HALO and Warp Feed (tube)

[raehl]

Ok, so I have a Ricochet. I also now have my new HALO. The Ricochet the previous owner had dented to allow the WF feed tube to sink into it and bring the Richo closer to the marker. Right now, it is REALLY getting in the way of the HALO. Since the HALO is a different type of plastic, has anyone else come up with any solutions for getting the halo and feed tube to occupy the same space? (Like, for example, cutting a hoel in the thing, bending the plastic in... all those other VL/Rico tricks?)

Just want to know what works before I mess up a $120 hopper. ;)

Thanks,
Chris

[AGD]

No one we know has tried it yet, guess you get to be the first!!

AGD

[raehl]

Are you going to kick in the $120 when I mess it up for the information learned in the process? ;) Note I say when, not if....


I'm thinking maybe I get one of those mini welding torches and cut out holes and run the tube through.. I think the battery pack may get in the way of that though.

- Chris

[BTAutoMag]

i wouldnt even try. if i had a HALO i would stick it on my mantle.

[cphilip]

Ohhhhh man...nothing like the "anal pucker factor" of being the first. :eek:

I realy do not know. Haven't seen one up close. I do know when drilling a Revy that drilling with a one inch hole saw is the only way to go. Nothing else works as neat and clean.

I tell ya what, send it to me and I will drill the thing for you! And document the procedure. Hows that sound? ;)

[Muzikman]

Give me until Thursday, I will let you know how it goes once I get mine. It should be here Wednesday. I ahve no problems breaking a loader....$135 or not:)

[The HALO guy]

raehl, send me an email at [email protected]
include some numbers you can be reach at and we will find the answner to your question.
Chris

[kilaueakid]

I cut the inner portion of the Halo feed neck so it can slide down and over my centerfeed sfl breech. You can just try sanding the sides so it fits into the hole better, or even trim it up so it sits lower into the warpfeed. I will warn you though...it is tough plastic and you will be sanding for awile if doing it by hand.

kila

[the123]

he wouldn't be the ONLY person with this problem. I too have an e-mag with warp/halo.
Please share any information here on this thread.
Brian

[kilaueakid]

Oh...I re-read the post...I gotcha now...you want the hose mod done. Can't say that I have done that...I am awaiting the warp breach so that I can see where to place the hole.

Sorry bout the confusion...

kila

[Muzikman]

The poblem is the not the feed neck size. It is the warp hose getting in the way of the Halo. In the VL loaders, people either heat up the loader and mold it around the warp feed hose or they cut two holes in the loader and run the feed hose through it.



Originally posted by kilaueakid
I cut the inner portion of the Halo feed neck so it can slide down and over my centerfeed sfl breech. You can just try sanding the sides so it fits into the hole better, or even trim it up so it sits lower into the warpfeed. I will warn you though...it is tough plastic and you will be sanding for awile if doing it by hand.

kila

[cphilip]

Hey the Halo guys are workin with Crhis on it now. I can't wait to see how they solve this. Its what has made me hesitate to buy one. Well...that and the lack o bucks! :D

[raehl]

Well, I emailed them. A whole hour and still no response! ;) (j/k)

One thought I have is to take one of those mini welding torches and cut a hole. I don't have access to any power tools (or a bench with grip to hold the hopper) so boring out a hole is probably out for me. Another concern I have is that the 6 AA's sit in the front of the hopper and probably extend a half inch or so on either side of the centerline - so whatever is done has to be sure to miss those. (On the other hand, if I figurred out why my E-Mag battery wasn't supplying the power I needed, I could just run that in there...)


Another thought I'd been tossing around my head would be to reverse mount the tank and bring the warp feed farther back behind and more under the marker and bring the hopper farther back with it. This would probably involve lopping the front off the hopper.

And *REALLY* far fetched would be to cut the top off the halo, put a big can on top of it, stick it on a warp feed in a backpack, and run a hose up to another warp feed on the marker. You know, sort of a remote for paint. No reloading!

