Need help before Saturday!

[Lude55]

Hi I have a RT ULE Custom and I have a 5-man woodsball tournament this Saturday but my gun developed a problem last week. I was shooting my gun when I started to notice two things. One problem was I started to hear an air leak coming from my barrel and it was constant. When I would pull on the trigger just a little bit the air leaks started to slow down and the more I put pressure on the trigger without firing it, it would slow down until the air leak stopped. I was putting pressure on the silver solenoid shaft and it was stopping the air leak. How do I fix this problem? The other problem is my velocity was erratic, I would go as low as 260 fps and as high as 298 feet per second. Would the air leak have something to do with this? Some of the times I would be shooting the gun and then it was like the whole gun lost air pressure (you could hear the air just depress from the gun) and a couple of paintballs would just roll out of the end of the barrel but then start firing again. I am very concerned about the erratic velocity because I know the Automag is more consistent than that. This was my third outing with this gun and it shoot great the first two times I was out. I bought this marker brand new so it has not had a lot of paint shot through it…maybe like 3,000 rounds. Any help would be great because this is my primary marker and I would love to have it fixed for this weekends tourney. Thanks again.

[olinar]

Hey, Im not too sure what the problem is exactly as Ive never had this problem.

However, Brand new mags have a break in period just like anything else and they love oil during it. Make sure you put 3 to 4 drops in the asa each time you air it up and shoot 20 to 30 rounds with the barrel off and a towel where the barrel would screw in.

Itll lube all the internals and shoot excess oil right out.

Sorry I couldnt be more help.

[craltal]

Sounds like the on/off needs some oil. Personally I'd pull the valve and with it upside down, remove the on/off and put some oil directly in there, replace the on/off assembly, re-install the valve, put about 5 drops in the ASA, remove the barrel, air it up, and fire into a rag until there's no more oil coming out of the gun.

[michbich]

Sounds like the on/off needs some oil. Personally I'd pull the valve and with it upside down, remove the on/off and put some oil directly in there, replace the on/off assembly, re-install the valve, put about 5 drops in the ASA, remove the barrel, air it up, and fire into a rag until there's no more oil coming out of the gun.

I would start with that as well.

[secretweaponevan]

put about 5 drops in the ASA, remove the barrel, air it up, and fire into a rag until there's no more oil coming out of the gun.

Do that. It will probably correct your sticking on/off and also properly lube your powertube o-ring - which is where the constant leak is coming from.

[Lude55]

Thank you for the replies. I did put some oil in it the second time I played but I only put around 3 or 4 drops. I guess it being brand new I need to keep it oiled more often? I will try first just putting oil in it when I get home and shot it some until oil comes out the barrel area. If that does not work I will take it apart like some one suggested. I am new to the Automag so I guess I get to the on/off by removing the trigger grips?

[Spider-TW]

Thank you for the replies. I did put some oil in it the second time I played but I only put around 3 or 4 drops. I guess it being brand new I need to keep it oiled more often? I will try first just putting oil in it when I get home and shot it some until oil comes out the barrel area. If that does not work I will take it apart like some one suggested. I am new to the Automag so I guess I get to the on/off by removing the trigger grips?
You would have to remove the valve from the marker. After you get the air out of the gun, take out the big frame screw at the back of the grip frame. You will have to twist the valve about 1/32 of a turn clockwise to clear the retaining pin that fits in a slot in the frame, but after that the valve should jiggle loose. The on/off is the brass part in the bottom side of the valve.

I think there are some youtube videos on automag maintenance you can watch. If you have a level 10 bolt, you need to watch that one too. It is very likely that your level 10 is worn in and needs a tighter carrier (a dot less or trade a ring for a dot).

It's possible that a good oiling will fix it all, but you're going to have to get in there eventually.

[SchoolU101]

The problem is definitely your on/off. Oil it (like everyone said). Do you know if you have a ULT kit? If you do, consider adding a shim or two and see if that fixes it.

[Lude55]

The problem is definitely your on/off. Oil it (like everyone said). Do you know if you have a ULT kit? If you do, consider adding a shim or two and see if that fixes it.


It does have the level 10 and also it has the ULT kit. I will oil it like everyone said when I get home. So after it breaks in I will have to add shims to it?

Also Spider when you say "It is very likely that your level 10 is worn in and needs a tighter carrier (a dot less or trade a ring for a dot)". I'm am not sure what you are referring to. The marker did come with shims and some other items so I guess I will have to look at that a little more.

[Lude55]

I want to thank everyone for there help. When I got home I put some oil in the ASA and shot several rounds. It helped a little bit but it still had a bad leak. So I went online like someone suggested and found a video on how to take the value apart and remove the level 10 out. I oiled what they suggested and the small O-ring it showed and put it all back together. When I aired it up it was music to my ears...(that is no air leak noise). I shot several rounds and It is perfect :headbang: . Now the only question I have left is the velocity and where it was erratic, It would go as low as 260 fps and as high as 298 feet per second. Would the air leak have something to do with this? Thanks again for all your help

[secretweaponevan]

Now the only question I have left is the velocity and where it was erratic, It would go as low as 260 fps and as high as 298 feet per second. Would the air leak have something to do with this? Thanks again for all your help

Short answer: No. That would more than likely be a bad paint to barrel match, or improper chrono technique (see below)

Long answer: Very slim chance. If you were pulling the trigger slow enough for the on/off to close off the supply air and the dump chamber (everything forward of the on/off) was leaking, that would lower the velocity the longer it vented before firing, but more than likely it is what I listed above.

How to chrono any RT valve:
Since the RT valve fires so fast that the air will heat up and raise the pressure (why you cannot use CO2), you have to simulate rapid-fire conditions while chronoing by holding the trigger down, releasing and then very quickly pulling and holding the trigger down again.