home sweet home

[buzzboy]

Hello all. It's been a while but it feels great to be back. Been bit since I've done anymore than pull the viking out of the bag, look at her, and put her back.

But things are different. A friend of mine came across an Emag and offered it to me for the low low price of $50. I started thinking and you know. $50 is a good deal. So I picked it up the other night. And shot her a bit. Everything seems great. HiRise center feed, lvl 7, EMag valve, 1.37 software. The only problem is that there is no charger so when it turns on I get the version to flicker for a second and then it turns off. No biggie though. I did do one thing a bit overly though. I have a nitro duck adjustable tank that I run on my viking at like 400 psi. So I cranked it up to 800 and the reactivity felt great on the mag. I got excited and turned it up to 1000 and it was awesome. I tried for 1200 and I maxed out the tank reg so it started sending A LOT of pressure in. I killed it before damage was done to my macro line but it F'ed up the output gauge on the tank. With the tank off it sits at 600. So now I've got some Qs that need Aed.

How long can you keep hydroing a C/F tank? Mine just went out of hydro and it's a 1999. If it's still in hydro should I see about getting something better than the nitroduck(flatline would be lovely). Where can I get the 0-1200 gauge that fits my tank. Also where can I get a male QD for a tank as my tank has the old style screw on adapter?


http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/3550/p7241060.jpg
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/2504/p7241061.jpg
http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/9444/p7241062.jpg

[Rudz]

Holy hell!!!! Where you been kid?

They always come back....bwahahahahaha

I'm not sure how many times a tank can be hydrod, I have an 01 here, it was rehydrod in 04, hydro is up in sep, I was just gonna get it hydrod again

I think any regular gauge should work, unless you want the big giant ones

[vf-xx]

How long can you keep hydroing a C/F tank? Mine just went out of hydro and it's a 1999. If it's still in hydro should I see about getting something better than the nitroduck(flatline would be lovely). Where can I get the 0-1200 gauge that fits my tank. Also where can I get a male QD for a tank as my tank has the old style screw on adapter?

Welcome back:
1) You CF tanks have a 15 year lifespan, so you can get another hydro out of it.
2) Even when the tank runs out, you can always just put a new tank on the reg (unless it has non standard threads)

[georgeyew]

I like the color on the Viking you got. And sweet deal on the Emag. Hope you enjoy it.

[Newt]

$50 for an emag is a "good deal"?! You stole that. Give it back. :D


All you need to know about tank hydros:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2059688

Any 1/8 NPT or MPT gauge will be compatible with your tank. Flatline only likes the micro gauges, unfortunately.

I really don't know about the QD issue. I imagine it takes the same standard thread as the gauge, like new tanks do.

[ManInBlack]

$50 emag.


So. Jealous. Right. Now...


:D

[buzzboy]

Now I have come into a conundrum if you will. A mystery, wrapped in an enigma, in a pita pocket.

I looked at my tank that's been in a cover for 2 years and it said that it needs to be tested every three years, then the DOT codes state that it only needs hydro every 5. If someone other than myself fills my tank should they know? I just don't want issues at a field.

Nextly when I am replacing that gauge on my tank what do I use to seal it. I know I'm not supposed to use PTFE tape so what is used to seal the threads?

What is the going rate for a charger for the emag now a days? I am still debating what to do with this gun. I really like it as a mech but having a second electro in my stable would be really cool. I know it's a fine mech with the emag frame but if I was keeping it mech I would see no need to keep the emag lowers and just switch over to an RT rail and like an intelli/Y frame.

That brings me to the next thing that I have forgotten since owning my minimag 2 years ago. I know most mag parts are cross contaminatable but does an emag rail have to have an emag frame or is it just as customisable as all the mech parts.

[buzzboy]

Well, I realized that I have forgotten other Mag things as well(damn'ed viking info taking over in my mind). Were there centerfeed crownpoint barrels. I don't know how well this barrel shoots yet as I don't have any paint but I did oh so love my crownpoint.

Nextly, when I go to replace the Q/D on my tank, is the Q/D itself the part that has the slide check or is it inside the regulator as I have a male Q/D with a massive adapter on it to the tank now but it doesn't have a slide check in it.

