ULT Trouble

[DamianTC]

I just got my order in from AGD.. X-Valve w/ Lvl10 and ULT trigger pull kit.

I setup the X-Valve and Lvl10 bolt. Ended up using 2 shims and the smallest spring. It shoots perfectly. I went through about 200 balls, not one problem.

Then I went to setting up the ULT. First I used 2 shims. When I started to shoot, it seemed fine but after about 5 or 6 shots of shooting fast, it would chuff a shot and a ball would pop out the barrel maybe 15 feet. The bolt would take maybe 2 seconds to recharge after then I would feel the trigger click back in place. From the directions with the kit, the closest thing I could make of this was some type of shootdown. So I did what the directions said and added another shim (now has 3). Testing this, I was getting full auto and double firing. The directions exactly say if getting full auto and double firing to remove a shim. So now I got 2 shims in again. Not sure what the problem could be. I know its related to the ULT because I put the X-Valve's on/off back it and its fine. Any suggestions?

Thanks

[secretweaponevan]

I just got my order in from AGD.. X-Valve w/ Lvl10 and ULT trigger pull kit.

I setup the X-Valve and Lvl10 bolt. Ended up using 2 shims and the smallest spring. It shoots perfectly. I went through about 200 balls, not one problem.

Then I went to setting up the ULT. First I used 2 shims. When I started to shoot, it seemed fine but after about 5 or 6 shots of shooting fast, it would chuff a shot and a ball would pop out the barrel maybe 15 feet. The bolt would take maybe 2 seconds to recharge after then I would feel the trigger click back in place. From the directions with the kit, the closest thing I could make of this was some type of shootdown. So I did what the directions said and added another shim (now has 3). Testing this, I was getting full auto and double firing. The directions exactly say if getting full auto and double firing to remove a shim. So now I got 2 shims in again. Not sure what the problem could be. I know its related to the ULT because I put the X-Valve's on/off back it and its fine. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Sounds like bolt stick. Break it in with 800 or so more shots before installing the ULT.

Bolt stick is not enough oil, too tight a carrier, or both.

[Dend78]

or check your frame screws make sure one isnt super tight and the other not so much, this has been known to cause many a maggots trouble and its a simple fix if not try breaking it in more like SWE said above keep us posted

:cheers:

[DamianTC]

well I got about 400 shots in the x-valve total. would there be a reason this would happen with the ULT on/off and not the x-valve on/off?

[Coralis]

take the ult apart and lube the crud out of the small black oring inside .


see this thread here http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=236095&page=2&pp=30 post 33

[DamianTC]

something else I just thought might be affecting the shots dropping off when shoting fast...

My tank is a Pure Energy 72cu 3000psi. I called the store I ordered it from and asked what the output pressure was. The tech said between 750-850psi. Could this be a problem if my tank is putting out less than 800psi?

I was thinking about getting an adjustible reg so I could set it to 900-1000psi. Can I buy a new reg and just take the old one off the tank and put the new one on? or do I need to have an airsmith do it? or am I just better off buying a new tank with an adjustible reg already on it?

If the best thing is just buying a new tank with the adjustible reg. Does anyone know some of the best models for the price?

[DamianTC]

I just finished off the rest of the air in my tank (about another 300-400 shots) breaking in the x-valve. I had oiled every o-ring in the ULT prior. Also oiled the carrier in the powertube. I am still getting the same problem that seems to be bolt stick with the ULT. I am gonna be busy all day monday, so tuesday I will get my tank refilled and post a youtube video on this forum showing my problem

[BigTrucker]

I dont think its the ULT. I have the same problem with my classic mag valve with a level 10 bolt. I think you just need to break in the o ring in on the level 10. Next time im out i am going to try subtracting and adding some shims to the power tube. I am using the red spring with 3 shims and the smallest carrier that does not leak. If i use the gold spring I get bolt stick. So if i get mine to work first I'll post here and let you know.

