Cato's mag rescue help!

[CatoRockwell]

I bought an automag with a ule body and an Xvalve. It was in pretty grimy condition when I got it, but I was able to clean her up, and the only thing it was missing was the foamie in the level 10.

However, now that I am gassing it up, we are running into a problem: Under 350 fps it will not fire.

If I turn the valve down below 350 fps, I lose the ability to fire it, the Trigger Rod has no pressure It simply goes dead.

PLEASE HELP!!!

[BiNumber3]

your carrier for your lvl 10 may be too tight, try going down a few

[Ando]

I never ran into a problem like that. Keep us updated on what you did to fix it.

If the lvl 10 thing doesn't work open up the back of your reg and see if both springs are there. I have nothing else for ya :( sorry.

[CatoRockwell]

I think you may be right, unfortunately I don't have any smaller carrier's. Where can I purchase one?

EDIT: Ok I found them on AGD's Website. My only problem is you have to buy each size individually. Which one do I buy? It's an xvalve, my other automag never had this problem so I thought the carrier would be the right size since the lvl10 comes with every xvalve.

There is nothing on the Carrier to indicate it's size... I really don't know what to do. Should I request to send it in to AGD and have them fit a new carrier?

[BiNumber3]

The carriers go by dots and line, line is 1, dot is .5

You'll want to try goin up in size tho if it is the problem, lots of lube on the carrier o-ring might serve to fix it temporarily.
Also what spring are you using? (Silver, red, goldish?)

Before buying one you will probably wanna check any other possible problems to make sure.

Do you have any other valves? with a lvl 7? if so you can switch the parts (bolt and entire powertube assembly) and see

[CatoRockwell]

I've got another xvalve with a lvl 10. should I just swap out the lvl 10 for my other lvl 10 and see if it works?

the spring it came with was a silver

[BiNumber3]

silver is the strongest spring if left uncut, which means the greatest back pressure on the bolt, and more pressure needed to fire

If you have a smaller spring, try that

[CatoRockwell]

silver is the strongest spring if left uncut, which means the greatest back pressure on the bolt, and more pressure needed to fire

If you have a smaller spring, try that

Wow. Congratulations you hit the nail on the head. I swapped out my Tac-One bolt spring that I've been using onto it. Now it's working just fine. Guess I'll need to order a spring kit from AGD :clap:

[BiNumber3]

you can clip that silver spring to length, that's why they were left so long, so users could fine tune the length

[CatoRockwell]

how much should I cut?

[Shirow]

how much should I cut?

I would guess if you make it match the spring from your other marker that works, you would be good :)

[AnthonyDStone]

That's Funny,First thing I Thought Was Spring.Don't Cut it,Stock Springs Are cheap.Just buy one.BTW Level 7 springs work too!

Tony

[TwilightG]

BTW Level 7 springs work too!


While this might work for some, using an L7 spring has been inconsistent for me.
Stick with gold or red. Plus it never hurts to have spare springs ;)

[CatoRockwell]

Now that I cut the spring I've got the FPS down to where it should be.

New problem however, now the RT is incredibly responsive, I don't use an adjustable reg. It will slip into full auto. What do I do?

[CatoRockwell]

Can anyone help me with this RT problem?

[WickedKlown2]

Can anyone help me with this RT problem?

Are you using a ULT (ULE Trigger on/off) or R/T on/off ??? check the length of your on/off pin... if it's a R/T then it should be .750 long... If it's ULT (ULE Trigger on/off) try using only 3 shims ...

Hope that Helps

WK2

[Ando]

Ult?

[Frizzle Fry]

Ult?

http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/ult.shtml


I've never had a ULT go R/T. I've had one go auto, but that was with the trigger either slack or held down depending on adjustments.

[WickedKlown2]

Ult?

ULT = ULE Trigger on/off : the ULE Trigger Pull Kit (Ultra Light Trigger/ULT for short), part of AGD’s Ultra Light Engineering product line

http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=358

WK2

[CatoRockwell]

I was using a ULT, however I put in a standard trigger kit in and it was still doing it, although not to the same extent.

[BiNumber3]

well, you might also try a different trigger frame, I've found some frames can react readily with an RT whereas some won't RT if my life depended on it.

[CatoRockwell]

thats a good point. I'm going to try my tac-one frame on it and see how that goes... if it fixes it then I know to replace it, wouldn't bother me, I got one of those crappy benchmark frames with the pull safety. I'll let you know how it works out.

[Ando]

You could also try buying a dif on/off pin. Longer one.

[CatoRockwell]

You could also try buying a dif on/off pin. Longer one.

hmm, the only thing about that that I wonder about is that I swapped out the ULT for a standard trigger kit which included changing out the on/off and although less reactive it still was.

[Ando]

So now you don't have enough reactivity or was that a typo? Your best bet is buy the longest pin they sell, slap it in and see what you get. If you don't like the re-activeness, start shaving it down till you get it where you want.

Did you mic out both on/off pins? They could very well be the "same length" even tho one is longer then the other due to your ULT on/off uses shims. Adding shims is like shaving down your pin even tho your not actually doing it. Your basically lengthening the on/off body in turn shorting your pin. Try eyeballing it if you don't have a micrometer. Use the longest one in the stock on/off and see how it goes.

[CatoRockwell]

it was less reactive with the standard, but it still would burst fire a bit. Trying to knock it down to where it should be Semi-auto

[CatoRockwell]

Ok, so far we've got it working, I just got my replacement foamies from AGD. This is a really stupid question but, how do I get the new foamies on, do I have to purchase my own adhesive, or is their like a tear off sticky?

[WickedKlown2]

Ok, so far we've got it working, I just got my replacement foamies from AGD. This is a really stupid question but, how do I get the new foamies on, do I have to purchase my own adhesive, or is their like a tear off sticky?

Clean the bolt face off really good and the get you some Lock-Tite Gel Super Glue... Apply gel super glue to one side of the foamy,,, line it up and press it in and hold for a minute... let sit for 30 minutes and then it will be ready to rock and roll again... Just don't dry fire the bolt and you shouldn't lose the foamy...

Hope that helps...

WK2

[Spider-TW]

it was less reactive with the standard, but it still would burst fire a bit. Trying to knock it down to where it should be Semi-auto

Make sure the field strip screw (rear frame screw) is snug and is pulling the valve down on the rail. Sometimes the screw needs the urethane "washer" to get the valve tight. The screw should be pulling the valve down on the rail, not bottoming in the valve. Also look at the rail for any dings that could keep the valve from sitting down on the rail. These things act like shims in the on/off.

Since you've tried different on/offs, I would look there at the rail/valve fit or at the sear for excessive wear.

[Ando]

You don't really need the foamies. I been running one of my lvl 10's without one for 6+ months now. Just to lazy/keep forgetting to install it.

[CatoRockwell]

You don't really need the foamies. I been running one of my lvl 10's without one for 6+ months now. Just to lazy/keep forgetting to install it.

:rofl:

well I already got them in from AGD, so I'm going to use them but the lvl 10 works better from my experience on not breaking with the foamie