I was also wondering if anybody knew how to adjust this cradle. I understand how to adjust the tank end of it but the gripframe end of it is confusing me. It is hex threaded so I guess it is adjustable but it seems like it was built in a way that won't let me adjust it.
http://cdn-www.pbreview.com/productpics/?action=view&photo=12056&product=3461

[vf-xx]

I was also wondering if anybody knew how to adjust this cradle. I understand how to adjust the tank end of it but the gripframe end of it is confusing me. It is hex threaded so I guess it is adjustable but it seems like it was built in a way that won't let me adjust it.
http://cdn-www.pbreview.com/productpics/?action=view&photo=12056&product=3461

Don't think you can. I do beleive that the mount screws go through the main arm, so unless there are multiple sets of screw holes, You're kinda SOL, (unless you drill more holes into it.)

[buzzboy]

Cool, I was afraid of that.

[vf-xx]

That brings me to the next thing that I have forgotten since owning my minimag 2 years ago. I know most mag parts are cross contaminatable but does an emag rail have to have an emag frame or is it just as customisable as all the mech parts.

Emag rail is like an RT rail except without the foregrip bracket holes. You can ditch the lowers (gripframe + sear) put an RT sear on there and a Frame and be all good to go.

Heck. supposing the lowers work, there's a good chance you could trade them for what you need + a little cash.

[buzzboy]

Cool, yeah, I'm thinking about ditching the emag but at the same time, it's soooo coooollll. I'll really have to think on this though.


Well, I realized that I have forgotten other Mag things as well(damn'ed viking info taking over in my mind). Were there centerfeed crownpoint barrels. I don't know how well this barrel shoots yet as I don't have any paint but I did oh so love my crownpoint.

Nextly, when I go to replace the Q/D on my tank, is the Q/D itself the part that has the slide check or is it inside the regulator as I have a male Q/D with a massive adapter on it to the tank now but it doesn't have a slide check in it.

[Ando]

I looked at my tank that's been in a cover for 2 years and it said that it needs to be tested every three years, then the DOT codes state that it only needs hydro every 5. If someone other than myself fills my tank should they know? I just don't want issues at a field.
Fiber tanks have been grouped into the 5yr plan, depending...
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2349580 <---Read

Nextly when I am replacing that gauge on my tank what do I use to seal it. I know I'm not supposed to use PTFE tape so what is used to seal the threads?
Use Locktite I've used regular Teflon tape (aka plumbers tape) for years on the HP side of the my tanks. Most peeps don't have locktite readily available but the Teflon tape works just as good or better. Sometimes Locktite doesn't seal up too well and you have to reapply and let dry for a few hrs. The tape is quick and painless.

Just about every online PB store has PTFE tape it in their inventory. I don't see why you can't use it :tard:

[Newt]

PTFE tape works fine. Actually, I prefer PTFE paste. Works just as good and it's much easier to use. You can get either at a good hardware store.

And as always...if you use Loctite, make sure it's not the red stuff. Nothing ruins a day of paintball like having your gauge go out and having to remove it with a blowtorch. :rofl:

[buzzboy]

Last Question


Nextly, when I go to replace the Q/D on my tank, is the Q/D itself the part that has the slide check or is it inside the regulator as I have a male Q/D with a massive adapter on it to the tank now but it doesn't have a slide check in it.

Thanks for all the help so far guys

[Sumthinwicked]

u raped ur friend if he knew it was worth 500 he might be a lil pissed .////

[Newt]

The thing on your tank reg is not a QD. It's a fill nipple. Difference being: the QD is a free flow connector while the fill nipple is a one-way valve. Many times the two systems won't even connect to each other due to minor sizing differences.

A silde check is a different fitting altogether, basically a manual on/off valve.

Again, your tank reg probably uses a standard 1/8 pipe thread (NPT/MPT) fill nipple. That means you can swap that old school thing out for something a modern fill station can connect to with no problem. Your local proshop should have them on hand well under, say, $8.

[buzzboy]

He got the mag for free so any money was good for him. I think I ended up giving him 75 because I felt bad for the loss. So he got $75 and I got, well, something I once dreamed of and now have begun dreaming of again.

Okay, so what I have now is a fill nipple sized QD. If only I had a local pro-shop. Hmm....

Is there anywhere online that I could find a fill nipple? It's something that I have just never seen.

[Ando]

I'm lost...why do you need a fill nipple?

[buzzboy]

I'm lost...why do you need a fill nipple? ATM it doesn't have standard fill nipple. It has this ridiculus 4" long adapter from a strange screw in type fill valve to a standard fill nipple then on top of that is the 4" long adapter that goes from the Fire Department's SCBA fill station to the first adapter so things don't all fit together all too well.

It is the item on the right in the third pic of my first post.