You shouldnt have any problem with your LP hose/wire route, just dont pinch them.

WickedKlown2....doh again, no Home Depots close to me....looks like i'm stuck with the sexy ghetto screw

[Hilltop Customs]

Well heres some more pics hopefully you guys can get a better idea of whats going on:
Airline route:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0141copy.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0142copy.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0143copy.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0145copy.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0147copy.jpg

In the last picture you can make out the switch placement too. The electrical tape on the sides of the ram actually holds the noid tight against it underneth....its not there to hold the ram in any way.

Membrane simple, yet so effective:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0148copy.jpg

Internals; It is basically a noid sandwich with the ram and the board being the bread:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0149copy.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0150copy.jpg


If your using an intelliframe you must get the ram flush with the top of the frame.....if you dont, your probably going to run out of space.

LMK if you want any more pics....I'll keep it apart till I get they eyes installed.

[Hgblues]

you shaved the back of the trigger off to make room, could the back of the trigger actually be used to engage the switch instead of the middle adjustment bolt? Or ya think the tolerance would be too close to get it just right? or possiblly not be enough room to place the ram correctly? Great thread btw, just what I was lookin for to clear up ideas I had before I finished mine up.

[Hilltop Customs]

you shaved the back of the trigger off to make room, could the back of the trigger actually be used to engage the switch instead of the middle adjustment bolt? Or ya think the tolerance would be too close to get it just right? or possiblly not be enough room to place the ram correctly? Great thread btw, just what I was lookin for to clear up ideas I had before I finished mine up.

ehhhh, the first time I did it I used the back of the trigger like you said. If you choose to do that way you have to bend the switch lever to get it to activate at the right point.....to bend the lever you have to take the switch in and out a bunch of times to get it right.

Either way your going to have to cut it down some....because if you dont the back of the switch will be where the ram needs to go.

Overall I found it much easier to chop the back of the trigger off and add another setscrew. Plus you have the added benifit of being able to easily adjust it whever and whenever you want without taking anything apart.

[Hgblues]

ahh, gotcha, the full adjustability of the trigger angle would be nice...

I was thinking of using the lighter switch, but seeing as I'll be using ramp mostly , i donno if the lever switch maybe enough.

[Hilltop Customs]

Just make sure the switches are the same size and shape....you should be able to switch one out for the other if you want to.


I just used the stock switch I recieved with the T board....i think its 50g(not sure though). If you go with a lighter switch you might have to use a magnet return.


dont forget the closer to the pivot point you put the switch....the lighter it will feel. (within reason...ie dont put it on the pivot and expect it to work that well)

[halB]

One more question: What ram did you use?

Very very nice project. Let me ask you, have you shot a mag that had a normal electric frame? One of those sear tripper frames like the hyperframes? How does your mags EP compare to the tripper?


Oops, need another question: How much does the total rig weigh?

[Hilltop Customs]

i used the standard ram for pneumags....the mpa3. just used a cut down bolt for the actuating pin

I havent shot the sear tripper frames....but my trigger is about the same as my ion with a t-board in it. It is MUCH lighter than my stock bushmaster.


Weight.....my LPR didnt add any weight because I cut off the foregrip for it. So only added weight would be the 9 volt and electronics, but I took a lot of material out of the frame....so its probably the same weight as a RT pro.

Once the eyes are installed; if i remember, I'll get a final weight.

[Hilltop Customs]

I forgot to include a few pics last night:

This is how the noid sandwich fits in the gun:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0151copy.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0153copy.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0154copy.jpg

(the kink in the line wasnt there be4, I think once its pressurized it wont matter, but I'll be fixing it anyhow)

And a pic just to show how short the airline is between the noid and ram

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0155copy.jpg

[Hgblues]

well, It has finally begun. I finished up my dremel work on the frame today (sheesh, hope i'm finished anyway), got my trigger switch wedged in nice and snug where it's gonna sit. Man, when you said it was a tight fit to get all this in a intelli frame, you were'nt kiddin!! So, here's what i'm guessin gonna be my next steps. Gonna put a set screw in to hold the trigger switch in place (did you only use 1 set screw for the trigger switch?), gotta put 2 stop screws in the trigger, get my noid, board, and ram all snugged together and hooked up( gotta ton of access wire it looks like), and probly drill out the hole in the bottom of my grip a bit to make room for my lpr hose and my warp feed wire.

