Bolt stick/not resetting

[WARHEAD]

It seems that my lvl 10 bolt does not like to reset properly all the time. Sometimes it fires fine, other times I need to stick my finger in the neck and push the bolt back. Could this be caused by too many shims in the ULT?

I have tried using a stronger spring, and it still does not reset every few shots.

[211]

use the largest level X carrier that doesnt leak

[WARHEAD]

use the largest level X carrier that doesnt leak

Maybe I don't have the proper carriers... I have a set of 8 if I include the one that is being used in the gun at the moment. The one that is in the gun I believe has no lines or dots on it, the next one I have has 1 line, then 1 line 1 dot, etc. etc.

Is the carrier I'm using the biggest, or smallest?


Edit: I moved from the carrier that was being used (no lines no dots) to the carrier with 1 line and no dots. When the gun is gassed it leaks down the barrel, but does not leak when the trigger is held.

Edit 2: removed shims from ULT, the bolt doesn't seem to stick now... is this normal?

[Watcher]

If the carrier with no marks is causing bolt stick and the one with a line and no dots leaks, you should use the one with no lines and one dot.


If you don't have that one, you can try a different o-ring as they are all different sizes.

[WARHEAD]

If the carrier with no marks is causing bolt stick and the one with a line and no dots leaks, you should use the one with no lines and one dot.


If you don't have that one, you can try a different o-ring as they are all different sizes.

I don't have the one with no lines and 1 dot.

But regardless, removing 1 shim from the ULT fixed the problem... Is it completely unrelated, or is this how it is supposed to behave?

[flyingpootang]

Removing a ULT shim shouldn't affect your bolt restting. If you have a ULE body look inside of your body where you insert the valve to see if there is any scrapping on the insde. If there is your body maybe bent and loosening the thumb screw to remove a shim from the ULT may have cured your problem temporarly.

[WARHEAD]

Removing a ULT shim shouldn't affect your bolt restting. If you have a ULE body look inside of your body where you insert the valve to see if there is any scrapping on the insde. If there is your body maybe bent and loosening the thumb screw to remove a shim from the ULT may have cured your problem temporarly.

There is no scraping on the inside. I had a friend take a look at it today (long time mag owner) and not only did he show me I needed to use way more oil that I thought would be sufficient (which, honestly, isn't really a downside at all) and fixed the bolt sticking, in about 3 seconds he was able to figure out the sweet spot on my trigger, and using a ULT I managed a very easily activated sweetspot that gives me 19bps over the chrono from a crossfire 800psi regulator. Also, after giving it the oil it had been starving for, I chronographed for velocity, and was surprised by the results: 250, 250, 250, 249, 249... I have never fired a more consistent marker in my life.

I don't think Ill ever own anything but a Mag for the rest of my life....

[flyingpootang]

I don't think Ill ever own anything but a Mag for the rest of my life....

LOL. I hope you have deep pockets since there are so many different mags out there. I still find my self buying classic mags just because it was a great deal and I came up with another project idea... :cheers:

[Watcher]

LOL. I hope you have deep pockets since there are so many different mags out there. I still find my self buying classic mags just because it was a great deal and I came up with another project idea... :cheers:

I hear that!

A RT classic was my gateway mag, I soon after (only a day of play with the RT) got a RTPro I am building/modding and I am on the preorder Micromag list with aspiraions of an E-Micro.

I am selling the RT classic to afford a big game next month, yet I still want a classic/mini mag and very likely more if not yet another RT classic...

[WARHEAD]

I hear that!

A RT classic was my gateway mag, I soon after (only a day of play with the RT) got a RTPro I am building/modding and I am on the preorder Micromag list with aspiraions of an E-Micro.

I am selling the RT classic to afford a big game next month, yet I still want a classic/mini mag and very likely more if not yet another RT classic...


The problem is I started out with a more ore less RPG mag... and damn that cost me enough.... I'm scared of what my next adventure will be...

[Flatliner333]

I have the same problem on a used Mag I bought.I think it had an RT sear "with the nub behind the bolt lip" in a stock rail.I would have to push the bolt back to get it to reset. I took the nub off the sear and I hope this fixes my problem.

[Ruler_Mark]

check the top oring on the on/off make sure it hasnt been pinched.

[NU_METAL]

I didnt read every thread all the way through so if someone said this already ,i apologize in advance .so w / that said ,.............

i had a agd ule body one time w/ the DETENT screwed in too far making the bolt not want to reset ,it drove me crazy until something told me to loosen it .if that thin black "O" ring is not on it , it can be threaded in too far
that did the trick for me :bounce:

[AUTOMAGOMATIC]

You May Need To Shorten The Sear Rod