I'm still learning, drop in and see if you can help me out

[roxcreek]

Hey everyone, I've learned so much from this site because here is very helpful and know what they're talking about. I'm getting my first mag soon, so I have to say that I'm pretty anxious about starting out on the next chapter of my paintball experience. I can't seem to come up with the answers to these questions. EDIT: anyone else who passes through here with a question of their own can feel free to add their own to the thread. The title of the thread lends itself to a help thread where no one has to make a new thread for their question. I also hope that people can come back to this in the future and look through to see if they can find their answer.

I have a pretty strong understanding of pneumatic setups that can be integrated into Automag designs but I have always had an open ear for their flaws. In "Pneumags" I've heard that there's a chance of breaking paint that is specific to Pneumags. What truth is there behind that? Also, what is the advantage that a Pneumag has over a UL Trigger pull kit?

When using air setups like the Centerflag Dynaflow, why is it an advantage to have your input pressure significantly higher (1000 plus) than most run of the mill, preset "high pressure" tanks (at about 800 or 900, if I'm not mistaken). I've come up with personal assumptions that would explain why (My thoughts were that the pressure can a. force the 'mag valve back into place faster, or b. the bolt comes back into place with more force so the shooter can achieve trigger bounce), but I just want to make sure. With that in mind, what would the ideal input pressure be for each different AGD valve.

What are the differences between the successively pricier sears and rails? I know that there are considerably stark aesthetic differences between the standard AM/MM rail and the Karta rail (does anyone know how it got that name?) for example, but is that the only difference? Is there an extra feature that the Karta has over the basic rail? The same goes for the sear. There seems to be two types of sears for mech 'mags: The basic sear and the RT. What is the difference between these two as well?

Would it bring any advantage at all to add in an inline reg between the valve and the tank, or does the valve have it all under control?

Are there any written guides for adjusting the Level 10 bolt?

does the Tac-One body use unique rails?

How do I go about adjusting the FPS on the valve? after looking at pictures and cutaways from ZDSPB, I assume it's one the back face of the valve. I just wanted to make sure.

If there's any advice anybody would want to share, I always have an open ear.


I feel obnoxious, asking all of these questions, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

[Smoothice]

Hey everyone, I've learned so much from this site because here is very helpful and know what they're talking about. I'm getting my first mag soon, so I have to say that I'm pretty anxious about starting out on the next chapter of my paintball experience. I can't seem to come up with the answers to these questions.

I have a pretty strong understanding of pneumatic setups that can be integrated into Automag designs but I have always had an open ear for their flaws. In "Pneumags" I've heard that there's a chance of breaking paint that is specific to Pneumags. What truth is there behind that? Also, what is the advantage that a Pneumag has over a UL Trigger pull kit?

As I understand it the only reason paint is broken in a pneumag is because of short stroking. (pulling the trigger before everything is fully reloaded). There is no electronic board to space out your shots. So if you are not pulling the trigger at a consistent rate then you could short stroke it.

When using air setups like the Centerflag Dynaflow, why is it an advantage to have your input pressure significantly higher (1000 plus) than most run of the mill, preset "high pressure" tanks (at about 800 or 900, if I'm not mistaken). I've come up with personal assumptions that would explain why (My thoughts were that the pressure can a. force the 'mag valve back into place faster, or b. the bolt comes back into place with more force so the shooter can achieve trigger bounce), but I just want to make sure. With that in mind, what would the ideal input pressure be for each different AGD valve.

Higher input = easier reactivity on retro valves.

Basically a retro valve (rt valve, x valve, emag valve) recharges so fast that it actually pushes the trigger back. The higher the input pressure the faster and harder it pushes it back. With this you can sweet spot the trigger. So instead of pulling back the trigger you just need to keep it in the right position and the gun basically goes full auto until you move your finger.

This does not work with a classic/minimag valve.



What are the differences between the successively pricier sears and rails? I know that there are considerably stark aesthetic differences between the standard AM/MM rail and the Karta rail (does anyone know how it got that name?) for example, but is that the only difference? Is there an extra feature that the Karta has over the basic rail? The same goes for the sear. There seems to be two types of sears for mech 'mags: The basic sear and the RT. What is the difference between these two as well?

Rails - asthetic only. There is not performance difference other then weight.

Sears. An rt sear screws into the rail. A classic sear sits in a slot in the rail. An emag sear screws into the rail like a rt sear but it also has an extra leg to connect to the plunger.

Would it bring any advantage at all to add in an inline reg between the valve and the tank, or does the valve have it all under control?

Valve has it all under control. Unless you are running c02.