Now, you mentioned you had to cut some of your sear off? How much did you cut off? I can see why you would have to, as tight as the switch and ram are wedged in.

Gonna be a red ULE, level X , warp left, X valved, intelli grip , setup. I cant wait to show the pics!

[insixdays777]

Nice sleeper job! man that noid is TINY! find a better (your is good, dont get me wrong)way to hide that goofy vert LP hose and this thing will be PERFECT! GREAT JOB!!!

[Hilltop Customs]

well, It has finally begun. I finished up my dremel work on the frame today (sheesh, hope i'm finished anyway), got my trigger switch wedged in nice and snug where it's gonna sit. Man, when you said it was a tight fit to get all this in a intelli frame, you were'nt kiddin!! So, here's what i'm guessin gonna be my next steps. Gonna put a set screw in to hold the trigger switch in place (did you only use 1 set screw for the trigger switch? yes, my switch is pinched between the bottom of the hole for the trigger rod and the one screw, so it cant move, but 2 set screws will work the same. ), gotta put 2 stop screws in the trigger, get my noid, board, and ram all snugged together and hooked up( gotta ton of access wire it looks like), and probly drill out the hole in the bottom of my grip a bit to make room for my lpr hose and my warp feed wire.

Now, you mentioned you had to cut some of your sear off? How much did you cut off? I can see why you would have to, as tight as the switch and ram are wedged in. it may not be required, it really depends on how everything is fitting together, but I ground the sear down slightly past the hole where the clevis attaches. My ram was hitting well above the portion I cut off so really it is not needed.

Gonna be a red ULE, level X , warp left, X valved, intelli grip , setup. I cant wait to show the pics!

cant wait for the pics! oh and one other thing, be careful when you tighten your grip screws, the way mine is setup the go right against the noid, but I shortened them so they tighten up on the frame be4 they pinch the noid.(you can see the impression of the screw in the tape in a couple of the pictures from test fitting)



Nice sleeper job! man that noid is TINY! find a better (your is good, dont get me wrong)way to hide that goofy vert LP hose and this thing will be PERFECT! GREAT JOB!!!

what do you mean? its not even visible when the cover is on the reg. Anyway I got a new micro rock and put on there, now the reg doesnt protrude out the bottom of the foregrip. But the hose is still ran the same way....really its the only way I could come up with to keep the hose compeletly hidden. The tape is just there to hold it tight to the LPR. If you mean the placement of the hole that the hose goes through; it cannot be placed anywhere else, because if you look at the fittings on the RT pro forgrip, it is almost all hollow and pressurized.

[ShotgunFacelift]

Plain beastly!

:headbang: Kudos to you

[Hilltop Customs]

Plain beastly!

:headbang: Kudos to you

Thanks! :cheers:

[sunjess]

Wow, what you have there is the millennium falcon of paintball guns.




"she might not look like much but she got it where it counts kid"

:argh:

[Hilltop Customs]

Wow, what you have there is the millennium falcon of paintball guns.




"she might not look like much but she got it where it counts kid"

:argh:

LOL

she may not be MOTM quality but I dont think she looks THAT horrible. Probably would have helped a lot if I cleaned it up for the pictures.

Id rather spend the ~$200 saved from anno on paint :headbang: pretty stuff is for women anyway :p

[seekandestroy78]

a few questions,

1) how many wires do you have from the board, by my count its 11

2) do you have to be a genius to hook up the noid to the board?

3) how did you rig the membrane pad? did you just cut it?

and lastly total cost?

thanks

[Hilltop Customs]

a few questions,

1) how many wires do you have from the board, by my count its 11

2) do you have to be a genius to hook up the noid to the board?

3) how did you rig the membrane pad? did you just cut it?

and lastly total cost?

thanks

1) wires....2 for the noid, 2 for the battery, 2 for the switch and 4 for the led

2) noid to board is just soldering up 2 wires....not difficult at all

3)yep, just cut 2 membrane pads in half so the could be located under the grip in different positions. When you look at the back side of the pad you can see how the leads run; the center lead basically T's off to both sides of the pad. Both seperate switches need this center lead, so you need 2 pads(unless you want to play around and try to attach a wire directly the pad)

Total cost....ummmm roughly off the top of my head:
board ~60
noid ~50
lpr~10-30
mpa3,hoses and connections ~15

ep mag~priceless


really price is dependent on what tools you have available to you though. You will need at least a 10-32 bit/tap and also a 1/8"npt tap(if your going to tap for a LPR) a few dremel bits, and some other random stuff. To get any of the holes straight, you should really use a drill press.