:cheers:

[DamianTC]

I just finished recording and uploading the video I made showing my problem. I hope this makes it easier to pinpoint my problem

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/OYGiyebPlkY&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/OYGiyebPlkY&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

[BigTrucker]

or check your frame screws make sure one isnt super tight and the other not so much, this has been known to cause many a maggots trouble and its a simple fix if not try breaking it in more like SWE said above keep us posted

:cheers:
Try this ^^^^^^^ also add some lube put it right into the valve and oil up the carrier o-ring in the power tube

[DamianTC]

I am not 100% sure when you say "frame screws" the only thing I can think of this being the one field strip screw. Please let me know what this is

[Coralis]

the other screw is the one holding the front of grip frame on to the rail ( located between the trigger and the bicycle grip) though i dont think this is the problem. When you set up your level 10 did you use the largest carrier that doesnt leak as to the smallest one that shoots I ask because the level 10 +ult is more finicky that the level 10 and the rt on/off . I still think your problem is the ult itself because you are getting leakage down the barrel with the trigger pulled you may have to play with different oring combos to get to work right because of minute difference in the tolerance of the orings . Lastly as I posted earlier I unscrewed the ult halfs and then the ult pins and clean the pin and check the small black oring to make sure its seated properly and not twisted or rolled up and check it for lubrication.

[secretweaponevan]

I am not 100% sure when you say "frame screws" the only thing I can think of this being the one field strip screw. Please let me know what this is

The field strip screw is 1 of your 2 frame screws. The second is right in front of the trigger.

Don't torque the living crap out of either. You'll torque the body out of alignment.

Snug is good.

[secretweaponevan]

& as Coralis said,

You want the largest carrier that doesn't leak, not the smallest that will allow it to fire.

Also, are you using LVL 10 shims in your ULT? 1 level 10 shim equals 2 ult shims. It seems strange that it will full auto on just 3 shims.

I do think there is a problem with your ULT though. It shouldn't whistle, even if it was happy.

Take apart your ULT and inspect it after you ensure that you are using the largest lvl 10 carrier that doesn't leak.

How many shims are in your LVL 10?

[secretweaponevan]

I also heard massive shootdown in the video.

What tank are you running?

And does it shootdown when not running remote?

[Coralis]

he is running a PE
My tank is a Pure Energy 72cu 3000psi. I called the store I ordered it from and asked what the output pressure was. The tech said between 750-850psi. Could this be a problem if my tank is putting out less than 800psi? I didnt hear the shootdown though when he was using the rt on/off unless my hearing is getting that bad .

[DamianTC]

after looking closely I did have one L10 shim and one ULT shim.. and when I was getting ful auto, I had two L10 shims and one ULT shim. I now put 4 ULT shims in and it seems to be shooting fine so far... but I am still getting the whistling sound. The gun did not whistle with the x-valve on/off

[Dend78]

where is that whistle coming from?? it is out the back of the valve? if so i believe thats the reg piston thats causing problems there or at least the o-ring on it, those shims will get ya if you dont look close ive done that a few times myself :rofl:

[DamianTC]

ok well I thought I had the problem fixed, but after shooting it today I found out that the problem is still there.. this is getting very fusterating because my Y-Grip just came in today and I am supposed to be playing tomorrow.. doubt it now that gun still isnt working. the shims in the L10 and ULT are really confusing to me. I am having a hard time learning the concept of them. The first question I have for this post is:

With using HPA, which doesnt change with temperature, is it true that once I have the gun setup correctly (number of shims, carrier size, etc) I should never have to change any of those settings?

2nd question: If I can not for the life of me get this setup right, can I send my gun to AGD and have them setup everything for me and send it back?

I like messing with paintball guns and adding accessories, but the only adjustments I like changing is the velocity up and down LOL

[secretweaponevan]

I'd next start by eliminating the remote as a source of the problem. (It looks like a small diameter hose)

Hook your bottle up on gun and see if that helps.

[DamianTC]

already tried that evan

[secretweaponevan]

Then I'd completely dismantle the ULT and inspect for bent/damaged parts. Then reassemble and lube.

[DamianTC]

I'd rather have it done the right way the first time, instead of me guessing what the problem could be.. can I send my gun to AGD to have them setup everything?

[Coralis]

yeah you'll have to give em a call and get a rma number or something like that.