Xvalve set up

[AutomagRook]

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c137/Manny99/IMG00108.jpg

i want to buy a xvalve but this is my set up. Those two air connect pieces are loctite i think becuase i cant remove them. I dont mind going from asa to gas thru and then valve, i actually kinda like it. dont really like how asa to valve connection looks like. so my questions: is there a way to remove this or shoudl i get a similar connection that my classic valve has right now and put that on the xvalve? or should i get a new rail? i want the all black macroline look but i also dont want to spend money on a new rail.

the valve has a quick disconnect and doesnt give me any problems, i just dont like the way it looks, the metal hose is too long.

[Dend78]

try soaking the ends in hot hot water it may help loosen up the loctite

[AutomagRook]

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c137/Manny99/IMG00109.jpg

my new setup. thanks dend, the hot water worked

[Dend78]

oh yeah much better now you are talkin :dance:

[athomas]

You keep having to replace the macro line if you remove the valve alot. I always liked the stainless line myself. Yours was a little long though. It should have been an inch or two shorter.

[Dend78]

It should have been an inch or two shorter.

thats what she sai.....wait wait no she didnt :spit_take

[AutomagRook]

i bought this gun back in late 02 early 03. then i stopped playing and it sat in my closet for 5+ yrs. took it out this weekend and all the young kids had never heard of an automag and didnt know what kind of gun it was.

the steel hose is useful but ugly. i had tried many times before to remove it but it never budge until today. well see how it performs this weekend. all i need now is the black body, AA barrel that i bought from Dend and new orings everywhere.

[AutomagRook]

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c137/Manny99/IMG00144.jpg

my new marker after getting Dend's parts. you guys like the black or grey better?

[athomas]

I always like the black. If you use the right color accents, the grey can be really nice too.

[AutomagRook]

question: i dont remember if i have a gas thru or reg on my gun. can any of you guys tell by the pics? its Dye. how can i tell the diff between the two? also, if i want to change it what kind of reg/gas thru fits mags? and are regs better than gas thru? im running air not co2 on my gun.

[Watcher]

It is hard to tell by the pics, if they were lighter and clearer it might be easier.
If it is a reg it will have an adjustment screw on it somewhere, generally speaking it is near the bottom.
If you can't locate a screw, remove the grip and look down inside of it with a flashlight. If it is hollow it is air-thru. If you see brass, it is a regulator.

All regulators and forgrips with standard threads will fit Automags and any other ASA on the market with standard threads. To test it, if your grip/reg screws into where you screw your tank into (or vice-versa), it is standard threads.

Regs are nice because they actually will help to regulate the airflow to a certain PSI, the gas-thrus just allow air to pass and don't regulate at all.

The in-line regulation allows for really flat consistancy. This is great...

...However, unless you get a very high output regulator with a very fast recharge you can actually hinder the automag valve by starving it.
The automag valve back half is actually a small regulator, and it recharges so fast that it beats almost every other in-line regulator on the market!

Unless you use, like, a Palmers Stabalizer or something it is better to run automags without a second regulator.


But, a lot of it also depends on how fast you shoot. If you don't shoot more than, say, 8 balls per second I don't think the in-line regulator will starve the valve enough to cause any noticable drop in velocity.

If you want to run an in-line regulator, just do so at your own risk.

[AutomagRook]

We'll I have an emag valve coming tomorrow so hopefully ill be faster than 8bps. Doubt it has lv 10 so I'm also adding that and a ult. Reg recommended after all these parts are installed?

[Watcher]

We'll I have an emag valve coming tomorrow so hopefully ill be faster than 8bps. Doubt it has lv 10 so I'm also adding that and a ult. Reg recommended after all these parts are installed?


Still not recommended, especially if it is a valve with RT capability because it needs that lightning fast recharge rate to reset the trigger fast enough to allow you to RT it.

Anything slowing the air down in the line can cause it to have major shoot-down when firing fast.

[AutomagRook]

how fast can an emag valve and emag valve with ult shoot? i dont want to go crazy on paint cause i consider that a waste of money. i only play one or twice a month so im debating if i really need a ult. cause if i get a ult i will also need to get a lv 10. i dont wanna be one of those guys that uses more than half a case of paint a day. thats too expensive for me. thanks

[Watcher]

The ULT is designed to eliminate the RT effect, so it is 1 shot per pull, you can't sweetspot and get a full-auto like effect.

That being said, if you can walk 15bps it will shoot 15bps.

It all depends on you.

[AutomagRook]

i just got my emag valve that i bought from ebay! it came with a lv 10 for $80!!! this valve is ridiculously fast! i did have a few chops though so im guessing the lv 10 needs adjusting. i doubt ill get the ult now. my hopper (old empire reloader) doesnt seem to be able to keep up with the valve let alone a ult. i have a blade trigger, if i pull by the bottom where its curved it shoots one ball at a time, but if i hold it higher, the trigger just bounces really fast. i cant wait to go to the field this saturday.