Coming Back to PB

[Neo-Gp]

Its been almost four years since I stepped onto a piantball field. Since I got married and had kids sold my markers and tanks. Well have a new job and the new guys play scenario's a few times a year. Naturally here's my excuse to get back into it, not as if I needed one.

I will only be playing scenario and local woods ball. My previous experince was scenarios as well.

I am loooking for a dependable marker to run on NO, I loved the mags I had for easy of disassembly modifictaion and maintenance. The guns always performed no matter the elements rain, sleet, snow, mud, etc..

I have techinical skills to learn and fix anything. So with that boring you...

Is this worth $100

Smart Parts Ion Paintball Gun
Smart Parts ION Paintball Black Roller Trigger
Smart Parts Body Kit [Ion] Red
Smart Parts Impulse / Shocker / Ion Q-Lock Low Rise Feed Neck Black
Dye 03 Sticky Grips
Check It Products Uni-Mount 2 On/Off Paintball Gun ASA's with Rails

[MeÐiCX]

$100? Ya not bad deal. Ions aren't the best markers for the elements...

[insixdays777]

Honestly if you are going the IONish route. You should pick up a SP Vibe. They can be had for 100.00 bucks. Better than the ION because:

1) Antichop bolt - acts somewhat like lvl10 automag bolt. It physically cant chop paint.
2) easy field strip. Can take the bolt out in less that 30seconds. One screw and it pulls right out the back. Ions are the biggest pain in the rear to get to the bolt. You have to take out 3 screws, remove the grip frame, disconect internal hoses and the battery and remove barbs from inside the gun just to lube the bolt. On a good day it takes 10mins.
3) Vibe have a better/improved regulator.
4) Vibes feel more solid.
5) Vibes have a better stock trigger than Ions.

Go with the Vibe if you are set on going with an smartparts gun.

[Neo-Gp]

Honestly if you are going the IONish route. You should pick up a SP Vibe. They can be had for 100.00 bucks. Better than the ION because:

1) Antichop bolt - acts somewhat like lvl10 automag bolt. It physically cant chop paint.
2) easy field strip. Can take the bolt out in less that 30seconds. One screw and it pulls right out the back. Ions are the biggest pain in the rear to get to the bolt. You have to take out 3 screws, remove the grip frame, disconect internal hoses and the battery and remove barbs from inside the gun just to lube the bolt. On a good day it takes 10mins.
3) Vibe have a better/improved regulator.
4) Vibes feel more solid.
5) Vibes have a better stock trigger than Ions.

Go with the Vibe if you are set on going with an smartparts gun.

One of the guys I work with has this...thought it might be a "deal"..

I would prefer to pick up a nice mag setup..I have about $300 to spend..
intelliframe, x-valve, threaded body..

[BiNumber3]

if you play scenario woods more, x-valve or any RT style valve is overkill imo, you won't reach the limit of a classic valve even with a pneu/electro setup unless you're that good at pulling the trigger fast.

So instead of putting down 200 for an x-valve, you can put down around 100 for a full classic mag setup, if you're lucky, you might find a deal on craigslist or something for a mag with an air tank and whatnot for less than 200

and if you want a threaded body and intelli, then you'll be spending over 300:
a mag with intelli with ule body and x-valve would probably run you around 400, then you need a barrel and an hp air tank (x and rt style valves dont run co2)

[punkncat]

Not a bad deal really. If you look around you can find pretty well upgraded Ions around that range. The only thing that seemed to be missing was a decent barrel, the stock one stinks.

My daughter uses an Ion that I have been holding for a freind in Iraq for the past two winters. Aside from changing the battery, I have not had to do a thing to it. Been a really dependable shooter.

[going_home]

Not a fan of Ions.
Having said that I just traded for an SP1 and I love it !
You can get them new for $175.00 shipped on Ebay.
Or used for cheaper.
I had a Vibe and didnt like it at all, but the SP1 is a blast.


;)

[MANN]

I have about $300 to spend..


you need to find a good 03 viking. that is in the 300-350 range.

[Neo-Gp]

binumber3

Great advice. I hadn't really thought about going the classic valve route. The previous mag I owned with a classic valve always had pressure issues. I would be shooting at 250 on one tank the next tank would be 320..It juts never stayed consistant and I was always checking the speed, so I bought the x-valve package and never had a problem..


going_home

I'll look into it, a bit more. At first glance, I'm still not sure I want to go electro...I like to be able to watch everything move and see how things wear and pivot. circuit boards are modern marvels at the molecular level. I cant see electricity moving.

MANN

Same repsonse as above, I haven't convinced myself of going electro. I'd love an emag because it will operate in either mode, but thats not in the budget this year.

[Shirow]

I'm sure you can find a decent mag in the BST forum for ~$300. You know you like 'em, they are a great scenario/woodsball gun... why mess with what you know?

[kcombs9]

there are 2 classic mags up for sale now for 120ish each.

