ReTro leaking out the back

[Newt]

I've got a ReTro valve with a constant slow leak at normal fps, preset HPA tank, all orings look good. Any pointers?

[snoopay700]

Do you have a level 10?

[Newt]

Yeppers. And using it.

It's not a barrel leak, it's directly out the 1/8" adjustment hole.

[BiNumber3]

does lowering the velocity stop the leak? has this leak been there for as long as you've had the lvl 10 installed or just started recently?

[snoopay700]

does lowering the velocity stop the leak? has this leak been there for as long as you've had the lvl 10 installed or just started recently?
Yeah that's why i was wondering if you were using a level 10, because i had the same problem, probably why the guy sold the gun in the first place. The level 10 requires a higher operating pressure for your mag, so you just need a new regulator piston, here's a link:
http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=112&categoryID=23

[Ando]

Hey dude...I'm had the same problem with my retro.
http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2652689#post2652689

[snoopay700]

Hey due...I'm had the same problem with my retro.
http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2652689#post2652689
It could be that, but more than likely if it started after the level 10 it's likely he needs a new piston

[Ando]

It could be that, but more than likely if it started after the level 10 it's likely he needs a new piston

The piston is the problem. You can buy one if you like or open it, turn the rubber seal over and be done with it. I just did mine like 30 min ago and no leak

[Newt]

Okay, cool. I had what I guess is the counterpart of problem with my classic valve when I put the lvl 10 on it. Changing the reg piston fixed that. This seemed different though, when you turn the velocity adjuster in too far it fires full auto out the back.

How do you open the thing? AGD says not to, but hey, if it's toast anyway what can it hurt? I'll try swapping out the old lvl7 that came with the valve for diagnostics.

[Ando]

Table vice and vice grips is what I used or 2 sets of vice grips will do the job. The piston housing will come apart in 2 pieces. It's not threaded, they're pressed onto each other. Twist it back and forth till it pops off. Remember to protect the piston before you do either method. I just rapped both piston ends in a few layers of duck tape and worked like a charm.

Inside will be a allen key set screw that you'll need to back out. Pull the spring and the small metal plate inside. Last thing in the piston will be that rubber seal. Remove it, flip it and put everything back together. Make sure you install that rubber seal 180* out or your just going to wind up with the same problem. Squeeze the piston housing together and your done. Reinstall the piston and try it out.

Worst case scenario, you'll have to buy another piston. ;)

[athomas]

If you are going to adjust the safety release, then don't flip the rubber piece. The rubber piece will eventually seat itself and release air at the same pressure as before. Just add a shim. That will increase the release pressure.

[Newt]

Press fit, not threaded. Gotcha. I have the tools to remove it safely.

I'd rather not mess with the broken in oring/seal, so the shim sounds like a great idea. We're probably talking a .010" powertube shim, right?

[Ando]

Hmm...I think the shim might be to small, open it and see. A standard thin washer will do the trick tho.