Valve leaking hard down the barrel

[mpsd]

I was tuning my electronic frame onto my Israeli Mag but, don't know why, it's valve is leaking really hard down the barrel.

I thought it could be the Level 10 but I've installed the .5 carrier (second smallest) and it got even worse than with the 1.5 it had installed originally. I have the RT on/off and a brand new bolt spring (the regular one). I also changed all the o-rings.

The only thing that comes to my mind is that, during ano, Gruntbull disassembled the power tube from the front part of the valve. It was threaded and had a very thin red o-ring, which I installed back as it looked like new but I didn't apply any loctite, as I don't have any so I just threaded it back with maximum hand strenght.

Can anyone give me a hint?

Thanks,

Mendel.

[SSP REAPER]

Contact Tuna for a new red powertube o-ring and get yourself some RED locktite as well. Without either of these, you will have air leak by. :cheers:

[FA22RaptorF22]

Contact Tuna for a new red powertube o-ring and get yourself some RED locktite as well. Without either of these, you will have air leak by. :cheers:

Red is for "permanent" applications.

Wouldn't you recommend blue?

[BigEvil]

Red

[PaintballEngineer]

They make purple spesificly for penumatics:). Never used it myself though...

[FA22RaptorF22]

Contact Tuna for a new red powertube o-ring and get yourself some RED locktite as well. Without either of these, you will have air leak by. :cheers:

You have a point here, but loctite is a thread locker, not sealer. It shouldn't be used to keep air from getting out. That is what the o-ring is for.

If you want extra sealing capacity, teflon is best for that imo.

[athomas]

The purple loctite is a high pressure thread sealer. The red will seal some but is more used for locking to keep the powertube from coming loose. It is needed. The seal in this case was the red oring which was required to be replaced once the powertube was removed the first time. Once that oring is replaced the leak will go away.

[mpsd]

Got the power tube valve replaced and applyed some blue Loctite that Tuna sent me. Still no progress. Valve keeps leaking absurdelly hard down the barrel:

http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x299/mpsd18/?action=view&current=MOV00105.flv

Do you guys happen to have any idea of what might be wrong?

Thanks,

Mendel.

[Coralis]

does the leak go away if you pull the trigger and hold it ? ack i see it is an e frame do you have mech frame to test with ?

[stonersr26]

Definitely test with a mech frame if you can. One thing to check would be that your pancake noid isn't too close to the sear causing it to always be open a slight amount.

[mpsd]

I've put the valve into another mech mag, same thing. Changed the on/off for another RT one, same thing. Replaced the reg o-rings and it still leaks... I'm really lost here.

Should I try installing a Level 7 bolt to see what happens?

Thanks, Mendel.

[Loguzzzzzz]

You have a point here, but loctite is a thread locker, not sealer. It shouldn't be used to keep air from getting out. That is what the o-ring is for.

If you want extra sealing capacity, teflon is best for that imo.
Teflon is a lubricant not a sealant. :rolleyes:

Loctite will seal thread too, as along it goes all the way around the area to be sealed.

[Frizzle Fry]

Teflon is a lubricant not a sealant. :rolleyes:

He probably means PTFE tape or "thread seal tape". Some people call it "teflon tape" but it's actually made of some long collection of syllables beginning with P T F and E and ending in "thylene"... It seals, but it doesn't lock. It actually can make it easier for NPT threaded pieces to be removed (because of the tapering of threading) so it does the opposite of lock. The "yellow" band kind is best for non corrosive gases.

It's great stuff, but it's important to trim properly because bits of it can gum things up in ways that purple loctite wont.

[mpsd]

I didn't use teflon nor purple Loctite. I just replaced the o-ring for a new one and apllyed some blue, thread-locker, Loctite.

[Loguzzzzzz]

He probably means PTFE tape or "thread seal tape". Some people call it "teflon tape" but it's actually made of some long collection of syllables beginning with P T F and E and ending in "thylene"... It seals, but it doesn't lock. It actually can make it easier for NPT threaded pieces to be removed (because of the tapering of threading) so it does the opposite of lock. The "yellow" band kind is best for non corrosive gases.

It's great stuff, but it's important to trim properly because bits of it can gum things up in ways that purple loctite wont.
It is still not really a sealant. The NPT threads are tappered and will seal without any additives. The threads can sometimes bind during assembly. The Teflon Tape is there to help lubricate the thread for deeper thread engagement.

The thread lubricants help where the threads are not good quality threads. If the threads are pitted or torn in any way then the teflon will help in sealing but that is not whe it is intended to do.

I have been in the piping industry for 30 years, I have cut many a pipe thread, back in the old days "Pipe Dope" consisted of linseed oil (as a lubricant) and cement (as a sealant). It is very hard to get an old pipe joint assembled with that stuff apart.

[Ando]

does the leak go away if you pull the trigger and hold it ?
Does it still leak?

[mpsd]

A lot! And I'm lost here...

[Ando]

Hate to say it but you might have pinched the PT packing :(

Edit: To be on the safe side. I would tear the whole valve down and rebuild it packing by packing. Make 100% sure everything is where it needs to be. If you're completely sure then you'll need to removed the PT again and see what happened.

Not sure if Loctite is volatile to packings. I've never had a problem with it at work so I would say no.

[Coralis]

I've put the valve into another mech mag, same thing. Changed the on/off for another RT one, same thing. Replaced the reg o-rings and it still leaks... I'm really lost here.

Should I try installing a Level 7 bolt to see what happens?

Thanks, Mendel.


If you have the parts go ahead and try it .

[athomas]

Put your finger against the front of the bolt and hold it back. Does the leak stop or change?

With the valve out of the gun can you blow air through the on-off hole and have it come out the front with the bolt in place. This is a good way to check things out with the valve up close.

[secretweaponevan]

Might sound so obvious that it could be overlooked, but is your bolt stem on your level 10 bolt broken?

Have you tried swapping it out for a level 7 bolt? (and replaced the powertube guts w/ level 7 guts?)

[Frizzle Fry]

It is very hard to get an old pipe joint assembled with that stuff apart.

Too true.

[Ando]

Put your finger against the front of the bolt and hold it back. Does the leak stop or change?

The man's got a good point. See if you can manually reset it by pushing on the bolt. Pull all your shims out 2.

If your able to stop the leak by resting it. You might just have a worn spring, 2 tight of a carrier or 2 many shims.

[SSP REAPER]

As other have said before, I would try and re-tune the lvl x. If your still having the leak we can always diagnose it from there. When you put the powertube back on, did you use red locktite as AGD suggests for proper installment? If you got any of the locktite on the o-ring, it can cause deterioration of the ring and cause air to leak by. Check your lvl x first and then we will continue if you still have the leak.

[Advanced]

What condition is your bolt and sear in?