Look what I made.

[atech2]

May have been done before, but some of you might appreciate this.
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/206/pict0006vo8.jpg
Anybody care to summize it's intended purpose.

[questionful]

A spacer for a classic RT?

[atech2]

I guess that was to easy :clap:

[questionful]

You had me seriously confused for a second. Looked like a 1 round springfeed at first lol. I guess it helps I have a classic RT myself. ;)

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z304/Qful/img_0824.jpg

[atech2]

Ya, I plan to fit mine with all the latest and greatest upgrades. Partly to show that it can be done, mostly cause my wife won't let me spend the money for a current model.

[Chris Nearchos]

very nice. now lets see some pictures of it on the moddified setup.

-Chris

[questionful]

If your rail is one of the ones that didn't have all of the air ports connected, you could even do some cosmetic and ULE milling to the back of the rail. Are you going to shorten the front and add a normal foregrip too?

[warbeak2099]

It'd be cool to shorten the front and mount the foregrip directly to the rail. IMO the RT foregrip is the coolest looking one available.

[atech2]

The rail can be milled to lighten, but not much can be done in the back. I do plan on mounting the grip directly, but one thing at a time. I still need to do some detail work on the spacer to get it to fit the way I want, doing it buy hand takes time. I also need to find a body I can afford.
http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/1350/rtvalvezz7.jpg
http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/8168/rtvalve1ii2.jpg
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/8920/pict0012bk9.jpg

[splashkitsrock420]

so does this part make the ule body usable on the rt?


im dumb help me out..:)

[atech2]

That"s the plan.

[splashkitsrock420]

pls keep me posted on this thread im lookin to do this to my RT also.....

ide love to hear if it work out on the marker:)

[splashkitsrock420]

any updates?>

[atech2]

Doing things by hand take time, I have found a body so should have something in another week.

[splashkitsrock420]

sweet let me know if this works out .....i so need to do this to my rt hell i might even keep the thing if i can get a ule body on it




Doing things by hand take time, I have found a body so should have something in another week.

[BiNumber3]

Would the spacer be the same as if u were to just cut the back portion u need from a classic rt body?

[atech2]

I would think that would work, but the RT body being specific, I wouldn't want to destroy it potentionaly srewing it up to be un-useable.

[atech2]

Quick update.
I have a ULE body that I have tried to fit, but the front frame screw hole seems to be about .050 off of where I think it needs to be. I have a few things to measure and check, but apparently AGD changed some specs that has never been addressed. If someone wants to volunteer to take some measurements on a standard mag rail, maybe we can figure out where they changed things. I will finish this project, but want it to be right.

[splashkitsrock420]

ide love to help but i dont own a set of mics.

[atech2]

Thanks busby, very helpful. I was able to pick up an RT Pro today, so now I can take my own measurements. The front frame screw hole is about .038" off. This will be a require a minor modification to the rail to correctly space the bolt in the body. This may not sound like much, but could cause feeding proplems. Would welcome anyones thoughts on this, unfortunatly taking a picture of .038" may be out of the question.

[splashkitsrock420]

hows things going on the project:)

[Spider-TW]

The front frame screw hole is about .038" off.
Which direction?

[Hilltop Customs]

I thought classic rt and rtpro grip frames were interchangeable other than having to drill out the hole for the banjo bolt?(or the other way around add a bushing to use an classic rt frame on a rt pro) If they are interchangeable that should mean the hole center to center spacing should be the same :confused:

[atech2]

I thought that myself. The front frame screw hole is definatly spaced farther back on my RT Classic rail that on my RT Pro rail. I will take some accuate measurments and post them this weekend.

[snoopay700]

It'd be cool to shorten the front and mount the foregrip directly to the rail. IMO the RT foregrip is the coolest looking one available.
Hell yeah it is, that's one of the many reasons i got one.

I'm hopefully going to draw one of these up in solidworks and then get it made out of aluminum so i can anno it to match the body i get, also i'm going to make it slanted back like the original, i've been thinking about this for some time actually, and i want to make my classic rt look better.

[atech2]

Maybe I have confused some of you. The grip frame holes, front and rear, are the same center to center, twist lock to sear is the same center to center, but the relation to each other is a few 10ths of an inch different.

The reason grip frames are somewhat interchangeable, is the hole for the twist lock on the trigger frame is larger enough to compansate for this difference.

Before you all ask why I would be concerned with the twist lock hole since it's not used with a ULE. I am more concerned with the sear and feed location, but the twist lock is directly propotional to those locations. The grip frame ties it all together so they must all be correct for proper operation.

[Chris Nearchos]

so let me get this straight. you have the front hole off by .038". now is that forward or backwards?

either way what i would sugeest would work for moving it.


I would suggest milling a slot in that section of the rail (dont know if their is any problems with the air line there).....but from there mill a piece of aluminum to fit into that slot [with the same thickness as the rail]. from there all you need to do is mark and tap the hole in the correct location.


-Chris

[atech2]

Both the front and rear frame holes are spaced back farther with relation to the twist lock and sear. I plan on modifing the rail in a way similiar than you suggested Chris, but this would also mean modifing the grip frame to. We are talking .050 of an inch so not to difficult to do.

[Hilltop Customs]

wont this also cause some huge problems with the lvl 10? I mean if the rear frame screw is spaced back away from the sear pivot point, it means the valve is moved back and the bolt(since it is caught by the sear) is farther forward compared to the valve.

[snoopay700]

wont this also cause some huge problems with the lvl 10? I mean if the rear frame screw is spaced back away from the sear pivot point, it means the valve is moved back and the bolt(since it is caught by the sear) is farther forward compared to the valve.
Nope, he's gotta leave the hole fore the banjo bolt alone otherwise the marker won't work.

