My mag before and After.

[Bpiatt]

Here is my automag when I first bought it off ebay for 75 dollars.
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/1667/magstartge1.th.jpg (http://img80.imageshack.us/my.php?image=magstartge1.jpg)

This is my mag 200 dollars later. Very pleased with what is done so far.
http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/8378/finishedmagcz6.th.jpg (http://img83.imageshack.us/my.php?image=finishedmagcz6.jpg)
Specs:
Ule Body
Intelliframe
Dye Stickies
Level 10
14in Freak with SS back and AA front
Palmer Stabilizer
CP Asa

I am looking to convert it into a "spydermag" but I am unsure on how to do so. If anyone could post a nice how-to guide it would be greatly appreciated! If you guys have any other suggestions of things I should do dont be afraid to say so!

[eXo_oUtSiDeR]

nice mag! all you need now is an x valve and maybe a different rail.
As for the spyder mag all you need to do is set it up so the solenoid is in position to trip the automag sear. You sould also remove the sear arm so the noid only makes contact with the little part that the sear arm was connected to. Heres how the solenoid should look:(pics 3-6)

http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=238188

im pretty sure thats how you do it, im not sure where the noid is located in a spyder frame. You basically want the noid to take the place of you fingers so you can probably figure out how to do it!

and if you decide to do a different e-pneu conversion, this is how you would do it ( the ego board can be replaced with just about any other board/frame except for the ion board unless you mod it)
http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=211255&highlight=ego

Good luck! :cheers:

[insixdays777]

Needs an RT on/off. It make a hudge difference on the trigger pull feel and is worth it. Can be picked up cheap used here. I put one in all my classic valves.

[Bassaro]

Nice mag. To do a successful spydermag conversion you must have a ult. I built one a while back and learned that lesson first hand with many different valve combinations it all comes down to the ult. I have a nice spydermag frame if you are interested. All the work has been done for you and will include the sear. If you are interested hit me with a pm and I will get you pics.

[Bpiatt]

thanks guys. i was unaware that i must have an xvalve with ult in order to do the spydermag conversion. does the rt on/off decrease trigger pull? if i purchased this on/off will i be able to convert to a spyder mag? input is greatly appreciated!

Bassaro- I PMed you about your frame, im very interested.

[jade_monkey07]

yeah the rt on off will greatly decrease the trigger pull, i find it quite a bit snappier. i dont think it will be light enough for the spydermag though

[Bpiatt]

yeah the rt on off will greatly decrease the trigger pull, i find it quite a bit snappier. i dont think it will be light enough for the spydermag though
Thank you, gona have to sell my pump so i can buy me an xvalve

[ManInBlack]

You know, it doesn't necessarily need to be an xvalve. If you're looking to save some money just pick up an RT or Emag valve. They should accept the ULT with no problem. Only difference is they weigh a touch more.

[Bassaro]

These guys are crazy man. You need a ULT to run a spydermag. Emag and rt valves DO NOT accept a ULT (trust me I tried) you can mill out a rt or emag valve to accept a ult but you better know what you are doing or you can destroy your valve body.I heard classic valves do but it is not recommended (why I don't know). But if your building a spydermag a classic valve will not keep up in terms of bps anyway. Face it man it is just easier to bite the bullet and empty the pockets on a x-valve we all have to do it at some point with our mag projects.

[GRimm]

Actually the emag valve does accept the ult, just not older emag valves. And you can use a retro valve you just have to get it modified by tunaman for it to work.

[Watcher]

You got a ULE body, the intelliframe, and all that other stuff for only $200? :tard:

Good job :headbang:


BTW, ReTro valves, some e-mag valves, and the x-valves will accept the ULT as a drop in.
I'm pretty sure some classic valves will accept it as well.

How you tell is if in the on/off hole there are 2 o-rings in the top, one around the other.
If there are two then the ULT is drop-in; if there is only one o-ring then it will need to be drilled out to accept the 2 o-rings.

At the risk of ruining the valve I would not suggest trying this yourself. Have someone certified like Luke do it.