breaking paint, when RTing

[SR_matt]

Ok so i had a post about this a while back, probably almost 2 years now. heres a bit of back story and how im set up

i got the mag in 06, used the mag only about 5-6 times tops since i got it, mostly at scenario games (usually kinda cold) so there is a huge possibility of bad paint causing most of these issues. i had set it up with the lightest spring (gold ish shorter spring that came on my mag from the factory, i think that is the lightest, maybe i am mistaken). set up the lvl ten really well, vents at basically any point after the bolt is released, and got the ULT with all 6 shims and tossed in a trigger stop to let me rt easily. so then i started having issues where i would be able to shot fine most of the time, if i was rting i would start to break paint on the bolt though, some times if i walked it i would get it once in a while but very rarely.

the last scenario i went to the paint was bad from the temps so everyone was having issues so i swapped to the hardest spring (i had gone there with the med red spring in but swapped to the gray long), loosest barrel, backed out the trigger stop and didnt even try to walk it and was still having issues but i think that was more the paint that the gun.


so my question is should the medium/hard spring have fixed the issues i was having and i was just getting had by the paint probably? would rting cause the bolt breaks and if so how do i remedy that?

another question i have is that the pin when my trigger resets is hard against the trigger if i just let go and let it reset, that isnt exactly what its supposed to be right? would it be bad to grind down my pin so there is a bit of clearance (i like the kick back the 6 shims gives so i dont want to just remove shims). i am not sure if i am chuffing it a bit that causes the breaks and know that if i could get an adjustable tank i would have less issues since i could just turn it up and get a stronger RT like my friends mag

thanks for any help guys
-matt

[kcombs9]

Don't grind the rod, it is threaded so just back it off some and add some lock tit to it so it wont loosen on you, you want about maybe 1/8 spacing from the trigger cause you get some bounce forward when the bolt resets so yeah that could be your problem.

Do one thing at a time, fix the rod first, then try it... Also what hopper do you have? if its just a rev or grav feed you might want to look into a faster one or a warp.

[SR_matt]

Don't grind the rod, it is threaded so just back it off some and add some lock tit to it so it wont loosen on you, you want about maybe 1/8 spacing from the trigger cause you get some bounce forward when the bolt resets so yeah that could be your problem.

Do one thing at a time, fix the rod first, then try it... Also what hopper do you have? if its just a rev or grav feed you might want to look into a faster one or a warp.
thanks im running a reloader b with a boost pack battery

thanks, im going to have to play around with this, just wish i could get decent paint to test with without killing the wallet

-matt

[maniacmechanic]

you should have the thickness of a credit card between your rod & trigger when aired up , the longer the spring is the softer it should be on paint
When forced to use crappy paint I usually will have problems (if I have problems) with barrel breaks ( balls hitting each other in the barrel )

[secretweaponevan]

Do you have a powerfeed body?

Do you have the new parabolic powerfeed plug?

The old plug is the "blender" plug with the flat spot.

[SR_matt]

Do you have a powerfeed body?

Do you have the new parabolic powerfeed plug?

The old plug is the "blender" plug with the flat spot.
no

probably should have included more info on my mag, running vert ule body, x valve, inteli frame with a viper blade trigger, guerrilla air HP tank ran from the tank right into the valve


ok so if i reset the pin will that probably give me less chance of chuffing when i walk the trigger as well?
-matt

[Ando]

Pull your feed neck and barrel off and run your fingers around the breach area. See if there's something sharp slicing the balls. Some knucklehead over here cross threaded his detentes (or was it his feed neck:tard: ) and caused a bunch of problems. He had a sliver that pushed down in the breach area and every time he fired a ball, it would just blow up in his marker.

Have you also tried another barrel?

[SR_matt]

ya tried multiple barrels, i looked a little for an issue with a bur and didnt find any but didnt give it a great going over yet. the breaking was pretty much only with the RTing or with bad paint, i could shoot slowly all day and have no issues but come on who wants to shoot slow when they see some one bumping up a bunker ;)

-matt

[Ando]

I'm assuming you have a lvl 10 since your running a X-Valve...
Have you tried another hopper?

If it isn't something in the breach busting your balls. They must be getting chopped by the bolt. Are you certain your lvl 10 is set right and/or there might be something screwy with your hopper. You have your reloader set to the highest setting right?

[smeek]

How's your detent? Something that hasn't been asked yet that should be checked. I used my brand new mag with a rotor over the past weekend and the detent failed within 2 cases of paint. I was getting double, triple and even quadruple feeds and breaking paint because of it so I switched guns. I still need to get a replacement detent.

[SR_matt]

i havent tried another hopper but i really dont see what would be screwing with it, ya it is set at the highest setting.

the detent is fine.

i am thinking its gota be that i dont have any space on my pin when aired up so it must be chuffing/short stroking when i walk or rt it. i am going to try shortening the pin (i assume it is locktited in from the factory o i guess i need to grab a pocket torch and vice grips to adjust it).

thanks
-matt

[Abizdafuzz]

I have never needed to heat the rod to turn it, I just use a pair of neddle noses to grip the rod and hold the sear/clevis in my hand and slowly turn it how much is needed for that change.

[athomas]

i had set it up with the lightest spring (gold ish shorter spring that came on my mag from the factory, i think that is the lightest, maybe i am mistaken)......

....the last scenario i went to the paint was bad from the temps so everyone was having issues so i swapped to the hardest spring (i had gone there with the med red spring in but swapped to the gray long), ....
-mattThe gold spring is the hardest spring on paint. The red is the middle spring and the gray spring is the lightest on paint.

Check your detents. A strong hopper could push the paint past the detents if the detents are weak. This would be more evident if you were rapid firing because the hopper motor and ball stack would have more built up momentum. This could be further enhanced by really small paint in a large bore barrel.

[SR_matt]

idk if the detents are an issue, i have the killa detent so it should be pretty good, maybe it needs dual detents idk. i just dont play enough right now to really be able to trouble shoot this well right now, garrrrrrrr not cool. i think i am going to shorten the pin, re set the trigger stop and then maybe swap to the middle spring and just be ready to swap up if the paint is brittle. the paint was sooooooo bad at the scenario game that i couldnt get an idea how everything was, hope the field has so good winter paint for the santa v grinch charity game in dec

-matt

[SR_matt]

ok so i only had like 900 psi in my 45/45 but i cleaned up the mag and shortened the pin, only got like 10 shots but it felt a lot better. i shortened it 1.25 turns (did 2 at first and it was to short). the pull is longer than i would like but w/o an adjustable tank up in the 1200 psi range i dont think i can really get it with a full mech

thanks everyone
-matt