Pneumag Questions

[om3n]

So I have decided I want to up the ROF of my mag. Right now I have an xvalve and a ULT on/off, and I also have an RT on/off. My tank outputs 800 psi (can't rt on 800 psi); I have an i-reg, and I am looking for a 1000 psi output piston for the ireg so I can start rt'ing.

So this is what I am wondering; what happens when you try to RT with a pneumatic frame? Is it even possible?

I just watched pneumagger's video below on youtube, and it looks to me like this mag is going true fully automatic. How is this done with a pneumatic frame? Is there a way to make a pneumatic frame fully automatic at all?

Thanks guys

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[rawbutter]

That video wasn't a "look at what I can do with my pneumag" video. It was a "what the crap is wrong with my pneumag" video. Pneumags aren't supposed to do that. I know I saw pneumagger explain it once, but I don't remember what the problem was.

Pneumags don't/can't go full auto. That's not what they're designed for. Mine is so freaking sensative that sometimes it shoots out two shots for one pull, but that's more of a happy accident that I haven't figured out yet.

If you want maximum rate of fire, just find a higher output piston or whatever and have fun with the RT. It's a lot cheaper than a pneumag. People do the pneumag conversion when they want high rate of fire but are not allowed to use the RT effect (like at most public fields).

[om3n]

That video wasn't a "look at what I can do with my pneumag" video. It was a "what the crap is wrong with my pneumag" video. Pneumags aren't supposed to do that. I know I saw pneumagger explain it once, but I don't remember what the problem was.

Pneumags don't/can't go full auto. That's not what they're designed for. Mine is so freaking sensative that sometimes it shoots out two shots for one pull, but that's more of a happy accident that I haven't figured out yet.

If you want maximum rate of fire, just find a higher output piston or whatever and have fun with the RT. It's a lot cheaper than a pneumag. People do the pneumag conversion when they want high rate of fire but are not allowed to use the RT effect (like at most public fields).

oh ha ha

ok thanks for the reply- When looking at this video, the comments and the title led me to believe it was a pneumag modded for full auto fire. Thanks for the clarification... the field I want to start playing at doesn't allow rt either, so I was considering buying a used pneuframe for using at that field anyways, and I wasn't aware if you could make a pneu frame automatic or not. For now I'm going to be looking for a 1000 psi output piston though... to start out with at least.


I now understand.

I wish I could find someone who uses a pneumag just to try it out... since I'm using a q-loader, I'm not sure if I want to use full auto right now anyways because of how fast I will run out of paint with only 100 rounds. If I could use get a pneuframe and learn how to walk it perfectly, that might work better for me, I don't know.

[Mongoose]

oh ha ha

ok thanks for the reply- When looking at this video, the comments and the title led me to believe it was a pneumag modded for full auto fire. Thanks for the clarification... the field I want to start playing at doesn't allow rt either, so I was considering buying a used pneuframe for using at that field anyways, and I wasn't aware if you could make a pneu frame automatic or not. For now I'm going to be looking for a 1000 psi output piston though... to start out with at least.


I now understand.

I wish I could find someone who uses a pneumag just to try it out... since I'm using a q-loader, I'm not sure if I want to use full auto right now anyways because of how fast I will run out of paint with only 100 rounds. If I could use get a pneuframe and learn how to walk it perfectly, that might work better for me, I don't know.

Come down to tunaball and you can try out mine ;)

[om3n]

Come down to tunaball and you can try out mine ;)


I'm sure I could just look this up, but what sort of ROF do you guys get out of your pneumags?

[crazyjoe12]

where do you normaly play at? im also from michigan and one of my mags is Pnue'd. If your not too far i would not mind letting you test it out. :cheers:

[om3n]

where do you normaly play at? im also from michigan and one of my mags is Pnue'd. If your not too far i would not mind letting you test it out. :cheers:


I play woodsball at my house actually :p

I know it may seem lame, but seriously me and a bunch of my friends have our own course set up and that's where we normally play. When we don't play there, we play at Hell Survivors. I want to go there at least 3 or so times this summer; I couldn't go to day of the rangers, but the next big game I plan on going too. But we play usually every 3 weeks at my house.

[MKing]

That's not lame at all. My favorite days are on private property with friends. Of course you can set your own rules too (such as rt being legal).

