Minimag trouble

[pbrules15]

So I just got back from playing today and I ended up using my backup gun because my minimag jammed up.

Temperature: about 75 degrees Fahrenheit
Humidity: Very dry
Air source: CO2, direct through braided steel hose, no stabilizer or expansion.
Setup: Minimag, dye dbl trigger frame, dye 14" barrel, and lvl 7 bolt.

My first few shots during the game, my gun makes a burping sound (full tank), I jam a ball and make a huge mess. I tried cleaning it out, but did not fix anything. The only thing I can imagine is when I shoot, the gun gets extremely cold, and the valve cannot take it.

Is it worth investing in a Palmer's male stabilizer, and/or a lvl 10 bolt. I have not had good luck with expansion chambers, the gun still freezes over. I have not yet tried putting in an anti-siphon system yet.

Note: I am running CO2 because I have to, there are no paintball fields/stores for over 50 miles in my area, so HPA is out of the question.


Do you have any ideas/tips on making my gun work well?

If I do not pull the trigger all the way down, it does it almost immediately. In the heat of battle though, it does it without me trying to make it happen.

VIDEO (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxrDS0t8h9A)

Here, I put a squeegee in front of the bolt, and fire, it immediately messes up the marker. I believe this is similar to what would happen if a paintball would not be fully seated. More info in the description.

VIDEO 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVM6EY2sxcQ)


Thanks!

[jrod]

Couldn't really tell from the video. Is that bolt stick? If so, try loosening the field strip and/or frame screw.

[burscott]

How clean/lubed is everything?

Also how old is the bolt spring?

Do you have another grip frame to test? Dye Frame weren't the best on mags :(

[pbrules15]

Thanks!

I don't think it is bolt stick, the bolt is in the back position, what happens is the trigger does not return to the normal position, it gets stuck half way in between, so jiggling the trigger usually gets it back to normal. When it is stuck, it leaks down the barrel.

I tried loosening the frame and field strip screw, no improvement.

The gun is very clean, and lubed up. I use a light gun oil.

I have tried it with an old, and brand new spring. Same thing.

I only have this frame, it had it on the gun when I got it.

Also, under high rates of fire, it becomes very inconsistent. Some shots go 100', some go 12'. Very weird.

[secretweaponevan]

Sounds like you are getting liquid CO2 in the gun.

[jrod]

I took another look at the video (great idea btw, it really helps troubleshooting). Have you disassembled everything? Make sure you have all the parts in the right place.

Here's a diagram for the classic valve:
http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/Images/explovalve-thumb.jpg

[Coralis]

try putting your bottle directly on the vertical adapter and see if you have this problem ( note when the bottle is connected to the vertical adapter turning the gun on its side or pointing the barrel at the ground is likely to allow liquid CO2 into the valve.

[pbrules15]

I checked the diagram, it looks like I have everything in place.

Due to the Dye frame, the burst disk hits the trigger guard, and I cannot screw the tank in. However, I did attach the shortest steel hose and an asa, and shot the gun with the tank upright, and upside down, it seemed the same.

I was playing around with some power tube spacers, they do not seem to help, in fact it is difficult to find the correct one with a non functioning gun. But I did notice that if the gun gets jammed, I can push the bolt back with a squeegee and get it to recock and work. Perhaps I need a stronger spring?

[secretweaponevan]

I checked the diagram, it looks like I have everything in place.

Due to the Dye frame, the burst disk hits the trigger guard, and I cannot screw the tank in. However, I did attach the shortest steel hose and an asa, and shot the gun with the tank upright, and upside down, it seemed the same.

I was playing around with some power tube spacers, they do not seem to help, in fact it is difficult to find the correct one with a non functioning gun. But I did notice that if the gun gets jammed, I can push the bolt back with a squeegee and get it to recock and work. Perhaps I need a stronger spring?

Most likely just need a longer powertube spacer.

Edit:
Your trigger rod is too long. Screw it into the sear clevis until there is a 1/16" (about the thickness of a credit card) gap between the back of the trigger and the tip of the rod.