[atech2]

The rear frame screw needs to be left alone for air passage and sear alignment. The front frame screw location needs to be modified for proper body alignment. I will try to draw something up to better illustrate this, but never done any CAD. In my day we used a pencil and straight edge. If anyone is good with this kind of thing, and understands the concept, your help would be appreciated.

[atech2]

Pretty crude, I know.
http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/8823/raildifwy7.png

Or does this just make it more confusing?

[Hilltop Customs]

nope thats good

what I meant by my last post was not milling out the rear screw hole.....I meant this would cause problems with switching valves because of the extra space between the rear frame screw and the sear.(unless this difference is accounted for in the hole placing on the valve or sear)

that is weird though, I thought they were the same

edit: IDK how I got onto the idea of changing valves since it has nothing to do with this thread....just popped in my head.

[snoopay700]

That seems like a fairly simple fix though, i mean it is a minuscule difference that shouldn't be too hard to correct.

[atech2]

I have a couple of ideas, but want it to be perfect. I could do it by hand, but think I will machine it so it looks good also.

[luke]

Would you guys like me to look into making and stocking this part? If so, I would need to borrow a valve for a few weeks. Also, are you guys looking to use the RT valve with a NON RT rail?

If I'm stepping on any toes, I'll back off. No problem.

LMK

[atech2]

That's funny luke, I was thinking of sending you some machine work. Sending you a PM

[snoopay700]

Would you guys like me to look into making and stocking this part? If so, I would need to borrow a valve for a few weeks. Also, are you guys looking to use the RT valve with a NON RT rail?

If I'm stepping on any toes, I'll back off. No problem.

LMK
That'd be cool, something lighter, cause i don't wanna touch my stock rail.

[Watcher]

Would you guys like me to look into making and stocking this part? If so, I would need to borrow a valve for a few weeks. Also, are you guys looking to use the RT valve with a NON RT rail?



I'd buy one, if indeed it did work successfully in allowing a ULE body to fit on an AutomagRT.

That'd mean I wouldn't have to search for another 'mag to use primarily for the warp and using the RT only when I feel old school, I could just upgrade the one I have :clap:

From the looks of it I guess all you need to do is get the "sleeve" and drill a slot into the rail and grip-frame to move the screw forward...
Unless the valve and bolt had some crazy tolerance issue with the ULE body, but the valve is essentially the same as the others in dimentions, just the reg is thinner, right?


Idk if using an RT valve on a non RT rail would be possible... you'd have to mill the rail and replace the field strip screw with an air-fitting, I think.

[atech2]

Would be difficult to route the air on a non RT Classic rail. Not impossible, but modding would take alot of work, plus the banjo bolt orings need to seal in the rail.

[questionful]

Would be difficult to route the air on a non RT Classic rail. Not impossible, but modding would take alot of work, plus the banjo bolt orings need to seal in the rail.
I would think it's just a matter of drilling three holes, and tapping one of them.

[Watcher]

Any progress? Does it work? Does it not?

I still really want to ULE my RT Classic but I neither have the machine skill or the spare mainbody to try it...

[splashkitsrock420]

ide love to know too....i really want to ule body my rt also........and im willing to pay for it to be done ......

[snoopay700]

Any news yet?

[atech2]

Been very busy. I want to get back to this project, but haven't had the time. I will surely let you all know one I get any time to work on this.

[splashkitsrock420]

I REALLY WANT THIS PART MADE $ ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ACK lol

[atech2]

For those that are interested in this mod, I have finally gotten back to working on it. I am working on drawings and set up some time to mill the prototype rail. I have tried to make this mod reversable, but have determined it would make servicing and assembly a nightmare. I don't plan on going back to stock, but those that do should see about finding another rail to use. Once the drawings are complete, I will ask someone if they would like to produce it, since some machinists have showed interest in doing so.

Since the rail needs to be done to really make this work, look for a new thread in the future with a working prototype rail. I want to make this work before sharing anymore. ;)

[splashkitsrock420]

did ya get this thing to work?

[splashkitsrock420]

any news on this part?

[atech2]

Look for a new thread after the first of the year. Not working on anything until after the holidays.

[splashkitsrock420]

anyhting new on this?

[afortuna]

anyhting new on this?

I'm sorry that you didn't get the message. Atech joined a group of lemmings near Niagra. No barrels were available.

[splashkitsrock420]

i know this sounds serious.....but whts that post ^^^^^^ up there about......im dumb

[atech2]

Unsuccesful attempts at jokes I imagine.

I have been trying to get a budget old school setup for my boy to get in the game, something he can't short stroke without batteries, but still have a peice I wouldn't mind having in the collection. Since I can do this on my own time, I have been occupied with that lately, (splashkitsrock420 knows what I'm looking for).

This project is still in the works, but back door machine work takes careful time management and planning to not get caught, and possibly worse, fired. :eek:
Plans have been worked out, drawing are getting tweeked, and machines are waiting. My company has had a large backlog, preventing time to use their resources. :ninja:

I would like proof of my concept before posting anything more, but feel free to PM me for information on this project.

[afortuna]

Poor sense of humor mainly. Atech followed the lemmings over the cliff (Niagra Falls) and there was no barrel to save him. Mainly, Atech hadn't been heard from on this thread for almost 2 months and most likely was busy.

Reading his post today, he has been busy.

[splashkitsrock420]

anyone wanna take this project to tyhe next level ...god i wanna shoot my rt again........