[Spider-TW]

If you take a mag that is already working with RT and pneu it, you can usually set the lpr so that the ram can ride the sear for you and you'll have a full auto marker. It is not a reliable operating pressure for the lpr / ram and you can end up with no shot or multiple shots when you pull the trigger.

It's pretty pointless, since you had a working RT to start with, but it is kind of interesting as an experiment. I know a guy that would reset his lpr by making his mag run in RT then add about a quarter turn above that.

[om3n]

If you take a mag that is already working with RT and pneu it, you can usually set the lpr so that the ram can ride the sear for you and you'll have a full auto marker. It is not a reliable operating pressure for the lpr / ram and you can end up with no shot or multiple shots when you pull the trigger.

It's pretty pointless, since you had a working RT to start with, but it is kind of interesting as an experiment. I know a guy that would reset his lpr by making his mag run in RT then add about a quarter turn above that.


So you can take a mag that RT's, pneu it, and it will act fully automatic because it will sort of act like an autotrigger if it's tuned correctly, right? That was actually my original question... I wasn't sure, but I thought it was possible. Is that indeed what your saying?

[Spider-TW]

So you can take a mag that RT's, pneu it, and it will act fully automatic because it will sort of act like an autotrigger if it's tuned correctly, right? That was actually my original question... I wasn't sure, but I thought it was possible. Is that indeed what your saying?
Yes. You're setting the pressure to equal the tension you would put on the trigger with your finger. However, if it couldn't RT before being pneu'd, it won't RT after.

The problem is that lprs cannot compensate for changes like you might with your finger. The guy that I saw tuning his classic RT pneu by RTing first said he had tried to play that way once and he had to keep adjusting the lpr on the field. It is the same thing, but you're trying to sweetspot with a wrench instead of your finger. Depending on the condition of your on/off and other things, that first trigger pull can be harder than the tension needed to RT. You can't kick start your RT with an lpr. :argh:

The combination of a good RT setup and pneumatics is kind of a waste and begs to be two different mags. It actually spawned two other mags in my house (three mags from that adventure including the original pneu). :rolleyes:

[om3n]

Yes. You're setting the pressure to equal the tension you would put on the trigger with your finger. However, if it couldn't RT before being pneu'd, it won't RT after.

The problem is that lprs cannot compensate for changes like you might with your finger. The guy that I saw tuning his classic RT pneu by RTing first said he had tried to play that way once and he had to keep adjusting the lpr on the field. It is the same thing, but you're trying to sweetspot with a wrench instead of your finger. Depending on the condition of your on/off and other things, that first trigger pull can be harder than the tension needed to RT. You can't kick start your RT with an lpr. :argh:

The combination of a good RT setup and pneumatics is kind of a waste and begs to be two different mags. It actually spawned two other mags in my house (three mags from that adventure including the original pneu). :rolleyes:


Well I think i might just have to buy a pneu frame for my gun. I am already pm'ing someone who is selling theirs :)

So what do I have to do to the sear/rest of the mag in order to use the pneuframe? Do I just pull the arm off the sear and slap on the pneu frame or is there more too it? The frame I'm looking at already has an lpr and asa, so I don't have to assemble those. I'm sure I'm going to have to tweak the lpr of course- how would I best go about doing that? should I keep the pressure as low as possible- what do I need to know before I get started with this pneu frame, if I do indeed buy one?

[gunangel]

you'll have to pull the sear celvis and trigger rod out if it's a drop in type frame. you will of course need to purchase and install the pneumatics if it doesn't have them. you want the frame to be running as low as possible for three big reasons. one is to not blow the pneumatics/hosing, the second is to keep the amount you leech from your tank at a minimum, and the third is the input pressure of the lpr has a very large effect in how hard it will be to pull the trigger (relatively of course).

actually you can replicate that full auto effect fairly easily, it just depends on the sensitivity/consistency of your lpr, length of trigger rod, and how bouncy you have your mag set. i had both my rt valve with an rt on/off do that and my x-valve with the ult do the same. with my x-valve i've even isolated a response type mode and a multi shot mode (2-3), but i was running the almighty ccm lpr for those feats.

max ROF usually no more than 10 when i play. i have played with it and had it go up to the insane 30+ with a 950 input, missing top o-ring, and pneumatically controlled full auto, pretty neat but scary at the same time lol

