RT not RT-ing

[Crzypntbllr]

Hello AO
i recently bought a lightly used RT pro. :bounce: the problem is that the marker will not response trigger. :cry: there are no leaks and i've thoroughly cleaned the gun, if you have any idea what could be wrong with my gun please let me know.

[xero28]

What is the output pressure of your tank? To get a really good RT, you usually need to have an adjustable tank set to over 1000 psi, better up around 1200 psi.

Take a look here for a bunch of good info.

www.zakvetter.com

[Tym]

Xero is correct :headbang:

You need to have atleast 900 PSI to even start RTing anything more is even better.. A good starter reg is a ninja, you can add a couple shims at get the output up to 1000ish.. As far as regular regs go, that's the best you're gonna get.. In the long run I would suggest a flatline or a max-flo. Both are full adjustable without taking the regulator apart and are made for high pressures.. My max-flo puts out 1400PSI and cycles my X-valve at around 27BPS. As seen on my youtube channel :) Search "xvalve max-flo" it's the first video.



Most regs you get on tanks are MED pressure regs, 600 - 800 PSI standard.. As I said a ninja, add 2 - 3 shims gets you up at 1000ish, or I hear if you get a blown myth they put out like 2000 :)

[Crzypntbllr]

i've already zak vetters stuff, though tempting i haven't bought a ajustable reg.

but thats it the only thing i need to do is get more air pressure into the gun?

[xero28]

i've already zak vetters stuff, though tempting i haven't bought a ajustable reg.

but thats it the only thing i need to do is get more air pressure into the gun?

I suppose go through and make sure the valve is cleaned out on the inside and that there is nothing blocking the air passages.

When you say it doesn't RT, do you mean it doesn't RT at all? After you pull the trigger there is no force pushing your finger back whatsoever? You don't happen to have a ULT on/off in the valve, do you?

[maniacmechanic]

Do you have any extra on/off pins ( I see your new , so probley not ) experiment with on/off pin lengths , I just set up a Z Grip mag that RT's like crazy , actually I have to try to slow it down , as it's so hard to get a single shot

[Crzypntbllr]

I suppose go through and make sure the valve is cleaned out on the inside and that there is nothing blocking the air passages.
i have gone through and cleaned regreased and replaced a couple orings

When you say it doesn't RT, do you mean it doesn't RT at all? After you pull the trigger there is no force pushing your finger back whatsoever?
No, by not RTing i mean that it just acts like normal automag trigger and dosent bonce like an Response Trigger should :shooting:

You don't happen to have a ULT on/off in the valve, do you?
no i dont have a ULT on off but it is possible since i'm quite sure how to tell. I have "foam front" bolt if that means anything. :confused:
the guy i bought it from said it had lvl ten instaled but there are none of the extra shims, spacers, or springs.

[Tym]

If she's properly lubed and fires nice now, all you need to do is up the pressure in. If you have buddies with higher pressure regs, try them out, or you can talk to your local proshop guy, maybe when the HPA tank he fills from gets low, he can hook it up to your mag to see how fast you can get it going :) that's what zak did in that 32 BPS vid. He was hook directly to a fill station, at 2100 PSI..

If you want to RT all you need is higher pressure.. You can play with your on/off pin length, but it doesn't make as much difference as pumping a higher PSI to the marker.

If your on/off has shims in it, it's a ULT. If it feels like a regular mag, it's not a ULT :)
To find out if there is a lvl 10 (without taking it apart) just give it the pen test.. Take the barrel off, and put a pen/chopstick or whatever isn't going to scratch the inside of the body, and put it down the barrel threads till it's touching the bolt, hold the pen firm and pull the trigger, if the bolt bounces back and vents air out the back of the bolt, you have a level 10. If it pushes the pen back, and fires or locks up, you have no lvl 10. Just push the bolt back to reset it if it locks up.

The X valve comes standard with a level 10, so unless he took it out it should be in there. Just up your input pressure and you'll be happy :headbang:

[Crzypntbllr]

thank you to all who posted :cheers:

the tech at my field that i went to today said basicaly that

the gun was in as good as new condition and the reason it didn't RT was that the gun wasn't broken in yet.