[Hgblues]

I know this thread is old, but i'll give it a shot. I'm wiring up my T board. I dont have eyes (level X), so do I need to just leave the wires for the EP valve,Eye LED, Eye sensor, 5v out, all unhooked and just tuck them somewhere in the grip? And, is that going to affect any of the modes.

thanks ahead of time

[Hilltop Customs]

I know this thread is old, but i'll give it a shot. I'm wiring up my T board. I dont have eyes (level X), so do I need to just leave the wires for the EP valve,Eye LED, Eye sensor, 5v out, all unhooked and just tuck them somewhere in the grip? And, is that going to affect any of the modes.

thanks ahead of time

You can actually pull the wires out of the connector, just use a small knife(xacto works great) or a tiny screwdriver so slightly lift the little tabs holding the wire in place. The wire will come out EASILY with the end still crimped on, so in the future you can just pop it back in place. If it doesnt come out easy, STOP, make sure your releasing the right tab for the wire your pulling on.

You can leave them if you dont mind the mess, but its really worth it to pop them out. It cuts the wire #'s in half.

I dont think it effects any modes, the board just acts like there is always a ball in the breach.


Have fun and post some pics when your done! :dance: and thanks for bumping my thread up! :clap:

[warbeak2099]

vids yet?

[Hgblues]

trigger switch mounted, ram mounted, unused wires removed from harness. Another day closer! :headbang:

Any idea what size drill bit you used to drill the hole for the led light to fit snugly in?

[Hilltop Customs]

I'll get a vid next time I have some extra paint after playing....hopefully in about 3 weeks(damn busy summer)

ummm the led is 5mm so its .196in.....3/16 is .1875 so you might be able to shove it in there....I cant remember what I used though. 5mm if you have metric bits.

[Hilltop Customs]

sorry last post i was in a hurry, burgers were going to burn on the grill

as for the drill bit size you can go a little over and use a tiny dab of hot glue on the side of the bulb. Dab it on then let it harden up completely, then try to put the bulb in, too much sand it down. Mine is so tight that i actually use a punch and literally tap it out with a hammer.

it wont take much to keep it in place, just get the hole close. 3/16 or 7/32 would be my guess for the hole size. You can sand the diameter of the bulb down SLIGHTLY and it will still work(just a little more than completely hazy). I actually sanded mine down all hazy cause it is just too bright. I'm thinking about hot gluing over it(its recessed) just to see how it looks dimmed down more.



I might be able to get some dry firing this week sometime.....that is if i can get my tanks and scubas back. Might order some paint here so we will see.

[chafnerjr]

I like it... one question though... how many games do you get out of the electrical tape? You should use duct tape to throw people off even more :D Still... hot sleeper!!!

[Hilltop Customs]

I like it... one question though... how many games do you get out of the electrical tape? You should use duct tape to throw people off even more :D Still... hot sleeper!!!

Most of the electrical tapes now gone, got a new micro rock that doesnt stick out the bottom of the rubber on the foregrip and used some velcro to hold other stuff in place....much easier for dissassembly.

Never got around to making eyes....havent had a broken ball in 2 times out playing. So i'm putting it off untill I get a break on the bolt(knock on wood)

[Hgblues]

hey HIlltop, I got everything put together, the modes seem to be right. It looks like I may cut some of the inside of my grips , you were right, that's a tight fit.

One problem right now though, I aired up to make sure the ram was working right, and it's leaking. If i put the air where it needs to be to fire it properly it leaks, if i go much more, the screw in the ram extends out and stays. I can fine tune the aire (using a jack hammer II), but what is the best way to stop the leak?

thanks

[Hilltop Customs]

where is the leak coming from?

my noid has a tiny leak all the time, the leak is there all the way down to no pressure. I thought it was just my noid, but maybe thats how these little noids are?!?(i dont see a reason they would leak like that though) I checked all the hoses and barbs, but the leak seems to be coming from the noid itself. When I shut off my asa that little leak will stay for a good 10 minutes, so it really is a slow leak....but its just annoying.

