Banjo Bolt Issue Part II - IT'S BAAAAAACK...

[Lithium]

For those of you that helped out before thanks, but I have traced my leaking problem down to the banjo bolt for my RT Classic.

I replaced all the orings and the gun worked like a dream...for about 200 rounds then it started leaking air again. DAMNIT!!!!! So, I go to take the valve off and the banjo bolt is stuck like chuck. This isn't the 1st time this has happened so I just grabbed my pliers and proceeded to pull it out. Once I get it out, I realize that the 2nd oring from the top (brand new one too) is dead. It was pinched and pulled away from the bolt and therefore was leaking air. So I replaced it with a somewhat used, but good oring. put it back in, aired it up, and everything was good. Again, only for a few hundred rounds. Again, the banjo bolt was stuck, and upon removal the 2nd oring was shot.

So, in conclusion, something in or around the valve is moving/shifting and pinching the banjo bolt's 2nd oring. All the rest are completely fine. If i dont shoot the gun, I can put the banjo bolt in and take it out without any problems, but the moment I air it up and shoot it I can't get the bugger out w/o a pair of pliers.

I plan to call AGD around lunch time today, but anyone have any thoughts???

Sorry for the long story, but I really appreciate everyone's help.

[Coralis]

Im not sure but do the classic RT valves have the zlock pin and is yours installed .... is the rail damaged where the pin would sit allowing the valve to move and causing your issue

[Lithium]

Im not sure but do the classic RT valves have the zlock pin and is yours installed .... is the rail damaged where the pin would sit allowing the valve to move and causing your issue

I'm not familiar with a ZLOCK pin. What does it do?

[BiNumber3]

you mean the pin on the valve body that acts to guide and hold the valve into the body? Dunno if not havin that pin would affect the banjo bolt o-rings that way tho.

Wat trigger frame are u usin? are there any parts that seem like theyre not fitting properly? Ive a couple classic RT's, one using a modified shocker frame, yet i have yet to mess up an o-ring.

[Coralis]

^^^ yes thats the pin z lock pin (http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=444&categoryID=101) the only reason i suggested the pin as it sounds like the valve is getting misaligned after it is shot a few times and tearing up the orings.

[211]

I had the same problem
what fixed it for me was to put a bad oring around the base of the banjo bolt. It will act as a slight spacer and it will lock the banjo in place
what was happening with mine was the second oring from the valve side (which I think is the same one you are havind problems with) would sit slightly higher in the rail than it was supposed to, so when it was put under pressure the oring would blow out, it would start to leak, and then because the oring was out of place it would jam up the banjo bolt making it very hard to remove

hope it works for you

[Lithium]

you mean the pin on the valve body that acts to guide and hold the valve into the body? Dunno if not havin that pin would affect the banjo bolt o-rings that way tho.

Wat trigger frame are u usin? are there any parts that seem like theyre not fitting properly? Ive a couple classic RT's, one using a modified shocker frame, yet i have yet to mess up an o-ring.

That pin is just there to make sure the back of the valve doesn't turn when you adjust the velocity. I talked with Roman at AGD about that yesterday.

Him and I were talking and him and I were thinking maybe the rail is warped!?!? Obviously, he couldn't tell for sure w/o actually seeing it, but it really makes the most sense. I have the newest banjo bolt (has two rings at the bottom), I have a stock AGD frame, and a stock R/T valve. So, my thought process is this. The banjo bolt is just there to hold the valve in place and to allow the air to flow from the frame to the valve. The banjo bolt only screws into the valve, so the valve really couldn't be bad. BUT, if the rail is warped or somehow worn down in a certain spot it would pinch the oring and now allow the banjo bolt to come out and also leak air. What are you guy's thoughts on that?

[Lithium]

I had the same problem
what fixed it for me was to put a bad oring around the base of the banjo bolt. It will act as a slight spacer and it will lock the banjo in place
what was happening with mine was the second oring from the valve side (which I think is the same one you are havind problems with) would sit slightly higher in the rail than it was supposed to, so when it was put under pressure the oring would blow out, it would start to leak, and then because the oring was out of place it would jam up the banjo bolt making it very hard to remove

hope it works for you

I like that idea. So you're saying put an oring right above the thumb screw piece? Maybe a few washers would work just as well?? Did you use the same size orings as the ones used on the banjo bolt itself? Sorry for my crude ASCII drawing, but is this what you mean?



| | - beginning of the shaft going to the rest of the orings...
( ) - ORING/spacer?
====== - Thumb screw

[211]

thats the spot, it should go in between the grip frame and the head of the field strip screw
I just used one of the chewed up banjo bolt orings, I had a pile before I figured it out
I wouldnt use a washer, with the oring on the bolt you can tighten it down if you need, the oring will compress where a washer isnt going to give you any leeway
it sounds like you got some of those banjo orings on hand, give it a try

[Tunaman]

There was a rail update on the original RT. You may have an old one.

[Lithium]

There was a rail update on the original RT. You may have an old one.

Anyway to know which one I have, and why did they update it?

[Lithium]

thats the spot, it should go in between the grip frame and the head of the field strip screw
I just used one of the chewed up banjo bolt orings, I had a pile before I figured it out
I wouldnt use a washer, with the oring on the bolt you can tighten it down if you need, the oring will compress where a washer isnt going to give you any leeway
it sounds like you got some of those banjo orings on hand, give it a try

I'm going to give that a try later on tonight. I'll keep you posted.

[211]

so did it work?

[Lithium]

so did it work?

I'm out of good banjo rings for now, but I have some en route and will be going on later this week. It is still leaking air, but the top-most oring is pinched so I'm hoping that's the only problem. Your idea DID fix the problem of the banjo bolt getting lodged and needing to be pulled out by a pair of pliers.

I'll keep ya posted :)

Thanks for all the help!!

[Lithium]

IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

No more leaks!

So, I got a new rail from someone on the forums (thanks again man) and that didn't fix it. I was pissed at first. Not at him, of course, but pissed that it was still leaking. Anyway, I put the oring on the end of the banjo bolt and that fixed the problem of the 2nd oring getting pinched. Thanks again for that bright idea.

The problem actually was the banjo bolt. The oring on the bottom of the banjo bolt fixed one thing, but messed up another (until I figured it out). You have to tighten it more than just hand tight when you have that oring on there. I did it hand tight and then the rest of the way with an allen wrench and BAAMM works like a charm.

Mags are like old cars. You gotta do some crazy **** sometimes to juryrig something to work, but hey it works right!

Thanks again guys for all your help!

NOW!! Anyone want to buy it?? :) :)

[211]

Excellent, good to hear it worked for you