View Full Version : How Dusty should Dust be?
I recently picked up a Dust black CCM feedneck to go with what I thought was a dust black ULE body. When it came in, it was more flat than dust imo. the finish was more simliar to what would be found say on a J&J Elite kit, which I always thought was flat. Main reason I ask is that I was getting ready to send some parts out to have them anoed dust black including the barrel backs, but if this is the finish...... I was originally comparing to the differences in a dust black Intelli that I have and a gloss one. I'm a bit confused now to say the least.
vf-xx
10-02-2009, 01:46 PM
I'd be interested in seeing what other people post here. When I was looking there seems to me that some folks use Dust, Satin, and flat interchangeably.
When I stop to think about it they shouldn't be, especially when you compare them to say, wall paints, where there is a distinct difference between Satin an flat.
Hard to say
Frizzle Fry
10-02-2009, 01:46 PM
I've found that every dust is different.
The SmartFarts dust black is more "flat", the PTP dust black is more "satin" (which is what they call it), and some milsim dust parts I've seen could easily be called "dirt" instead of "dust". I'm not 100% sure of what part of the process effects this, but I do know that many anodizers can match your "dust style"
BigEvil
10-02-2009, 01:57 PM
IMO;
DUST black = flat black.
There are variations by manufacturers. CP dust black is more like a semi gloss. Also, some have more textured finished depending on what media the anno people used to get the 'dust'.
rawbutter
10-02-2009, 01:58 PM
Main reason I ask is that I was getting ready to send some parts out to have them anoed dust black including the barrel backs, but if this is the finish...... I was originally comparing to the differences in a dust black Intelli that I have and a gloss one. I'm a bit confused now to say the least.
Perhaps you could send out a dust black part (which you want everything else to match) along with the all the other parts that need anno. A good annodizer should be able to match any color/finish if you provide them a sample of what you want.
Well, I have at least three different levels of dust/gloss/sheen going on. I have a PTP Micro mag that is pretty close to the same sheen as the J&J Elite barrel kit which is typical of J&J modern finishes. I have two Intelliframes, one is definitely glossy and would be comparable to say the sheen you would find on a bike grip. The other is what I would have called dust, and it is pretty comparable to the dust black CP on/off that I have. The ULE body is probably a little shinier that the dust frame, but not quite as shiny as the gloss frame... and it pretty much matches the X-valve. So are they dust or gloss? I wanted to get the barrel backs anoed so that they would match the ULE (and to get rid of the bright white lettering), but still want them to match the valve, which I really don't want to have to ano.
Starting to think about breaking out the black spray paint.
Mongoose
10-02-2009, 02:02 PM
Perhaps you could send out a dust black part (which you want everything else to match) along with the all the other parts that need anno. A good annodizer should be able to match any color/finish if you provide them a sample of what you want.
Thats the way to go :cheers:
It all depends on the dye they are using along with the prep worked needed.......trust me there are 100 different kinds of black
Mongoose
10-02-2009, 02:04 PM
Well, I have at least three different levels of dust/gloss/sheen going on. I have a PTP Micro mag that is pretty close to the same sheen as the J&J Elite barrel kit which is typical of J&J modern finishes. I have two Intelliframes, one is definitely glossy and would be comparable to say the sheen you would find on a bike grip. The other is what I would have called dust, and it is pretty comparable to the dust black CP on/off that I have. The ULE body is probably a little shinier that the dust frame, but not quite as shiny as the gloss frame... and it pretty much matches the X-valve. So are they dust or gloss? I wanted to get the barrel backs anoed so that they would match the ULE (and to get rid of the bright white lettering), but still want them to match the valve, which I really don't want to have to ano.
Starting to think about breaking out the black spray paint.
Send it all to me.......i'll send you back a matching Dust black marker
But whatever you do.....put the can down :nono:
FoggyFallRiv
10-02-2009, 02:07 PM
whoa! spraypaint for a matching dust black? Definately find a good annodizer and send them all the parts you need ano'd. They should be able to send a color sample but it might differ due to the medium being ano'd.
Send it all to me.......i'll send you back a matching Dust black marker
But whatever you do.....put the can down :nono:
Price list? I have someone that I was going to have do the job, but he has taken a short hiatus as he is moving his gear. His prices are REALLY reasonable, but I wouldn't mind comparing.
More or less kidding on the rattle can paint.
BiNumber3
10-02-2009, 02:20 PM
How is dust prepped for a part? Media-blast the body to get the dust look and then anno?
Mongoose
10-02-2009, 02:22 PM
Price list? I have someone that I was going to have do the job, but he has taken a short hiatus as he is moving his gear. His prices are REALLY reasonable, but I wouldn't mind comparing.
More or less kidding on the rattle can paint.
Make a list of all the parts, send me a pm and i will be able to give you a quote. :cheers:
SSP REAPER
10-02-2009, 02:27 PM
How is dust prepped for a part? Media-blast the body to get the dust look and then anno?
Yeah generally. From what I understand the item would get bead blasted so it is dull and then they clean it up a little and ano it. If the part underneath is not polished, you will get a dust finish :shooting:
Mongoose
10-02-2009, 02:35 PM
Yeah generally. From what I understand the item would get bead blasted so it is dull and then they clean it up a little and ano it. If the part underneath is not polished, you will get a dust finish :shooting:
That is correct. the finish is what makes them dust/satin/flat.....whatever you wanna call it.
I use the same color dye for all my gloss and dust parts.
vf-xx
10-02-2009, 02:36 PM
Yeah generally. From what I understand the item would get bead blasted so it is dull and then they clean it up a little and ano it. If the part underneath is not polished, you will get a dust finish :shooting:
So theoretically dust finish can vary based on the media type/size?
Mongoose
10-02-2009, 02:44 PM
So theoretically dust finish can vary based on the media type/size?
Yes that and the actual dye that is being used
Make a list of all the parts, send me a pm and i will be able to give you a quote. :cheers:
Pm sent.
I had a buddy that getto'ed a spider. Used RIT cloth Dye to ano his marker. Actually came out awesome with one minor blemish. :rofl:
Carnage reigns
10-05-2009, 10:02 AM
I recently picked up a Dust black CCM feedneck to go with what I thought was a dust black ULE body. When it came in, it was more flat than dust imo. the finish was more simliar to what would be found say on a J&J Elite kit, which I always thought was flat. Main reason I ask is that I was getting ready to send some parts out to have them anoed dust black including the barrel backs, but if this is the finish...... I was originally comparing to the differences in a dust black Intelli that I have and a gloss one. I'm a bit confused now to say the least.
I thought the CCM feedneck was pretty dust so I guess it's a matter of perspective.
The one I got is VERY flat. To the point of almost being rough. I always considered dust to me more semi gloss or maybe satin. Similiar to a CP on/off.
LK-13
10-05-2009, 02:43 PM
"dust" anodizing which is flat, matt, satin, and a host of other words is done by blasting the parts (sand blast / media blast) before going into the anodizing tank.
the relative size of the blasting media and the pressure at which the media is blasted
will effect the end products level of sheen and or specular reflection.
with out an industry standard to work with, every company can set up their operation the way they see fit.
end result, everybody is just a little different.
only real solution is find a company the does anodizing that you feel you can trust, because lord knows there have been issues there lately,
and get all the parts you want to match re-done by that company at the same time.
it's the only way to get a 100% sure match.
added expense? well yes.
but think of it like going from a factory paint job on your car, to a custom paint job by one of the high end hod rod paint shops.
might not be factory but........ DAMN!!
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