Honest Opinion of Difficulty of Pneumagging?

[OPBN]

Hello all, I have a classic valved mag with a double trigger Intelliframe that I am considering pneuing. I need honest opinions of exactly how hard this is to do correctly and what are the downsides if any? One of the reasons I really like my mag is that no matter what, I can pull it out, air it up and it goes. No electronics, nothing really to tinker with. Heck I haven't had to even adjust the velocity more than a quarter of a turn or so since I've had it. I am relatively handy and have modded the heck out of several Tippmanns, but for some reason the thought of drilling into my Intelliframe and risking doing it wrong is intimidating me.

I have read through several threads on the subject. Seems that most recommend using an RT on/off. Is this an RT Classic or RT pro on/off, or are they the same thing?


Thoughts?

[Dend78]

well i would say for never doing it yeah it would be a bit intimidating up front, but its really not that hard. the hardest part is figuring out where you want to put the LPR then getting your MPA3 set in the perfect spot.

if you are worried about it though send it to cyber, he can get you set up right. then when you get it back look it over and see what he did and you will see just how to do it in the future.

[xero28]

It is a bit intimidating at first, but I just said "screw it", I can't really mess up my trigger frame to the point it won't even work in standard mech. ;) If you're handy and have moded other guns and you're pretty comfortable with it, then yeah, go for it. Like Dend says, if you really want it set up perfect, send it off to Cyberave68 or Loguzzzzzzzzz (who really knows how many "z"s are in there?). They have TONS of success stories with pneus. I didn't really take as much time as I could have and I didn't have all of recommended tools (mill, drillpress, etc) but a good drill, some files, a steady hand and a good eye are really all you need. Good luck whichever way you go.

Oh yeah, if you're going to run with the classic valve the RT on/off does work well. I first pneu'd my classic and used the RT and worked just fine. I can't give you a definite answer whether the classic RT and RT Pro use the same on/off, but I would venture to say yes, they are the same. Anyone please correct me if I'm wrong.

-X

Edit: I just checked AGD's website and yes, the on/off is the same for the Classic RT and the RT Pro. :cheers:

[OPBN]

well i would say for never doing it yeah it would be a bit intimidating up front, but its really not that hard. the hardest part is figuring out where you want to put the LPR then getting your MPA3 set in the perfect spot.

if you are worried about it though send it to cyber, he can get you set up right. then when you get it back look it over and see what he did and you will see just how to do it in the future.

I saw that he offers all of the parts, just wasnt sure if he actually did install. For some reason drills and I don't always get along, so I will probably PM him to see what he charges.

I was just planning on putting the LPR directly onto the ASA and pipe thorugh the grip. I don't really care about hiding it. And the red highlight is one of the things that I am concerned about.

[rawbutter]

Let's put it this way. You're not really risking anything by doing it yourself. It's pretty hard to screw up a pneumag project if you take your time... but IF you do something wrong, you can always put your gun back together as a normal mech... and you'll just have a few holes as reminders of your failure. ;) Then, you can sell all the parts and get back most of your money.

The key is to just ask lots of questions. Getting the MPA and MSV in the right spot can be tricky.... but if you ask questions first, a lot of times you can avoid the headache of having to redo a part of the project. Don't rush into anything. Take the time to fully understand how everything works.

And then you could always send it away to someone else. Heck... for a song and dance, I'll build it for you. Having someone else build it for you is really something I wouldn't recommend, though, unless you have NO mechanical inclinations (or unless you have no time/patience to complete the project on your own). By the time you pay for shipping and for the working time of the person you hire, you could get yourself some nice little upgrades.

[rawbutter]

One of the reasons I really like my mag is that no matter what, I can pull it out, air it up and it goes.

I should add that I still love this about my pneumag. I air it up, and it works. I never adjust anything... and I can shoot as fast an any electro on semi-automatic. If only I could get my Halo to work the same way. :rolleyes:

[OPBN]

Is there an all in one "how to" thread on doing it? When I used the search feature, I found tons of threads, but it was like getting info from one thread and than skipping to another. My undiagnosed late onset ADD starts acting up.

And I don't like unnecessary holes in my markers. Especially if I am the one that put them there.

[rawbutter]

Is there an all in one "how to" thread on doing it?

I don't think there's a "how to" thread on here... at least not anymore.

Cyberave put up one on pblegion... and on bigevilonline, but you need to be a member to read that one.
http://www.pblegion.com/showthread.php?t=818

FiXel did a how-to website.
http://members.chello.nl/u.haarsma/Pneumag/

Pneumagger also did a video a long time ago that walks you through the MSV mounting process. I don't want to post the link here, though, or my website server might exceed its bandwidth. If you're interested, though, send me a PM and I can give you the link.