Are there any written guides for adjusting the Level 10 bolt?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0mvr30jKhw

Not written but I love this video.

does the Tac-One body use unique rails?

No.

How do I go about adjusting the FPS on the valve? after looking at pictures and cutaways from ZDSPB, I assume it's one the back face of the valve. I just wanted to make sure.

Correct.

If there's any advice anybody would want to share, I always have an open ear.

Hide your wallet. Cause this forum will empty it over and over again.


I feel obnoxious, asking all of these questions, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

Answers in blue. :cheers:

[snoopay700]

Hey everyone, I've learned so much from this site because here is very helpful and know what they're talking about. I'm getting my first mag soon, so I have to say that I'm pretty anxious about starting out on the next chapter of my paintball experience. I can't seem to come up with the answers to these questions.

I have a pretty strong understanding of pneumatic setups that can be integrated into Automag designs but I have always had an open ear for their flaws. In "Pneumags" I've heard that there's a chance of breaking paint that is specific to Pneumags. What truth is there behind that? Also, what is the advantage that a Pneumag has over a UL Trigger pull kit?

I've never had problems with pneumags breaking paint with my level 10. As for the difference, the pneumag is as light or lighter than an electric, ULT lowers the pull to one pound, and still has the normal pull of a mag, where as pneumags have a much shorter trigger pull.

When using air setups like the Centerflag Dynaflow, why is it an advantage to have your input pressure significantly higher (1000 plus) than most run of the mill, preset "high pressure" tanks (at about 800 or 900, if I'm not mistaken). I've come up with personal assumptions that would explain why (My thoughts were that the pressure can a. force the 'mag valve back into place faster, or b. the bolt comes back into place with more force so the shooter can achieve trigger bounce), but I just want to make sure. With that in mind, what would the ideal input pressure be for each different AGD valve.

Higher pressure equals more reactivity, meaning you can bounce the trigger easier. Check out the RT effect thread in this forum, it explains how that works. If you just want to play pure semi auto (what most fields allow) i would just get a preset tank, that's al you need for mags, as long as it's HP.

What are the differences between the successively pricier sears and rails? I know that there are considerably stark aesthetic differences between the standard AM/MM rail and the Karta rail (does anyone know how it got that name?) for example, but is that the only difference? Is there an extra feature that the Karta has over the basic rail? The same goes for the sear. There seems to be two types of sears for mech 'mags: The basic sear and the RT. What is the difference between these two as well?

The rails are usually cosmetic, but can be lighter and the karta and other ULE ones are longer so you can mount a foregrip, but it depends on the rail as well. As for the sears, the RT sear has a roller bearing where as the AM/MM does not, so it makes the sear smoother.

Would it bring any advantage at all to add in an inline reg between the valve and the tank, or does the valve have it all under control?

No, you never put a reg on a mag, it has a reg in the valve, and it's all the reg you'll need.

Are there any written guides for adjusting the Level 10 bolt?

on this site, homepage, there's a link, i believe it says level x

does the Tac-One body use unique rails?

this one i have no clue, i think it might, but it might use a ule rail

How do I go about adjusting the FPS on the valve? after looking at pictures and cutaways from ZDSPB, I assume it's one the back face of the valve. I just wanted to make sure.

you're correct, it's a reg on the back, you screw it in to turn velocity up, turn it out to turn it down

If there's any advice anybody would want to share, I always have an open ear.


I feel obnoxious, asking all of these questions, but it doesn't hurt to ask.
Answers in bold.

EDIT: Damn you smoothice, DAMN YOU!!!!! :cheers:

[roxcreek]

This might seem like "old knowledge" that some of the most basic players know but it's more like a rule that people don't understand in full:

Why isn't it a good idea to run CO2 in specific markers?

One of the more specific tails of this wide question is what makes a marker susceptible to this CO2 effect? Which parts are the ones that are in danger? Is it the o-rings? the electrical wiring? I just have never had anyone tell me in this amount of detail, and it has bothered me every time I try to think of what the exact reason is.

Another point of curiosity is what makes a regulator good or bad for CO2?

I have found that as a general rule of thumb, most electropneumatic markers are not OK for CO2, but electronic sear trippers are. Correct me here if I'm wrong. Then when one of my friends got his first gun, the Vibe, it looked as though it was built for CO2. It's forward grip was built like an expansion chamber and had a little woven mesh at the bottom. Since the Vibe is electropneumatic (and not a sear tripper) that brakes my above rule. However, I faintly remember the Vibe as having extra features that allow it to cope with CO2. Anyway, is there a rule of rules that can be applied to all markers that concerns their use of CO2 and the dangers it poses?