Also its better to use something smooth in the ram....at first I just used a screw with threads, but I ended up having problems with the threads catching on that inner washer that is held in by the c-clip. If it catches there is no good way to fix it in game, so I went with something smooth so it couldnt catch....a piece of cut down round bar, or the smooth shank off a bolt work real well for this. Really you dont need the c-clip, washer, or spring....they just help return the ram quicker and keep the ram centered.

[Hgblues]

Ok, I'm a gettin there! I got the leak stopped on the ram, think my hose was just pinched. I came to realize that I needed to dremel out every single piece of metal I felt I could do without to get all this stuff to fit. BUT! I got it all in there (guess i'm gonna have to hollow out my grips, right now the grips look like a pregnant cow), and all the modes work great. Gotta get my macro fittings tomorrow, then make sure my X valve dont need any tweaking and start slingin paint! .

Now, I havent shot paint in it yet, but , if this thing works like it should, it'll be the gun I've been lookin for for the past 5 years :dance: . I did the whole mod sitting at my kitchen table with a dremel, a cordless drill, and a few other minor tools. So, anybody can do this mod. :shooting:

your pics kept my head from exploding , hilltop, thanks a ton ! :cheers:

[Hilltop Customs]

No problem, I bet your questions will help a lot if anyone reads this in the future and tries to do the mod :cheers:

I hope yours works as easy as mine did....I just gassed mine up to check for leaks and accidently bumped the trigger and "bang bang" :wow: and after that I couldnt stop dryfiring till I bled 2 scubas dry.

post up pics or a vid if you can! Ive been too busy with summer classes and work to go play(i get my scubas filled right be4 going to play) or I would have posted one by now.

[Hgblues]

UNBELIEVABLE! :headbang:

Now, i'm used to heavy construction, and i'm the first to admit I dont have the hands of a surgeon or electronic technician, but I DID IT! :dance:

Hilltop you did a great job with the dremel and the wires, as mine is not quite as neat. I think the next one I do will be much more preofessional looking. I dremel'd out the inside of my Dye sticky grips to give me a little more room, and now they lay flat on the frame. Stuck the air to the gun, and a X valve that hadn't been fired in 5 years started poppin like it did brand new out of the box ! :clap: I shot 3 pods of some old paint I had left from a tourney i played several months ago, set on psp ramp at 13 bps. Zero paint chops, the level X saved a few breaks, and the thing shot like a laser.

I'll see about getting some pics and/or video up soon. Probably youtube the video or somethin.

OH, I weighed the whole setup, because everyone says how heavy mags are....with the gun, dye drop forward, warp feed, revy hopper, crossfire 68/4500, 14 j j edge barrel, It weighed 8.8 lbs. I weighed a DM4 with just tank and hopper that weighed 7.6 lbs. So the only difference in weight was the warpfeed. I figure a real man wouldn't whine about carrying an extra pound .

[MagModderMatt]

ok I have a couple questions. First (your sleeper is by far better IMO.
Im switching from a Spydermag with a
t-board to a sleaper EP mag.

Question one, How did you put an LPR where the orginal front grip is? it doesn't unscrew.. did you tap new holes after cutting it off?? (thats what it looks like) Please tell me how the hell you did that?! it doesn't unscrew, Did you tap new threads with a drill press? or just use a regular drill and bench? you did an amazing job, I've been moding mags for 13 years, you have the best sleaper I've seen next to the Electrician. Great work! please let me know what EP parts you are using! thanks

Two, Are you using a UTB board ? that's a tiny lil board, I am going to use one, and W/ the stock RT on/off expect atleast 30 bps cuz its faster than ULT recharge rate. The
UTB is the best board for EP mag's I think, Tiny virsitile, and FAST as hell (and it has a eye programing mode).

