Barrel and fire rate?

[hillg]

Just played today for the first time in about a year and I think I need a barrel. I think I got a 14in barrel splash that worked good but want to get something better. I play mostly woods ball but need something that can handle speedball also. The barrel shot well but balls would cure some of the time and am looking for something better. Any help would be great. I also would like to know what I can do to make the gun faster. I have a xvalve with a benchmark dbk trigger. What options do I have.

[Ando]

Time to get better paint brother. Unless the bore of your barrel is FUBAR'ed, I would suspect your field selling substandard paint or you purchased some Wally World Leet Balls :p

[Waffleman]

if you mean a splash anno barrel then its prolly pretty old and a barrel is a nice upgrade that would help accuracy. However as Ando said the barrel might not be to blame if you had crummy paint or the barrel was really dirty.

[hillg]

the paint was called toxic i think and the barrel was clean. it was a splash smartparts barrel. one u would get with a splash kit.

[secretweaponevan]

That is an old barrel. Most old barrels had a very large bore.

Try a newer sized-bore barrel. CP makes pretty cheap ones.

[hillg]

now if i end up getting a ule body what kind of barrel should i get then? I know I could get a kit but is that something I would need?

[gunangel]

if you get a ule it is cocker threaded, so any cocker threaded barrel will work.

a barrel kit is nice because it has smaller bores, but if you can find one that is fairly small it will be fine. i prefer no porting because it is easy to clean out to keep it shooting straight. as sad as it is a freak is not bad.

a barrel study showed that you need roughly 6-8 inches to get the ball up to speed (you would want an insert at least that long) and a 8-12 inch should be more than adequate. a unibore would be ideal.

the splash barrels work fine, but they start porting really far back which is not the most efficient, and iirc they have a coating rather than metal that acts as the inner surface of the ball which is less than ideal.

and like it has been said some decent name brand paint is good and even if the barrel looks clean make sure you get the porting clean as any paint in there will grab the ball. and even though it sounds wrong keep your balls dry :p

[BiNumber3]

The splash barrels are almost always some version of the Smart Parts All American, tho there are some others like the SP Venturi.

The bore size on mine is .693

There are aluminum backed AA's and Steel (not too sure on that, have seen some with flaking so I'm guessing chrome plated steel or brass)

Balls curving may be caused by bad paint, or I've heard some All-Americans that were glued together werent straight on when glued.

As for whether or not you need a kit... I would say no, for the most part, any bore barrel i've used has been good enough for any paint that I use. The paint you use will most likely affect your accuracy more than a barrel, unless the barrel is flawed (not aligned, or bad finish on the bore, etc.)

[Frizzle Fry]

now if i end up getting a ule body what kind of barrel should i get then? I know I could get a kit but is that something I would need?

Something with a bore under .689 is best... I generally use smaller than that. A tight fit is good, and paint is getting smaller, so small in fact that I can't use my Lapco Bigshots (.689) anymore :confused: I've had to update to an Autospirit and a Picoshot.

Thank god most of my markers take SS freak backs :cool:

[Spider-TW]

Barrel kits help most when your paint is consistent. They at least help you size for the best average size in a case. They also let you play with the same barrel shape and length all the time, which can get comfortable. Whenever you check paint size, remember to use about 10 balls or more. In changing weather from morning to afternoon, check the size after it warms up. Some paint is really bad about swelling, especially when it started out small (< 0.684). When paint is good and strong, you can run a tight bore. When one ball in twenty is a weak egg, you have to run a large bore.

If you can pick your paint, that helps, but it is no guarantee that the same brand will be that size next time. The best day you can have is with consistent paint and a barrel that matches by any method. I play scenarios mostly and don't get to buy much paint of my choice.

[Newt]

My wife shoots a Deadlywind Fibur barrel with the Freak inserts. It's easily one of the quietest barrels I've ever heard. I shoot a J&J ceramic which is nearly as good at 1/4 the price. Palmers is great too, if you don't mind the weight of brass.

Anything on those lines will do well for you. I'd go 8" if you don't mind a loud, unported barrel. Add at least 4" of porting to that (bringing you to ~ 12") if you want a reasonably quiet shot.

[Bagheera]

Are you using cocker threaded or twistlock?