[Xceolite]

I agree. Get a mag for the woods.
If you are thinking about getting an electro...Infinity legends are way underrated. you can get a used one for under $200. they shoot great and the maintaince is"littley oil the ram every 20,000 balls". i have one in the bottom of my bag as a backup for anyone and everyone and it always works.

[Steelrat]

I never thought of the mag as a good woodsball or scenario gun, the efficiency seems to be a big negative when the next air fill is a long hike away. The best mech for scenario would be a nice cocker, just for it's efficiency. Though, strangely, the best gun for efficiency and reliability would probably be a viking.

[tasker89]

NeoGp....sent you a PM.

[MANN]

I'll look into it, a bit more. At first glance, I'm still not sure I want to go electro...I like to be able to watch everything move and see how things wear and pivot. circuit boards are modern marvels at the molecular level. I cant see electricity moving.


Vikings are very very simple electric markers. In fact you will more than likely never have to change the settings on them.

If you are looking mech go for a automag (they are not as troublesome as semi autocockers). If you are going for a pump get a sniper(autococker).

[Sumthinwicked]

:rolleyes: for pump u mean phantom/ grey ghost / carter righhhhhhhttttt??"??????

[Neo-Gp]

NeoGp....sent you a PM.

Replied to your PM


Vikings are very very simple electric markers. In fact you will more than likely never have to change the settings on them.

If you are looking mech go for a automag (they are not as troublesome as semi autocockers). If you are going for a pump get a sniper(autococker).

I have never shot a pump before. I have seen them in action. Went to EMR for castlequest pump against semis....errrr 2003??.
Was an interesting hour. I will say I did underestimate them. But for what Im playing and I'm going to stay away from the pumps.


I have found a few offers for mags, also seen a few good prices and reviews on invert mini packages?? Anyone? Good bad or indifferent?

[Xceolite]

I never thought of the mag as a good woodsball or scenario gun, the efficiency seems to be a big negative when the next air fill is a long hike away. The best mech for scenario would be a nice cocker, just for it's efficiency. Though, strangely, the best gun for efficiency and reliability would probably be a viking.

I agree with the efficiency. I find a mag just shots straight and long through branches. You can shoot less :) if you really want to.

[ProblemKinder]

pumps are only fun when you're the only one that has one :shooting:

but I'm sort of a glutton for pain =]

[stondroopy]

Neo im thinking of playing again and I think I may be picking up a mini. Since I need a tank too, there are some fantastic deals for new and used.

[CatoRockwell]

One of the guys I work with has this...thought it might be a "deal"..

I would prefer to pick up a nice mag setup..I have about $300 to spend..
intelliframe, x-valve, threaded body..

Don't listen to these guys, I play woodsball primarily, and the xvalve has been totally worth it :rolleyes:

Even in woodsball it's good to be able to lay down the paint for cover fire, or for blitzing, just my opinion.

Anyhoo:

I bought an xvalve automag used for a friend I got hooked on mags on these forums for $250 last week. It was a great deal no doubt, just keep your eyes on the classifieds, there are awesome deals to be had.

Good luck, its always good to have players get back into the game.

[Stayhuge]

Currently, I have three markers and each is different:

Dallara Mag, X valve, soon to be pneu'd
Palmers Blazer, single trigger
Phantom VSC. Just got a 13ci tank for it, so no more 12 grams

I try to rotate them, but lately, the Palmer's has been my favorite for woodsball. Unique and consistent. Ton of fun to play with and always a head turner, especially when I get that thing ripping :shooting: . They are in the $350-400 range though, so might not be an option now for you. Maybe something to look into in the future as a backup or secondary marker.

As for my mag, I have never had a more reliable gun. And I have owned a ton of different ones from tippmann's, to cockers, to shockers and Evil Omens. Had some spyders in there as backups, and still do as loaners.

For you, as a mostly scenario player, I would look into a nice regular mag. Try to find one that has a classic valve, and a Level 10 bolt. Maybe even an Intelliframe and a decent barrel. Could probably be had for a little less than $200, maybe $175. Buy a decent compressed air tank. Try over on PBN. I have picked up my last two, one was a 68/4500 Crossfire which was New (Born date 3/09) and I got in June. Got it for $105 shipped. The last one I picked up for $100 and was a 88/4500 with a fresh hydro of 8/09 with a cover. That will keep you under the $300 mark. Then, a little down the road, switch out the body (you can get a ULE used in good shape for $85ish and a barrel and sell whatever body you have for $25. And you can then sell your valve for $60-70ish and pick up an X-valve for $200 or an RT valve for $120 or less. The point is that you can do the upgrades down the road, but the foundation you will have at first.

As for the compressed air suggestion, I have experienced that even though the classic valves can run on CO2, they tend to run better and more consistent on Compressed air, and if you are planning to upgrade the valve down the road, it is better to already have the Compressed air, rather than need to buy that at the time of upgrade.

Lastly, you could always pick up a classic RT for $175-200 and run it on compressed air. The bad part is that you will not be able to upgrade the body to ULE. So it will always be heavy, but is probably your best bang for the buck. Good luck, and be sure to ask questions. There are tons of people like me who are always eager to share experience and advice with others.

:cheers: