Banjo bolt ?'s

[elgalloblanco]

Hey guys, first post. I tried to "lurkmoar" and being a "newblar ", i may have missed it. Does anybody have problems with a classic r/t banjo bolt backing out under high rates of fire, and if so what kind of fixes would you guys recommend?

[RobAGD]

The gas thru bolts never really had that issue.

There should be a very thin urethane pad on the banjo face the contacts the rail, that provides some tension on the screw to prevent that.

Make sure to snug it down with an allen key ( not gorilla tight but snug ) and you should be fine.

-R

[elgalloblanco]

I appreciate the input, but i was under the impression that the standard field-strip screw used the urethane washer. I haven't been able to find any type of washer for the banjo bolt on airgun.com or similar sites. :)

[Ando]

Is the banjo or rail messed up? Another guy on the forums is having the same problem but his rail is pretty chewed up.

[elgalloblanco]

No sir, the banjo-bolt hole is clean with no marring on the top or bottom of the rail. The grip frame(intelliframe) hole is pristine as well.As far as i can tell there is no abnormal wear were the banjo-bolt screws into the valve. It doesn't matter what kind of equal pressure i put on both the front and back screw, the banjo always backs out. It's more of a pain than anything else.

[Ando]

Well in your case you might have the wrong orings? Get with Tuna. I'm sure he can hook you up with at RT rebuild kit or hit the AGD site.

[elgalloblanco]

I don't think that's it. When i bought the RT used I got the rebuild kit and some other goodies from AGD. Installed lvl 10 and all new o-rings per instructions on this site(no problems) with no leaks until the banjo-bolt backs out enough to jack with the valves orientation on the rail. Maybe I'll try an old o-ring around the base of the banjo to see if it puts a little friction between the two.
thanks for the help anyways

[atech2]

I must admit this is a strange occurance, I haven't used my RT alot, but never experienced your issue.

This has nothing to do with your problem, but I was hoping someone could measure a RT Classic body. I need accurate measurements of the OD an ID of a RT Classice body.

[Ando]

Maybe you can make a sleeve that will keep the oring from sliding out then. Besides that, I don't know brother. It shouldn't be doing that. :confused:

[Sumthinwicked]

teflon tape ? a small drop or thread locker locktight (blue tube) says threadlocker on it breaks under hand tension .... id tryt he teflon first vibration can wiggle free bolts so reduce the vib and u should be fine....

[Ando]

ROFL...I'm a :tard:

I really need to pay more attention. I thought you Orings were pushing out, now that I re-read your post I see it's your bolt.

I would try finding a thick piece of rubber like a rubber washer. They sell them at Lowes and Home Depot. You can cut it so it fits flush between the banjo and frame. The rubber will act like a lock washer for the bolt. I think what Sumthinwicked said about the tape would work too. The threadlocker you'll have to let dry and that will take a while.

Hope that helps.

[elgalloblanco]

Ando - It's all good bro. I could have been a little more specific. My typing skills aren't all that good. I'm gonna try an o-ring and if that doesn't work I'll give the rubber washer a spin. Like I said before, thanks for the help.

Wicked - I'll give the Teflon tape a go if all else fails. Thanks for the help.

Atech2 - I measured mine with a digital caliper and got the following #'s at the back where the valve goes in.
O.D. - 1.1135 in.
I.D. - 1.013 in.

[Sumthinwicked]

np

[atech2]

Exactly what I needed, elgalloblanco.

Thanks a ton. :hail: