View Full Version : Hypothesis on Emancipator frame implementation
Shirow
09-01-2009, 01:57 PM
So, I know they're not out yet but I am hoping to get one (http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=245090&page=1&pp=30)
Couple of issues have cropped up from this thread:
1) For the 'sleeper' LPR to work, you need to use a modded CP ASA underneath. I want to run my warp, which would obviously have to go between the ASA and the bottom of the frame. I want to come up with a way to implement this which will make it possible to remove the warp for cleaning without having to fiddle with replacing o-rings constantly.
2) I currently use a Flatline on a dovetail mount. I'm guessing it will probably not be possible to do a sleeper LPR with this setup - I may have to go to a screw in tank instead, might not be any way around it.
3) I want to run my intellifeed cable out of the grip frame - do you think the MSV-2 will come back enough to press the switch closed for the intellifeed?
I know at least one or two people have a prototype in their hands that they can hopefully experiment with to answer #3.. the other two have me a little stumped right now.
cougar20th
09-01-2009, 02:03 PM
for #1 the easiest way I can think of would be to drill the warp mount & recess a oring into it the same way you do the cp direct mount. Of course theres the oring issue. But couldnt you remove the warp from the other end of the warp bracket. Leaving the bracket in place.
Shirow
09-01-2009, 02:16 PM
for #1 the easiest way I can think of would be to drill the warp mount & recess a oring into it the same way you do the cp direct mount. Of course theres the oring issue. But couldnt you remove the warp from the other end of the warp bracket. Leaving the bracket in place.
Maybe.. I'm using Luke's back-mounted warp bracket which is a little thicker than the usual bracket so that may be easier (or not) to deal with.
I can remove the warp from the other end, but if I get shot in the bottom of the grip frame or get splattered, I like to remove the bracket to clean all the paint out. Might just be something I don't do too often.
TwilightG
09-01-2009, 02:19 PM
Does the Flatline have two outputs?
I think you'd need to fabricate a gas-thru block like this --> http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=243138
Connect one output to the valve and the other to the block. Otherwise, you'd need a t-connector of some sort
For the intellifeed, you might need to attach some sort of pin to the back of the msv lever to close the switch. Like BigEvil pointed out, the switch itself could also act as a little bit of a spring return to the MSV as a result too.
Shirow
09-01-2009, 02:23 PM
No, I don't believe it does have two outputs. That gas-thru block might work, maybe someone will come up with one for this frame.. that'd be nice ;)
BigEvil
09-01-2009, 02:43 PM
The easist way to go with a flatline is to just forget the sleeper mod and mount the LPR externally similar to this
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee302/smoothice16/motm/2007junopen-Loguzzzzzz.jpg
Might have to add a T fitting to the Flatline to make an extra port.
Looper
09-01-2009, 03:22 PM
Check out this link to an MCB thread... I would buy some but each end user setup would be different.
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=243138
You could mount the warp on the top of the ASA (Warp-ASA-Frame) and get longer screws to hold everything in place. It works, I've done it before. It'll drop the Warp down by another inch so you'll have to compensate with a longer feed tube unless you have enough slack. Only thing is, you have to really German torque it down or any movement will crack the seal between the frame and ASA. Same thing will happen if you sandwich the warp between the 2 (frame-warp-ASA). My frame never stripped out so it should be fine for the long haul.
Another setup I had used a macro fitting that went through the bottom of a drop I drilled out and screwed into the bottom of a pnume frame. You'll need a regulator with dual outputs for that to work or just use a t-fitting but the t-fitting makes it look all bulky.
I used the gauge port and mounted the gauge on the ASA of the marker, worked out well.
Shirow
09-01-2009, 06:15 PM
The easist way to go with a flatline is to just forget the sleeper mod and mount the LPR externally similar to this
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee302/smoothice16/motm/2007junopen-Loguzzzzzz.jpg
Might have to add a T fitting to the Flatline to make an extra port.
yeah, that is the easy way but I don't like it... I'd probably rather just get a screw in and skip the flatline if that was my only option. I think gassing through the dovetail mount might work it's just potentially a bit dangerous if it's not all locked down tight and gassed up.
do you know how the LPR is attached in that pic?
do you know how the LPR is attached in that pic?