Finaly three. What noid do you use? is it that small one that Air Solder sells? model # pls
I love the all black sleeper look you have goin, most people wouldnt even know it's not just an RT till you shoot a rope of paint at them!! :shooting:

My (spydermag Almost done just need T-board) (Im guna make a EP with intelligrip and the UTB) my spydermag will smoke all others with a T-board.
I cant wait till my sleaper is done! BTW, pneumags work great with regular RT on/offs even with the heavy pull, they recharge faster too! (you just need pneumatics + electronics that can take about 300 psi probly can get away with 250psi. (im not gunna use a ULT I have a regular RT banjo bolt valve)

I found someone that will do the milling!! Tunaman!! thanks tuna :cheers: He has my valve right now. as far as I know, he is the only person willing to do it still and very cheap from a person as well known for his excelent work $31 including shipping.. for the ULT Milling.
NO ONE ELSE WILL DO THIS ANYMORE here he is site =.tunamart (http://www.tunamart.com/) .
I now have a tuna mag :shooting: he's good, and inexpensive for milling stainless steel to those tolerences (he has done lots, none have gone bad) all work! so if you need it, (I checked) no one else does it anymore period. And Tuna is a Profesional. Hope he gives me tuna stickers for my Pulse :hail:

[Toll]

Nice shocker ^.^



I ofcourse kid. Looks good, no one would see it coming.

[Hilltop Customs]

ok I have a couple questions. First (your sleeper is by far better IMO.
Im switching from a Spydermag with a
t-board to a sleaper EP mag.

Question one, How did you put an LPR where the orginal front grip is? it doesn't unscrew.. did you tap new holes after cutting it off?? (thats what it looks like) Please tell me how the hell you did that?! it doesn't unscrew, Did you tap new threads with a drill press? or just use a regular drill and bench? you did an amazing job, I've been moding mags for 13 years, you have the best sleaper I've seen next to the Electrician. Great work! please let me know what EP parts you are using! thanks

Two, Are you using a UTB board ? that's a tiny lil board, I am going to use one, and W/ the stock RT on/off expect atleast 30 bps cuz its faster than ULT recharge rate. The
UTB is the best board for EP mag's I think, Tiny virsitile, and FAST as hell (and it has a eye programing mode).

Finaly three. What noid do you use? is it that small one that Air Solder sells? model # pls
I love the all black sleeper look you have goin, most people wouldnt even know it's not just an RT till you shoot a rope of paint at them!! :shooting:

My (spydermag Almost done just need T-board) (Im guna make a EP with intelligrip and the UTB) my spydermag will smoke all others with a T-board.
I cant wait till my sleaper is done! BTW, pneumags work great with regular RT on/offs even with the heavy pull, they recharge faster too! (you just need pneumatics + electronics that can take about 300 psi probly can get away with 250psi. (im not gunna use a ULT I have a regular RT banjo bolt valve)

If you know of anyone who will do the on/off milling still let me know!! id rather do it that way. (I know the I'm running a big risk milling to fit a ULT on my valve) :spit_take
Im willing to take the risk, If you know if someone who will do it.Thanks,
Matt


LPR- sawed off then tapped to the 1/8" npt, one hole in the bottom, and another hole sticking out the right side.....and finally the hole for the airline(was drilled when assembled to the rail so it would line up) Yea I used a drill press, its as straight as I could make it without making a jig up.....it has a tiny slant to it, but you would never ever notice unless I told ya.

You got it right, UTB and the solenoid that ASP sells. I forget the part #, but its the only noid ASP sells that looks like the one in the pics. If I had it to do over again, Id consider the noid p8ntbal4me says he has....but that would require a whole different assembly than it is currently because his noid is a tiny bit bigger. His noid is supposed to cycle faster and also be able to hold more pressure.

I was really considering picking up and old RT to put an ep grip on....I just loved the way they look. Only downfall is powerfeed and twistlock barrel.

I'm not aware of anyone doing it, might want to make another thread to ask....probably get more views that way.

[Hilltop Customs]

Just to add about the LPR.....you have to drill both the holes deep enough that you can tap, but not too far as to weaken the LPR too much. And its best to get the depth right the first time, or you will have to drill deeper when threads are there :eek:

It would probably be best to use the part thats chopped off of the foregrip to practice once if you havent drilled and tapped many holes.

