Royally ripped. Story and question

[thejayare]

Short of it is this: I bought an RT Pro valve off someone here a while back. It sputtered when aired up, and I didn't take the time to dig into it until tonight. Turns out, if my eyes are true, that a previous owner tried to modify the valve to accept ULT, except looks like he used a normal shaped drill bit that left a slanted edge instead of a flat one. :cuss: As a result, neither the rt nor ult on/off work (ult can't even slide in quite far enough). Wasn't exactly mentioned at the sale.

Is it possible to salvage? Which tech guy could I send it to? Luke, Tuna? Or any ideas on an o-ring combo to use as-is?

[secretweaponevan]

Short of it is this: I bought an RT Pro valve off someone here a while back. It sputtered when aired up, and I didn't take the time to dig into it until tonight. Turns out, if my eyes are true, that a previous owner tried to modify the valve to accept ULT, except looks like he used a normal shaped drill bit that left a slanted edge instead of a flat one. :cuss: As a result, neither the rt nor ult on/off work. Wasn't exactly mentioned at the sale.

Is it possible to salvage? Which tech guy could I send it to? Luke, Tuna? Or any ideas on an o-ring combo to use as-is?

Does it leak down the barrel with the trigger at rest? (you have a leak in the powertube)
Does it leak down the barrel with the trigger held? (you have a leak in the on/off)

Which is it?

[thejayare]

Well, behavior is pretty erratic, as you might imagine, but on first air up, it usually doesn't leak. Pulling the trigger sends it into rapid-fire. Input is from high pressure PE 68/45.

[secretweaponevan]

Well, behavior is pretty erratic, as you might imagine, but on first air up, it usually doesn't leak. Pulling the trigger sends it into rapid-fire. Input is from high pressure PE 68/45.

If you hold the trigger back, does it leak down the barrel with the RT on/off?

[thejayare]

Pulling the trigger results in rapid-fire. Bolt never comes to rest to allow me the normal method for checking on/off leaks.

[secretweaponevan]

Pulling the trigger results in rapid-fire. Bolt never comes to rest to allow me the normal method for checking on/off leaks.

Is the trigger forcing forward or does the trigger just stay limp while the marker goes full auto?

[thejayare]

Ah, good question. It's not giving RT effect. Staying limp I guess is the best way to describe it.

[secretweaponevan]

Ah, good question. It's not giving RT effect. Staying limp I guess is the best way to describe it.

Is this with the RT on/off?
If so, take it out and inspect the pin and o-rings, especially the teflon o-ring.

Also, when you air up the marker with the safety on, is there a 1/16" (about the thickness of a credit card) between the back of the trigger and the tip of the trigger rod?

Edit: Hitting the hay for the night. Will check back in the am. Good luck.

[thejayare]

Wow, this is getting really weird. It's ULT bottom and a hacked RT top. (With ULT pin) No kidding. This is hopeless.

I need to find my other RT on/off, but I already know it probably won't work with the modified valve.

Edit: Sorry I was so slow. Thanks for all your help so far.

[flyingpootang]

I would use a depth gauge to see what the lowest point is near the on/off recess hole. It still may be possible to save it if it's still within specs....

[Spider-TW]

I would use a depth gauge to see what the lowest point is near the on/off recess hole. It still may be possible to save it if it's still within specs....
Since the ULT is made to be shimmed, there must be a little headroom at the top of that space normally. If the sides of the on/off cavity are still good, a ULT should still seal and work. If it were cut too deep you might still be able to put a washer on top if necessary.

Tuna would be your best bet. You might be able to send him a picture to see if it's worth sending to him.

There are guys that could fill it and re-mill it, but the normal cost for that skill would almost make it pointless for an old valve.

[Konigballer]

Who did you buy it off of here, cause thats pretty lame. :eek:

Where are you in TN? Do you play at MTP ever?

[thejayare]

Yeah, the more I look at it, the more I realize that trying to save it is probably more trouble and money than it is worth. I still plan to try a couple different o-ring setups but at this point, I'm not very optimistic.
I'm sure if I searched I could find out who sold me the valve, but it has been so long that I'm not really angry about it. I might go revise my feedback for the transaction, at most.

Konig-I'm in Murfreesboro, and I've been to MTP quite a few times, but not much recently. I'd like to get back out there though.

[Spider-TW]

If the ULT fit is almost there, you might be able to shave the edges off the top to custom fit the hole. :(

[thejayare]

True, could mod the ult top... Hadn't really thought of that.

[WickedKlown2]

thejayare,,,

Have you taken it to Elite Paintball (http://www.elitepaintball.com/About%20Us.html) in Smyrna ??? They are a AGD Dealer and Mrs. Bobbie if very knowledgeable with Mags... You might want to see what she can do for you... Also I am there most weekdays during lunch hanging out...

WickedKlown2

[russc]

I posted this on MCB in response to your post, but why don't you just finish off the drilling with a properly sized endmill?

[thejayare]

Klown- Haven't talked to Bobbie about it. She thinks Mags and pumps are dead. We know better. ;) I really to get over there and meet ya. Saw you were working on an Evil M. I'm really really jealous. I need 100% more AKA in my collection.

Russc- Yeah, definitely read that. If I can find a machinist, that's probably what I'll try, although I'm concerned that the original hack went too far near the recess.

[Tunaman]

I'll be glad to take a look at it. Might be able to mill it correctly. No promises. Email me at [email protected]