Quick question R/T on off

[spyder]

k so just to be sure... all i have to do is buy a http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=399&categoryID=23 and it will drop right in my Classic vavle? or are there modifcations needed?

Ken

[Temo Vryce]

k so just to be sure... all i have to do is buy a http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=399&categoryID=23 and it will drop right in my Classic vavle? or are there modifcations needed?

Ken


I believe that there will be some modifications needed. I'm sure that someone with more technical experience can be more specific than I.

[MANN]

It will go right in. you do need different orings tho.

[spyder]

It will go right in. you do need different orings tho.

Sweet tyvm for the info

Ken

[athomas]

It will go right in. you do need different orings tho.I used all the retro on-off orings that came with the assembly when I installed one in my classic. Perhaps that is what you meant. I read it as you need to use different orings than those that came with the retro on-off assembly. It wouldn't be the first time I read something wrong, though.

[Mechanic79]

POST 20:
http://www.pblegion.com/showthread.php?t=818

[pump]

can anyone discuss this

"drill out the top of the RT on/off to approx. .163" this will eliminate some reactivity that you are not going to use or want, and it will improve the air flow significantly. Do NOT go all the way through, just down to the four side holes. now drill out the 4 side holes in the RT on/off top to .125""


and this

use a Quad o-ring just like the e-mags do. also change out the center o-ring to a buna-n o-ring. it will make the pin move easier.
i notive that Quad orings is like adding length to a pin since the bottom of the X seals before the middle of the O of an oring

also where can i find a BunaN oring for the center(is that the one that seals on the smaller OD of the pin?)




you want to control the sear accurately. without the sear stop, the back of the sear will go up and smack into the bottom of the on/off assembly. that pushes the on/off pin way farther in than ever needed. remember, things are different now. your not able rely on the trigger and sear pin length to only push the on/off pin as far as need be. now, the MPA pushes the sear all the way to the back of the frame. hell it will push it a 1/4" and what is the stop on, i got one on my trigger, is that ok? or should i make one for the sear as well

[fishmishin]

I used all the retro on-off orings that came with the assembly when I installed one in my classic. Perhaps that is what you meant. I read it as you need to use different orings than those that came with the retro on-off assembly. It wouldn't be the first time I read something wrong, though.

As long as you used the o-rings that came with the RT on/off you should be good. I tried using the o-rings that were for my classic on/off and had some weird results, which are still being discussed in this thread, well at least they were.
http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=244204

Also the post on the trigger stop I believe mainly refers to doing a pnuemag, I could be wrong though. If you aren't using a pne'ed frame you probably won't have to worry about the sear stop . There is some really interesting items in that thread though, as far as getting a pnuemag with a classic valve shooting 21bps. Not sure why anyone would want to shoot that fast anymore other than being able to say look what I can do, lol.

[athomas]

can anyone discuss this

Quote:
"drill out the top of the RT on/off to approx. .163" this will eliminate some reactivity that you are not going to use or want, and it will improve the air flow significantly. Do NOT go all the way through, just down to the four side holes. now drill out the 4 side holes in the RT on/off top to .125""

and this

Quote:
use a Quad o-ring just like the e-mags do. also change out the center o-ring to a buna-n o-ring. it will make the pin move easier.

i notive that Quad orings is like adding length to a pin since the bottom of the X seals before the middle of the O of an oring

also where can i find a BunaN oring for the center(is that the one that seals on the smaller OD of the pin?)

Quote:
you want to control the sear accurately. without the sear stop, the back of the sear will go up and smack into the bottom of the on/off assembly. that pushes the on/off pin way farther in than ever needed. remember, things are different now. your not able rely on the trigger and sear pin length to only push the on/off pin as far as need be. now, the MPA pushes the sear all the way to the back of the frame. hell it will push it a 1/4"

and what is the stop on, i got one on my trigger, is that ok? or should i make one for the sear as wellDon't worry about drilling the side holes in the retro on-off. They are already large enough to provide ample air flow. The biggest restriction is where the on-off pin comes in contact with the oring and you can't change that. Theoretically if you did drill out the on-off top it could provide a bit better air flow but you would risk having the oring push into the gap and jamming the pin if you didn't get it right, especially with the softer buna quad oring.

You can get a buna oring for the middle of the on-off to replace the urethane one. Get one at any oring supplier. It should make the on-off pin move more smoothly. It will wear out faster though but it will still probably last a long time as does the buna quad oring.

You only need trigger stops for manual mags. The sear stops are only for actuated mags where the ram could push the sear farther than normal.

[pump]

does anyone notice a problem using an Xring for the top of the pin making the sealing point lower, i actually have a longer mag pin that works for a teflon oring but not the X ring

[Spider-TW]

does anyone notice a problem using an Xring for the top of the pin making the sealing point lower, i actually have a longer mag pin that works for a teflon oring but not the X ring
For sure. The quad seals about .020 inches lower than the round o-ring, so you can have "breathing" problems like shootdown to very low recharge rates of once a second because the standard pin is barely clearing the seal when the pin is fully down. You need a pin between about .728 and .712 to get good recharge on a regular RT on/off with the quad, compared to the standard o-ring and .750 inch pin.

[pump]

glad someone else noticed, i was like wow an instant cure for bolt chew!!!!!

i polished the RT pin i got because of the friction, but now i just need to find some bunaN that fit the smaller OD of the bottom of the RT pin

stoked to know it will seal fine, i was worried about it

[Spider-TW]

glad someone else noticed, i was like wow an instant cure for bolt chew!!!!!

i polished the RT pin i got because of the friction, but now i just need to find some bunaN that fit the smaller OD of the bottom of the RT pin

stoked to know it will seal fine, i was worried about it
I found that little o-ring in my tool box. It may have come from a 2k5 intimidator rebuild kit.

[pump]

good to know ill steal one from our local Bob Long tech