Also, make sure your powertube tip is snug and has its o-ring, and check to see if your bumper is swollen or warped.

[pbrules15]

Most likely just need a longer powertube spacer.

Edit:
Your trigger rod is too long. Screw it into the sear clevis until there is a 1/16" (about the thickness of a credit card) gap between the back of the trigger and the tip of the rod.

Also, make sure your powertube tip is snug and has its o-ring, and check to see if your bumper is swollen or warped.

I shortened it, until I could not even get it to fire, then backed off a little, but still as I pull the trigger slowly, it leaks down the barrel.

Or if I put a squeegee down the barrel and fire, simulating a chop/jam, the gun will not recock. And I have to do it myself, by pushing the bolt back with the squeegee.

Is the o-ring under the power tube spacer a teflon or rubber one? I have two that will fit in the parts kit, so I am unsure.

[secretweaponevan]

I shortened it, until I could not even get it to fire, then backed off a little, but still as I pull the trigger slowly, it leaks down the barrel.

is the o-ring under the power tube spacer a teflon or rubber one?

Rubber, urethane. CO2 eats them up though. Turns them to brittle junk, fast.

If your on/off pin is shorter than 3/4" (.750") that could be causing you problems too.

[pbrules15]

Rubber, urethane. CO2 eats them up though. Turns them to brittle junk, fast.

Ok, still same problem.

The on/off pin is exactly .75"

Is it common for the valve assembly to get stuck on the on/off pin when I try to remove it? I can get it out by putting a shim between the rod and the trigger and pulling the trigger.

[Coralis]

Sounds like you still need adjust the trigger rod a bit more basically what you want is to air up the gun and hear it "cock" then measure the distance from the tip of the trigger rod to the back of the trigger , it should be about 1/16" of an inch or about the thickness of a credit card like stated above. Also did you replace the main spring since you had the valve apart ? What spacer do you have installed I would start with a 220 and go from there . I couldnt tell from the video do your trigger have trigger stops installed if so you might want to adjust them to give you more travel when you pull the trigger

[secretweaponevan]

Ok, still same problem.

The on/off pin is exactly .75"

Is it common for the valve assembly to get stuck on the on/off pin when I try to remove it? I can get it out by putting a shim between the rod and the trigger and pulling the trigger.

It is common if you don't pull the trigger after degassing, or you set your trigger rod too short, or...you are missing your rail bushing.

Check your rail for the rail bushing. It is what the field strip screw goes through from the gripframe, through the rail, into the valve. Without it, your mag will leak, have bolt stick and the sear won't be able to push up the on/off pin far enough to disassemble the marker.

[pbrules15]

Sounds like you still need adjust the trigger rod a bit more basically what you want is to air up the gun and hear it "cock" then measure the distance from the tip of the trigger rod to the back of the trigger , it should be about 1/16" of an inch or about the thickness of a credit card like stated above. Also did you replace the main spring since you had the valve apart ? What spacer do you have installed I would start with a 220 and go from there . I couldnt tell from the video do your trigger have trigger stops installed if so you might want to adjust them to give you more travel when you pull the trigger

It is difficult to adjust the trigger and get 1/16" because the trigger is very loose in the frame, it has about 3/16" travel forward with the gun gassed up.
I did replace the main spring, it is brand new.
I have a .215 spacer.
I do not have trigger stops.

[pbrules15]

It is common if you don't pull the trigger after degassing, or you set your trigger rod too short, or...you are missing your rail bushing.

Check your rail for the rail bushing. It is what the field strip screw goes through from the gripframe, through the rail, into the valve. Without it, your mag will leak, have bolt stick and the sear won't be able to push up the on/off pin far enough to disassemble the marker.

I do have the brass rail bushing.

[secretweaponevan]

It is difficult to adjust the trigger and get 1/16" because the trigger is very loose in the frame, it has about 3/16" travel forward with the gun gassed up.
I did replace the main spring, it is brand new.
I have a .215 spacer.
I do not have trigger stops.

