Shaft
02-03-2002, 04:08 PM
Ok, all this talk of powdercoating and painting mags made me think that I can offer some data that may prove useful.
One of my favorite finds for airbrushing has been a paint called AutoAir by Createx. It's formulated for airbrush, but could be brushed on if need be. The beauty of this paint is that it's a water based enamel. This makes it extremely easy to clean (no nasty toxic solvents that can maim you and your future children required). Because its an enamel designed for automotive use, it will take about any standard automotive clear and is resistant to UV fade.
It's good stuff. I don't work for them - I've been airbrushing for 12years now, and this has been one of my favorite products (since my Iwata HP-C "the workhorse").
I haven't painted an paintball gun before, but it won't be much different than any other surface.
First, do your homework. I mention this stuff as a piece of information for you to START with.
http://www.createxcolors.com/product_lines/auto_air_airbrush_colors.htm
This site explains the paint. Note that the paint requires additives (bond-all and a catalyst). These will need to be purchased with the paint and mixed accordingly.
It's very important that anything you paint must be clean AND degreased!!! Grease is probably the biggest culprit for chips and short life in painted guns' finishes. Use a high quality degreaser. I've had excellent success with the product that POR-15 makes. http://www.por15.com/metalprep_degrease.html I used this on my Pontiac motor. It has a nice quality that it turns purple in the presence of grease. So it is obvious when you're free of grease on your metal.
When the job is done, you've heat set the paint try taking the parts to an auto-body place and see if they can clear it for you. Sometimes they may throw it in the booth and hit it while spraying something else... and they may not charge you. This is an old method for getting stuff cleared when you're broke and painting guitars for beer money.
A finish like this should last for years. It won't be as tough as a powdercoat but close to it.
Disclaimer: If I don't do the work, I make no guarantees. And no, I won't paint your mag. It would be fun, but my dance card is full.
I offer this as a suggestion. The powdercoat work I've seen is sweet and fairly cheap. Painting has its merits too - for instance one could paint tight detailed objects and lettering by painting.
Yeah yeah, enough from me. Take care.
Have fun!
One of my favorite finds for airbrushing has been a paint called AutoAir by Createx. It's formulated for airbrush, but could be brushed on if need be. The beauty of this paint is that it's a water based enamel. This makes it extremely easy to clean (no nasty toxic solvents that can maim you and your future children required). Because its an enamel designed for automotive use, it will take about any standard automotive clear and is resistant to UV fade.
It's good stuff. I don't work for them - I've been airbrushing for 12years now, and this has been one of my favorite products (since my Iwata HP-C "the workhorse").
I haven't painted an paintball gun before, but it won't be much different than any other surface.
First, do your homework. I mention this stuff as a piece of information for you to START with.
http://www.createxcolors.com/product_lines/auto_air_airbrush_colors.htm
This site explains the paint. Note that the paint requires additives (bond-all and a catalyst). These will need to be purchased with the paint and mixed accordingly.
It's very important that anything you paint must be clean AND degreased!!! Grease is probably the biggest culprit for chips and short life in painted guns' finishes. Use a high quality degreaser. I've had excellent success with the product that POR-15 makes. http://www.por15.com/metalprep_degrease.html I used this on my Pontiac motor. It has a nice quality that it turns purple in the presence of grease. So it is obvious when you're free of grease on your metal.
When the job is done, you've heat set the paint try taking the parts to an auto-body place and see if they can clear it for you. Sometimes they may throw it in the booth and hit it while spraying something else... and they may not charge you. This is an old method for getting stuff cleared when you're broke and painting guitars for beer money.
A finish like this should last for years. It won't be as tough as a powdercoat but close to it.
Disclaimer: If I don't do the work, I make no guarantees. And no, I won't paint your mag. It would be fun, but my dance card is full.
I offer this as a suggestion. The powdercoat work I've seen is sweet and fairly cheap. Painting has its merits too - for instance one could paint tight detailed objects and lettering by painting.
Yeah yeah, enough from me. Take care.
Have fun!