It's screwed into a 90* air fitting.
or just use a different asa.
tippmann makes one with a built in lpr. then you have room for a battery and making it EP.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i83/mannsports/EP%20Logic/IMG_3522.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i83/mannsports/EP%20Logic/IMG_3534.jpg
Shirow
09-01-2009, 08:40 PM
or just use a different asa.
tippmann makes one with a built in lpr. then you have room for a battery and making it EP.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i83/mannsports/EP%20Logic/IMG_3522.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i83/mannsports/EP%20Logic/IMG_3534.jpg
Isn't the Tippman one a screw in ASA though? It's hard to tell from those pictures.
So that thing just regulates the pressure going out to the lp fitting not the macro fitting right?
If that's the case then it will work extremely well with the smaller mag frames like the Intel and Benchmark . Never knew something like this was out. I would have to reanno it to get the Tippmann emblem off though :p
The cleanest way you're going to be able to continue flatline usage for the pneumag app is like the original, with the LPR concealed in the fore grip running a line through the rail into the frame...
its unfortunate, yes...
The only other way you could do it, MAYBE, I think would be a modified Benchmark style Flatline mount, but you'd have to figure out how to cut an internal channel, which would have to be gasketed, to route the flow up into the grip frame... this piece would be really complicated, plus would need a dovetail somewhere in the mix (unless you made a new one from scratch?) to attach it.
going through the warp bracket... woof its just adding that many more potential leak locations to the mix...
OR... cut the warp mount so that it could be slid out from in between the frame and ASA/whatever... and then connect the ASA/whatever to the frame with a short length of hardline, that also has a space cut out for it through the warp-mount?
Sorry for the stream of thought post... I haven't been excited about anything paintball to design parts in my head in quite a while.
Shirow
09-01-2009, 09:11 PM
Well, in a best case hypothetical situation I'd think the perfect solution would be a grip mounted dovetail rail that has a warp bracket built into it.. imagine Luke's warpfeed-rear bracket (http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0005.htm) but instead of attaching to the bottom of the frame, it's part of the rail.. then a hole tapped in the side of the rail for a 90* fitting and an air channel thru the rail to the bottom of the gripframe.
So Luke.. wanna make one? :)
Shirow
09-01-2009, 09:12 PM
The cleanest way you're going to be able to continue flatline usage for the pneumag app is like the original, with the LPR concealed in the fore grip running a line through the rail into the frame...
its unfortunate, yes...
The only other way you could do it, MAYBE, I think would be a modified Benchmark style Flatline mount, but you'd have to figure out how to cut an internal channel, which would have to be gasketed, to route the flow up into the grip frame... this piece would be really complicated, plus would need a dovetail somewhere in the mix (unless you made a new one from scratch?) to attach it.
going through the warp bracket... woof its just adding that many more potential leak locations to the mix...
OR... cut the warp mount so that it could be slid out from in between the frame and ASA/whatever... and then connect the ASA/whatever to the frame with a short length of hardline, that also has a space cut out for it through the warp-mount?
Sorry for the stream of thought post... I haven't been excited about anything paintball to design parts in my head in quite a while.
Yeah, I have thought of these... the big downside I think in trying to tap air through the bracket is exactly what you brought up - a screw loosens a bit on the field and you have 900+ psi leaking out the bottom of your grip.
Isn't the Tippman one a screw in ASA though? It's hard to tell from those pictures.
yep
Shirow
09-02-2009, 06:56 AM
Well, in a best case hypothetical situation I'd think the perfect solution would be a grip mounted dovetail rail that has a warp bracket built into it.. imagine Luke's warpfeed-rear bracket (http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0005.htm) but instead of attaching to the bottom of the frame, it's part of the rail.. then a hole tapped in the side of the rail for a 90* fitting and an air channel thru the rail to the bottom of the gripframe.
So Luke.. wanna make one? :)
Actually, in thinking about this more, this could work well.. if you wanted to use a screw in, you just mount any screw in ASA to the dovetail mount, run macroline from the screw in to the rail and you acheive the same output. That way you can use a screw in or dovetail mounted tank with the same rail, and if the warp bracket is part of the rail, there's nothing else for the air to go through. So you'd just need some kind of gasket between the rail and the bottom of the grip, an o-ring could work.
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