[Spider-TW]

Well I think i might just have to buy a pneu frame for my gun. I am already pm'ing someone who is selling theirs :)

So what do I have to do to the sear/rest of the mag in order to use the pneuframe? Do I just pull the arm off the sear and slap on the pneu frame or is there more too it? The frame I'm looking at already has an lpr and asa, so I don't have to assemble those. I'm sure I'm going to have to tweak the lpr of course- how would I best go about doing that? should I keep the pressure as low as possible- what do I need to know before I get started with this pneu frame, if I do indeed buy one?
You usually want the lpr as low as possible. Start with it backed out a lot and then increase until the sear trips and then add a quarter turn or so.

Search the tech forum for pneu and pneumag, and check out the various problems people have. A lot of times you may blame the pneumatics, but the problem is often the typical mag hang-ups. Knowing what problems are not from the pneumatics cuts your troubles greatly.

For a ready built frame, watch for the sear clearance. Treat the sear / ram like you would the trigger-rod / trigger and make sure the sear is allowed to come all the way forward. It's best if the ram hits the sear near the bottom to keep the lpr set low, but it seems to work a little higher up as well. If you get too high the sear may not clear anyway. Those are the two most common problems, I think.

Be aware that you can still chuff a pneumag. I could never run and walk a pneu trigger at the same time. :tard:

[om3n]

You usually want the lpr as low as possible. Start with it backed out a lot and then increase until the sear trips and then add a quarter turn or so.

Search the tech forum for pneu and pneumag, and check out the various problems people have. A lot of times you may blame the pneumatics, but the problem is often the typical mag hang-ups. Knowing what problems are not from the pneumatics cuts your troubles greatly.

For a ready built frame, watch for the sear clearance. Treat the sear / ram like you would the trigger-rod / trigger and make sure the sear is allowed to come all the way forward. It's best if the ram hits the sear near the bottom to keep the lpr set low, but it seems to work a little higher up as well. If you get too high the sear may not clear anyway. Those are the two most common problems, I think.

Be aware that you can still chuff a pneumag. I could never run and walk a pneu trigger at the same time. :tard:

So are they very finicky systems? I would be buying a pneu'd frame (intelliframe), so in case it ever screwed up on me I will always have my stock intelli as a backup.

Would I be better off using the ULT on/off or the RT on/off? I do have both

[Mongoose]

I'm sure I could just look this up, but what sort of ROF do you guys get out of your pneumags?

My p-mags are capped by the user...meaning they shoot as fast as you can pull the trigger...i have hit 15+ on mine

[om3n]

My p-mags are capped by the user...meaning they shoot as fast as you can pull the trigger...i have hit 15+ on mine


p-mag? What's that?

[trevorjk]

P = Pnue = Pneumatic

P-Mag = Pneumatic Mag like you are refering to

[om3n]

P = Pnue = Pneumatic

P-Mag = Pneumatic Mag like you are refering to

ah I see :p

well seeing how there are x-mags, e-mags, ego-mags, spyder-mags, pneumags, and a whole slew of other mags, I didn't know if p-mag meant something totally different :) Thanks for the clarification :)

[Spider-TW]

So are they very finicky systems? I would be buying a pneu'd frame (intelliframe), so in case it ever screwed up on me I will always have my stock intelli as a backup.

Would I be better off using the ULT on/off or the RT on/off? I do have both
I don't think they are finicky at all. I was surprised how well it works, even though I would continually rearrange things for years to make it work for me in actual play. I would let my son play test it for me so that I could watch the performance more objectively. He started on a cheap electro and has good coordination between his trigger fingers. I play single frame RT, classic mags and pumps mostly, and never ran an electro before I tried a pneu. My middle finger goes for grip when I get in a hurry.

Pneus are very light on the trigger with almost no feed back. Cyberave's magnet mod kit helps that a lot in case your frame is too light. As you get to your limit on ROF with a pneu, you get more ball collisions where the valve didn't recharge quite enough and the ball goes slow. The next ball comes out at regular speed and catches up to the slow ball (with a good paint explosion). Shooting around 11 bps at the chrony station without trouble is easy. Trying to shoot my way out of a pinch on broken ground is not the time when I want to think about "technique" or which marker I'm carrying.

