Torque Hopper Mod – Stop that annoying constant spin and noise!

[insixdays777]

I bought the torque because I love the size, weight and simplicity. I HATED the constant spin and noise…almost put it back into my bottomless misc. parts box and went back to my halo…got board one night a managed to turn my torque into a SILENT speed demon (I think like a pulse, never had a pulse not 100% sure how it works).

Mod is fully reversible. no electronic soldering required! Reverse anti jam button still functions! Many cases chop and jam free!

**Only attempt this mod if you use a QUALITY rechargeable battery pack such as the Bone pack. Running a standard 9v and this mod just does not work. Battery life with a standard 9v only last about 1 hour. (Thanks for testing this guys!)
However, I have no issues playing all day using my Bone pack rechargeable.


Here is my how to videos-

Drop test and Demo with Mod'ed Torque:


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Do It yourself video:

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MAGNET PLACEMENT MAP:

Works for me...cant guarantee it will work for you...just keep playing with it!

Mark you magnets with a sharpie to keep the sides straight. (Great Idea WK2!)

Drive cone bottom( the one with paddles) Alternating + and -

http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/2640/img0748fb8.th.jpg (http://img359.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0748fb8.jpg)


Top of the drive cone. All positive.

http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/7861/img0749gy4.th.jpg (http://img253.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0749gy4.jpg)


Q: WILL THIS BURN OUT MY MOTOR??


A: NO!, How it works/question discussing the loader

Max current draw with a full battery if you stop the motor shaft would be 600 mah. But, with the slip drive, the feed paddle stops but the shaft of the gear drive is allowed to spin because of the magnetic field friction slip drive system. The current draw during slippage is 300 mah. In either slip or constant stop, neither draws enough current to damage the motor. When the power of the battery drops below it's ability to continue to slip, the motor will stop, but will be pulling less than 300 mah of current, which will not hurt the motor. The only reason for the slip drive is to decrease the amount of current draw when the marker is not being fired, thus improving battery life.(Taken from PBN from the Torque FAQ about how the loader works)

Ajnin pointed out that this makes the motor get warm...

Thanks for pointing this out ajnin...I tested this also, just like you said...it does get warm...Not sure if this hurts in anyway...I am posting this in the main thread....just as a caution.

All I can point to is my personal experience...I have played in 100 degree heat all day...many cases...my motor still functions like new. I am going to rock this mod till my motor dies...so far so good.

Fellow mod'ers just know the motor does get hot, but I have found no loss in motor functionally or breakage issues. Mod at you own risk! :cheers:

[WickedKlown2]

insixdays777,,,

Can you please PM me what you did to yours to make it work like that and be so quiet ???

I have a Loudmouth Torque with the basic 150 motor and removed 7 sets of the magnets and it is still makes the "Rollercoaster Going Uphill" clack, clack, clack noise !!! :mad:

Any help would be appreciated...

Very Nice Vid. by the way ... :)

Thanks Bro.

WK2

[insixdays777]

My how to video is still uploading...hold tight...

1) Did you remove the white plastic/paper washers?

2) Remove the 2 small clutch catch pins (the TINY ones that fit in the top of the drive cone)

3) you have to rearange the magnets so both the bottom paddle part and the top spin part of the drive cone stick/attract together.

Happy to answer any questions here... :cheers:

[WickedKlown2]

My how to video is still uploading...hold tight... Wilco, sorry to jump the gun

1) Did you remove the white plastic/paper washers? no, I left them in place between the upper and lower parts

2) Remove the 2 small clutch catch pins (the TINY ones that fit in the top of the drive cone) Pins removed back in May along with 7 sets of magnets and rearanged

3) you have to rearange the magnets so both the bottom paddle art and the top spin part of the drive cone stick/attract together. I tried to make a star pattern out of the remaining magnets (maybe I didn't take enough sets out)

Happy to answer any questions here... :cheers:

insixdays777,

All of my answers are in red... I first saw a mod like this over on the Spec Ops forums back in May and decided to give it a try... Only thing that mod did was go really gentle on brittle paint, but was still making the clacking noise of the magnets breaking and coming back together...

Thank You for answering so fast Bro. ... :clap:

WK2

[insixdays777]

Take out those plastic washers out and put back in all those magnets ;) If you tube would ever upload I could show you !

[txrabbit]

wow, that's nice. i've had mine almost since they got released, and have had no issues. no noise, nothing. quiet as all get out. i do know that if you're drive is "clacking", you've got a bad one. had one go through my store.

