On/off problem

[SchoolU101]

I've been having this problem for ages. When I first air the gun up it seems to work fine. If I leave the gun alone for awhile with out shooting, it will not fire when I try to shoot. If I unscrew the air tank and screw it back in, then it works again. The problem gets progressively worse over time until the point where the unscrew/ re-screw the tank trick ceases to work.

In the early stages, I can get it to shoot if I pump the trigger for a while (don't have to unscrew the tank).

I can tell you for certain that the problem is NOT bolt stick. Seems to me that there is a slow leak some where in the gun, but I have replaced all of my o-rings to no avail. The on/off also seems to be a little sticky (no matter how much I oil it). Any ideas?

[Bagheera]

I was having the EXACT same problem (fires fine when you screw the tank in the first time, and each time you re-attach the tank.) I was advised to shim the on/off valve, and it worked like a dream. Check out the details in this thread (even though the thread title is misleading.)

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2546808#post2546808

[athomas]

What is your setup? Give us all specs and parts used including body, grip frame, and valve type.

[SchoolU101]

X-Valve with RT on/off (same problem w/ ULT on/off).
ULE Body
RPG Splinter Rail
RPG Chimera Frame

Thanks for the shim tip, I'll give that a shot.

[RogueFactor]

I read your prior post on this subject, and that you could push the bolt back to reset it. The responses suggested removing shims.

Please humor me and do me a favor, put as many Level 10 shims as possible in until it leaks. Even if it is 4 or more. And then remove one shim. E-mail me at rogue@roguesportz.com and let me know the results.

[SchoolU101]

yeah Bagheera I think that is the problem.

I used to have a ULT in there. I shimmed the heck out of it but it didn't really solve the problem, although it seemed to get better. Interestingly, if you have too many shims in a ULT it should make the marker fully automatic. However, no matter how many shims I put in this was never the case. After a certain point the bottom of the on/off protrudes from the bottom of the valve so much that it will no longer fit in the rail.

The problem was solved temporarily when I switced to the RT on/off. Everything worked perfectly for several games and I thought I would never see the problem again. But I was wrong.

Really, I think the problem is cause by two things; An On/off that is too long AND too much friction on the on/off pin. This may be a stretch but I think I may have caused the problem by over oiling the gun. At first I thought "if it sticks, oil it". But now I believe that over oiling the gun has caused my o-rings to swell (just slightly but that's all it takes). So word to the wise, there is such a thing as too much oil.

[SchoolU101]

Hey Rogue,

Well I don't have the air right now, but when I fine tuned my lvl 10 I used the purple spring to be easy on the paint, I put 4 shims in the lvl 10 (leaked), 3 shims (leaked), 2.5 (ult shim, leaked), 2 (no leak). Then I put an o-ring in a large carrier (leaked), half step down (leaked) half step down (no leak). So, current setup is long spring, size 2 carrier, 2 shims.

Back in the day when I could re-set it with my finger, I solved the problem by going to a larger carrier.

I'll email as requested.

[athomas]

Use the retro on-off assembly for now. Remove all shims from the level 10. Put a new bolt spring in place. Use a new white carrier oring. Retune using the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Make sure your rail bushing is in place.