Hgblues- getting the wires right was a pain. I found it easiest to put the stuff together how it was in the grip and measure out how far the leads had to be.....still didnt turn out perfect, but its good enough for me. I bet ripping on for the first few balls made it all worth it :shooting:

[MagModderMatt]

Thanks Hilltop, I will practice on the part I cut off before I tap the real thing, I just needed to know how you did it so I could keep my origonal "RT Look" grip. I might try that EP solenoid that holds higher Psi, I will probly use a regular RT on/off for a bit faster recharge rate, (will need all the extra psi I can get) if it wont work, I will find a local machine shop to mill out the on/off of my classic RT valve to fit the ULT. Most people wont risk it, even though I told them I would not hold them responsable if it ends up destroying the valve
(I have a classic valve as a backup)

Again that sleeper looks like a stock RT pro noone would be the wiser till you :shooting: :shooting: the crap out of them haha :headbang:

Thanks,
Matt

[Hilltop Customs]

finding the part of the foregrip to drill is the hardest part....

for the center hole you just have to measure until you have the center point(they make a tool for finding the center of a ciricle, but i didnt use it and cant think of the name) Just measure across the diameter a few few times....you should find the center after measureing 2 times, but verify by measuring a couple more.

The 2 that go in the sides are harder, and it is best to have a drill press and a small drill press vice for this. Attach the foregrip to the rail and clamp it in place so the rail is level. Now to center the bit on that high point take your drill press and slowly lower the bit down it down as you move the vice around...when the barely touches the foregrip is going to be the highpoint, and where you want to drill.

For the hole that goes between the grip frame and foregrip, once again mount the foregrip to the rail this time backwards so you will be drilling the hole at the front of the rail, and then rotating the foregrip around. Now clamp the foregrip itself into the jaws and make sure the rail is hanging vertical(both the side and top of rail is vertical) This assures you that once again the highpoint is where you want to drill.....follow the same method of moving the vice and lowering the bit...

If your going to drill with just a drill and not a press, it wont be straight.....unless you have some magic or are extremely lucky. thats not to say it wont work, it just will be nearly impossible to get it straight

Also do not forget while drilling out your foregrip that the original screw holes in the top(where it mounts to the rail) are pretty deep, and if you accidently pass through one, you will have to seal those screws in with some teflon tape. Try to avoid it if you can.



This was easily the hardest part of the entire project.....I wouldnt reccomend doing it without a press and vice.....

[MagModderMatt]

I can get Doc's mag to cocker threaded adapter for barrel, and Luke does a vertical feed (slightly offset) to the RT body, I just cant go with eyes, or the dual dentent's. Check this out though. Im gunna go with the faster noid (my grip has TONS of space) and keep my upper lookin pretty much exactly like yours (but with a classic RT body) withTHIS (http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0027.htm) mod (look half the way down the page to see the vert mod..he does other stuff you may want for your ule body and ule milling for intelliframes.. He lives like 40 miles from me so I can drive the parts to him and pick em up when he's done :clap: He does great work, When I get my RT body done like that I will show you, Think I should go polished or powdercoated black??, it will look sick. and No one would think to wounder if it even is an automag with my valve covered by the body almost all the way.. They will think its a Ion or somthing :cool: then they get shot... they will know its no Ion then :shooting:

out of all the mods on AO, yours is truly my fav, Im not much for the polished up $2000 E-Mag or Ego, you have a truly unique gun, made by you.. thats why I like it, its the best sleeper.. and IMO best EP mag period. I've seen alot too. Id probly do one other thing, get a black tennis racket wrap and go around the front grip (totaly hide everything). you deserve the award winning dancing bananna!! :dance: :dance:


finding the part of the foregrip to drill is the hardest part....

for the center hole you just have to measure until you have the center point(they make a tool for finding the center of a ciricle, but i didnt use it and cant think of the name) Just measure across the diameter a few few times....you should find the center after measureing 2 times, but verify by measuring a couple more.

The 2 that go in the sides are harder, and it is best to have a drill press and a small drill press vice for this. Attach the foregrip to the rail and clamp it in place so the rail is level. Now to center the bit on that high point take your drill press and slowly lower the bit down it down as you move the vice around...when the barely touches the foregrip is going to be the highpoint, and where you want to drill.

For the hole that goes between the grip frame and foregrip, once again mount the foregrip to the rail this time backwards so you will be drilling the hole at the front of the rail, and then rotating the foregrip around. Now clamp the foregrip itself into the jaws and make sure the rail is hanging vertical(both the side and top of rail is vertical) This assures you that once again the highpoint is where you want to drill.....follow the same method of moving the vice and lowering the bit...