I still have that pneu, it's just an electro-pneu which compensates for my handicap. :D

[gunangel]

shorter length barrels will help with the collision and a broken in reg should help solve the fast/slow ball issue very well. it also helps to have as much return tension as you can handle. i find a set of magnets plus a spring or another set of magnets does the trick.

once they are setup they rarely need much maintenance, they get a little bit of oil from when you oil your asa so it should be self maintaining.

[om3n]

Well I bought the pneuframe I was looking at :headbang: I can't wait to get it!! I'll post here if I have any problems/questions about it when it arrives.


Here is the frame I just bought:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=242494


http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h159/sandro79/SDC14849.jpg

[Mongoose]

Looks like you bought one that was built by Cyberave68..............You shouldn't have any problems at all :cheers:

[chafnerjr]

I don't think they are finicky at all. I was surprised how well it works, even though I would continually rearrange things for years to make it work for me in actual play. I would let my son play test it for me so that I could watch the performance more objectively. He started on a cheap electro and has good coordination between his trigger fingers. I play single frame RT, classic mags and pumps mostly, and never ran an electro before I tried a pneu. My middle finger goes for grip when I get in a hurry.

Pneus are very light on the trigger with almost no feed back. Cyberave's magnet mod kit helps that a lot in case your frame is too light. As you get to your limit on ROF with a pneu, you get more ball collisions where the valve didn't recharge quite enough and the ball goes slow. The next ball comes out at regular speed and catches up to the slow ball (with a good paint explosion). Shooting around 11 bps at the chrony station without trouble is easy. Trying to shoot my way out of a pinch on broken ground is not the time when I want to think about "technique" or which marker I'm carrying.

I still have that pneu, it's just an electro-pneu which compensates for my handicap. :D


Boy I don't know about any drop off on mine. I had my frame built by cyberave68 last year and I've had that well over 11BPS without any drop at all. It's just like a mech cocker... if you short stroke the three way the your going to have drop. The mag mod helps to eliminate this... but it's mostly down to shooter training as long as you have a nice LPR. (I'm rockin' a brand new AKA SCMIII !!!)

[Spider-TW]

Boy I don't know about any drop off on mine. I had my frame built by cyberave68 last year and I've had that well over 11BPS without any drop at all. It's just like a mech cocker... if you short stroke the three way the your going to have drop. The mag mod helps to eliminate this... but it's mostly down to shooter training as long as you have a nice LPR. (I'm rockin' a brand new AKA SCMIII !!!)
Oh, for sure I didn't mean the limit on ROF from the pneu, I mean your fingers. The drop off I was talking about is from short stroking when your fingers hit their limit. That is the impressive part of a pneu, you're talking about short stroking somewhere above 11 to 15 bps. That's why I put electrical controls in mine, I had done everything mechanically possible and wasn't willing to shoot the marker enough to keep my fingers trained. I had tried an x-valve with RT and ULT on/offs too, and I got tired of seeing my son shoot ropes on the field with my mag. For my electro, I used everything from my original classic pneu setup except for the msv-2 so that I could see the difference. Now when I screw up the trigger pull I just loose a shot.

It's a personal "handicap", but I suspect some people that have not liked their pneu-mags had the same problem. They often blame the mechanics of the setup, but you don't know what kind of fingers you have until you try the raw, unfiltered fire power of a pneu-mag. :p

[Spider-TW]

Looks like you bought one that was built by Cyberave68..............You shouldn't have any problems at all :cheers:
Yep.

It is a pretty good indicator when you can spot his handy work from a picture. :hail:

[om3n]

Yep.

It is a pretty good indicator when you can spot his handy work from a picture. :hail:


lol indeed guys, it was built by cyberave. How can you tell by a picture?? I'm glad you guys approve though :p

I almost decided on building my own, but since new frames cost so much money and I don't have a drill press at my house, I didn't want to mess up a 115 dollar frame by a mistake I may make :tard:

[Spider-TW]

A good pneu frame is mostly about the geometry of the component mounting. Getting a ram to work with an lpr and 3-way is easy, making it clean, fast and comfy is the trick.

Cyberave found his style a while back and you'll see a lot of the same angles, milling, and holes in his frames, especially compared to all of the first-timer frames we AO'ers have built.

