Angel LED Adventure (will update as I go)

[phatty123]

Well I recieved 2 completely disassembled angel leds in a box. They were sent to me for the cost of shipping. I also recieved a battery and a broken led charger also at the cost of shipping from another person. I guess I was fortunate to meet very nice people that basically gave me these markers for free. Well I repaired the charger and put together the the LED that I thought was in the best shape. My knowledge on angels is limited so I sent it off to fixmyangel for some final repairs and a good tuning. Well it ends up a previous owner tried to remove the LPR with the improper tool and scartched the crud out of the lpr chamber.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a281/phatty123/SS853710.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a281/phatty123/SS853711.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a281/phatty123/SS853713.jpg

This prevented the lpr from sealing and the pressure would just continue to rise the longer it sat. Well they offered me two solutions hone out lpr tube, this could possibly work but it had no garuntees. The second option was to bore out and install a sleeve for the lpr. This was very expensive and to be honest a beat up free angel isnt worth it. So they did what they could and sent it back to me. (edit: it also had a destroyed LPR from the same improper tool use). So I opted to buy a used working lpr and brain storm on a way to fix the lpr chamber so it would seal.

Late at night I came up with this idea. Will it work? Who knows. It can't hurt to try though. First I made a tool out of a gun clenaing rod and a old angel led valve body.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a281/phatty123/SS853703.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a281/phatty123/SS853706.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a281/phatty123/SS853707.jpg




I JB welded the rod into the valve stem area on the valve body. This tool will be my "squeegy"


My theory is that if I put a new oring on the valve body and insert it into the lpr chamber and coat the walls infront of it with jb weld, that as I pull it back out it will squeegy all the jb weld off the smooth spots and fill in any scrathes. The excess will be pushed out the end. Since the scratches are rough I assume the jb weld will hold fiarly well. In the lpr nothing really moves so there isn't a whole lot of friction from movement. You just need a good seal around the one lpr oring and the one lpr piston oring. If I get that the angel will be good to go. The JB weld I am using cures in 12 hours so I am still waiting for my tool to dry. Then I will perform the procedure and let you guys know.


-barry

[pmstc]

Seems kind of risky... have you thought about sizing up your orings and lubing the hell out of them?

[phatty123]

Yes and I don't know if that would work and I don't see any risk in what I am doing :)


-barry

[pmstc]

Yes and I don't know if that would work and I don't see any risk in what I am doing :)


-barry
Well, the risk would be that JB weld dries somewhere you don't want it to dry... on some threads, in a hole, or that it dries so that it's obstructing the LPR body and you can't get it in there at all anymore..
but it's not a BAD idea, I just think maybe trying different orings would be more reversible :p

[questionful]

The JB thing sounds crazy, good luck. If that doesn't work, you could always try shimming up the O-ring grooves and getting bigger O-rings. Maybe a lower durometer?

[phatty123]

Well the deed is done and all holes and threads affected were cleaned. I can't see any real difference, but they are small scratches so they might be filled in. I will look at it in the light. Hopefully my lpr will arrive tomorrow and I can test it.


-barry

[EclipseClassic]

I don't think those scratchs are causing the problem. I would avoid putting Jb weld into that chamber. Its not a filler. You would be better off using filler and sanding than putting that stuff in there. I would try something else.

[phatty123]

Didn't I say i already did it? Fixmyangel worked on this specific problem for 4 days alone. I trust their conclusion. What else would caust the lpr pressure to slowly build?


-barry

[phatty123]

At any rate me and my father did this same trick to a severly pitted gas tube on a yugo sks. Witch I believe has about 40,000+ psi is flowing through it and it also has a moving part and alot of heat present and JB weld fixed that issue. This application is running at what 60 - 80psi? No heat and no moving parts. It should work better even.
-barry

[hardr0ck68]

the gas tube on a rifle does not have to seal so well as it just needs to get enough gas pressure back to send that bolt back...

however on your angel you need to reliably hold that gas in place till its time to move. I would take it to a local machine shop and see if they can bore her and make that sleeve for you...

The hone would also be a great solution, I am sure if it was done fairly well you could get away with just a few thou increase in size, production tolerances and o-ring differences would account for less than that.

[punkncat]

Since you have already done it other suggestions are "mute" now.

I wanted to make sure that you thought to clear the jb weld from the air port that sends the supply to the solenoid? And also how did you keep the stuff out of the threads for the end cap?

All in all not a bad idea if it comes out as smooth as the theory. My concern is that along with the scrapes there will be ridges. I would have considered using something like a brake hone with a bit of water, but more than likely that would have brought it outside its tolerance.

All in all if this works at all, and given that it is a free marker it will have turned out to be a pretty good trick.

I dunno if your battery is still working....I have a 6v battery here in unk condition if you need it. Chances are pretty good that it doesn't work though.

[phatty123]

Since you have already done it other suggestions are "mute" now.

I wanted to make sure that you thought to clear the jb weld from the air port that sends the supply to the solenoid? And also how did you keep the stuff out of the threads for the end cap?

All in all not a bad idea if it comes out as smooth as the theory. My concern is that along with the scrapes there will be ridges. I would have considered using something like a brake hone with a bit of water, but more than likely that would have brought it outside its tolerance.

All in all if this works at all, and given that it is a free marker it will have turned out to be a pretty good trick.

I dunno if your battery is still working....I have a 6v battery here in unk condition if you need it. Chances are pretty good that it doesn't work though.


The second after a pulled it through I picked clean then used a q tip on the air passages. Then I used a cotton ball with heavy pressure to chase the wet jb weld out of the threads.

-barry