[cioeboy]

Wow definitely trying this on my next rainy day. I love my torque, but the sound of that motor running does make me want to punt it across the field sometimes. Thanks. :cheers:

[Enemy]

this is just speculation but wouldnt taking away the slip action work to cause the motor to burn out?? The magna drive and Halo Bs are all designed to allow the motor to turn while the clutch pack slips and the purpose of that was to prevent the motor from overheating and burning up.

[insixdays777]

this is just speculation but wouldnt taking away the slip action work to cause the motor to burn out?? The magna drive and Halo Bs are all designed to allow the motor to turn while the clutch pack slips and the purpose of that was to prevent the motor from overheating and burning up.

I though so also..but the motor is designed to do this...the stock configuration does this when you push the anti jam reverse button(that is how I got this idea) ...I have ran many cases through this mod...I have been running this mod for many months now with no issues...I even run a Bone Battery pack...so I know it is getting all the juice it can handle.

[Enemy]

I though so also..but the motor is designed to do this...the stock configuration does this when you push the anti jam reverse button(that is how I got this idea) ...I have ran many cases through this mod...I have been running this mod for many months now with no issues...I even run a Bone Battery pack...so I know it is getting all the juice it can handle.

wow then nice work.

[ajnin]

You sir are a scholar and a gentleman.

Thank you very much from a Torque sponsored team. I have mine modded to run of a Hyperframe but I am going to give this a try to sure, it would be nice to remove a wire.

[WickedKlown2]

insixdays777,,,

Since I last wrote to you I have found a solution that works for mine...

I told You that I marked all the weak side(-) of all magnets with a Black Sharpie Marker in the Lower Drive Cone (*DON'T MESS WITH THE UPPER DRIVE CONE SIDE MAGNETS*)... If you take 3 of the magnets and face the weak side(-) up in a triangle pattern,,, and all the rest of the magnets with the black side facing down (silver side up(+)) you get the desired effect...

The pattern for the Lower Drive Cone should go 3 silver(+) magnets facing up - 1 black(-) magnet facing up - 4 silver(+) magnets facing up - 1 black(-) magnet facing up - 4 silver(+) magnets facing up ,,, You should see the triangle pattern of black magnets you will get the correct pattern for this mod...

Hince my Loudmouth Torque is acting exactly like your Regular Torque...

Thanks for taking the time to help me out... I hope my Idea of marking all the weak sides(-) with a Black Sharpie Marker helps you explain to others what they should be looking for...

Take it easy Bro. !!! :clap:

WK2

[ajnin]

So thinking about this, why not put a screw threw both drive cones and stop worrying about the magnet placement? If the desired effect is both cones to spin together, wouldn't binding them be easiest?

[Brewtt]

So thinking about this, why not put a screw threw both drive cones and stop worrying about the magnet placement? If the desired effect is both cones to spin together, wouldn't binding them be easiest?

This is what I was actually thinking while watching the vid. He wanted both the tray and the paddle thingies to be stuck together... defeating the "Slip-drive" action. I'd think super glue would work just fine... no?

(Non-reversible version.... obviously)

[insixdays777]

This is what I was actually thinking while watching the vid. He wanted both the tray and the paddle thingies to be stuck together... defeating the "Slip-drive" action. I'd think super glue would work just fine... no?

(Non-reversible version.... obviously)



1) A great feature of the drive cone is the free spinning drive cone top, this allows the pressue from the balls on top of the drive cone(when hopper is full) to not effect the speed of the drive cone when it spins

2) the screws threw the top would kill this helpful feature.

3) I guess if you gota go ghetto... break out the crazy glue! :tard:

[Brewtt]

1) A great feature of the drive cone is the free spinning drive cone top, this allows the pressue from the balls on top of the drive cone(when hopper is full) to not effect the speed of the drive cone when it spins

2) the screws threw the top would kill this helpful feature.

3) I guess if you gota go ghetto... break out the crazy glue! :tard:


Ha ha ha... I'm not going to glue it. Was just verifying that it was the same as simply stopping the magnets slipping around. Yeah... wouldn't want a screw through the TOP of the cone... gotta let that sucker spin free.

Thanks for the mod and the insight! :)

[ajnin]

Exactallly not the top, but the spinny part of the top and then the bottom. Oh hell I have a few torques lying around i will give it a shot... maybe even make a magnet sized pin to stick into two magnet slots after you remove the magnets... hrm... no holes that way.

[insixdays777]

... maybe even make a magnet sized pin to stick into two magnet slots after you remove the magnets... hrm... no holes that way.

