Classic RT problems

[Timber_Ghost]

Ok. So playin with my classic RT I ran into some problems. During the middle of a game it started a leak out the back of the valve. If I shot then it would stop leaking and then resume after a few seconds if I didnt shoot. I dissassembled it and checked the orings. Now it wont even engage the sear. Not really sure what to do from here.

[Sumthinwicked]

put everythign back in correctly ? i would pull the valve break it down completely use the spec sheet relube the back springpack(only if you have the right kind of lube!)clean it real good if u do or if not just check for debree and leave it be but make sure it goes in the right way ////put it back together and try it then ...come back if u need more help i have done stupid things like put something in backwards and bam gun dont work LOL :rolleyes:

[Ando]

Did you ck the piston oring? If the oring around the piston is fine then it's your piston itself. You can either buy a new one or open it up and fix it.

And for your not shooting problem...
1. Not enough pressure in your tank
2. Since you pulled it apart. You might just need to tweak your adj knob some more.

[secretweaponevan]

From the symptom you described, you have a leaky regulator seat o-ring. It is leaking, over-pressurizing the system, then the over-pressure blow off valve in the regulator piston is activating.

"Now it wont even engage the sear."
Is the bolt fully seated? Push on it with a squeegie and see if that does the trick. If it does, you have bolt stick.

[Timber_Ghost]

Does anybody have a link to an elploded diagram of my gun so I can check and make sure ive got it together right. Im almost positive I do but I still cant get this thing to work.

[Timber_Ghost]

nevermind I found one.

[Timber_Ghost]

Well ive checked and it seems that all parts are present. I cannot figure out what is going on for the life of me. When I turn my tank on air jets out the back of the valve. then the gun begins to fart, for the lack of a better word, down the barrel in like 1 to 3 second intervals. the sear still does not feel like it is being engaged at all and pushing on bolt with a squeegee doesnt really help at all.

[Spider-TW]

Well ive checked and it seems that all parts are present. I cannot figure out what is going on for the life of me. When I turn my tank on air jets out the back of the valve. then the gun begins to fart, for the lack of a better word, down the barrel in like 1 to 3 second intervals. the sear still does not feel like it is being engaged at all and pushing on bolt with a squeegee doesnt really help at all.
If the sear is not engaged and you are still leaking air, your on/off is leaking by.

It has never caused me trouble, but I have had an RT on/off top unscrew its top off slightly after I had disassembled it and re-installed it. Besides checking the orings, now I make sure the head is on straight. :)

[jforbes555666]

I own a RT classic. I needed to adjust the velocity lower for feild regulation and turned it the wrong way and it started blow out the back of the valve. I do not know if this is the same problem but it is an idea.

[Timber_Ghost]

Okay. So I think I have isolated the problem to the reg seat. Im gonna have to order a parts kit from agd and then we'll see what else needs fixin from there. What kind of lube is used in the spring pack btw? And what would be the symptoms of a bad spring pack?

[secretweaponevan]

Okay. So I think I have isolated the problem to the reg seat. Im gonna have to order a parts kit from agd and then we'll see what else needs fixin from there. What kind of lube is used in the spring pack btw? And what would be the symptoms of a bad spring pack?

Any type of grease is good for the spring pack. I think TK recommends white lithium grease in the video manual, but anything that will keep the spring pack from rusting.

A bad spring pack won't get the marker up to velocity.

[Ando]

Okay. So I think I have isolated the problem to the reg seat. Im gonna have to order a parts kit from agd and then we'll see what else needs fixin from there. What kind of lube is used in the spring pack btw? And what would be the symptoms of a bad spring pack?

I don't use any lube for the pack. I cleaned all that nasty smelly crap off that came with it. just keep it lubed with reg oil and you'll be fine. I would say before you go spend anymore money. I would take the brass piston apart and ck it first to see if the rubber seal inside has torn or is really worn. If it's just worn, flip the rubber seal around, reinstall everything and see if you still get the leak. I wish I had done a step by step breakdown when I did mine. If you need help with it let me know in PM.

[Timber_Ghost]

Ok. Got my parts in. replaced the orings. Idk if this is correct with the reg seat but am I supposed to have two orings back here?

http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv27/drbrune1987/PANA0264.jpg

Doing this now makes the sear be engaged. However. The gun still sporadically farts down the barrel and leaks out of the back of the reg. If the trigger is pulled, all of my leaks stop.

[secretweaponevan]

Ok. Got my parts in. replaced the orings. Idk if this is correct with the reg seat but am I supposed to have two orings back here?

Assemble according to the blow-up:
http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/Images/explovalve-thumb.jpg (http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/downloads/retroexploded1.pdf)

Doing this now makes the sear be engaged. However. The gun still sporadically farts down the barrel (Powertube O-ring Leak) and leaks out of the back of the reg (Velocity is too high or your reg piston is bad). If the trigger is pulled, all of my leaks stop.
Answers in Red.

[Ando]

There should only be 1 oring in that area you pictured. Pull out the one in the reg body.
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If it's hissing out the back.
http://i37.tinypic.com/21eummo.jpg
The brass piston is your problem. See if the outer o-ring is alright. If it is then you'll have to buy a new piston or open it up and fix it yourself.

It's not hard to do. Look at it closely and you'll see a faint line in the larger part of the piston, that's where to 2 halfs come apart. The halfs are press together not threaded. I took mine apart about 2 months ago but never documented what I did. Wish I had. :(

Basically all you need is 2 sets of vice grips or a bench vice (which will be easier). FYI...You'll have to protect the piston from the teeth of the vice. I used duck tape and rapped it a good 5-8 time around the 2 piston halves, that will keep the teeth from eating into the brass housing. You might have to go a few more raps, depending on how large the teeth are on your vice. Clamp the grips down, work the piston housing apart and pull everything out.

Last thing that should come out is a rubber disk. That's your problem. Inspect it. If it's cut then your SOL. If not then flip it around, reinstall it, assemble the piston and reassemble the valve. This should fix the leak. If it doesn't then off to the ADG store with ya, the disk is probably worn out or torn. :cry:
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As for your farting down the barrel. Do you have a lvl 10 installed?
That's what your setup should look like. Make sure your 3 o-rings are good and the white o-ring in the brass carrier should be facing down towards the valve.

If you're having a constant hiss coming out the barrel. Go down a carrier size.
http://i36.tinypic.com/333cyhj.jpg

Last thing....Ck your barrel nubbins. Someone here had a problem with them setting off their lvl 10. Just replace them and see if that fixes it.

[Timber_Ghost]

Well my piston absolutely would not come apart so back to the store we go...

[Ando]

That sucks man. It takes a bit of pressure to pull apart due to the ends being pressed together. If you want, I can do it for ya and I'll send it back the next day.

But luckily, they don’t cost too much and should fix your leak.