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View Full Version : spydermag question i cant find answer to...



hairyviking
06-21-2009, 12:15 PM
i know.... a lot of people have asked the same questions, but i cant seem to find any thread that awnswers mine...
i have a spyder rsx frame, similar to the vs frame. it has the vertical(ish) noid instead of the horizontal noid... i was just curious if anyone knew how to mod one to work for a mag, or if there is a link out there to a how to for these frsmes...
thanks in advance!

pic of my frame:
http://i553.photobucket.com/albums/jj371/hairyviking/paintball070.jpg

afortuna
06-21-2009, 12:51 PM
I've never done it, so salt might be in order. Looks like you'll have to cut the frame to rotate the noid. You may have to fabricate a custom bracket. Looks like a fun profect. Best of luck with it and I hope you get more solid experienced advice.

hairyviking
06-21-2009, 09:42 PM
thanks for the input... already played with the idea of cutting the frame to fit the noid on its side, but would rather find a way for it to work the way it is.

more advice please!!!

flyingpootang
06-22-2009, 01:21 AM
From looking at your noid position you may be able to have the existing sear actuate the automag sear leg by having the Spyder sear rub against the AGD sear leg in a downward movement. You may need to trim either the Spyder sear, AGD sear leg or both. The only down side would be eventual wear with the 2 parts rubbing against each other. Although using grease on the sear leg may extend the sear life.....

hairyviking
06-22-2009, 07:31 AM
From looking at your noid position you may be able to have the existing sear actuate the automag sear leg by having the Spyder sear rub against the AGD sear leg in a downward movement. You may need to trim either the Spyder sear, AGD sear leg or both. The only down side would be eventual wear with the 2 parts rubbing against each other. Although using grease on the sear leg may extend the sear life.....


yeah, also played with that. i will have to relocate the pivot point on the spyder sear to hit the agd sear in the right spot. that is currently my best option. thanks.

any other ideas?

Flatliner333
07-02-2009, 10:09 AM
Here is what I did with mine, just another option you might consider.The sears I fabricated did not last long as the AGD sear is much harder than the metal I was using.The bolt would wear down the lip on the homemade sears.I ended up cutting the sear rod arm off the stock sear and welding one further back.Good luck. :headbang:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLXkyW3UC0o


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84VJTrtYAiY


<a href="http://s382.photobucket.com/albums/oo263/patrickmason/?action=view&current=SolinoidMod.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo263/patrickmason/SolinoidMod.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>





This is not to scale but is basically what I did to my Rocking Trigger Frame.You would have to hollow out the center of the frame looking down from the top cutting close to the back of the grip to make room for the sear arm.Also cut out the left and right side of the solinoid box frame.If you are using an older Mag body you have to hollow out up in the front of the frame for the barrel guide assy.Then you have to cut the rod arm off the Automag sear and weld another one further back.

Flatliner333
07-06-2009, 08:40 PM
OK the weld did not hold up the way I showed in the previous picture I got in a hurry. I will let you know how this weld works out.It should hold with more weld area in more surface areas on the sear.


<a href="http://s382.photobucket.com/albums/oo263/patrickmason/?action=view&current=rsxframesearmod.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo263/patrickmason/rsxframesearmod.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

hairyviking
07-06-2009, 09:53 PM
yes, this is the route i have gone... just need a sear now!

Flatliner333
07-09-2009, 02:13 PM
yes, this is the route i have gone... just need a sear now!

OK I wanted to let you know how it was going.I welded the newly designed arm on the agd sear and it looks like it is going to hold.I was disapointed when I put it in and it didnt work like the one I had fabbed from scratch.There is more metal on the bottom to make the weld stronger.I must have gotten lucky on the first go around because the size and shape is very exacting in order for it work.I trimmed the newly welded sear down to the exact shape as the first one and it worked.I shot my nitro duck tank until it was empty with no problems. I am going to get some more air and do it again to make sure.
I dont know what valve you are going to run but it is important to note that my spyderMag is running on an original A.I.R. Valve with an 8 hole mod, level 7 bolt and no ULT ON/OFF.I have tried an X Valve with a ULT and RT On/off but it seems to work better with my old valve and I dont know why.What I am trying to say is with this sear you may have to do some adjustment forwards or backwards with the solinoid to get it working just right with the valve you are using.

<a href="http://s382.photobucket.com/albums/oo263/patrickmason/?action=view&current=Eddie4.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo263/patrickmason/Eddie4.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Ahhhhh complete.

hairyviking
07-12-2009, 10:23 AM
sweet! yeah i am running an x valve w/ult.. hope it will work

Flatliner333
07-13-2009, 11:04 AM
Have you hollowed out your frame behind the noid? Cut back as far as you can to allow room for the sear leg to move.Also I drilled a paper clip sized hole in the back of the frame.Sometimes you have to push the sear leg forward to get the valve to go in the body.

hairyviking
07-13-2009, 11:50 AM
yeah, the frame has been hollowed to allow sear movement.

Flatliner333
07-16-2009, 10:51 AM
"E"ddieMag in action

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyemTumCcGQ