View Full Version : ball bearing in the dump chamber
skyless
12-08-2009, 10:31 PM
I have read a few things about how to make a classic valve more efficient. I have thought about getting it on a lath and removing the weld holding the powertube on but i dont want to ruin my valve trying that. So the next would be to put something in the valve to make the dump chamber smaller, I read that you can put ball bearing in there to do it. Do i just put them in the little hole that i can see when my on/off is removed? Or do they goin in throught he power tube front? I dont want them to be falling out at random either. Anyone fill me in on this technique?
mostpeople
12-08-2009, 11:04 PM
No
flyingpootang
12-08-2009, 11:15 PM
Using a devoulmizer in the dump chamber is the way to go. Are you trying to make it more efficient on 12gs?
skyless
12-08-2009, 11:20 PM
Using a devoulmizer in the dump chamber is the way to go. Are you trying to make it more efficient on 12gs?
Yep that is the plan.
athomas
12-09-2009, 07:50 AM
A ball bearing in the front air chamber could become a projectile. It probably wouldn't come out past the bolt stem, but it could cause operational issues if it gets in the powertube.
I would use a ring of some sort if I were making the volume smaller. Make it to fit inside the chamber and put it in through the front once you have the powertube removed.
just get a pre welded one, and unscrew it. It takes a little muscle, but is doable.
El Camino
12-09-2009, 10:46 AM
just get a pre welded one, and unscrew it. It takes a little muscle, but is doable.
Then what would you put in it if you have one that unscrews?
flyingpootang
12-09-2009, 10:52 AM
Then what would you put in it if you have one that unscrews?
A stack of brass or stainless washers would work. Any other metal may create corrosion/rust
A stack of brass or stainless washers would work. Any other metal may create corrosion/rust
Yep. What ^ said.
Smoothice
12-09-2009, 12:28 PM
How do you tell if you have a "pre welded" valve?
skyless
12-09-2009, 01:12 PM
just get a pre welded one, and unscrew it. It takes a little muscle, but is doable.
I've been looking for one without luck. I saw a hypervalve pass through which I believe has a reduced chamber already, but no lvl 5 or 6 yet.
Any chance you have any Mann, when u use the word "just" , makes them sound easy to come by.
DevilMan
12-09-2009, 01:27 PM
I've got one... :ninja:
But it's in Cali and I'm not...
DM
I've been looking for one without luck. I saw a hypervalve pass through which I believe has a reduced chamber already, but no lvl 5 or 6 yet.
Any chance you have any Mann, when u use the word "just" , makes them sound easy to come by.
I use to have a few, but sold them. I am not sure on how common they are. All xvalves unscrew.
How do you tell if you have a "pre welded" valve?
You can see if the edge is welded or not. That is the only way I know of.
ajnin
12-19-2009, 03:01 AM
i have three 6.5 valves.... one day i will get some washers and do some tests...
skx762
12-19-2009, 06:28 AM
Could somebdy post a picture with the area circled or an arrow pointing to where I shoud be looking?
I have two older mag valves and can't see any welding on either one. Since they are only couple hundred apart in seriai number I either have two unwelded ones or am not looking in the right spot.
flyingpootang
12-19-2009, 02:32 PM
In the first pic shows the area you should be looking at. Us a magnified glass and look in between the 2 halves. If yours is laser welded you will see a constant silver valley in between the 2 halves
Here is a pic of my AIR 68 valve #CF07798. It was only soldered or welded about 1/4" around the power tube which I cut out with a hack saw very carefully, then heated up with a torch on low heat to break the Loctite. I'm going to use 5-6 3/8" nylon fender washers for the devolumizer. Hopefully I will be able to use 12g and compressed air on my Luke's RNC PumpMag
http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/ff333/flyingpootang/StillCap0012.jpg
http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/ff333/flyingpootang/StillCap0014.jpg
http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/ff333/flyingpootang/StillCap0013.jpg
http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/ff333/flyingpootang/StillCap0010.jpg
Spider-TW
12-20-2009, 06:15 PM
In the first pic shows the area you should be looking at. Us a magnified glass and look in between the 2 halves. If yours is laser welded you will see a constant silver valley in between the 2 halves
Here is a pic of my AIR 68 valve #CF07798. It was only soldered or welded about 1/4" around the power tube which I cut out with a hack saw very carefully, then heated up with a torch on low heat to break the Loctite. I'm going to use 5-6 3/8" nylon fender washers for the devolumizer. Hopefully I will be able to use 12g and compressed air on my Luke's RNC PumpMag
With a ULT yet! Nice setup.
I bet that sofa sized valve in the third picture is heavy! ;)
Frizzle Fry
12-20-2009, 06:19 PM
I bet that sofa sized valve in the third picture is heavy! ;)
It's loveseat sized; the middle model. Cuts off a few dozen pounds of stainless steel. Truly "ULE".
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