Good news about the rail bushing.

For the 1/16" gap, that is usually measured with the safety on. Since you don't have a safety in the video, you can lengthen the rod as long as there is still at least 1/16" gap of free travel forward with the marker gassed up.

Still, I'd oil that puppy, get a .220 spacer and check your spring pack for rust/debris.

[pbrules15]

Good news about the rail bushing.

For the 1/16" gap, that is usually measured with the safety on. Since you don't have a safety in the video, you can lengthen the rod as long as there is still at least 1/16" gap of free travel forward with the marker gassed up.

Still, I'd oil that puppy, get a .220 spacer and check your spring pack for rust/debris.

I'll try the different spacer tomorrow, I've got some stuff to work on.

Would a new bolt help? Aluminum?

Thanks for all your help!

[secretweaponevan]

I'll try the different spacer tomorrow, I've got some stuff to work on.

Would a new bolt help? Aluminum?

Thanks for all your help!

Nope. Use only AGD products. Nothing else will net you a gain in performance.

[pbrules15]

Nope. Use only AGD products. Nothing else will net you a gain in performance.

Would you suggest a lvl 10 bolt?
Also, what about just a plain stock frame? Instead of this dye one...

[secretweaponevan]

Would you suggest a lvl 10 bolt?
Also, what about just a plain stock frame? Instead of this dye one...

Yes, I love the level 10 bolts.

I don't think the frame is causing your problem. If you like this frame, keep it.

[pbrules15]

Well, I still have the problem, and I'm not ready to upgrade to a level 10 yet.

I was looking at the exploded assembly of the minimag valve. LINK (http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/downloads/valveexplodedview.pdf). I noticed the On/Off Top I have looks very different than what is in the picture.

THIS (https://www.velocitypaintballonline.com/images/P/DSC_4947_m.jpg) is what is in my Minimag right now, but it looks different than THIS (http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=25&categoryID=18)

Would this make a difference? Should I order that different part?

Thanks

[Coralis]

That is the old style on/off top i dont think that would be causing your problem because its happening at low rates of fire , unless it was installed upside down you should see the groves when you insert it into the valve . I have a couple of questions for you when you have the valve out of the body do does the bolt slide up and down fairly easy. Does the bolt slide in and out of the barrel fairly easy, have you tried shooting with out the barrel to see if it still has problems.

[secretweaponevan]

Would this make a difference? Should I order that different part?

Thanks

Hold off on that just yet. Let's test your on/off.

Test 1:
Gas up.
Pull and hold trigger back.
Do you hear leaking down the barrel?

If not, your on/off shuts off fine. Proceed to Test 2.

Test 2:
Degass
Disassemble
Take bolt and bolt spring out
Reassemble
Hold trigger
Gas up
Release trigger for a second then pull and hold it back again.
Did gas RUSH out the barrel when you let go of the trigger?

If so, your on/off opens up fine. This will make sure that the on/off top that you have isn't restricting the gas flow.

[pbrules15]

That is the old style on/off top i dont think that would be causing your problem because its happening at low rates of fire , unless it was installed upside down you should see the groves when you insert it into the valve . I have a couple of questions for you when you have the valve out of the body do does the bolt slide up and down fairly easy. Does the bolt slide in and out of the barrel fairly easy, have you tried shooting with out the barrel to see if it still has problems.

I should have stated that. I have tested it with and without the barrel, and it does it either way. And the bolt seems to slide easy on the power tube.
Yesterday, I was playing with it, and after a few shots, it started to make a leaking sound inside the gun, and it would not stop. I let it sit for several minutes, gassed it up again, and it didn't happen again. Could my on/off pin be bad? The chrome plating is not as shiny as it used to be, but it is still very smooth.

[Coralis]

any luck fixing this ? if you have a parts kit laying around you might try changing the on/off orings. one question since the last time the gun was functioning did you do anything to it like changing orings etc ?

[athomas]

When was the last time the bolt spring was changed? They are a consumable item and need to be changed every so often.