Established Grounds: I understand that CO2 usually exists in two states for this application. In the tank there is both gaseous CO2 and liquid CO2. In an ideal situation the gas will be all that enters the marker beyond the ASA, but thanks to Murphy, we have to take precautions against liquid CO2 coming into the gun. But this is where my confusion sets in, I just don't know EXACTLY why CO2 can damage guns. My understanding of this relationship is limited and based off of unverified assumptions. I just need people with more pneumatics knowledge than me to help me build a solid base of facts that I can help spread to others.


This is still mag related, so, despite the mentioning of the Vibe above, I hope for this to stick around in the Tech Section. :cheers:

[secretweaponevan]

Because CO2 changes states at a fairly low pressure. As a result of this, its temperature drops, freezing o-rings, damaging them, preventing them from sealing, and damaging other seals on your gun.

CO2 is a cruel mistress, especially in mags. Lots of potential energy per cubic inch, but tough to harness it reliably.

Great question!

[roxcreek]

Thanks for the help so far you guys! I've got another question that's related to the pneumag setup... Since the only issue with the pneumag setup is it's possibility of short stroking, can't I just ramp up the pressure input from the ASA?

EDIT: I'm looking through the parts list for the Pneumag, I found that this (http://www.zdspb.com/media/agd/pneumag_partslist.pdf) list lists the MSV-2, MSV-1 and MSV-3. I know that I need the MSV-2, but I can't imagine where the MSV-1 and 3 would go. I assume that it's an option between the three.

Also, from the above parts list, it gives the "Clippard 11752-5" as my choice of barbs... Where could I get these? Could I use these (http://www.airsoldier.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AOS&Product_Code=CAMOZZI-MICRO-FITTINGS&Category_Code=MICROLINE) as a substitute?

Thirdly, the MPA-3 would need some sort of piston to hold the ram shaft as well. This piston is shown in the pictures, but is not listed in the parts. The same goes for the face of the MPA-3, except that it seems to have been ignored altogether.

thanks for your help, you guys are really great :headbang:

[roxcreek]

bump?

[Spider-TW]

The easiest way to collect the little pneumag parts is a kit from Cyberave68 in the dealers BST. He can get you single parts as well. If you feel like deviating from the popular recipe, www.airsoldier.com has lots of parts to keep you entertained.

Since you only feel the pressure from the LPR and chuffs are just from not letting the reg recharge, you're best bet is to learn good trigger control and stay at a rate that is within your limitations, which should be around twice your good single trigger speed.

[roxcreek]

Thanks you guys, I really appreciate the help.

[snoopay700]

Regarding a reg and co2, it's because co2 can get up to 1500 psi i think and it fluctuates from 400 psi about to 1500, i could be off on the numbers but i think that's it. A reg will ensure it doesn't raise above a certain pressure is all, so it makes your gun more consistent with co2.

As for all of your pneumag questions, check this out:
http://www.pblegion.com/showthread.php?t=818&highlight=how+to+pneumag

[roxcreek]

I have my first Automag now and I went out to shoot it. It's just a regular old 68 classic with a minimag valve and level 7. I noticed that there is a gap between the valve and the body where the valve fits into the body. Is that gonna be an issue?

The consistency also seems to be a little off. I had pretty serious drop and balls spinning off to the side while using CO2. I only used the CO2 because I didn't have the high pressure output tank filled up. Do you guys think it could just be the CO2 or could it be that the wire detent on the barrel is spinning them (I have the nubbin on the left of the barrel, and the balls were spinning off to the left). I was taking these shots at about 20 yards at a man sized target at 0 incline with impact and some other paint at 40 per case. The drops would hit the ground just before they got to the target and the ones that spun would go a good 10 or so feet up and to the left.

Thanks for your input

[athomas]

Check the balls for roundness. Odd shaped balls can cause inconsistency issues. Also, check the balls in the barrel to see if they fit properly. If they are too tight, it could cause inaccuracies as well. Many would say that a loose fit will cause problems too, but I have never experienced that and I use vastly oversized barrels for everything.

[secretweaponevan]

I noticed that there is a gap between the valve and the body where the valve fits into the body. Is that gonna be an issue?

It could mean that you are missing your rail bushing, pictured below, sticking out of the rail behind the sear. Thanks RamboPreacher for the hotlink.
http://www.pentestone.com/paintball/PumpMag/PumpMag%20021.jpg

[Chace]

Would it be possible to just stick a few o-rings in the macro port so the bottom of the threading seals against the air hole instead of using messy teflon tape or blue/purple loctite?

