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Empyreal Rogue
04-21-2008, 05:47 PM
Admittedly I'm new to the fine tuning of E/X-Mags, especially when working with the sear. So I'm experiencing some problems and I'm not sure where the problem is originating so I'll try to describe everything in the best detail I can.

I have 2 X-Valves, one on my Pneumag (X-Valve1) and one for my E-Mag (X-Valve2). I have one E/X-Mag on/off pin and I believe the other is an R/T on/off (It's slightly longer than the E/X-Mag pin, though I think the "E-Mag on/off" might have been a modified pin because the tip looks roughed up). The valve (X-Valve1) on my Pneumag is somewhat tuned, I'm waiting for a new LX kit to arrive so I can put in a new carrier. The carrier I have on that valve is a 2.5 (iirc) and when I try the 1.5 I get chuffing with no leaks, and with the 3.0 I get a lot of leaking but no chuffs. So the 2.0 should, hopefully, be the perfect size.

When I use X-Valve2 on my E-Mag it won't fire, but I know the valve gasses up because after I drain the air out the on/off pin is pushed out. Honestly I don't know if the problem here is with the sear or the valve. When I use X-Valve1 in my E-Mag the marker fires but actually has a really bad leak. I couldn't get a precise location of the leak but I could definitely hear it coming out of the barrel. I'm not sure if maybe the sear is screwed in too far or not far enough, or if that even matters.

I can't remember which pin I used in X-Valve1 when it worked on my E-Mag.

I only spent a few minutes yesterday afternoon test-firing the E-Mag put together so I could probably figure most of this out on my own, but I'd like to get some expert opinions and advice before trying it again.

211
04-21-2008, 06:16 PM
Which spring are you using for the LVLX?

Empyreal Rogue
04-21-2008, 07:00 PM
Red on X-Valve1 and Silver on X-Valve2.

Ruler_Mark
04-21-2008, 09:22 PM
make sure the front frame screw and field strip screws arent causing any bolt stick,, does it fire in mech mode?

Empyreal Rogue
04-21-2008, 09:33 PM
Hm, never thought of that.

What other things should I check?

Ruler_Mark
04-21-2008, 09:36 PM
Hm, never thought of that.

What other things should I check?

a lil bit of oil on the spring and outside of the bolt always helps.

Tunaman
04-22-2008, 04:52 AM
a lil bit of oil on the spring and outside of the bolt always helps.Never oil the bolt or spring. ;)

Ruler_Mark
04-22-2008, 05:23 AM
Never oil the bolt or spring. ;)


Oh why not now? I've only been trying it on my gun seems not have have been hurting anything,, yet.

BigEvil
04-22-2008, 06:50 AM
Oh why not now? I've only been trying it on my gun seems not have have been hurting anything,, yet.

It collects gunk ;)

Ruler_Mark
04-22-2008, 06:43 PM
It collects gunk ;)


Well if you keep it clean... just thinking it will decrease friction with the side wall vs spring and spring vs bolt.

athomas
04-22-2008, 09:11 PM
Oiling the bolt spring and/or the bolt causes oil to transfer to the breach area and the barrel. This leads to inaccuracy problems.

Empyreal Rogue: Make sure you have the proper emag pin in the valve used in the emag. If the pin is too long the marker may not fire.

Leaking could be a result of a worn sear combined with too many level 10 shims. Remove all the level 10 shims when testing any setup like this. If you feel you need level 10 shims, put them back in after you get your setup working. Test the setup for operation using the shortest bolt spring. Once you get it working, you can put the longer bolt springs back in to increase the antichop ability.

Empyreal Rogue
04-22-2008, 09:20 PM
Empyreal Rogue: Make sure you have the proper emag pin in the valve used in the emag. If the pin is too long the marker may not fire.

Turns out that's the exact problem. I actually compared the sizes of the 2 pins and one is in fact considerably longer than the other. Looks like I need to shop around for another pin since the R/T pin doesn't work in my Pneumag either. :\


Leaking could be a result of a worn sear combined with too many level 10 shims. Remove all the level 10 shims when testing any setup like this. If you feel you need level 10 shims, put them back in after you get your setup working. Test the setup for operation using the shortest bolt spring. Once you get it working, you can put the longer bolt springs back in to increase the antichop ability.

I haven't tried tuning the inside of the valve just yet, my original test was just to see if it would fire then work from there to eliminate leaks and chuffs. I'm waiting to get my hands on a new LX kit with new carriers so I can test some possibilities. My original LX kit is missing a few carriers and those missing carriers might be just the pieces I need to stop either the leaks or the chuffs. That valve currently has 0 shims in it. Once I eliminate the chuffs or leak I'll start adding shims in.