ult or rt on/off w/.750 pin .... for hyperframe

[paintball72]

im just about to finish my hypermag that i have been piecing together. the only thing i have left is an on/off for the valve. from what i have read there are 2 on/off setups that have been sucessful with the hyperframe. one is the ult on/off and the other ive read is to use a RT on/off with a .750 pin, quad o-ring, and the larger white o-ring instead of the ult and i am wondering which you guys would recomend to be more reliable and least likely to have the sear eat my bolt (chiping the edge so the sear cant catch) which i have read to be a problem with hyperframes.

thanks AO

[questionful]

I don't know anything about this. Just that if you want to prevent sear wear, get a hardened bolt (all L10's are hardened steel, I'm not sure if they make hardened L7's) and a carbide-tipped sear. And if that still causes problems, go with the ULT because you can time it. This way if you think the sear isn't catching enough, you just remove shims.

[athomas]

I would go with the ULT. It has less issues when using the hyper frame. The ULT will work in the classic valve when using the hyper frame because there is no chance of short stroking due to your finger holding pressure on the trigger during the on-off pin return.

BTW, all AGD bolts (level 7 and level 10) are made from the same stainless steel. All sears are hardened steel.

[paintball72]

ok i have just read about bolts being chewed up by the hyperframe. thank guys i guess ill go with the ult.

[michbich]

I would go with the ULT. It has less issues when using the hyper frame. The ULT will work in the classic valve when using the hyper frame because there is no chance of short stroking due to your finger holding pressure on the trigger during the on-off pin return.

BTW, all AGD bolts (level 7 and level 10) are made from the same stainless steel. All sears are hardened steel.

An ULT will work in any clasic valve used with the hyperframe?

[flyingpootang]

have a .750 in mine, but a ULT would be easier to tune...

[ajnin]

i have been using a hyperframe for about 8 months. i use a ult. it is perfect. never had a single issue. just slapped another hyper frame on a team mates mag, works fine, again ult.

just tune your mag with a mechanical frame first. get it very very bouncy wit ha light almost auto pull. take off the mech frame and put on the hyperframe. you should be good to go.

[athomas]

An ULT will work in any clasic valve used with the hyperframe?The ULT problems in classic valves arise from the human interaction with the trigger. You don't have those issues with the hyperframe.



paintball72: The bolts being chewed up have more to do with setting the dwell too low, or trying to use an on-off pin that is not the proper length.

[paintball72]

ok, does a classic valve need any modification to accept a ult. and im leaning to just getting tunaman to mill out my retro valve to accept the ult because that is the only valve i have atm and it would be cheaper than buying a whole new valve, but i have one question that i think is a yes but is better to be sure. can a valve that has been mill/drilled to accept a ult still use an rt on/off?

thanks guys

[athomas]

The classic doe not need any modification to accept the ULT. Only the old retro valves need to be milled. The new retro valves and all the X valves have on-off holes exactly the same as the classic valve. All the on-off assemblies will fit in all of the valves that have the solid bottoms the same as the X-valves and the classic valves.

So yes, your retro valve will accept the regular retro on-off assembly after it is milled out.

[flyingpootang]

paintball72: The bolts being chewed up have more to do with setting the dwell too low, or trying to use an on-off pin that is not the proper length.

athomas is correct. Too low of a dwell will not fully seat the sear against the bolt lip, too short of a on/off pin will not push the sear fully upward to seat against the bolt lip, and also a combination of both will also cause the bolt lip/sear being chewed up. To verify your sear is fully engaged remove the safety, air the marker up, fire a few times, use a allen key or similar device to push the sear leg forward. If it moves increase the dwell and/or increase the pin length.