[secretweaponevan]

Would it be possible to just stick a few o-rings in the macro port so the bottom of the threading seals against the air hole instead of using messy teflon tape or blue/purple loctite?

In a word, no.

[Chace]

Why? If it sealed properly and didn't stick out anywhere, it would be perfect? Or maybe I am not understanding? Pardon my n00bishness..

[roxcreek]

Why? If it sealed properly and didn't stick out anywhere, it would be perfect? Or maybe I am not understanding? Pardon my n00bishness..
Most likely it's because multiple o rings stacked together is not an effective seal in the slightest, (because that can slide against one another) another reason would be because the surface of the valve is not flat and there is no opposing face to bend the o ring to fit this face.

[roxcreek]

It could mean that you are missing your rail bushing, pictured below, sticking out of the rail behind the sear. Thanks RamboPreacher for the hotlink.
http://www.pentestone.com/paintball/PumpMag/PumpMag%20021.jpg

I wish it were that simple, the bushing is there. The valve and the body don't exactly fit together all to well, in addition to this separation, the valve is incredibly difficult to remove from the body... I have a strong feeling that it is the paint, coupled with the CO2. I'll get back when I can use compressed air and good paint.

[athomas]

If the mag is used, make sure you change all the orings. That way you know you are starting with everything fresh. Old orings could cause consistency issues, especially the regulator seat oring.

Don't worry about a slight gap between the valve and body. As long as the rail bushing is in place, the field strip screw will hold everything where it needs to be. Does the body have a square front or an angled front? The square front is a classic body. The angled front is a retro/emag body. The pim that the grip frame screw attaches to on the retro body is a bit longer and causes issues on the classic rails. It is easily fixed with a file if that is the case.

[secretweaponevan]

the valve is incredibly difficult to remove from the body...

Degas then pull the trigger. Sometimes the on/off pin will stick down too far making it hard to remove the valve. Pulling the trigger after degas pushes the on/off pin up and out of the way.

Watch the video manual for automags. You'll learn a metric crap ton about your automag.
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[roxcreek]

Degas then pull the trigger. Sometimes the on/off pin will stick down too far making it hard to remove the valve. Pulling the trigger after degas pushes the on/off pin up and out of the way.

Watch the video manual for automags. You'll learn a metric crap ton about your automag.
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thanks, I looked through this video one time before I got the mag, but I'll go through it another time. Also, I will get the full replacement kit, I wish that the mag had come with it in the first place though.

thanks again

[roxcreek]

Here's another question:
When you make an egomag, do you still get the same short stroking issues as you would with a pneumag?

When making wooden grips for the carbon fiber single trigger, what method should I use to secure the grip to the frame. I noticed that there is a hex hole in the center, but no may to solidly attach them. I would think I could drill and tap something, but are there any instructionals for this?

[athomas]

Any mag can be short stroked if you pull the trigger too quickly after the previous cycle. The lighter the trigger pull, the easier it is to do.

The wooden grips should be fastened to the grip frame the same way the regular grips are fastened. Use a screw in a recessed hole. That is generally why wooden grips are a bit fatter than plastic grips. You can make the wooden grip thinner by fastening a piece of flat steel or aluminum in a recess in the back of the wooden grip.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd263/athomasan/woodengripexample.jpg

[Flatliner333]

Look at the many options available for your mag before you start puting any money in to it. You may get grips for that frame and decide you want a double trigger 45* frame. Also after you replace all the o rings in the valve and get the gun shooting like it is supposed to chrono it and shoot it for a bit before you go tinkering with it.This way you can see how great the gun is of the shelf before you make it better with your mods.

[Flatliner333]

Here is a question I have not seen anywhere.I have 2 classic sears one with a bump behind the front bolt lip and one without. Is the bump relative to the taper on the back of the lvl X bolt? If not ,what is it for?

[roxcreek]

Here is a question I have not seen anywhere.I have 2 classic sears one with a bump behind the front bolt lip and one without. Is the bump relative to the taper on the back of the lvl X bolt? If not ,what is it for?

go ahead and post a picture, I'm curious to see what you mean.



Look at the many options available for your mag before you start putting any money in to it. You may get grips for that frame and decide you want a double trigger 45* frame. Also after you replace all the o rings in the valve and get the gun shooting like it is supposed to chrono it and shoot it for a bit before you go tinkering with it.This way you can see how great the gun is of the shelf before you make it better with your mods.

