Pneumag saftey ideas

[skyless]

I have been playing with the idea of intalling some kind of safty on my g-force frame and have been looking into on/offs. With an internal lpr and a non on/off asa i figured if i could cut off the air supply and shoot the remaing pressure off that the marker would be non oprerational. The two options i see are to cut the air supply to the valve or to cut the supply to the pnuemagics. I have a on/off ball valve that i will use to try with the valve but i found these
http://www.dcionline.com/PDF/VLV.PDF
and was thinking about trying to make a push button on/off between the lpr and the pneumatics, with the button coming out the side of the grips at the bottom of the frame. Any ideas, I know it would be easier and cheaper to use a barrel sock but if i wanted cheap and easy i would have gotten rid of my mags a while ago.

[TwilightG]

Make sure you don't accidentally hit that button in the middle of a firefight :shooting:

I always like the E-Mag-style safety but these frames cannot accommodate that due to the lack of material. I wonder if something could be fabricated using a set of aluminum panels (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=237390) :ninja: :p

[Watcher]

What about just a trigger blocking safety like what's on the standard intelliframes and benchys and such. Should be simpler to install and just as effective.

[TwilightG]

What about just a trigger blocking safety like what's on the standard intelliframes and benchys and such. Should be simpler to install and just as effective.

The problem is that the G-Force frames don't have the room for one. This was done by design to optimize the trigger pull.

I've been thinking about this more... i still think the best bet is to use an on/off asa. even if the lpr is still pressurized, the mag valve will not (or at least not have enough pressure to move the bolt)

Just don't make the same mistake I made and accidentally lose your on/off knob :tard: I was standing around waiting for a game to start, went to turn on my asa and found that the knob just spun itself right out. CP asa's don't really have this problem. Mine is a NDZ

[jade_monkey07]

what i did for my friends gforce was put a slide check between 2 small pieces of braided line. this shuts off the air to the valve and clears the extra pressure. there is still pressure to the pneumatics but the marker wont fire

[Watcher]

Thats a good idea, Jade. A check valve with a purge will take care of it, but you will waste a shot or two (or more) of air everytime you do it depending on where you put it.

Or what about a ball valve somewhere? Put a ball valve right up against the ram and have the lever poke out of the grips. Then it will behave similar to an e-mag selector switch only it will be a bit harder to spin and it won't select modes :rolleyes:

[maniacmechanic]

what i did for my friends gforce was put a slide check between 2 small pieces of braided line. this shuts off the air to the valve and clears the extra pressure. there is still pressure to the pneumatics but the marker wont fire

this is probley the best & easiest & safest ( just don't forget to degas it ) way to go , air loss would be mimimal if it goes between the grip & valve

[Spider-TW]

Beswick Engineering makes a 10-32 threaded slide check and a 10-32 threaded ball valve (http://www.beswick.com/products/product_details.php?pid=280) . Maybe haveblue (airsoldier) could order it (he has other Beswick stuff), but since their website allows you to submit a request for quote there's no telling what the price would be.

[snoopay700]

My safety is i turn off my LPR and then screw it back in before the game. It's no more hassle than turning off a safety and it's a lot more effective.

[Spider-TW]

My safety is i turn off my LPR and then screw it back in before the game. It's no more hassle than turning off a safety and it's a lot more effective.
My team mate unscrewed his tickler until it popped the top off and spit the guts out. :confused: :mad: :rofl:

I have three scratch marks on my tickler to show me where the cap is in number of turns, like a micrometer. A mark on the body, a mark on the cap, and a cross mark on the body to show how far down the cap is screwed in full turns.

[UThomas]

Why couldn't you just put an adapter plate between the bottom line and the grip frame that had some sort of slide check or push button on/off built in for those that are using grip frame LPR's?