- Chris

[cphilip]

Dang...I wish I could visualize the thing. All we gotta find is a path that would not give a sharp bend and end up near the two holes. Believe me the drill and hole saw is the only way to go if the spot is located. I bought the hole saw and mandrel together for like $6 at Home Depot. Surely a drill could be located. Holding it down on a soft mat is good enough once you have marked the holes. And extra pair of hands is nice here. Marking the locations is a matter of mocking it all together and using small pieces of extra hose to make short runs and marking with a sharpie around where they fall on the hopper. And then checking the path inside for anything to obstruct the path in there. But I got no idea what it looks like in there or where the stuff is without one to see.

[GallagherAtWar]

what are u talking about im about toget warp what is this about denting the loader?

[raehl]

You can bring your hopper in closer to the gun if you run the feed hose up "through" the side of hte hopper. You can either dent the plastic in or cut a hole in it to accomplish this. Not terribly critical with the VL or Richochet, but the HALo has a very stubby front and hard plastic which makes it a little more imparative you do something to get the hose running "through" the hopper. The plastic is harder though so the melting trick doesn't work.

- Chris

[The HALO guy]

Does this help?

[cphilip]

Halo guy, I have no idea what you were trying to show us. What Chris and the rest of us want to know is can it be drilled up front on the right side of the hopper and is there a space that will clear all the "works" that will bring that bottom tube "through" the Halo into the bottom of the Power Feed tube so the whole system will be tight and the hopper will be held onto the whole system with the tube. This MUST be done without a sharp bend but sbtle ones are OK. This makes everything stay all together, tucks the warp in closer to the Marker and eliminates hits directly on the tube. If this is done there is less than 2 inches of warp tube outside the set up. This is the preferable set up for Mag with Warp and we hope Halo. If you can do this it will sell more Mag owners and heck ALL Warp owners on the Halo to feed it.

[BlueMagRT]

well this might help coupled with the pic posted above. i had to very slightly dent the top of my revy to accomodate the elbow but you might not have to dent the halo at all with a setup similar to this:
http://www.ameritech.net/users/birds5/DCP06359.JPG

the big dent you see in the side is from an attempt to run the hose straight up the side of the hopper and is not needed.

[cphilip]

We do not want to use the 90 degree elbow like you did. We want to eliminate it if we can. Straight into the Warp feed direct if possible. Thats the best way. That would be sweat...

[raehl]

Better elbow than nothing, because as it stands, the HALO is oriented turned practically 45 degress out from the marker... which is unacceptable.

I'll try and get some pictures soon.

- Chris

[cphilip]

Originally posted by raehl
Better elbow than nothing...
- Chris

Yes. Understood... but hey! Lets go for it all huh? :D

[ben_JD]

Originally posted by cphilip
That would be sweat... Gross.

[cphilip]

Oh boy do I miss spell check...well...not that it would have helped there would it? SWEET! sorry...:rolleyes:

[Temo Vryce]

I guess the big question is can the hose but put through the hopper entirely or will you have to have to partially exposed, like the denting process but with a hole instead of a dent. It really all depends on how much stuff is in the bottom of the halo. What about bending the hoses as it travels through the Ball area kind like ---> ) so that it would enter in the top in the ball and an leave that area just above the stuff on the bottom.

I don't have a Halo so I'm just thinking of stuff from the pictures I have seen of it. If I'm completely whacked just say so, but if my idea works please give me a little credit. :)

[Temo Vryce]

Here's a pic of what I was suggesting. The pink line being the warp hose. I hope the pic comes out ok.

[raehl]

One option would be to just ixnay the battery compartment entirely and run the halo off of the warp feed, or relocate the batteries.... there's nothing that says the batteries *HAVE* to be below and in front since the holster comes out. Could duct tape them to the inside side of the WF for that matter.

- Chris

[BTAutoMag]

i just thought what if AGD made a hopper like the halo(with permission of course) that was made specifically for the warp feed. then a spot where the hose can be placed through can come stock and then we could make it more compact.

[the123]

there was talk of having Halo shells pre-dented long ago. Obviously nothing became of it. Denting or melting the hopper is the preferred method, when you drill it, you now run the risk of water or dirt getting inside your Halo. I'm not too fond of losing capacity of the Halo, but to have it fit better, would be nice.