I have a pretty good idea of where I want to go with the mag, I plan to put a q-loader on it, keep the single trigger, maybe keep the valve and bolt and if I can find enough wood and a spline, I want to try for a wooden foregrip. However, the foregrip and q-loader are where I am the most open to opinions though, I just don;t have any idea on how it'll feel.

[roxcreek]

Are there any tutorials on how to go from a block of wood to a complete grip either here on AO or somewhere else? I have been having to cut down some of the trees on my dad's property to make a field for speedball. I cut down a pretty large tree that I think was a redwood, I would hope to use that or some of the other wood I have had to cut down, purely for sentimental reasons. If none of the wood would be practical to use, I think it would be fine to go and buy some pre-dried wood, that is known to be good for making pistol grips.

I'm mostly just looking for the tools, techniques and measurements to attach the grips. Once I know what I cannot do I can carve the grip according to what I think feels good in my hand.

[Flatliner333]

Here is a question I have not seen anywhere.I have 2 classic sears one with a bump behind the front bolt lip and one without. Is the bump relative to the taper on the back of the lvl X bolt? If not ,what is it for?


<a href="http://s382.photobucket.com/albums/oo263/patrickmason/?action=view&current=Sears.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo263/patrickmason/Sears.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

[snoopay700]

Not the level 10, just there to stop the sear from going too far upward, it was added to later models i believe to make it so that the sear only grabs the bolt and doesn't really run into the spring. Mine is like the bottom one.

[Flatliner333]

Thanks.

[roxcreek]

does anyone know anywhere I could find specially sized o rings? I know that they are in some sort of sizing system like screws are... I just don't know how said system works, nor where I could go to find a selection of o rings that are stocked in their individual sizes.

[secretweaponevan]

does anyone know anywhere I could find specially sized o rings? I know that they are in some sort of sizing system like screws are... I just don't know how said system works, nor where I could go to find a selection of o rings that are stocked in their individual sizes.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&ct=res&cd=2&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gbsa.com%2Fdownloads%2FO-Ring%2520Chart.pdf&ei=WYSaSsumNaD8tgfIm-nIBA&usg=AFQjCNGSpXdXFpJezQVNhHrIHuruDmnfWw&sig2=JBMi8E_uzBAbmxLNIvjwCg

http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=3evz23

[roxcreek]

Hey everyone, you've been great help to me, and I can't express how grateful I am to all of you.

I am trying to do more research on what features I should put into the mag'. I was wondering the ULE trigger pull kit would do to any sort of bounce back/RT trigger effect that I could get with an X-Valve. I assumed that it wouldn't do anything...

I would also love to hear your opinion on the ULE trigger pull kit, and since there are no videos online... could anyone describe how light the pull is once the kit is properly installed?

thanks again. :cheers:

[roxcreek]

hey everyone,
I just finished off my first pair of wooden grips and I don't know how I should attach them to the trigger frame. The hex hole in the top center of the frame is un-tapped, or it's missing the necessary nut. I don't know where I should get said nut because a normal machine nut wouldn't stay in the grip... can anyone help me out here?

[Spider-TW]

hey everyone,
I just finished off my first pair of wooden grips and I don't know how I should attach them to the trigger frame. The hex hole in the top center of the frame is un-tapped, or it's missing the necessary nut. I don't know where I should get said nut because a normal machine nut wouldn't stay in the grip... can anyone help me out here?
There's a metal "nut" that goes in there in a carbon frame. How did your last grips attach?

I've never replaced one, but they may be a standard spacer that you might find at an electronics store or a good hardware store.

[roxcreek]

There's a metal "nut" that goes in there in a carbon frame. How did your last grips attach?

I've never replaced one, but they may be a standard spacer that you might find at an electronics store or a good hardware store.

thanks, I got the grips with my first mag... the guy who sold it to me had lost a lot of parts, so I never knew what this nut looked like.

[Spider-TW]

thanks, I got the grips with my first mag... the guy who sold it to me had lost a lot of parts, so I never knew what this nut looked like.
I'll try to find some measurements.

[Spider-TW]

I'll try to find some measurements.
The nut is brass, about 0.489 long by 0.249 across the flats. I think it is a #8 screw thread, but I'm not sure.

[roxcreek]

The nut is brass, about 0.489 long by 0.249 across the flats. I think it is a #8 screw thread, but I'm not sure.


aww, cool, thanks so much lemme get some pictures of what I've done so far up here...

[roxcreek]

aww, cool, thanks so much lemme get some pictures of what I've done so far up here...


http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/roxcreek/100_2509.jpg

http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr65/roxcreek/100_2510.jpg