If your going to drill with just a drill and not a press, it wont be straight.....unless you have some magic or are extremely lucky. thats not to say it wont work, it just will be nearly impossible to get it straight

Also do not forget while drilling out your foregrip that the original screw holes in the top(where it mounts to the rail) are pretty deep, and if you accidently pass through one, you will have to seal those screws in with some teflon tape. Try to avoid it if you can.



This was easily the hardest part of the entire project.....I wouldnt reccomend doing it without a press and vice.....

[MagModderMatt]

My spyder grip (painted all black) with minnimal milling could fit a LPR inside without much trouble, just go out the other side I have banjo bolt so just let the air go all the way through my Rail, just tuck the hose down through the spyders arched top may need a bit of milling but would work, and be almost invisable :bounce: (spyder grips are shaped like a U on top, perfect for what I need I dont need to mill it flat either, I bought a front screw thats long enough. god I love my rail now (I hated it before) but the air going through the rail to the bolt and out the other side will work to my advantage, just take my guage off and I have air output for grip and lpr inside! think about it, its perfect!
& rail that puts air t up to the valve with the banjo bolt, If you dont know what I mean by the shape of the top of the spyder grip & rail I can post pics to show you. it's perfect! I dont need to do any tapping!!

Tiny cocker lpr or somthin should fit in my fat grip no prob. would look like a regular benchmark grip on the outside (just wider like E-mag grip)
you gave me a great idea!! thanks
ur sleeper is still is hella sick, Mine will just be lil different, by leavin the front grip alone. Banjo bolt is worth a damn! go figure
:cheers:
Matt

[Hilltop Customs]

good to see your getting it all thought out. Ive always loved the banjo bolt idea because I like to sight down the right side of my mag and theres that stupid macro fitting there. IMO there isnt a gun out there that looks as good as an old school RT....but then again I even have the old AGD poster of a guy painting the side of a house with a pic of an RT....they just look so clean.

Good idea on the cocker barrel adapter....it will make eyes much easier and you wont have to cut up every twistlock barrel you have. That body mod is nice too....ive been considering getting it for my old mag I have, but its just my exterme beater/loaner, so I cant justify it.

[cioeboy]

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/IMG_0155copy.jpg
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I just have to ask this. Where did you get that plastic 90* barb? I see them on pneumags alot and now that I'm starting an ep mag I dont want to have to clearance another big high flow 90 from palmers.

[BREAD_DA_PAINTER]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I just have to ask this. Where did you get that plastic 90* barb? I see them on pneumags alot and now that I'm starting an ep mag I dont want to have to clearance another big high flow 90 from palmers.


look in the dealers thread for cyberave68 pnuemag and magnet thread and he sells the barbs your looking for.

[Hilltop Customs]

thanks BREAD_DA_PAINTER....that is exactly where I got them.

[cioeboy]

Thanks

In two weeks when I get my paycheck I should be able to complete my ego framed ep mag.

[Hilltop Customs]

bump for anyone looking for EP info. I'm going to get a video of at least dryfiring this weekend...

[Southpaw]

is this the noid that you are using?

Air soldier link (http://www.airsoldier.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AOS&Product_Code=SMC-S070C-SDG-32&Category_Code=SOLENOIDS)

[Hilltop Customs]

yep thats the one, sorry didnt see your post sooner

oh and I still havent got my scubas back from hydro(long story) so no air for a video :(

[Hilltop Customs]

I was re-doing my epmag and thought I'd post up a quick vid.

800 psi in scuba tank, which is in turn filling the on-gun tank.
classic valve, rt on/off(cant find my std on/off), lvl 10 with medium spring
gun in semi

sorry for quality, I've never uploaded a video before and didnt bother looking up what resolution to fit it to.

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i62.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/EPmagwithclassicvalve.flv">


ps, I wasnt interested in testing high rof with the classic valve. With only 800psi in the tank, I'm pretty impressed it didnt chuff at all as is.(especially considering the medium spring)

[Hilltop Customs]

well I decided to test a couple modes.....ramping, the classic had no chance of keeping up, but who knows, with a full tank it might.

full auto seems like the perfect ROF, wish I had some paint to test velocity drop off.

Heres a clip of FA....BPS should be whatever the FA setting for the UTB are. It did sputter on the very last shot. I have to say I'm pretty impressed for it being a classic valve.

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i62.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/rhizzill/epclassicFA.flv">

Think I better quit now, almost midnight....dont really feel like having cops coming to my place. :cool: