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PanzerGen
05-08-2008, 01:11 PM
I'm having some trouble with my pneumag I just built. I can't seem to shoot it very fast at all without shortshoking it. It seems to shoot on the first shot and fail to recharge after that one. I am using an msv-2, a palmer lpr, and mpa-3 (Cyberrave mod kit). Does anyone have any tuning guides, hints, tips that will help me make it a walkable pneumag? It is light enough to walk but not consistent enough.

SithSteve
05-08-2008, 04:02 PM
Your sear might not be cycling fully (it might not be able to reset itself after it's fired)...

PanzerGen
05-08-2008, 05:53 PM
Your sear might not be cycling fully (it might not be able to reset itself after it's fired)...

Hum, what can I do about that?

SithSteve
05-08-2008, 08:56 PM
Either move the MPA-3 forward (away for the sear) or, you can grind some material off the sear arm.

rawbutter
05-09-2008, 10:24 AM
Either move the MPA-3 forward (away for the sear) or, you can grind some material off the sear arm.

If this was the problem, I think you would see it all the time, not just when you're firing fast. But it doesn't hurt to double-check If your sear touches the piston when it's at rest, that's a problem.

Other things to try are trigger stops and a return spring behind the MSV-2. That solved a lot of issues for me.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=225568

PanzerGen
05-09-2008, 10:32 AM
I have the magnet mod on their on and i'm going to see if I can't work it out... and I'm testing with paint. Their is a really, really small gap between the mpa-3 brass rim and the sear. The mpa-3 is angled down so it is farer away from the sear. I think what I am doing is not letting the mpa-3 piston come back enough to allow the gun to reset before I try to fire again.

longi
05-09-2008, 12:56 PM
If this was the problem, I think you would see it all the time, not just when you're firing fast. But it doesn't hurt to double-check If your sear touches the piston when it's at rest, that's a problem.

Other things to try are trigger stops and a return spring behind the MSV-2. That solved a lot of issues for me.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=225568

There is a spring return located on the back of the MSV-2. That's what the screw is for at the back! It will increase the tension somewhat. But it is best left as it is.

Also which on/off are you using? If your using the ULT swap it with an Emag or RT on/off. The difference in trigger pull weight is not really that noticeable.

You could also try varying the angle of the MSV-2, this may have an impact. If you can post some pictures it may help too.

How does the trigger feel when pulled? Is there any resistance when pulled repeatedly? If there is, round the end of the rod off into a dome. That way there is very little contact made between the rod and the rear of the trigger shoe.

If your already using trigger stops and they're already set to be as short as possible, it may be that your not showing the MSV-2 enough trigger. Wind them back out a little.

longi
05-09-2008, 01:05 PM
I have the magnet mod on their on and i'm going to see if I can't work it out... and I'm testing with paint. Their is a really, really small gap between the mpa-3 brass rim and the sear. The mpa-3 is angled down so it is farer away from the sear. I think what I am doing is not letting the mpa-3 piston come back enough to allow the gun to reset before I try to fire again.

Is the gap smaller that the one shown here?

http://www.putfile.com/pic/7565147

gunangel
05-09-2008, 07:57 PM
For me I found my piston was sitting to high in the frame and part of the sear would come into contact with the top of the piston during the on cycle (sear swings back).

Sorry for the semi-thread jack but for one of my mags I have a really hard time pulling the trigger with air. It seems almost as hard as if it was just with the ULT. Any help on that? (Being a genius :rolleyes: I epoxied the msv-2 to the back of my frame since I couldn't find a mounting point)

cyberave68
05-09-2008, 08:21 PM
Can you get us a good pic of your set up? We will be able to have a better understanding of how your gun set up and therfore give better advice. One thing i try to remember to tell people is to add a drop of lube in the "IN" port on the MSV-2. There is a small o-ring in there as well thats needs a bit of love every now and then....

PanzerGen
05-09-2008, 11:24 PM
Well, I actually got it working, but I'm going to post a picture anyways for anyone to comment. I actually got it work by massively decreasing the input pressure. I had set it way too high (had a block in a line that I did not know about). It shoots pretty decent now. I can walk it but I have to keep a large amount of slop or I misfire which might just be my sloppy triggering at work. Thanks for the tips though. If I notice any more problems, I will revisit this thread. You know, this forum really needs a pneumag tuning/problems guide. That's legal right? Even if the how-to guides are not allowed any more?

Here's the link
http://picasaweb.google.com/PanzerGenAO.ORG/Pneumag

PanzerGen
05-09-2008, 11:27 PM
Oh and what can I do about the low pressure air lines blowing off on gas up? They seem to like to do that more often then I would like....

gunangel
05-10-2008, 12:30 AM
I believe they're called top hats. Kapp Cocker kits come with a few, they are little metal pieces that are slid onto the tube and pushed over the barb. But usually if it blows off it means either the hose is worn or too much pressure is being used. I switched LPR's and that seemed to work (my lpr was running hot).

longi
05-10-2008, 10:05 AM
Well, I actually got it working, but I'm going to post a picture anyways for anyone to comment. I actually got it work by massively decreasing the input pressure. I had set it way too high (had a block in a line that I did not know about). It shoots pretty decent now. I can walk it but I have to keep a large amount of slop or I misfire which might just be my sloppy triggering at work. Thanks for the tips though. If I notice any more problems, I will revisit this thread. You know, this forum really needs a pneumag tuning/problems guide. That's legal right? Even if the how-to guides are not allowed any more?

Here's the link
http://picasaweb.google.com/PanzerGenAO.ORG/Pneumag

Is the rod connected to the back of the trigger shoe? Is it's not that could be one reason why it miss fires.

cyberave68
05-10-2008, 03:21 PM
Oh and what can I do about the low pressure air lines blowing off on gas up? They seem to like to do that more often then I would like....
Did you happen to get any lube/oil on the fittins? If so they will keep poping off. Clean the fittings and cut the tip off for a freash peice of tube...

PanzerGen
05-11-2008, 11:27 PM
The rod is connected to the trigger shoe and there is no gap between them. The way I have it set up right now makes it fire even when the safety is on. The Pull is that short right now. I have tiny bit of forward travel and extra rearward travel (need a suprising amount of it) to walk it. I assume that the travel is needed to give the trigger some bouncyness and prevent misstoking it when I walk it. I can walk it now with minimual misfiring. I do like however the way it misfires now. It just makes a noise and keeps shooting :cool: without chopping or stopping like it did before I made it a pneumag. That alone makes it worth the time/money. I think I just need to get used to it now... could someone give me the pull lengths for their pneumags so I might compare and see if I really need to work on it or not? Thanks :headbang:

longi
05-12-2008, 12:15 AM
My trigger pull is set to about 1-1.5mm on both my frames.

PanzerGen
05-13-2008, 12:32 PM
Sounds about right thanks guys :clap: