PDA

View Full Version : Assistance with ULT (need some shims)



PB_RoB
08-14-2009, 09:01 AM
Please see below - Bolt not resetting or trigger not resetting - HELP!

flyingpootang
08-14-2009, 10:45 AM
You can use a L10 shim in place. 1 L10 shim = 2 ULT shims. Basiclly start with 3 shims and add 1 shim at a time until it goes full auto, then remove the last shim and your ULT will be tuned. If you need to buy additional shims pm tunaman or online at airgun.com

PB_RoB
08-14-2009, 11:06 AM
Thanks for the Shim info - I will do that.

Can you please tell me why sometimes (2 times out of 10 pulls) that the trigger wont reset?

I can sit and dry fire with NO issues. But as soon as I load a hopper with paint. (Dye Rotor) with perfect Paint to bore match. The trigger will not reset all the time. I know I am getting Full Pull and releases too.
I have to SNAP my finger off of it - and something just doesnt seem right. :cry:

I went from Red Spring to Gold Spring and it still did the same thing. Chrony'ing on both to 290fps (+/- 5fps) with the first shot being 285 or so.

ACK - Help please! :tard:

OOPs _ Forgot to mention that I am using 90/4500 Ninja Air (brand new - 850 psi) and a new 90/4500 on it's way preset to 950psi right from Ray at Ninja Air.

Oh - and No Air leaks from Barrel or Grip Frame (ULT Trigger) Tested by airing up while trigger held - then release and no air leaks at all anywhere.

Mechanic79
08-14-2009, 01:30 PM
Thanks for the Shim info - I will do that.

Can you please tell me why sometimes (2 times out of 10 pulls) that the trigger wont reset?

I can sit and dry fire with NO issues. But as soon as I load a hopper with paint. (Dye Rotor) with perfect Paint to bore match. The trigger will not reset all the time. I know I am getting Full Pull and releases too.
I have to SNAP my finger off of it - and something just doesnt seem right. :cry:

I went from Red Spring to Gold Spring and it still did the same thing. Chrony'ing on both to 290fps (+/- 5fps) with the first shot being 285 or so.

ACK - Help please! :tard:

OOPs _ Forgot to mention that I am using 90/4500 Ninja Air (brand new - 850 psi) and a new 90/4500 on it's way preset to 950psi right from Ray at Ninja Air.

Oh - and No Air leaks from Barrel or Grip Frame (ULT Trigger) Tested by airing up while trigger held - then release and no air leaks at all anywhere.

check your ball detent(s)

Also, your ULT can be affected by how tight or loose your field strip screws are.

The same case of paint can have various sizes and imperfections like dimples etc... so I would try to use a 5 ball average from EACH bag of paint to say that you have perfect barrel to paint match. and just cause it matched last week doesn't necessarily mean it will be perfect this week.

PB_RoB
08-14-2009, 01:48 PM
check your ball detent(s)

Also, your ULT can be affected by how tight or loose your field strip screws are.

The same case of paint can have various sizes and imperfections like dimples etc... so I would try to use a 5 ball average from EACH bag of paint to say that you have perfect barrel to paint match. and just cause it matched last week doesn't necessarily mean it will be perfect this week.

Thanks for the response - I have tried to make sure that both Frame Screws are identical in tightness to make sure that there is no - warpage. Even did a combination of loosening the front screw then the back screw. I have also - relubed everything. I also just added another shim to the Lvl10. It seems that the bolt is not coming back far enough to catch the sear. If I turn the gun upside down - remove the hopper and push the bolt back then the trigger will catch. I am at my wits end with this. Sigh...... :tard:
But the strange thing - is I can dry fire all day long and the trigger resets fine each time.

I have a total of 3 shims in the Level 10 - is that ok?

The detent is fine and there is no stick at all - Im not double feeding and I have now over bored on the barrel to elimnate that.

I have read all the data and viewed the YouTube data on "Install 1 additional Shim and retry untill the bolt returns"

Oh - and this is the X-Valve if that matters as well.

Im real new to all of this but watched Tom's videos on the Net and understand the 2 halves of the gun. :) Im a Mag Sponge absorbing all that I can.

Please offer more ideas/help! :D


Forgot to mention that I can not get the carrier out - it is wedged in there - I have tapped on the counter so much that I am afraid to do anything again. How to get it out - the bolt does feel snug, but slides easily.

PB_RoB
08-14-2009, 03:31 PM
OK - I took out the Bolt and carrier and removed the orings and took a coffee cup and soaked all pieces in Acetone and completely cleaned everything with a fine horse hair detailing brush. I washed all O-Rings in a little dishwashing detergent seperately. Rinsed and dried everything.

Relubed every piece and put it all back together with 2 shims in the powertube.

I still am getting the same. :( Starting to make me wanna pull my hair out. There is definately less sticktion! So that is a plus. The carrier slides super nice and easy in the bolt. I put the Red Spring back in and could only dry fire around 100 rounds. (out of air) I have gone through around 6000 psi in tinkering today. I will start again tomorrow after I get my tanks filled and suba filled.

Also - the trigger sticking I am confident that is a problem with the Bolt not resetting completely. If I take my finger and push the bolt back the trigger rod resets correctly, and I can fire the next shot.
What is killing me is that I can hold the trigger in a certain spot and it will bounce Fantastic. Then not reset out of the blue..... no reason.
Then I can pull slowly and reproduce the Stick - I have to pull / snap at the trigger 2 or 3 times to get it to reset. UGH

Thanks for the help everyone and taking the time for suggestions - I appreciate any and all ideas! :)

I'll hit it again on Saturday...

Ando
08-14-2009, 03:59 PM
Forgot to mention that I can not get the carrier out - it is wedged in there - I have tapped on the counter so much that I am afraid to do anything again. How to get it out - the bolt does feel snug, but slides easily.

Use your field strip screw, put it in, add a little pressure, give it a half turn and pull out. ;)

I'm having the same issue with one of my mags 2 and have done everything under the sun besides changing my detentes (don't have any extras) :cry: I'll probably be ordering some from tuna next week and let ya know how it goes.

PB_RoB
08-14-2009, 04:47 PM
Use your field strip screw, put it in, add a little pressure, give it a half turn and pull out. ;)

I'm having the same issue with one of my mags 2 and have done everything under the sun besides changing my detentes (don't have any extras) :cry: I'll probably be ordering some from tuna next week and let ya know how it goes.


I just dont understand how it can be a simple detent... the bolt is just 1/16th away from fully resetting. :) Im outta air or I would still be tinkering.

I have confidently made the following assesments.

1)At 3 shims in the power tube - the barrel will sometimes leak, after so many shots, so I know that 3 is too many. So back to a consistant 2 shims.
2) I do not have any problems with the ULT On/Off. The Trigger does not go Full Auto and is very light to pull. I have tried though many slight twists of the Valve to make sure that the On/Off is hitting the trigger appropriately. When installing the Rear Field strip screw, I let it guid the Valve accordingly and do not force it.
3) Took the detent out and cleaned it and lubed it very well then - rolled it around on a towel to remove any excess oil. Have tried it in various positions of Tight - Not so Tight - Snug and etc.
4) Have tried Red Bolt Spring to Gold Bolt Spring then Back to Red Spring (all still exhibit the same) Also learned the Hard way that Red Spring = Less Ball Bolt Strike (Gentle) Gold Spring = Not so Gentle Ball Strike (Thank goodness for Nerves on Fingers - ouch)
5) Does not stick as bad with no hopper attached (no ball in breach) Can pull the trigger very quickly and dont get near the Trigger Stick (bolt not reset) Can stick a Squeegie in the breech and get the same. :)
6) Put a hopper full of paint on it with Dye Rotor - and it's not double feeding or anything. I can get about 6 shots then stick. Can snap at the trigger couple times then (the lil pin comes out more) allowing me to shoot.

There has to be something I can do to get the bolt back - the only thing I can think of is a better / loose Carrier O-Ring. I have checked with magnifying glass and there are no burs on my bolt or Carrier O-Ring. And I am using the Line & 1 dot Carrier. All the other ones are smaller... (that I have anyway)

Just frustrating :cuss: lol

Anyway - Thanks for reading and as always - am willing to try anything (but need to get more air first on Saturday)

Thanks everyone!

211
08-14-2009, 06:13 PM
It sounds like you need a larger lvl X carrier
if 1.5 (a line and a dot) is the largest you have you may need to order larger ones from AGD or Tunaman

211
08-14-2009, 06:15 PM
one other thought
have you got a rail bushing?

PB_RoB
08-14-2009, 06:24 PM
one other thought
have you got a rail bushing?

OK - I see the bushing in the trigger frame so yeah - I got those!

Thanks for responding. The largest I have is 1 line and 1 dot. :( I will order some. Can you tell me good Part #? I have read through the LVL10 help thread and my head is spining - with so many LVL10 scenarios and different Valve types. :tard:

Thanks again!


***edit = just ordered size 2 through 4 of carriers and Orings - will air them in!

211
08-15-2009, 01:41 PM
Once you get the new carriers in, using the same oring, go up in size, and use the largest one that doesnt leak

athomas
08-16-2009, 12:41 PM
When testing your level 10 setup, don't use any powertube shims. Only put them in after you get the setup properly tuned. They only affect how far the bolt needs to move forward in order to vent air.

If you get sticking with the largest carrier size that doesn't leak, then start tuning your ULT. Add ULT shims until you get multiple shots per trigger pull. Then remove the shim that caused that to happen.

If your setup still sticks, change the white carrier oring and start the level 10 tuning cycle again.

PB_RoB
08-17-2009, 05:28 PM
When testing your level 10 setup, don't use any powertube shims. Only put them in after you get the setup properly tuned. They only affect how far the bolt needs to move forward in order to vent air.

If you get sticking with the largest carrier size that doesn't leak, then start tuning your ULT. Add ULT shims until you get multiple shots per trigger pull. Then remove the shim that caused that to happen.

If your setup still sticks, change the white carrier oring and start the level 10 tuning cycle again.

Thanks everyone for the input - the carriers will be here tomorrow or Wednesday - had them shipped 2 day air. Just got the shipping notice.