AWESOME IDEA! Let us know if you have any luck! :cheers:

[WickedKlown2]

Exactallly not the top, but the spinny part of the top and then the bottom. Oh hell I have a few torques lying around i will give it a shot... maybe even make a magnet sized pin to stick into two magnet slots after you remove the magnets... hrm... no holes that way.


After playing around with my Torque last night I realized what else the magnets do... The Upper Drive Cone is attached to the drive shaft directly and the Bottom Drive Cone spins freely around the drive shaft held up off the feed tray floor by the magnets that are holding the 2 sections together... If you remove the magnets from between the 2 sections then you have the Bottom Drive Cone dragging on the feed tray floor and may cause some problems along with unwanted noise from said drag... Food for thought...

WK2

[Brewtt]

Awesome... I got mine to work right. Had to be a little more creative with the magnet pattern than suggested because I kept getting the "clacking."

Messed with the magnets for a bit and found a pattern that worked in my loader. Just did a successful drop test. Quiet while idle and "Full Torque" while dropping balls! :D

Maybe I won't have to murder my Torque for being noisy. :cheers:

[ajnin]

So, the motor gets pretty hot in a matter of minutes. Any one else notice this?

[insixdays777]

So, the motor gets pretty hot in a matter of minutes. Any one else notice this?

I have not noticed this...what motor do you have 440 of 150?

[ajnin]

150. Turn your torque on without the shell.. sit in front of your tv with your finger stopping the paddle. Wait about 5 mins... put your finger on it. hot.

[insixdays777]

Thanks for pointing this out ajnin...I tested this also, just like you said...it does get warm...Not sure if this hurts in anyway...I am posting this in the main thread....just as a caution.

All I can point to is my personal experience...I have played in 100 degree heat all day...many cases...my motor still functions like new. I am going to rock this mod till my motor dies...so far so good.

Fellow mod'ers just know the motor does get hot, but I have found no loss in motor functionally or breakage issues. Mod at you own risk! :cheers:

[BigEvil]

I dont know how I did it, but somehow I managed to quiet mine down without flipping the magnets. I tightened that screw holding the top and bottom together and it magically runs better now. Go figure. I get some clacking when I dump a pod it but it stops quickly.

[ajnin]

I too am going to rock it all day tomorrow and see how it works out.

[insixdays777]

awesome...please report back. Thanks!

[WickedKlown2]

I think I am going to try a old computer modding trick and place ram heatsinks around the motor and see if it help with the motor heat problem...

Here is a Link if anybody else wants to give it a try : Zalman Heatsinks (http://www.coolerguys.com/840556016526.html) ... They only cost $9.95 and should be a easy trim to fit application...

WK2

[ajnin]

the deal with heatsinks of course is getting a nice surface to surface seal. Put thats a good idea... i think i have some round ish heat sinks that might work and some heatsink paste... might be the solution.

Do you by chance have a surface thermonitor?

[WickedKlown2]

the deal with heatsinks of course is getting a nice surface to surface seal. Put thats a good idea... i think i have some round ish heat sinks that might work and some heatsink paste... might be the solution.

Do you by chance have a surface thermonitor?


I have a handheld surface temp guage at work... I will have to do this Monday...

I was thinking on the lines of some Artic Silver for making the contact between the motor and heatsinks... I would have to take the lable off the motor first for a good application,,, and then some micro tie straps to hold it all in place...

WK2

[insixdays777]

WK2 and AJ this rocks so hardcore...pure mod'er heart! Lets knock out this heat issue. :hail:

[Brewtt]

I just fill my Torque with ice cubes and ROCK! :headbang:

Heh... I'll be testing out my modded Torque with ajnin today also. I'll try a fresh battery too.

Yesterday:

150 motor, one (used) 9v.

I turned mine on and left it for ten minutes while stopped up. Git a bit warm... almost "hot." Left it for another ten minutes and it really drained my battery.

Left it off for a few minutes and the battery refreshed a bit. Hmmmm...

[Brewtt]

Well... unfortunately I have to say this mod has less than desirable performance in the battery area. I put in a brand new Duracell 9 volt today and it was DEAD within an hour or so of play time. The hopper performed great while playing but the battery life was sucked down by heating up that motor the whole time it's on and not spinning.

Big bummer. I had high hopes.

Not a good mod for the rec or scenario player who stays on the field for extended times. I'm sure it's fine for the tourney player who plays for a few minutes at a time and turns it right off but it just can't be left on for long without annihilating the battery.

