Old Timer needs help with upgrades

[Flatliner333]

I have an Automag that is over 15 yrs old. It started as a new stock powerfeed with a crown point .It has an 8 hole mod, Benchmark 45 single trigger, lvl 7 bolt, SP barrel and compressed air.What used to be fast aint fast no more ,7 bps I need help.
From what I have read it seems like I should get a double trigger frame, do a Pneu Mag conversion, and get an X Valve. I am not so much worried about the weight of the gun as the speed. Can I do anything to my stock A.I.R. Valve like change the on/off assembly to make it recharge like an X valve or is this possible. I would appreciate any advise you could give. Also, is there somewhere you can look up valve serial numbers for info on the gun or no.......Thanx :headbang:

[Spider-TW]

Start with the FAQ (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=214736)

Once you start down the upgrade road...well, just don't expect to end up with the one perfect mag that plays every kind of paintball. The more complicated you make them, the more they start to act like other markers, except you'll know how to fix it. :argh:

[Dend78]

I have an Automag that is over 15 yrs old. It started as a new stock powerfeed with a crown point .It has an 8 hole mod, Benchmark 45 single trigger, lvl 7 bolt, SP barrel and compressed air.What used to be fast aint fast no more ,7 bps I need help.
From what I have read it seems like I should get a double trigger frame, do a Pneu Mag conversion, and get an X Valve. I am not so much worried about the weight of the gun as the speed. Can I do anything to my stock A.I.R. Valve like change the on/off assembly to make it recharge like an X valve or is this possible. I would appreciate any advise you could give. Also, is there somewhere you can look up valve serial numbers for info on the gun or no.......Thanx :headbang:


if you arent worried about weight get an emag valve or an RT valve, then you can have the RT effect or go with a ULT kit and see if that speeds you up any, then continue from there possibly a hopper upgrade

[Old School 626]

I did the same thing a little two years ago except the mag I was working with was a non PF version from 1991. Two upgrades that I thought were well worth the expense were getting an Intelliframe and putting on a ULE body.

The intelliframe literally changed the whole feel of the marker. More comfy grips and if you start fingering the trigger down lower it's a significantly lighter pull. ($60 -$80 here on AO)

The ULE body accomplished three things. 1) it's lighter, big deal, feh. The real payoff was 2) no more elbows needed and 3) able to use AC threaded barrels which there are lots more of being made today. ($80-120 also here on AO)

Since then I've also changed out the on/off in favor of an RT on/off. This lightened up the trigger pull some more and even made the trigger a little reactive. ($20-30 from Tunaman)

I like mine set up like this and even though I picked up an E-mag since then I still like playing with this one. I even kept the vertical bottle set up too!

[Spider-TW]

if you arent worried about weight get an emag valve or an RT valve, then you can have the RT effect or go with a ULT kit and see if that speeds you up any, then continue from there possibly a hopper upgrade
That is something not in the FAQ. When you upgrade your mag, plan on feeding it paint and air! It's not hard to out run a revvy.

[BigEvil]

I have an Automag that is over 15 yrs old. It started as a new stock powerfeed with a crown point .It has an 8 hole mod, Benchmark 45 single trigger, lvl 7 bolt, SP barrel and compressed air.What used to be fast aint fast no more ,7 bps I need help.
From what I have read it seems like I should get a double trigger frame, do a Pneu Mag conversion, and get an X Valve. I am not so much worried about the weight of the gun as the speed. Can I do anything to my stock A.I.R. Valve like change the on/off assembly to make it recharge like an X valve or is this possible. I would appreciate any advise you could give. Also, is there somewhere you can look up valve serial numbers for info on the gun or no.......Thanx :headbang:


Welcome to AO, it's great to see another 'long timer' around.

For what you are going to spend on the Xvalve alone, you might want to consider picking up a used Classic RT mag. You can pick one up with a lvl10 for about $200.


:cheers:

[blackdeath]

I Run an original design automag RT. It will keep up with new electro guns without a problem. you just have to know how to use it. So to be honest I say get a X valve and the intelliframe and call it a day. After them 2 you can see what you would like to do. But You will outfeed an old revvy hopper at will with just them 2 mods. Your old gun will be just fine. and they always get odd looks from all the younger players that have the big fancy electro guns. And even mor looks when they find out you got the same rate of fire as them with that old gun.

