breaking paint only when RT'ing

[SR_matt]

hello

ok so heres what is going on with my mag. tuned the trigger all down to be nice and short, i can walk it great, rt wonderfuly on it. went to a scenario, first day was lower 70's and patchy misting (very little for about and hour total) here and there. perfectly fine broke no balls at all. second day, 50s light drizzle same paint (it was left in my car and the field paint was left in the back of a ryder type truck (there were a few pallets of it in there so they couldnt store it at the field easily). i went out and broke a ball with in the first 10 mins of playing. i thought i was chopping but after looking at what was happening the paint was breaking as it was being fired. but it would only break if i rode my rt. if i walked my trigger i wouldnt get breaks (at least a whole lot less). so what the heck? should going up to a stiffer spring resolve that (im using the lightest one now)? i was only shooting 250-275 range the whole game and the second day my velocity was a little lower than the first day. the paint wasnt to bad but from past experiences im thinking the way my mag is now it doesnt like it if its below like 55-60 out.

this is the last issue im having with getting this gun to be perfect and since ive set up my trigger with stops in it i can't pull the valve out on the field easily (i cant depress the trigger pin all the way in by just pulling the trigger, have to use something to push it the rest of the way back) i used to deal with breaks on the bolt a little more easily since i couldnt rt as easily and i could pull it apart on the field

thanks
-matt

[pmstc]

Try new paint, check the paint/bore fit.

[SR_matt]

Try new paint, check the paint/bore fit.
this has been pretty consistent but i hadnt been able to track it down as to when it was happening in the gun. also if it was the paint i would expect it to happen constantly in the paint not starting the next day when it was perfect the day before and not mattering if i was rt'ing of walking the trigger
-matt

[pmstc]

Okay, then I would try re tuning your level 10 with a longer spring. Personally, I used the longest when I had a mag. It was the gentlest on paint, but kind of finicky. It had to be well oiled and the carrier size and shims set up had to be JUST right. Once I got it there though, I used it like that for 4 years.

I don't know what else it would be. Sounds like a very weird problem if the balls are breaking from the impact of the bolt. Do you have a forcefeed hopper that could be putting too much pressure on the stack?

An alternate solution could be to use higher quality paint.

Double check your paint/bore fit though. That is very crucial.

[SR_matt]

im using a reloader b but i dont think tis putting to much pressure on since it will only break in the middle of the string so if anything there would be less pressure on the stack

the paint fit seemed fine but i cant remember if i checked the second case i got but if there was any difference i would expect it to have gotten smaller due to the temp change.

the paint wasnt bad quality (red legion, very fresh) and the "higher quality" paints were more brittle.

-matt

[Spider-TW]

I would only look at the paint if you left it open for a while. Usually the swelling from the humidity outweighs the contraction from cooler temperatures.

You might look at your input pressure for your RT versus your velocity. I think it's in the RT chrony tech note about how the velocity can jump up or down while in RT, depending on your input pressure and the single shot velocity. On fragile paint it may make the difference.

[SR_matt]

I would only look at the paint if you left it open for a while. Usually the swelling from the humidity outweighs the contraction from cooler temperatures.

You might look at your input pressure for your RT versus your velocity. I think it's in the RT chrony tech note about how the velocity can jump up or down while in RT, depending on your input pressure and the single shot velocity. On fragile paint it may make the difference.
my input is only 800 (pre set tank) the velocity shouldnt have jumped up over 275 280 tops because my single shots were staying below 260.

i didnt leave the bag left in my car open and i bought a new case next day that was fully sealed (and the paint felt warmer than my paint i had left in my car. this is happening to consistently since i got the gun to be a paint issue because i make sure to get the paint with the strongest shell that should deal well.

-matt

[Spider-TW]

Yes, at 800 the RT should be shooting lower than the single shots.
RT Chronograph (http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/rtchrono.shtml)

How's your detent? I had some RP at game in February that was less than .684 and almost impossible to consistently keep in the barrel. It looked good, but there was no telling where a ball would end up when you stopped shooting. Somewhere between the breech and the ground.

[athomas]

It could just be the fact that the paint got more fragile from one day to another. Combine that with colder weather and you have paint soup. I once had paint that I couldn't shoot out the barrel without breaking. The level 10 was set light enough to stop on a dollar bill in the breach, but I couldn't even shoot single shots without it breaking in the barrel. The one thing that helps in this case is to use the largest bore you can find.

If you have some of the paint, do a drop test on a hard surface.

[SR_matt]

i dont think the detent is bad, it seems pretty stiff and its not very used.

next time i play if im having issues i think im going to try and bump to the next spring and see if it helps

-matt