Oh well... the whole idea sounded a little too good to be true. It was. :(

[ajnin]

It made me very sad.

[insixdays777]

Good to know on the standard 9v test...stay away.

Well I guess its a testament to the Bone Pack rechargeable battery. I can play all day with no issues. 30 min long "city" games as well. I do turn the hopper off between games.

[BigEvil]

Like I said, I dont know how I did it, but mine was not making noise. BUT, the batteries wouldnt last a case of paint. :mad:

[BigEvil]

This thing is getting seriously close to meeting my sledgehammer.

So, ive been tinkering with the magnet set up to try and get it to stop the infernal clacking noise. I tried the above mentioned set up, only to have the batteries crap out after about a 1/2 case of paint. Which, btw is totally unacceptable.

I want the stupid thing to work right, even if I have to live with some of that damn noise. First I wanted to see what exactly in the clutch makes it. I wasnt sure if it was the noise of the magnets or if it was those little pins that are used for the reverse drive. Well, its the magnets. I went about trying different configurations in both sides of the clutch assembly to no avail.

Next, I decided to try a different route. Using 20 thou. sheet plastic, I made 3 new shims to go between the halves of the clutch using the 2 wax paper ones as a template.


I put my 3 in sandwiched between the originals. My results were very promising. Very little noise, if any at all when I held the drive cone. I anxiously put the damn thing back together, dumped a pod in, turned it on.... and watched my loader feed balls back into the pod at about 2 bps. DAMN. The shims weakened the magnetic power of the clutch way to much for the loader to work effectively.

Next, I took 2 of my shims out, leaving a total of 3 in. Put is back together, and NOTHING. WTF? Then I realized I forgot to put the raceway back in :confused: :tard: Turns out that there is room under the drive assembly for about 30 balls :rofl: Put it back together correctly this time, and was still less than impressed.

My conclusion is, that in order to work properly, there probably is no way to eliminate the clacking noise.

Now I wish that someone would make it so I can put my Halo guts inside that shell.

[insixdays777]

BigEvil what battery are you using?

I would it also love to put my halo internals inside as well...I love the size/weight of the torque...but the noise is an issue. My mod it a battery hog no doubt...I would love to find away to stop the noise and keep the battery life!

I am still playing around with mine....hopefully someone will stumble on some thing cool. keep us posted if you make a break through! :cheers:

[BigEvil]

BigEvil what battery are you using?

I would it also love to put my halo internals inside as well...I love the size/weight of the torque...but the noise is an issue. My mod it a battery hog no doubt...I would love to find away to stop the noise and keep the battery life!

I am still playing around with mine....hopefully someone will stumble on some thing cool. keep us posted if you make a break through! :cheers:

Well, ive had to change the batteries OFTEN, and I use either Duracells or Energizers.

Hey, im thinking, if its the magnets clacking around that is making the noise, what would happen if I epoxied them into place so they dont come out? The more im thinking about it, my loader DID NOT make any noise until after I used it a couple of times. Now the magents can come out of their holes fairly easily.

What do you think?

[insixdays777]

a) My modded torque is useable with the Bone batt pack. I can play all day, and I shoot about a case. It is hot here, so winter/cold weather testing is a few months away. Cold always cuts battery life. We will see if the Bone can take the winter in a few months.

b) I personally would not superglue the magnets. I think the clacking it partly due to the lack of strong tolerances on the drive cone. I would bet even the slightest drop/layer of superglue misplaced on the face of the drive cone would only make the clacking worse.

c) I have been working on a drive cone design. High tolerance aluminum, ball bearings and only a few magnets...but I have now way to make it, just ideas...should make it silent and alot smoother. The torque design has alot of potential.

[BigEvil]

Well, on the advice of another player.. apparently the 'agg' thing to do with the torque is to slather the magnets with dow33 to kill the noise. I tried it, and it worked pretty well. (And its reversible)

[insixdays777]

Roger. I shall grease those magents! Thanks for the tip!

[BigEvil]

Roger. I shall grease those magents! Thanks for the tip!

After messing with this for an hour or so, Ive noticed that the loader feeds a little slugishly when its starts. I need to try fresh batteries, but Im pretty sure that its the dow causing it. I may just bite the bullet, clean it up, and crazy glue the magnets in.

[BigEvil]

So you want your Torque to work and NOT make noise? I figured it out.






Are you ready for this??























wait for it





























wait for it.....













TAKE BOTH OF THE PLASTIC SHIMS OUT!!!. Leave every thing else the way its supposed to be. http://www.bigevilonline.com/images/smilies/banghead.gif