I also have a lvl 10 bolt

so ya i know have a reason to go shoot my gun alot :dance:

[Butros]

Why is it that every pro shop guy says "it's not broken in yet...." What is there to break in, the o-rings?

My guy told me the same thing and all I needed was more input pressure. 1/2 case of paint no R/T, up input pressure and 20 balls later I was R/Ting....

[Ando]

Yes the orings and reason techs say that is cause they don't know any better.

I've had to go down a carrier size once i put a case of paint through my marker. I've had to do it on 2 of ???? not sure how my markers I have now. :rolleyes:

[Watcher]

My RT Pro would sweetspot and RT like crazy off of a 850psi output tank. when I installed the lvl10 I ran into problems.

The short of the long is to use the lvl7 (gold) spring in the lvl10, then lower the velocity until it won't shoot. Then up the velocity until it will shoot and give it an extra 1/8-1/4 turn. This will get it at velocity and shooting at the lowest internal pressure possible.

The lvl10 will hit harder, but shouldn't break paint. I tested the lvl7 spring with paint from an open bag of 7 month old RPS Stinger, not a chop. When fired normally, every other shot was a barrel break...


If you are shooting bad enough paint to warrent the strongest spring, you shouldn't be shooting it at all. The strongest spring is just for showing off :rolleyes:
The mid spring is good for playing in adverse conditions (high humidity), but the lvl7 spring will still work wonders.


You can also attempt to shim the stock on/off assy. There is a thread somewhere in the tech page about this.

And a shorter on/off pin will be more reactive.

The high output tank isn't the only way to get a mag fast!


Then again, slight variencies in the valves can mean one RTs while another one can't. It just depends on the character of the gun you are shooting.

[athomas]

The valves were not designed to have a response trigger. They were designed to have a reactive trigger. There is a difference and many confuse the two. That being said, many have been able to get the RT valve to be more like a response trigger by upping the input pressure and/or shortening the on-off pin. The level 10 bolt system reduces the differential pressure and counters the effects of the reactive aspect of the valve, which is why it doesn't work as well on level 10s with stiffer springs.

[Crzypntbllr]

Why is it that every pro shop guy says "it's not broken in yet...." What is there to break in, the o-rings?
Yes the orings and reason techs say that is cause they don't know any better.

he ment the on off pin, it hasn't been worn down enough to be a reactive trigger
don't hate on tech's ... espically mr. Petty. :mad:
trust me this guy knows every thing about paintball n stuff :hail:

http://www.pettypb.com/gallery.htm

[Watcher]

he ment the on off pin, it hasn't been worn down enough to be a reactive trigger
don't hate on tech's ... espically mr. Petty. :mad:
trust me this guy knows every thing about paintball n stuff :hail:

http://www.pettypb.com/gallery.htm


While it is true that a shorter (worn down) pin will make a mag seem more reactive, it isn't always necessary. It also isn't something that can be "broken in." If the pin is being worn from you shooting it, something is wrong.

That being said, it has been mentioned that you can play with different length pins to achieve different results. Usually the shorter the pin is the quicker the trigger will reset letting you get faster trigger speeds.

You can even buy shorter or longer length pins from the AGD store, though .750 is generally the most common one.

[MicroB]

I have been away a while but I am still an RT master... As stated 900-950 is the best pressure on average to get good RT. Any more than this and trigger will be prone to run away or bounce. This also depends on on/off pin length. Never modify your sear, but I always modded my on/off pin. Stock is .750 X-valves work really well at .738-.748 (.738 is near full automatic) this is very little material but makes a huge difference. Another overlooked trigger aid in speed is the trigger rod being backed out so that a "matchbook cover" of width of air can be seen between the trigger and rod. I can easily out shoot a lot of electros with just RT finley tuned. I persoanlly never really cared for the ULE trigger. I used to tune my RT's so that they fired like they were bieng sweet spotted but no ref could duplicate my rates of fire. Higher input pressures cause problems on the valve o-rings and many times cause air to leak out the rear of the vavle.

-B