..determined to get my Tac-One to RT...

[malJohann]

Right. So, I'm determined to get my Tac-One to RT bounce, but would prefer it to be a least cost effort, yet still have a controllable marker (i.e. not runaway). I was searching for info on 3000psi Max-Flo regulators when I happened upon two threads written by Butterfingers back in 2002.

http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=38008
http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=47925

He was able to achieve very good reactivity at about 850psi and would lower the input pressure to 750 or 700psi if he didn't want any reactivity. There is some talk of shortening the on/off pin and using spacers to achieve the "magical" combo.

Now, I want to try this, especially if it's as controllable as he says and there are no abnormal wear on parts. As I understand it though, there are some risks involved in getting it setup without damaging costly valve internals.

So, I thought I'd just ask from the excellent knowledge base we have here on AO. His info suggests filing .005 from the standard on/off, but I'm wondering whether there's a standard pin that's already the length I'm aiming for?

Also, are the spacers those from a Lvl-X or entirely something else, and how many of them would I need to put where? Your info, advice and experience would be greatly appreciated.

[chefomar]

Right. So, I'm determined to get my Tac-One to RT bounce, but would prefer it to be a least cost effort, yet still have a controllable marker (i.e. not runaway). I was searching for info on 3000psi Max-Flo regulators when I happened upon two threads written by Butterfingers back in 2002.

http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=38008
http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=47925

He was able to achieve very good reactivity at about 850psi and would lower the input pressure to 750 or 700psi if he didn't want any reactivity. There is some talk of shortening the on/off pin and using spacers to achieve the "magical" combo.

Now, I want to try this, especially if it's as controllable as he says and there are no abnormal wear on parts. As I understand it though, there are some risks involved in getting it setup without damaging costly valve internals.

So, I thought I'd just ask from the excellent knowledge base we have here on AO. His info suggests filing .005 from the standard on/off, but I'm wondering whether there's a standard pin that's already the length I'm aiming for?

Also, are the spacers those from a Lvl-X or entirely something else, and how many of them would I need to put where? Your info, advice and experience would be greatly appreciated.

Check out this link, I'm sure it will help. http://www.zakvetter.com/pages/paintballs/automag_info/rapidfire/rf_disclaimer.html

[malJohann]

Check out this link, I'm sure it will help. http://www.zakvetter.com/pages/paintballs/automag_info/rapidfire/rf_disclaimer.html

Only, what I'm asking is neither high-pressure or ULT mod rapid-fire, it's got something to do with tuning the on/off pin length and using spacers. I've actually been talking extensively to Zak, which is the reason he updated his pages by the way, but he has no experience tuning a mag the way I want to. Thanks for trying anyway.

[TwilightG]

an E-Mag on/off pin is shorter than the RT and (imho) easier to get some reactivity out of it

[Spider-TW]

I have not heard of a standard RT on/off that would not work (with RT or not) with a .728 pin when everything else is in good condition. A safe rule of thumb is if the RT is easily controllable, you will not be getting excessive wear. It was built for it. Use the right bumper for the type of bolt you have.

Working RT valves always have the RT effect. The question is how much are you getting and where is it going? Faster regulator fill gets more RT effect. Higher pressure helps that, as well as a clean and fast moving regulator.

The only thing between your finger and the RT effect is friction. Reducing the length of travel of the on/off pin inside of the top on/off oring helps a lot. There's not much to be done with the sear other than keeping it clean and free moving. The top oring can be too tight sometimes. Check it and lube the shaft of the pin so that it moves as smooth as possible.

The lvl x shims fit in the RT on/off, but they do not have good support like they would in a ULT and the length of the on/off assembly starts to interact with how tight you turn the frame screw, whether or not the RT on/off top turns by itself, and how much compression you get out of the top and body on/off orings. :tard:

I often polish the tool marks off the sear where the on/off pin rides and find that is worth about 0.005 in pin length. Make sure the sear axle pin is clean as well.

A shorter pin trade out is easy and safe to try. You can always put the old one back. Don't loose your rail bushing. ;)