[BTAutoMag]

i say dont dent it but make it taller and thinner and call them warp HALOs because if your hopper is sitting on the side of your gun then it doesnt matter how tall it is.

[cphilip]

Originally posted by the123
I'm not too fond of losing capacity of the Halo

You wont lose a darn thing. Its replaced by the fact that the tube going through there is full of balls and offset by the warp's capacity as well. Drilling and passing through has more pluses than minuses. Any water in side your Halo in that area will not cause you any problems like the water in the battery areas of your Warp and Halo by any means. That hole is the least of your worries if its raining.

[raehl]

One of the things I like about the WF is I can come over the top of a bunker to shoot without the hopper coming up first and coming down after. Also, when shooting the left side, you have to hold the gun at a 90 degree angle to keep the hopper inside your cover. If the hopper gets higher than your marker, then it's starting to get visible when it wouldn't otherwise be.

- Chris

[cphilip]

Yes! the lower and tighter the better...um...hopper on warps that is.:D

[raehl]

Ever post a question and then feel really stupid afterwards? This would be one of those cases.

So I put the halo on the warp feed again and...

I can't figure out what I was thinking about before. What I *THINK* was happening is I was not pushing the halo all the way into the WF (since I hadn't loosed the WF screws to allow the extra large neck to fit in where the rico was) and now that the halo is a half inch lower, it's JUST low enough to allow the feed tube from the WF to the marker to bend around it. Here are the pics:

- Chris

[raehl]

IS there a way to attach more than one at once?

[raehl]

Oh yeah, and ignore my hairy toes up there.

[raehl]

The tube *IS* still pushing the halo out to the left a bit, so it would still be nice if there were a way to bend in the plastic where the tube is currently being forced to bend around so that the tube could be straight and there wasn't stress between the tube and the halo.

You can see in the first pic how if the halo is a half inch higher the tube doesn't have the space to bend around the halo (since it'd be coming straight out of the connecter into the halo), which was causing the problem I was having before. Now with it a half inch lower from having the neck IN the warp feed, the tube has space to bend.

- Chris

[cphilip]

Yep!!! Know how it feels Chris...Unfortunately. Good picts I see now how they fit now. Looks closer than I would have thought.

ps: Need to get that bruise one the left foot looked at...and a good Pedicure would be nice! :D

[raehl]

That "bruise" is actually the remnants of a bugbite I got about 8 months ago.

The tube is still pushing the HALO out a bit, so I'd like to get maybe a half centimeter deep "dent" in the side where the tube it to provide a little more room. The "stubbyness" of the halo definitely helps though, were it more like the VL with that full volume up on the top-right you couldn't get the tube around it like that.

- Chris

[cphilip]

Yes... I can see now that the HAlO is not a good candidate for "Drilling" and denting is more practacle for that small amount. Good to know.

Bug bite huh? Dang! Sounds like a Spider or something.

[raehl]

Since the HALO plastic is so hard, I'm thinking any heated denting attempts will merely result in melted plastic. I'm thinking maybe I file out a bit of a hole and then reseal it with some combination of paper and duct tape or something. Actually, maybe laminated paper and hot glue.... Hrm....

- Chris

[cphilip]

Originally posted by raehl
...maybe laminated paper and hot glue.... Hrm....

- Chris

You are scaring me now...

[ben_JD]

Has anything come of this process yet? I am now getting antsy trying to figure this one out.

[raehl]

I managed to get it to work just fine with the wap feed mounted to the left of the tank angled "in" a bit (so front end is closer to the plane of the marker than the back end) and the halo mounted parallel to the marker. Tube clears the HALO battery compartment and gets up to the feed no problem.

I do, however, have a warp feed body - if you ahve a vert feed you're using an elbow with I'm not sure if that setup still works or not.

- Chris

[ben_JD]

I'm trying to envision using this set-up with a warp-feed breech module (e.g. from the Extreme). That would actually require a bigger bend then the warp/power feed that you are using. I think that someone will have to get violent with a Halo hopper in the very near future.