[pump]

if you want it faster either buy a electro frame or make a pneuframe

youll need to buy an RT on off if the electro frame doesnt come with one the pneuframe will like it as well

and i think with that setup a ULT will work fine as well, but as mech its really hard to get working right, but is possible if you got the time lots of time...and shims....lots


but the mag itself is fast enough, but just out fingers need the help

these are classic mags with LVL X Bolts
http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/HitechHyper1.avi
http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/HitechHyper2.avi

[crazyjoe12]

if you pnuemag it you will be able to shoot faster and have a real nice and light trigger pull even with the classic valve you currently have. i run my classic with a pnued intelli and have my rt mag set up with an adj tank running 1000 psi to rt nicely.

[WUNDERWAFFEN]

A must have:

Level 10 bolt kit, LX, LvL10
http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/Products/lvl10.shtml

Once you get one, you will be buying them for your other valves as well.

If you don’t have a back-up valve yet the older valves sell pretty cheap here ($35-60 standard $70-90 for one with an LvL10.) True it doesn’t take long to break a valve down to change an o-ring, but it only takes a minute to swap the valve out.

[Flatliner333]

if you want it faster either buy a electro frame or make a pneuframe

youll need to buy an RT on off if the electro frame doesnt come with one the pneuframe will like it as well

and i think with that setup a ULT will work fine as well, but as mech its really hard to get working right, but is possible if you got the time lots of time...and shims....lots


but the mag itself is fast enough, but just out fingers need the help

these are classic mags with LVL X Bolts
http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/HitechHyper1.avi
http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/HitechHyper2.avi


What valve set up are those two mags running in the videos.

[Flatliner333]

[QUOTE=WUNDERWAFFEN]A must have:

Level 10 bolt kit, LX, LvL10
http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/Products/lvl10.shtml

Once you get one, you will be buying them for your other valves as well.

If you don’t have a back-up valve yet the older valves sell pretty cheap here ($35-60 standard $70-90 for one with an LvL10.) True it doesn’t take long to break a valve down to change an o-ring, but it only takes a minute to swap the valve out.[/Q

I thought we had gotten away from foamys for good with the lvl 7 bolt . Do all the lvl 10 bolts have foamys, it looks like it rides inside the end of the bolt and not just stuck on the end like old stile bolts ?

[Flatliner333]

Thanks for the love guys this feels like home....

[Miltonyz]

If you are planning on making it pnuematic or electropnuematic whats the point of the x-valve? Is the extra return force needed to reset the pnuematics? The standard valve doesn't start shooting down until somewhere around 13bps if I remember correctly. Plus with the standard valve you don't have to worry about shoot-up and silly chrono procedures.

If I was looking for the most speed from a nonassisted trigger pull I would go x-valve and crank the pressure up.

[pump]

What valve set up are those two mags running in the videos.

these are classic mags with LVL X Bolts
Centerflag frame with full auto 20 bps

if you can find a frame and get a new on off(that usually comes with the frame)
your mag can do that too

[Dawg047]

If you are planning on making it pnuematic or electropnuematic whats the point of the x-valve? Is the extra return force needed to reset the pnuematics? The standard valve doesn't start shooting down until somewhere around 13bps if I remember correctly. Plus with the standard valve you don't have to worry about shoot-up and silly chrono procedures.

If I was looking for the most speed from a nonassisted trigger pull I would go x-valve and crank the pressure up.


Well, that is a good point but some people shoot faster than 13bps. I personally can with my pneumatic frame. If you are going EP, then you are definately going to want valve capabilities over 13bps. To be honest, the classic valve atleast all I have had start to "chuff" below 13bps which is why I run RT/RTP/X valves in all of my pneumatic applications. The classics have a good rate of recharge but do tend to chuff every now and then.

[pump]

If you are going EP, then you are definately going to want valve capabilities over 13bps. To be honest, the classic valve atleast all I have had start to "chuff" below 13bps
weird even my 92 mag does 15 no problem no shoot down

and those vids had classics doing 20

[Spider-TW]

weird even my 92 mag does 15 no problem no shoot down

and those vids had classics doing 20
Since classic valves take longer to recharge, they need an electronic frame to run 'chuff-less' the higher they get. It's hard not to chuff a classic pneu above 10-12, but they can run with an EP frame at 15 and a little above since the frame guarantees recharge time.

[pump]

It's hard not to chuff a classic pneu above 10-12,
i think thats tuing, my friends pneuclassic rips no drop off