[om3n]

Got the pneuframe

So... honestly I'm sort of disappointed :/

When I first got it, the lever that the trigger rod pushes against was totally off center and half the time when I would pull the trigger the rod would come off the lever :(

So it definitely wasn't in working condition... maybe the previous owner fired it a few times, but there is no way it was playable. So I spent quite a while trying to figure out what I could do to make it work right... and after about an hour of messing with it I decided to put one screw in the thing/valve that the lever is connected too and then swivel it into the correct position, and then hot glue it in place (sorry for my lack of technical terms, and yes hot gluing did work. One day I will do a more permanent attachment, but for now the hot glue seems to work). In fact if it was Cyberave who did this pne-mod, most of the hardware was glued in place anyways. So first of all, what sort of glue do you guys use, if any, for this application?

Also after I got everything connected, I tried to rapid fire and it would chuff like mad. I figured I was starving the gun because of my remote, so I put the tank directly on my gun and the thing fired as fast as I could pull the trigger :) However, I couldn't walk it for anything. I don't know why, but for some reason I just can't. Maybe I need more practice? I almost think that the trigger pull is SO light that it makes it difficult to walk... so I just readjusted my trigger stops and put a clicky pen spring I cut in between the stop on the back of the trigger and the frame, and that I think will help with the trigger returning fast enough to be walkable.

I will post more later and upload some pictures later

[chafnerjr]

Could you post a picture of the frame? Cyberave mounted everything in my frame by bolting or screwing them down... but I'm sure that various expoxy's or the gel type of superglue would work just fine. That's how I'll be mounting my QEV next week...

Get us a picture and we will probably be able to point to your issue... how much space is there between the trigger and the trigger rod? Is the 3way pushing the trigger out all the way? Perhaps the magmod is your solution?!?!?

[Spider-TW]

Cyberave used to do partial jobs and fixes as well, I think. He used to offer to straighten up poor setups.

He is working OT (which I guess is a good thing considering) and BigEvil is slave driving him for Tunaball3 as well. ;)

It looks like you have a magnet mod on there; did you try adjusting the magnets before you added the spring?

If the actuating rod between the trigger and the MSV-2 arm is sliding off, it may need to be a larger diameter to keep it from moving.

[mag79]

call me I'll help you out. I dry fired the frame on my gun multiple times and never had the rod come off. You should be able to slide the mounting braket up to avoid the rod from coming off. Dont forget to adjust the lpr.

[om3n]

call me I'll help you out. I dry fired the frame on my gun multiple times and never had the rod come off. You should be able to slide the mounting braket up to avoid the rod from coming off. Dont forget to adjust the lpr.


I realize it's not your fault dude, I'm sure it did fire when you tried it, but the lever on the 3way would fall away from trigger rod if you held the gun at an angle.

I'm working on it right now... I just picked up some epoxy and I just remounted the magnet mod.... In a bit I'm going to epoxy the 3way onto the bracket it was screwed on before in the same way I used hot-glue as a temporary fix. I'll do this by applying epoxy onto the side of the 3way, screwing in the top screw, and then pivoting it into position and allowing it to dry like that. That will hold it down and it will work fine as a permanent fix I'm sure.

Thanks for the help guys; I'll post a picture later. I will get this thing working properly!!! :shooting:

[Spider-TW]

Besides getting the frame working, keep in mind a few things;

1) There is some technique involved in walking a pneu cleanly. You may already have it, or you may need some practice. The better the setup, the easier it is. The trigger is "electro-light" but not electro; it's a pneu-mag.

2) You kind of said this before; if you put it on a mag that you only played with a standard on/off, non-reactive before, you may find some starvation problems with the air system when you double your output. :argh: It has nothing to do with the pneu frame, but the faster you go the better the valve has to breathe. No skinny hoses or pinhole ASAs.

3) Hope you have something to feed it paint.

[om3n]

Besides getting the frame working, keep in mind a few things;

1) There is some technique involved in walking a pneu cleanly. You may already have it, or you may need some practice. The better the setup, the easier it is. The trigger is "electro-light" but not electro; it's a pneu-mag.

2) You kind of said this before; if you put it on a mag that you only played with a standard on/off, non-reactive before, you may find some starvation problems with the air system when you double your output. :argh: It has nothing to do with the pneu frame, but the faster you go the better the valve has to breathe. No skinny hoses or pinhole ASAs.

3) Hope you have something to feed it paint.