[xero28]

I pretty much just followed Cyber's "How To" when doing mine, very well explained and easy to follow. Looking at Cyber's "How To", remember that the MPA-3 (the piston/ram that acts on the sear) is already modified and put together when you buy the kit from him, so you don't have to worry about putting that part together.

-X

[Spider-TW]

I have to admit my pneumag has never been my primary marker and when my son was putting several cases through it we always had something else to fall back on. They are a little odd to trouble shoot, especially with a level 10 bolt. When something hangs up, you're ready to blame your pneu setup that you have been tweaking, but I've never actually had a problem with any of the pneu components. :confused:

Other than getting the MPA-3 the right distance from the sear, I think routing your hoses is the biggest pita. I sent my rail to Luke for an air channel, and I have used that rail ever since. The hoses in the frame require a fair amount of consideration to avoid kinks.

[MANN]

its not hard. there have been dozens of "how to" tutorials posted, but AO took most of them down (IMO due to PTP and their people). you can usually find alot with google.

If you can change your oil on your car you can make a pneumag. I have all of the original "how to" info saved somewhere. if you need it lmk.

[tweter]

this may be a stupid question but can you pnue a classic RT??

[MANN]

this may be a stupid question but can you pnue a classic RT??

I wouldn't see why not.

[rawbutter]

this may be a stupid question but can you pnue a classic RT??

Sure. I don't think I've seen a mech automag that hasn't been pneu-d yet. You can do it with Z-grips, Y-grips... whatever.

I've always wanted to do a classic RT, actually. You can use the air ports in the back of the rail to redirect some of the air into the LPR... like this.
http://www.rawbutter.com/images/paintball/IMG_0213.jpg

Seems like a fun way to do the mod. It's a lot easier than drilling and tapping one of the ASAs.

[tweter]

thats sweet i want to do that with mine and thanks for the pics

[OPBN]

I appreciate the input guys. The links helped, especially since the one actually has a CAD drawing or something that kind of fills in the blanks. Doesnt look too hard. I haven't tapped a hole before (sounds kind of dirty), but might give it a go.

I already have a MicroRock and CP on/off ASA that I had planned for an E-bolt project, so pretty much all I wouuld need is the actual Pneu Kit from Cyberave68 and possibly an RT on/off.

[Spider-TW]

I haven't tapped a hole before (sounds kind of dirty), but might give it a go.
:spit_take hit it, tap it, whatever...

At least one problem with a classic on/off is that the pressure required in the MPA-3 can start blowing the hose off the barbs if they aren't sharp, like the ones that come on ticklers. You also get some feedback on that higher pressure on your trigger from the msv.

[rawbutter]

I haven't tapped a hole before (sounds kind of dirty), but might give it a go.


It's not hard. Just don't do your first tap on your frame. Find a piece of junk metal that you can practice on. If you don't have anything lying around, pick up an aluminum bar from a hardware store. Tapping isn't especially hard, but it can be tricky to get it straight and not gum up the threads with all the shavings. You have to go in 1/2 a turn, and then come back out a quarter turn. Then go in half and out a quarter... and so on.

Tapping is quite fun, though. Now that I've learned how, it seems I'm always looking for an excuse to tap something. (Hmm.... we need an "evil genius" smilie here.)

[drewkroeker]

Tapping is quite fun, though. Now that I've learned how, it seems I'm always looking for an excuse to tap something. (Hmm.... we need an "evil genius" smilie here.)

lmao but as for the topic at hand, I think you can't go wrong with having cyberave68 or one of the other "pneumatic masters" on AO do your install. I just don't have the patience to find the perfect spot for the mpa3. If you can get yours to work, great. I bought a pnuemag that was originally made by pneumagger (I think) and I just left everything where it was, even though I wanted to take it apart and tinker with it. It shoots great so it's staying put together.

EDIT: One question of my own that I wanted to ask: Does it make a difference whether your on-off is a ULT or not?

[rawbutter]

EDIT: One question of my own that I wanted to ask: Does it make a difference whether your on-off is a ULT or not?

Not really. The difference is neglegable. It will require slightly higher psi from the LPR to trip an RT on/off, but only a little.

[cyberave68]

It's not hard. Just don't do your first tap on your frame. Find a piece of junk metal that you can practice on. If you don't have anything lying around, pick up an aluminum bar from a hardware store. Tapping isn't especially hard, but it can be tricky to get it straight and not gum up the threads with all the shavings. You have to go in 1/2 a turn, and then come back out a quarter turn. Then go in half and out a quarter... and so on.

Tapping is quite fun, though. Now that I've learned how, it seems I'm always looking for an excuse to tap something. (Hmm.... we need an "evil genius" smilie here.)
A trick for you in case you didnt already know... WD-40 is your friend when tapping through aluminum. Just give it a squirt and run it through.

Cy