X Valve chuffing when rappid firing

[mpsd]

Hi,

I went to play last sunday and one of my X valves is chuffing (and, therefore, not shooting) when I rapid fire it. It has the ULT kit and the Level X. If I shoot slowly, it operates normally and doesn't chuff nor leaks but when I start shooting faster (walking the trigger) it starts to chuff like every ten shot or so, but it's pretty anoying (is that how you spell that word? :rofl: ). Anyway, any ideas?

Thanks!

:cheers:

[jonny72888]

sounds like you need a better tank regulator
what kind do you have now?

[mpsd]

Thanks, Johny. This marker is set up with a Max Flo Micro and a 45ci 4500 psi tank. I changed the valve for another one, without the ULT, and it performed perfectly so I´m absolutelly sure the problem is in the valve and not in the air comming onto it.

Thanks.

[jade_monkey07]

I would think its the level 10 thats SLIGHTLY out of tune, on the verge of bolt stick. OR you could be short stroking the ult.

[TheRock]

ill get that chuffing to when i try to walk it with ULT and only at that time. i think it could be shortstroking too.

[mpsd]

I would think its the level 10 thats SLIGHTLY out of tune, on the verge of bolt stick. OR you could be short stroking the ult.

Yeah, it looks like the Level 10 problem you mentioned. As for the ULT, I can´t be short strocking it since it has a MPA-3 acting the sear and it was done by Pneumagger. I mean, this guy knows it better than most so I wouldn´t believe that was the problem.

Being so, if it´s a Level X tuning problem, what should I do? Put one more shim or change the spacer for a larger one?

[TwilightG]

I'm no expert, but someone did correct me once in another post explaining how you can still short-stroke a pneu-trigger.

Although the MPA-3 is actuating the sear, you can still short stroke the MSV. I don't know enough about pneu-triggers to give advice on tuning, but you could try Cyber's magnet mod to increase the trigger return force.

[athomas]

If you are short stroking due to bolt stick, then level 10 shims won't help. You need to use a larger carrier. Remove the level 10 shims when doing this to make sure you don't get shim induced leaking. It will guarrantee that you get the best fit.

You can short stroke a pneumatic setup. The mag valve only recharges once the sear resets. If you fire the gun before the valve recharges, then you short stroke it. Walking the trigger can reduce the time between when the trigger is released and when it actuates the pneumatics again, thus reducing the recharge time and potentially short stroking your mag.

[athomas]

If you are short stroking due to bolt stick, then level 10 shims won't help. You need to use a larger carrier. Remove the level 10 shims when doing this to make sure you don't get shim induced leaking. It will guarrantee that you get the best fit.

You can short stroke a pneumatic setup. The mag valve only recharges once the sear resets. If you fire the gun before the valve recharges, then you short stroke it. Walking the trigger can reduce the time between when the trigger is released and when it actuates the pneumatics again, thus reducing the recharge time and potentially short stroking your mag. This would be magnified if there is any bolt stick at all that is adding bolt cycle time.

[mpsd]

If you are short stroking due to bolt stick, then level 10 shims won't help. You need to use a larger carrier. Remove the level 10 shims when doing this to make sure you don't get shim induced leaking. It will guarrantee that you get the best fit.

You can short stroke a pneumatic setup. The mag valve only recharges once the sear resets. If you fire the gun before the valve recharges, then you short stroke it. Walking the trigger can reduce the time between when the trigger is released and when it actuates the pneumatics again, thus reducing the recharge time and potentially short stroking your mag. This would be magnified if there is any bolt stick at all that is adding bolt cycle time.

I´ll fuss with the Level 10 and will let you know. Probably I´ll only have time to do it on the weekend.

How about the ULT? Can it be using too many shims? Maybe if I take some of them off, would it help too? I´ll test it with the standard RT on/off and see what happens.

Meanwhile if anyone else can give me some advice, I´d apreciate that.

[Mongoose]

try using a stronger spring

[mpsd]

try using a stronger spring

Which one? The longer, red?

[Ruler_Mark]

Which one? The longer, red?

grey is the strongest

[wahoo5x5]

Do you have a fast enough hopper to keep up with your trigger fingers?

[mpsd]

Do you have a fast enough hopper to keep up with your trigger fingers?

I´m using a VLocity (the standard, not the Jr). Should keep up. I can measure my BPS with this gun but, on my e-Mag, in mixed mode, I get continuous 16 BPS with 18 BPS peaks. So, A VLocity should work well enough.

[Ruler_Mark]

i have experience this before,, this is caused by a lil tiny bit of bolt stick not usually noticeable but because of the stick it takes longer to rest therefore only noticeable at higher rof. Just tune your lvl X alot more,swap to lvl 7, also makesure the tolerances of the body and rail sitting with the valve are all correct because if that valve isnt sitting on it perfectly it will cause stick, this is why xmags 1 piece instead of 2 are alot easier to setup

[muddshutter]

CALL ROMAN AT AGD,

he will help you and get it right for you. I had the same problem, in a few short chats, it was fixed.

[Ruler_Mark]

CALL ROMAN AT AGD,

he will help you and get it right for you. I had the same problem, in a few short chats, it was fixed.


do tell how your issue was fixed

[mpsd]

OK. An update. Today I put some air into it again and, guess what. It went full auto just by turning the air on. Didn't need to pull the trigger and the thing was firing at over 50 bps :rofl:

I then took the valve out into my splash classic body (single trigger, mech mag) and it was going full auto just by pulling the trigger. I opened it and saw that the ULT had 5 shims inside it. Took 3 of them out but ran out of air. Tomorrow I'll be at a small champ here (20 teams, all amateur) and will test it again. But it was funny...

[Ruler_Mark]

OK. An update. Today I put some air into it again and, guess what. It went full auto just by turning the air on. Didn't need to pull the trigger and the thing was firing at over 50 bps :rofl:

I then took the valve out into my splash classic body (single trigger, mech mag) and it was going full auto just by pulling the trigger. I opened it and saw that the ULT had 5 shims inside it. Took 3 of them out but ran out of air. Tomorrow I'll be at a small champ here (20 teams, all amateur) and will test it again. But it was funny...

went an played at a field today, i had my emag set to 13/sec and people thought i was shooting 20, i turned it to 20(not with paint cause my wallet..) needless to say i was gunned for the rest of the day.

[mpsd]

went an played at a field today, i had my emag set to 13/sec and people thought i was shooting 20, i turned it to 20(not with paint cause my wallet..) needless to say i was gunned for the rest of the day.

That's a good thing. Mine isn't working though... :rofl:

But yes, 13 BPS is more than enough for anyone. That's why PSP and Millenium put "new" limits to the guns. Now, funny thing is: wasn't that same limit "imposed" as an industry standard, back in day when Tom and the Gardner brothers were launching both the e-Mag and the Shocker 7 years ago? Now, just pretend I didn't write that last sentence, otherwise I'll miss my thread to one more "Tom was right from the very begining" discussion (I know, I know, he was...).