cocker diagnosis?

[B-Pow]

Okay I know this is an automag forum...but you guys actually have a clue unlike some other forums. *cough*bpn*cough*

I picked up a NIB 04 prostock last summer and was having many problems with inconsistant velosity. So I changed the HPR from the nickel plated sissy regulator that was on there to a CP HPR. I thought that would fix my +/- 20-30 fps range I was getting. However I took it with me to go play last weekend and I was still +/- 20 and then put it back in the bag, rather annoyed. The pressure in the gun is around 380, I put a centerflag gadge on the frontblock. I read somewhere that 380 is a good starting point for cocker pressure, and the hpr needs to break in before I try to sweet spot the regulator.

Since my fps range is still all over the place and the pressure in the gun is a known constant (close enough) I believe the problem is with the valve, valve spring, or the hammer spring. Would this be a good assumption? I did check the hammer spring and it looked alright and still felt "spring-y" but I was not able to check the valve as I do not have a valve tool..I may pick one up after work today since I am lucky enough to drive past Action Village between my home and my place of work.

I am thinking to remedy the problem I may look into getting a madman spring kit and rocket valve. This gun was purchased as a project and as a primary mech gun so I'm not worried about "dumping money into it" afterall it's not an ion.

[trevorjk]

first thing i would do is set the high pressure reg to around 280-300

2nd turn the LPR out. then slowly turn it in until the cocker fully times. then give it another half to full turn

3rd. back the velocity adjuster nut almost all the way out.

then fine tune from there. has always worked for me

[B-Pow]

first thing i would do is set the high pressure reg to around 280-300

2nd turn the LPR out. then slowly turn it in until the cocker fully times. then give it another half to full turn

3rd. back the velocity adjuster nut almost all the way out.

then fine tune from there. has always worked for me

The LPR is currently set to a psi that where if I hammer on the trigger it always recocks I mean really fanning that thing so like 8-10ish bps (more than I'd ever try to use in any game without an e-frame, which I don't want)..so the LPR is in the right-ish spot.

The IVG (velocity adjuster nut) was about 2 turns from out when I started with it on Saturday.

I did go up and down on the HPR after the IVG didn't really help...and had the best ranges with the HPR at around 380...but I'll try 280-300 psi I don't think I went that low (if I can get my hands on a cronograph).

[trevorjk]

The LPR is currently set to a psi that where if I hammer on the trigger it always recocks I mean really fanning that thing so like 8-10ish bps (more than I'd ever try to use in any game without an e-frame, which I don't want)..so the LPR is in the right-ish spot.

The IVG (velocity adjuster nut) was about 2 turns from out when I started with it on Saturday.

I did go up and down on the HPR after the IVG didn't really help...and had the best ranges with the HPR at around 380...but I'll try 280-300 psi I don't think I went that low (if I can get my hands on a cronograph).


do you know if the previous owner did anything to the gun? different springs ect?

how close are you to wisconsin? i could help fix it one of these weekends

[drg]

Are you using good paint and a matched barrel?

Try sweet-spotting the regulator.

[B-Pow]

Trevor: I'm the first owner I bought the gun new from Action Village when they were clearing them out last summer

DRG: used matched barrels most of the time, XO Spectrum and DXS blaze. It's going to be hard to sweet spot when the gun is going anywhere between 250-300fps...and I don't have a crono to do that.

[runningboar]

This is my first post so I will introduce myself. My name is Chris Webster and I started playing paintball in 1992, I took a little break because I wasn't a big fan of where the sport was going, tournament ball, then I discovered scenarios and have been playing strong. When I first started playing there were really only 2 serious paintball guns cockers and mags, I bought my first autococker in 1992 and have been playing with them ever since. Recently I have been getting an itch that I think only an Automag can scratch which brought me to this forum. After my bio LOL lets talk about your cocker problem. :p

It sounds to me that you may have a timing issue. If your 4 way starts actuating before the gun fires, IE the back block starts moving before the sear trips, it will cause velocity to fluctuate like you describe. If you slowly pull your trigger with your marker aired up and cocked, the gun should fire first then as you slowly continue to pull the trigger, the 4 way should actuate. Even if your gun is firing first, if the 4 way actuates right on top of the firing it will cause fluctuations in velocity. If you are new to cockers there are some pretty good timing videos on Youtube if you search "Autococker Timing" several will come up.

On my personal guns I run palmer's stabalizers and rocket valves. Setting up the valve according to the website's guide and running a stab I get about +/-5 fps even with CO2 if I have good paint.

I hope I helped, if you have any questions just let me know. Chris

[B-Pow]

This is my first post so I will introduce myself. My name is Chris Webster and I started playing paintball in 1992, I took a little break because I wasn't a big fan of where the sport was going, tournament ball, then I discovered scenarios and have been playing strong. When I first started playing there were really only 2 serious paintball guns cockers and mags, I bought my first autococker in 1992 and have been playing with them ever since. Recently I have been getting an itch that I think only an Automag can scratch which brought me to this forum. After my bio LOL lets talk about your cocker problem. :p

It sounds to me that you may have a timing issue. If your 4 way starts actuating before the gun fires, IE the back block starts moving before the sear trips, it will cause velocity to fluctuate like you describe. If you slowly pull your trigger with your marker aired up and cocked, the gun should fire first then as you slowly continue to pull the trigger, the 4 way should actuate. Even if your gun is firing first, if the 4 way actuates right on top of the firing it will cause fluctuations in velocity. If you are new to cockers there are some pretty good timing videos on Youtube if you search "Autococker Timing" several will come up.

On my personal guns I run palmer's stabalizers and rocket valves. Setting up the valve according to the website's guide and running a stab I get about +/-5 fps even with CO2 if I have good paint.

I hope I helped, if you have any questions just let me know. Chris

I have not yet adjusted the timing from the box, the hammer releases before the pneu's cycle the bolt..the actuation is kind of close, I could try to pull them a little farther apart.