help: major problems

[pip_999]

ok just got my amg up and workin
and i was up and playing with it (for a while)
it is an old mag (old 7th series) almost resmelbes the one in the tech vid
so anyway it has an old shcool bolt, and i am TEMPORARILY running it on CO2

so anyway i was playing with it, and the velocity was CRAZY
305
202
185
275
270
180

it was all over the place
i have to come to the conclusion taht i need the following
if i need anythign more, or u can come up witha solution please i am all ears

i think i need
REG SEAT
HPA TANK
LONGNOSE BOLT (or a new bolt)

[pip_999]

forgot to mention
barrel on it was a
14" SP AA

[a_malfunction]

That should probably do it.

[FeelTheRT]

1. CO2 is prolly your problem
2. get another reg or a HPA system wth an adjustable reg
3. clean your reg

[Smokee_2_7]

If i were you, the first thing i would do is replace the reg seat.

second, make sure no liquid co2 is getting into the gun. f

Do those 2 first, then re-try it to see if it solves the problem. If not, well go from there.

- - - Dont want to try 'fixinig' to many things at once. .

[pip_999]

need some more opinions
also
waht do i cealn my reg with
any suggestions
and once i clean it, oil it up nice and good right?

[rhetor22]

I think you should first try HPA on it. In my experiences with co2, the velocity would go anywhere from 75 to 320

[LqdTECH]

Make sure ur CO2 tank is anti syphoned that really helps also make sure ur expansion champer is a good one. Check to see if u have any leaks in ur valve as well.... IF it keeps happening slap a new parts kit in it and that should do it.

[Smokee_2_7]

hmmm. If anyone using CO2 is having velocity jumps from 75 to 320, There is somthing else wrong other than using only co2. Most likely its a combination of problems. #1 getting liquid co2 into the gun. #2 bad regulator seat- - caused by missalignmenton the seat and/or compounded by dirt in the valve.

For good regulator sea info, check this post out. http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7291

as far as cleaning your reg goes, completely dissasemble the valve and i would reccomend going over all surfaces in the regulator area with a alcolol moistened q-tip. remove all dirt from the metal surfaces, and inspect them closly (use a magnifying glass if necessary.) check the spring pack (unscrew the velocity adjusterand pull all that stuff out). remember, it NEEDS to be all 'greasy' lookin/feeling. Pull the Piston out (brass thingie )and inspect/ clean the surface of it, and inspect the o-ring around the end of it closely. once agian, be double sure there's NO dirt or damage to the oring. If there is, replace.

Check out the regulator pin/ spring. (the german hand grenad looking thingie that sets against the regulator seat. Make sure its centered in it's hole right, and once agian, super clean of all dirt and debris. While your at it, check the big oring that is at the base of the threads where the 2 halvs screw together. Check for and remeve dirt, and replace if damaged.

Take out the on/off assembly. Check the whole assymbly for dirt and examine the orings closley. Remember, when the whole assymbly is put together, the pin should slide up and down with a little bit of resistance. If it moves freely, its worn out and is not getting a prober seal throughout the on off.

Do the same thing with the power tube tip. take the tip off, remove the spacer and o-ring beneath it. Clean them off, check for any kind of nicks and dirt. clean and replace as necessary.

NOTE do not use alcohol on the orings to clean them. They do not need to be super dry and clean of all 'slippery' stuff (oil.) Alcohol will cause the orings to break down faster. Only clean the metal surfaces w/ the alcohol q-tip combo.

Finally, check the oring that sits at the base of the threads of the powertube tip. If it looks kinda misshapen or beat up, replace it w/ a new one.

Ok, now put everything back together. Dont oil anything yet (including orings.) only make sure that the spring pack is coated in the approiate grease. ( you shouldnt need to grease it, unles someone before youhad taken it out and wiped all the grease off.)

Before you screw the back halvs back together, replace the regulator seat- - - REGARDLESS of how good you think the other one is. once again, see the post I linked to earlier. THats why. . . . .

Now that the whole valve is re-assembled, but one drop of oil in each of the 2 holes marked -oil- on the bottom side of the regulator back half. Make sure your using the right kind of oil. paintgun oil only. if your not sure about this, ASK. This could potentially be the cause of all problems, if your using the wrong stuff.

Re-assemble the gun.

once the gun is re-assembled, put about 2-3 drops of oil into the asa adaptor where your screwing your c02 in.

Take the barrel off.

Gas the gun up (hold the trigger when you hit the gun w/ gas.)

dry fire the gun somewhere around 30-40 times. this will work all the oil through the system, lubing what needs to be lubed, and blowing the excess out of the barrel. (thats why ya take the barrel off, so ya dont coat it in oil and toss accuracy to the wind.)

Once again, make sure that your not gettign liquid Co2 into the gun. If the tank is mounted on gun, make sure your using an anti-siphon tube in the tank, AND an expanion chamber. I believe that a foregrip reg may work in place of the x-chamber, just make sure the output is set to around 800-850 psi.

Or, run your co2 remotely.

Even better, run remote AND an x-chamber.

Going with compressed air will prevent all this additional rigging.


Anyway, go through all these cleaning steps slowly, and make sure all the peices go back where they're supposed to. It would be best to compare your work to the Video, or a owner's manual diagram just to make sure there's nothing important missing.

If done correctly, you will not have anymore problems like you have been.


Hope this helps,

Carl.

(edit) Pip, i noticed that your newer here on ao. have you had your mag long? did you get it used? If so, did you get an owners manual and video? If not you can get both FREE from airgun Designs. you can order them free from the website www.airgun.com , as well as download diagrams of the gun from the online shop. (free also.)

Finally, if you got it used, check for aftermarket parts. If there are some present (i.e. a reactor on off valve, stuff like that) that could be realllly causing some of these problems. replace all aftermarket parts with stock ones. I know that sounds weird, but trust us on this one. Sotck parts work best, and are 10,000 times more reliable.

If you still feel like you need more opinions, call airgun and ask to speak to John (one of the techs.) Tell him what you read here, and ask if that sounds right. Im willing to bet that he will tell you the same. He's a really nice guy, and will definitly help you out till your mag is shooting fine. Oh yeah, and if you do call john, lol . . . tell him that Carl from Mardi Gras reffered you to him.

P.S. this should probably be moved to the tech forum.

[cphilip]

Originally posted by Smokee_2_7
P.S. this should probably be moved to the tech forum.

Yep.

[pip_999]

actually the only thing on tehre that is not stock
is teh fact that i got a turbo valve:(
this is esentially the only part taht is not stock

but thanx for all of your help
and yes it was used

you say i can get a owners manual, and video for free, if i e-mail the office??

[Omicron]

I tried your mag with my HPA and it was fine, except for the first shot hot, which can be cured with a new reg seat (i didn't have a spare). Either you get an xpansion chamber with anti siphon, or move up to HPA.

oh you're Chris Brimson right?

(just so you other guys know, Chris gave me his mag to look at and see what was wrong with it. It had some funky on/off top, so I gave him my spare stock on/off assembly)