Classic RT body and Emag lower

[pk5]

Hi everyone

Just a curious question:

How much of a problem would it be to put a classic RT body on an emag lower? Is the spacing different between a regular classic body and an rt body? Or is it just the position of the valve/rail?

Thanks

[secretweaponevan]

Hi everyone

Just a curious question:

How much of a problem would it be to put a classic RT body on an emag lower? Is the spacing different between a regular classic body and an rt body? Or is it just the position of the valve/rail?

Thanks

For one, you would have to drill out the rear hole in the emag lowers for the banjo bolt. This would pretty much make the emag lowers useless for most of the world.

I'd suggest just pneu'ing the classic RT.

[211]

If you drill out the rear hole for the banjo bolt, everything else lines up fine

[Riddler236]

For one, you would have to drill out the rear hole in the emag lowers for the banjo bolt. This would pretty much make the emag lowers useless for most of the world.

It's not a one-way mod. AGD makes a bushing for the rear grip frame hole that allows RT-specced grip frames to be used on other automags.

[pk5]

Banjo Bolt?

I don't intend to use the classic RT valve, i just like the classic rt body look and want to replace my current emag body with it.

In that case, i think i have to drill out one side of the classic rt body to accomodate the valve right?

What about on the bottom where the sear is, will that cause issues and should it be modified in someway?

[SkinnyHare]

you'll have to lop off the back end of the RT mainbody to get what you're wanting to do to work. the outside diameter of the RT valves are smaller than all the other kinds and were designed to slip inside the mainbody. i've seen pictures of people here on AO do just that and it seems to have worked for them. i don't recall seeing one of those modded RT bodies placed on an Emag yet, however.

i was contemplating mating the Emag lowers to a classic RT myself, drilling out room for the banjo bolt, 'n the whole 9 yards... until a Z grip came my way and i canceled that project.

[athomas]

The RT body fits perfectly on the rail but is too long at the back. If you measure carefully, you can use a pipe cutter or hack saw and shorten the back so that it ends at the same location as the standard body. You can be off by a tiny bit without much consequences. Its the field strip screw that locates the valve in the proper place.

[mostpeople]

Make sure you arent using the classic rail either...

didn't someone actually put emag lowers on a classic RT? I thought I saw that somewhere - anyone have the pic?

[calgar]

sure, it's been done. i don't have a pic, though, offhand. ><

[questionful]

You will have to saw off the back of the RT body. That's all. My classic RT body, and I assume all others, has a round nut for the front frame screw. Which is good, the round one is the reverse-compatible one.

Congratulations for realizing the sexiness of the RT body.

[atech2]

No. The RT has different dimensions not evident until you try to put it all together, more complicated then you think. I have done extensive measurements, after my first failed atempt at this kind project. Don't destroy a Classic RT body, there are others that need them.

[211]

here
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh13/RevSteel/100_7034.jpg
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=235555
gotta take some new pics
Lukes customs did their awesome vertfeed mod, add an ego clamper and no more stupid busted elbows

[atech2]

Nice 221. Problem facing pk5, sounds like the plan is using a Classic body with Emag valve and rail.

[pk5]

hmm ic, maybe going with a banjo bolt and an rt rail is the only way? either way i have an rt body coming soon so i'll see how that goes.

[atech2]

Don't get me wrong, it can be done, but unless you can take measurements and machine to .001 tolerences, getting it right would be difficult. This is the reason my ReTro fit project has taken over 6 months now, but I am determined which requires me to be patient. ;)

Fitting any standard frame on a RT Classic is rather simple, but trying to mate a different body or rail to RT Classic parts is where thing don't line up right.

[athomas]

hmm ic, maybe going with a banjo bolt and an rt rail is the only way? either way i have an rt body coming soon so i'll see how that goes.No, for what you are doing, all you need to do is cut the body to the proper length. You are using the body on an existing setup. The spacing for everything else on the RT body is the same as a regular emag, retromag, automag body. An RT rail would be a hassle though.

[atech2]

I beg to differ. I thought the same thing about the spacing, until I actually tried it. If you want to waste your money trying yourself, be my guest, but I hate seeing good bodies destroyed for no reason. To the eye they look the same, but they don't fit correctly. I personally took all the measurements, and compared to a RTP, after finding out they don't fit. They are not the same.

[athomas]

A lot of people have made the conversions with success. What dimensions are different?

[atech2]

Here are some pictures of the mock up of my project.
http://img106.imageshack.us/img106/6108/disassembled.jpg
http://img106.imageshack.us/img106/1039/mockup.jpg
The difference is where the frame screws are placeed on the rail and body in relation to the sear. Like I stated before, it can be done, but getting it to work properly is not a simple bolt on procedure.

[211]

I think the original poster is just looking to use a RT classic body with a RT pro valve and rail
in which case some careful measuring and either a pipe cutter or a hacksaw will cut the body to the desired length
the sear slot, twistlock hole, and the front screw should all line up fine

[atech2]

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/7629/automagcut.jpg
According to my measurements and comparisons, the front frame screw is spaced different in relation to all other components, (sear, twistlosck, etc...), on the RT Classic body and rail, then on other AGD markers.
I tried mixing parts and spent extensive efforts and money to determine the differences. I purchased both a complete RT Classic and RT Pro to make this determination. Just trying to help correctly answer these questions from what I have discovered though first hand research.

[atech2]

Measurements from twistlock hole to front frame screw.

RTP= 0.488 centered (or .258 between the two)

RT Classic = 0.522 centered ( or .292 between the two)

Please feel free to verify.
;)

[TeamBob]

random plug for me.

If any1 needs a extra classic Rt body for a project, i have 2 to choose from. Pm if interested..

Thought this might help in some1s project here...

[TeamBob]

random plug for me.

If any1 needs a extra classic Rt body for a project, i have 2 to choose from. Pm if interested..

Thought this might help in some1s project here...

[atech2]

Still looking for a buyer Bob? :rolleyes:

My suggestion to the original topic, do like 221 did. Just get a RT Classic and mount the lowers to that. Looks so cool, makes me consider doing it.

[pk5]

So right now i have an emag valve and a RT classic body.

What i would need is an RT classic rail, and a banjo bolt?

Can i just get a rail, drill a hole through the body, use an emag or rt pro valve, and air it directly? Without the hardline connector that goes into the rail?

Thanks

[atech2]

No, the RT valves are thinner to fit inside the body. Rt bodies and rails are only aligned to be used with each other.

If you have the Emag lowers, and really want to use an RT Classic body, sell everything else and buy a cheap RT Classic. Easier and cheaper, and will work better than any other option.

Bob was asking twice what you paid for that RT body, so you should get your money back out of it.

[TeamBob]

yup, and im in need of a little extra cash so i can try and come up with 1 of those new mag jerseys. Id take $35 shipped for my extra non-polished body ;) . pm if interested

[pk5]

So basically buy a classic RT, take the top body / rail / valve and sell the rest back on the market?

[atech2]

I would keep the sight rail, but that look is up to you. All the other parts are interchangable with other AGD markers, so you should be able to sell those easily.
If you go that direction, fitting Emag lowers is just as easy as modding a trigger frame.

[atech2]

yup, and im in need of a little extra cash so i can try and come up with 1 of those new mag jerseys. Id take $35 shipped for my extra non-polished body ;) . pm if interested
If you decide to come down to my $25 offer, LMK, but once I start my ReTro ULE project I won't need one anymore.