1) I plan on learning the technique. I do think that's the problem with my inability to walk the thing. It seem much harder to walk than an electro.

2) also I am afraid I am still starving it because I refuse to play without a remote :( I'm gonna have to figure out what to do about this.... would a higher output on my tank reg help solve this? I think my starving the gun also contributes to my inability to walk it.

3) I have a qloader- no problems feeding it. I probably have the most insane setup out of anyone I know lol every time I walk into my proshop with this mag everyone does a double take and talks to me about it :p

[Barsse]

I have a question as well. For the trigger rod, I saw some that have it coming at an angle from the top of the trigger (need to drill at an angle), and some from the middle going horizontally toward the MSV-2 lever. Is there a big difference?

I can see how in chimera frame coming from the top is still pushing o the rod almost horizontally, but in intelliframe my concern is that if I come at angle, the pushing is done through the curved part of the trigger, so the wear will be stronger, whereas I think if I do it in horizontal way, flat part of the trigger is perpendicular to rod, so all the movement is directed straight to the MSV-2 lever, yet the travel distance will be larger as well. So my question is... does it make a big difference how the rod goes, as long as it still hits the top part of the lever? :ninja:

[om3n]

Question guys...

so when I pull and hold trigger, I can hear gas leaking around the piston. What can I do to fix that?

[om3n]

Question guys...

so when I pull and hold trigger, I can hear gas leaking around the piston. What can I do to fix that?


really I would like to get this fixed... I am playing later today!! Should I just apply some grease to the piston or does it need to be mounted closer to the sear or what should I do?

Thanks again guys!

[rawbutter]

Your leak is normal. A good pneumag "leaks" when the trigger is depressed. It's venting air to prevent a build-up. Most of the time, you're just tapping the trigger anyway, so you don't have to worry about how much air you're losing.

[rawbutter]

does it make a big difference how the rod goes, as long as it still hits the top part of the lever? :ninja:

I doubt this makes a big difference. My pneumag trigger rod is almost perfectly horizontal, and I can walk my trigger perfectly, but some of the other guys (like cyberave and loguzzzzz) tend to put more of an angle in there. I'm sure there is a difference, but it's so minute you won't notice.

[cyberave68]

Looks like you bought one that was built by Cyberave68..............You shouldn't have any problems at all :cheers:
Sorry goose thats not my build. Those are my parts but i didnt do that one....

[om3n]

Sorry goose thats not my build. Those are my parts but i didnt do that one....

Yeah honestly whoever did do it didn't seem to do a great job. :/ I had to put alot of work into to it to get it where it's at... I was told it was done by you Cyberave and that was extremely important to me before i bought it. I'm actually quite ticked



I had to re-glue the one of the magnets which came off extremely easily, re-glue the bracket that mounts the magnet to the 3way which also came off extremely easily, I had to remount the 3way onto the bracket that is attached to the back of the frame, and that bracket is not even centered correctly :/ It works quite well now, but when I bought it, it wasn't in the condition it was advertised in nor was it built by the person that the seller claimed it was built by

[mag79]

om3n we had several pm between the both of us before I sold you the frame. I never rushed you and told you to take your time in considering this frame. All the information I passed on to you is true. The original owner said it was build for him by cyberave68 some time ago. Take detail pictures of every single piece of the frame, inside outside and post them. Then see what cyberave68 will say. I told you in one of the pm's tha he does great work. That frame is flawless. The only thing I did was change the barbs from plastic to nickle. You can still call me and I can help you out.

[om3n]

om3n we had several pm between the both of us before I sold you the frame. I never rushed you and told you to take your time in considering this frame. All the information I passed on to you is true. The original owner said it was build for him by cyberave68 some time ago. Take detail pictures of every single piece of the frame, inside outside and post them. Then see what cyberave68 will say. I told you in one of the pm's tha he does great work. That frame is flawless. The only thing I did was change the barbs from plastic to nickle. You can still call me and I can help you out.

I just pm'd you, but I'm totally serious when I say it was not in playable condition when I got it. I did spend a good couple hours messing with it to get it playable.

Cyberave, I'm going to post some detailed pictures of the frame tomorrow and if you have time please confirm if you did build the frame. Thanks

And mag79, I'm not trying to be a jerk, I am right now sharing my true experience about the frame.

[mag79]

cool, let me know what you need. I'll help you out.